Picture framing advice sought
Dave E
you can apply that on the 27th (or is it the 28th??).
Anyhow... I'm considering doing my own framing, partly for the $$ savings,
but importantly to have control over the process and perhaps a bit for the
challenge, though I'm sure that will soon die. I'm something of a
perfectionist and will be doing many of these things, hopefully roughly to
my silly and exacting standards and often quite large, > 150cm edges at
times.
Not knowing about these things, my research tells me that pros use
guillotines but you can get OK results from the old mitre system. Also I'm
brutal with framers who overcut the mats and really want to get these
absolutely perfect, though my skills are usually somewhere below my own
expectations/standards...
Costwise, I'm expecting to fork out whatever is needed to get it right, even
if that is a few grand but really that's only a handful of frames done by a
pro. Professional results are expected here and so I'm expecting a dollar
and time cost. Here are a few questions:
- what tools or package toolkits would be on the recommended list from your
experience?
- what tools and framing suppliers are also recommended, with the needle
trending towards the Sydney region?
- is it silly of me to expect to do this myself (I am a bit of a handyman...
*beating chest*) and not be driven crazy after the first 1/2 dozen?
- can you send spare cash to my account - xxxx-xxxx-xxxxxx, xxx-xxx to help
pay for it all?
OK, the last one was a bit silly but if anyone has some tips I would be most
grateful.
Many regards,
David E (Sydney)
Michael
> Hi all and HNY to you. For those of you who are of Chinese descent, then
> you can apply that on the 27th (or is it the 28th??).
>
> Anyhow... I'm considering doing my own framing, partly for the $$ savings,
> but importantly to have control over the process and perhaps a bit for the
> challenge, though I'm sure that will soon die. I'm something of a
> perfectionist and will be doing many of these things, hopefully roughly to
> my silly and exacting standards and often quite large, > 150cm edges at
> times.
>
> Not knowing about these things, my research tells me that pros use
> guillotines but you can get OK results from the old mitre system. Also I'm
> brutal with framers who overcut the mats and really want to get these
> absolutely perfect, though my skills are usually somewhere below my own
> expectations/standards...
Hi dave, I've done a fair bit of my own framing and have got good result
using a typical dropsaw with a 16 tooth blade.
joints are made using a biscuit cutter that way there is no visible
metal pins on the back of the frame, which is something commonly used.
cheers
nb
results OK.
Have you considered a short course on framing at an adult education centre?
nb
"Michael" <thisis@dud_email.com> wrote in message
news:43ba564f$1...@duster.adelaide.on.net...
Poxy
> I would have thought a 16 tooth blade was a bit rough but if you get
> good results OK.
Maybe it's a 6" blade.
Rob
I have an 80 tooth blade in a 10" drop saw for this type of thing - that
works.
The method used to joint the frames is a V nail which is pressed into
the rear of the frame. This is much easier that a biscuit join.
Larson Juhl were the wholesale framing material people who will cut
framing material - think out Wentworthville way now. All you have to do
is join then up.
Michael
> I would have thought a 16 tooth blade was a bit rough but if you get good
> results OK.
>
> Have you considered a short course on framing at an adult education centre?
>
> nb
you are right 16 is way to rough I have been lazy and not
bothered to change it.
for a 10" blade you really want something around 60-80
18 months back I did prevoc wood trades at tafe :)
Michael
> I would have thought a 16 tooth blade was a bit rough but if you get good
> results OK.
>
> Have you considered a short course on framing at an adult education centre?
>
> nb
>
keep the moulded face of the timber up and you'll only get
split fibers on the bottom which is easily cleaned up and
also on the rear of the frame where is isn't seen.
like i said before a fine blade really should be used.
Dave E
Many thanks to those of you who responded to my request. I've always
thought that a few simple tools could do the job but given that I could be
making dozens of the damned things, wondered just how useful a purpose kit
would be, such as the following:
http://www.clubframeco.com/startup_kits.html#prokit. Big dollars I know but
if it saves me 30 mins/frame and the odd remake because I've stuffed things,
then over time this will be worth it to me.
Anyway, thanks again and if I do end up buying anything I'll stick a note up
for the group on how things go.
Cheers,
Dave E (Sydney)