keeping maps nice :)
Andrew
in the Mt. Howitt area, by the end of the four day walk the maps had taken a
bit of a battering. I wouldn't even want to know what would have happened to
them if we needed to read them in wet weather.
Anyway a friend told me to get them laminated but I would have thought this
would make the maps bulky and unfoldable. So I was wondering what everyone
else does?
Webguy
Well, for canyoning, I scan the map in question, print it on A4,
either laminate it and roll it, or just stick it in a plastic bag etc.
either way, they are both write offs by the end of the day, so I just
throw em away.
Bob Chambers
to one side only.
Cut the contact to length before peeling the backing paper, then peel
off only about 12 mm along one edge, fold the backing paper back and
then on a flat surface, (table) apply to one corner and align the full
sheet before pressing the remaining narrow strip of contact along the
map. Then get a long ruler and push the film onto the map, pushing the
backing paper ahead. with practice almost no bubbles.
--
Regards
Bob Chambers
Bob Chambers
to one side only.
Cut the contact to length before peeling the backing paper, then peel
off only about 12 mm along one edge, fold the backing paper back and
then on a flat surface, (table) apply to one corner and align the full
sheet before pressing the remaining narrow strip of contact along the
map. Then get a long ruler and push the film onto the map, pushing the
backing paper ahead. with practice almost no bubbles.
--
Regards
Bob Chambers
David Killick
I've tried a couple of methods - there's a commercial product called Mapseal
(from outdoor stores) which you paint on and it gives the maps a nice
plasticy finish, but in my experience it isn't always that good at keeping
maps nice even if you're super careful and treat boths sides thoroughly.
But about 15 years ago I covered some maps with a single layer of clear
contact plastic. I still have all of these maps and surprisingly they're all
still in pretty good condition. Of course if you keep your maps inside a
reasonable map case they're going to last a lot longer than if you don't.
Hope this is of some help.
cheers,
David.
"Webguy" <web...@diveoz.com.au> wrote in message
news:qkrqdtgmut5nmkc84...@4ax.com...
PCA
Bob Chambers <b...@chase.apana.org.au> wrote in message
news:3ADD7160...@chase.apana.org.au...
> Buy schoolbook contact adhesive backed clear film and apply (carefully)
> to one side only.
>
also difficult. Had much more success with very lightweight lamination which
some places like Map World in Crows Nest Sydney do. The cost is about the
same as the map, but they last for years including the occassional
underwater dip in canyons.
David Killick
I've tried a couple of methods - there's a commercial product called Mapseal
(from outdoor stores) which you paint on and it gives the maps a nice
plasticy finish, but in my experience it isn't always that good at keeping
maps nice even if you're super careful and treat boths sides thoroughly.
But about 15 years ago I covered some maps with a single layer of clear
contact plastic. I still have all of these maps and surprisingly they're all
still in pretty good condition. Of course if you keep your maps inside a
reasonable map case they're going to last a lot longer than if you don't.
Hope this is of some help.
cheers,
David.
"Webguy" <web...@diveoz.com.au> wrote in message
news:qkrqdtgmut5nmkc84...@4ax.com...
PCA
> to one side only.
>
K.A. Moylan
> Hi, Ive just recently started bushwalking ...
> by the end of the four day walk the maps had taken a
> bit of a battering. I wouldn't even want to know what would have happened to
> them if we needed to read them in wet weather.
>
> Anyway a friend told me to get them laminated but I would have thought this
> would make the maps bulky and unfoldable. So I was wondering what everyone
> else does?
I put clear "contact" onto my maps. Single sided (on the printed side)
is often good enough, but double sided makes them untearable. It is also
quick & easy to apply.
I used to use mapseal (if that's the right name), a solution that is
painted onto the map. It dries into a showerproof seal. If it gets
soaked through, the coating can re-liquefy and become sticky again.
Obviously when one's map is folded over when this happens, one's maps
stays folded over or gets torn.
HTH,
--
K.A. Moylan
Canberra, Australia k.mo...@student.canberra.edu.au
Ski Club http://cccsc.asn.au
--------------------------------------------------------
mack
> Anyway a friend told me to get them laminated but I would have thought this
> would make the maps bulky and unfoldable. So I was wondering what everyone
> else does?
I only look at my map when it's inside a plastic case (I have a zippered
floppy one - I got mine years ago, I think it's for storing clothes for
the winter etc with moth balls). This stops abrasion in the pack and stops
the map from getting wet in the rain.
With the new 1:25,000 maps you have to refold them all the time. The
1:63,360 maps, you did well to walk off them in a day. So the new
maps take a beating.
I fold the maps into a W (ie alternating up and down folds
in each direction). Something I learned in scouts. It's supposed
to minimise the number of times a map gets folded when you
have to expose a new section. Refolding is the only time I
bring the map out of the plastic bag.
Joe
--
Joseph Mack, NA3T, FM05lw EME(B,D)
AZ_PROJ map server at http://www.wm7d.net/azproj.shtml
mailto:jm...@wm7d.net
David Springthorpe
<amcc...@optushome.com.au> wrote:
>Hi, Ive just recently started bushwalking and just got back from a nice walk
A bit off topic, but I notice (on my news server at least) a
proliferation of "double-postings" in this thread - is it just
me.....?
D.S.
David Springthorpe
<dkil...@bigpond.com> wrote:
>.....Of course if you keep your maps inside a
>reasonable map case they're going to last a lot longer than if you don't.
My problem is keeping the map case in good order - I must have been
very rough with my latest one (have to remember to stop throwing it on
the ground).....
D.S.
Jim (from Oz)
No, it isn't
Jim (from Oz)
Jim (from Oz)
Springthorpe) wrote:
No, it isn't
Jim (from Oz)
David Killick
I've tried a couple of methods - there's a commercial product called Mapseal
(from outdoor stores) which you paint on and it gives the maps a nice
plasticy finish, but in my experience it isn't always that good at keeping
maps nice even if you're super careful and treat boths sides thoroughly.
But about 15 years ago I covered some maps with a single layer of clear
contact plastic. I still have all of these maps and surprisingly they're all
still in pretty good condition. Of course if you keep your maps inside a
reasonable map case they're going to last a lot longer than if you don't.
Hope this is of some help.
cheers,
David.
"Webguy" <web...@diveoz.com.au> wrote in message
news:qkrqdtgmut5nmkc84...@4ax.com...
Roger Caffin
> Anyway a friend told me to get them laminated but I would have thought this
> would make the maps bulky and unfoldable. So I was wondering what everyone
> else does?
Photocopy onto "permanent paper", a plastic archival paper available
from Fuji-Xerox (I think), as either PP3 (A3 size) or PP4. This is
totally waterproof and fairly untearable. It is also as light as
ordinary paper. Note this does NOT work with inkjet printers, only
fused toner copiers.
Photocopy or scan/print onto ordinary paper, store in HEAVY A4 plastic
sleeve. By keeping the open end down, even in rain, the paper stays
reasonably dry and flat.
Contact film onto photocopies.
Photocopy onto overhead projector film (OHP) and store in a sleeve
against a thin film of white plastic (or paper) for contrast. Care
needed in hot weather as the fused toner can stick to other surfaces
(eg clear plastic sleeve!) if stored under pressure.
Actual maps themselves never leave the house.
Cheers
Roger Caffin
Mylorace
>from Fuji-Xerox (I think), as either PP3 (A3 size) or PP4. This is
>totally waterproof and fairly
>untearable. It is also as light as
>ordinary paper
Very good advice and perhaps the only ways that work .
However I do think there will be a whinge from a few here about the costs of
the paper,
If past form holds true.
Why is it that Bushwalkers (general) are so miserable where a few $$ are
concerned ?
Mylo.
John McLaine
I've got some thin laminated, some heavy laminated.
Eventually water seeps into the thin laminated ones, but only after a lot of
exposure, ie river trips.
The heavy laminated ones are virtually bombproof.
They fold up chunky. I can live with that.
I've tried map cases. Wouldn't bother again.
Cheers,
John
Les Skinner
Have tried many options over the years, but agree on the laminating.
A couple of points :
1/ Trim the map info, leaving the Eastings & Northings.
Tack these on the back for reference. The trip is to minimise map size.
2/ Use a heavy laminate, lasts much longer.
3/ When using, I tend to fold only once, then roll the map to display the
desired area. This lasts much longer by not forming cracks where there are
folds.
Surprisingly easy to get used to this, and much better in really shitty
weather. (Actually my favorite walking weather)
I find 1:50k maps are much easier to work with scale, though love the 25k
detail on some trips.
Some trips (as we are doing up above the Gammons shortly on a 1:250k map)
where we use anything from 1:50k to 1:250k scales, I have colour copied the
area(s) needed and laminated. I have found these to come up surprisingly
clear, sometimes better than originals ! Very easy to work with in A4 or A3
sizes, and you can double side your larger scales and flip them over as
required.
Regards,
Les (remove 'your hat' to reply directly, damn spam)
PS I've been absent from a regular browse of this NG for some 6 months now,
and have noticed a major increase in spam in the postings !
"John McLaine" <jmcl...@iprimus.com.au> wrote in message
news:3adf...@news.iprimus.com.au...
Alan Laird
I have also tried thin and thick laminating and prefer the thick. This is
partly because I carry the map rolled, not folded. I roll it up and slide
it into the centre of a coiled sleeping mat tied horizontally to the outside
of the pack. The map tries to unwind (especially for the thick lamination)
and that keeps it tight inside the roll.
It is also easy to extract and re-insert, and is water and wind proof.
The arrangement works fine for skiing, canyoning and most bushwalking. The
only problem I have experienced is that the edges can get roughed up by
thick undergrowth, particularly if the lamination is thin.
I usually laminate related maps back to back to cut down on lamination
weight.
Some maps are large, and I cut off those areas that I am unlikely to use for
bushwalking or skiing. This is to minimise weight and ease handling in
windy weather.
Routes or other annotations can be written in using an indelible pen.
I've been doing it for about a decade and it works well. It certainly keeps
the maps in good condition and although lamination is expensive, so are
replacement maps.
Cheers....Alan Laird
"Les Skinner" <tudor...@yourhatdove.net.au> wrote in message
news:3ae01...@news.chariot.net.au...
robin Mitchell
Roger Caffin <r.ca...@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:3ADEC490...@tpg.com.au...
> Andrew wrote:
> > Anyway a friend told me to get them laminated but I would have thought
this
> > would make the maps bulky and unfoldable. So I was wondering what
everyone
> > else does?
>
> Photocopy onto "permanent paper", a plastic archival paper available
> from Fuji-Xerox (I think), as either PP3 (A3 size) or PP4. This is
> totally waterproof and fairly untearable. It is also as light as
> ordinary paper. Note this does NOT work with inkjet printers, only
> fused toner copiers.
>
Assuming that you want living colour, you can successfully use inkjet paper
if you spray it both sides with an artists' fixer of a type used for sealing
pastel/pencil/water colour artwork and readily available in artshops. If you
really want a 'permanent job' then you can use Tetenal lichtshutz
lack-spray at circa $50 a 400ml spray can. The same quatity of artists'
fixer costs circa $11 a can and does a lot of A3 sheets. The combination I
use is an Epson Stylus Photo 1200 (which does A3) with Ilford inkjet
photopaper (a mylar based material I think). Very tough and the ink sets
well into the coating. Commonsense suggests that it would probably be
cheaper and simpler to buy a new map. By the way, my experience with
reproducing maps on cheaper laserjets is that shrinkage causes small
'errors' in the scale if you print on plastic media (caused by heat
shrinkage).
Mitch
Mitchell Isaacs
> partly because I carry the map rolled, not folded. I roll it up and slide
> it into the centre of a coiled sleeping mat tied horizontally to the
outside
> of the pack. The map tries to unwind (especially for the thick
lamination)
> and that keeps it tight inside the roll.
carried on the outside of packs get bits of them torn off in scrub, and the
bush is littered with lots of bits of blue or green - an eyesore to see
trails of these bits.
Cheers,
Mitchell
Gaza's Mail
$3.50 for photocopy and quoted $14 for a thin laminate.......bought roll of
clear contact for $1.60 instead.
Steve
details (notes) you can remove them using nail polish remover. (the stuff
with "conditioner" even helps the plastic.
Steve
Ross Odell
(and when 2 or more sheets are required, which is usually). Last summer
I had some done in the Map shop in Hobart. Cut up some maps and
laminated several pieces at once, spaced out on the sheet, then cut them
out. As John says, water does get in eventually, even with a generous
border.
Ross
Roger Caffin
> Roger Caffin wrote:
> > Photocopy onto "permanent paper", a plastic archival paper available
> > from Fuji-Xerox (I think), as either PP3 (A3 size) or PP4. This is
> > totally waterproof and fairly untearable. It is also as light as
> > ordinary paper. Note this does NOT work with inkjet printers, only
> > fused toner copiers.
> Assuming that you want living colour, you can successfully use inkjet paper
actually. :-)
> if you spray it both sides with an artists' fixer of a type used for sealing
> pastel/pencil/water colour artwork and readily available in artshops. If you
> really want a 'permanent job' then you can use Tetenal lichtshutz
> lack-spray at circa $50 a 400ml spray can. The same quatity of artists'
> fixer costs circa $11 a can and does a lot of A3 sheets.
All the same, this is very interesting, and thanks for the
contribution. I must give it a go.
> The combination I
> use is an Epson Stylus Photo 1200 (which does A3) with Ilford inkjet
> photopaper (a mylar based material I think). Very tough and the ink sets
> well into the coating.
Hum - is that paper waterproof then, with a mylar base?
> Commonsense suggests that it would probably be cheaper and simpler to
> buy a new map.
Maybe, but that is not an option in a storm on the Main Range!
> By the way, my experience with
> reproducing maps on cheaper laserjets is that shrinkage causes small
> 'errors' in the scale if you print on plastic media (caused by heat
> shrinkage).
Problem understood. The PP3 and PP4 papers do show some heat stress,
depending on the exact photocopier, but do not seem to suffer a size
change after cooling down. Well, if they move 1-2% you would never
notice, of course.
Cheers
Roger Caffin
Roger Caffin
> I hope this sleeping mat is inside a nylon (or similar) bag. Sleeping mats
> carried on the outside of packs get bits of them torn off in scrub, and the
> bush is littered with lots of bits of blue or green - an eyesore to see
> trails of these bits.
Budawangs...
Cheers
Roger Caffin
David Springthorpe
<misaacs@spam_me_not.student.usyd.edu.au> wrote:
>I hope this sleeping mat is inside a nylon (or similar) bag. Sleeping mats
>carried on the outside of packs get bits of them torn off in scrub, and the
>bush is littered with lots of bits of blue or green - an eyesore to see
>trails of these bits.
A sure sign of inexperienced / ill-advised walkers.....one solution is
invest in a short Thermarest and a storage bag (why don't they include
one of these with the purchase of a Thermarest) and store inside
pack.....
D.S.
Bob Chambers
David Springthorpe wrote:
>
> On Sat, 21 Apr 2001 02:14:15 GMT, "Mitchell Isaacs"
> <misaacs@spam_me_not.student.usyd.edu.au> wrote:
>
> >I hope this sleeping mat is inside a nylon (or similar) bag. Sleeping mats
> >carried on the outside of packs get bits of them torn off in scrub, and the
> >bush is littered with lots of bits of blue or green - an eyesore to see
> >trails of these bits.
>
> A sure sign of inexperienced / ill-advised walkers.....one solution is
> invest in a short Thermarest and a storage bag
They Don't supply a stuff sack anymore? Mines 10 years old and going
strong.
> (why don't they include
> one of these with the purchase of a Thermarest) and store inside
> pack.....
>
> D.S.
--
Regards
Bob Chambers
David Springthorpe
<b...@chase.apana.org.au> wrote:
>They Don't supply a stuff sack anymore? Mines 10 years old and going
>strong.
When did they ever ?
D.S.
Bob Chambers
can't tell you how long ago. But the mat is a 3/4 length (Ultralight?)
and definitely came with a small stuff sack in the familiar blue with a
plastic toggle and a pleat at the bottom to help you remove it when
you've forgotten to tighten the valve properly. (Over the years there
have been quite some tussles getting an expanded mat out of the bag)
By the way, I've been thinking about resurrecting my karrimat half
length (ultra long cut in half) for ultralight walking, but haven't yet
dredged up the bottle to try it again - or even no mat (memories of sore
cold hips etc.) must be one's age working against! Have you tried a
closed cell foam mat lately? (carried _inside_ of course)
--
Regards
Bob Chambers
David Springthorpe
<b...@chase.apana.org.au> wrote:
>Well Dave, they did for me.
Fair enough - but I've always had to buy one as an extra.....
D.S.
Luke Maslen
I'm a fan of using a map case as I find scanning, printing and
laminating to be too much of a hassle.
I have used various map cases over the years and most of them are bad.
The best one that I have ever used cost me $30 about 3 years ago and is
made by SealLine (USA) and is (or was) sold in the InterTrek stores in
Australia. It's expensive for a glorified piece of plastic but given
that maps are about $7 each, the price is worth it.
The main problems that I have noticed with map cases are:
1. Some have stitching and lots of rain gets in the stitch holes.
2. Some heat-seal the plastic with a brittle seal that cracks and then
allows rain to get in.
3. Some have a grid printed on the plastic. This obscures the map.
The SealLine map case that I have is very large allowing one to view
several folds of your map at once. It has heat-sealed edges to keep the
rain out but the heat-seal is supple so that it does not crack when
folded or bent. The only entry to the map case has a clip-top seal
which has kept out rain and snow under all conditions to which I have
exposed it. There is no stitching through the plastic.
Apparently there was an even better and more expensive map case on the
market but I don't know the details. It could be worth asking your
bushwalking store.
Regards,
Luke Maslen.
Andrew
I like most but at least Ive got lots of options now
E James
purchase of the sleeping mat -- but maybe some shops automatically sell them
as a pair (perhaps at a higher price).
Liz
"David Springthorpe" <david.spr...@idx.com.au> wrote in message
news:3ae54f0...@news.idx.com.au...
Jules
before packing everything into the pack, so it sits around the
contents like a cylinder. Doesn't appear to reduce pack space,
but keeps it out of the rain/scrub/snow/way.
Jules
David Springthorpe <david.spr...@idx.com.au> wrote in
message news:3ae230ae...@news.idx.com.au...
David Springthorpe
<jmcl...@iprimus.com.au> wrote:
>I can't believe anyone would carry the extra weight of an unnecessary stuff
>sac.
Well, you're responsible for your own extremist belief system - I
personally believe the small added weight and cost is justified in
protecting my much more costly Thermarest.....
>And while on the subject of lightweight mats, years ago I went to a foam
>shop and bought a sheet of 3mm EVA, from which I cut out a few 3/4 length
>sleep mats. They were the lightest I've ever seen, but not the most
>comfortable. Worked well for trips where weight was critical, and exertion
>maximal. If you're tired enough, you'll sleep on some pretty hard surfaces.
Do you drill holes in your plastic cutlery also, to save weight.....?
D.S.
Gra-gra
Ah.... our idea of heaven was 3mm of EVA.
John McLaine
David Springthorpe wrote
John McLaine wrote:
>
> >I can't believe anyone would carry the extra weight of an unnecessary
stuff
> >sac.
> Well, you're responsible for your own extremist belief system - I
> personally believe the small added weight and cost is justified in
> protecting my much more costly Thermarest.....
Fair call. It must weigh all of 5-10 grams?? And I should admit that the
drybag that my thermarest, sleeping bag and clothes go into is much heavier
anyway.
> Do you drill holes in your plastic cutlery also, to save weight.....?
That's a brainwave! Please hand me the drill.
J.
Allan Mikkelsen
<jmcl...@iprimus.com.au> wrote:
>
> David Springthorpe wrote
> > Do you drill holes in your plastic cutlery also, to save weight.....?
>
> That's a brainwave! Please hand me the drill.
My favourite tip, from a US site that I no longer have the URL, was to
cut out the labels from your tent.
Must save all of about 1 gram in a couple of kilos of tent.
Cheers, Allan
Mark(un-MASK)Forsyth
My father was a fanatic about weight. He'd cut toothbrush handles off,
he'd only ever use a single wall,floorless tent, only ever used a 3mm
3/4 length (orless) foam pad, etc.......
The last time I went walking with him we went up Bogong from Watchbed
creek up GRanny spur (I think) when we got to bogong summit I said
something along the lines of Phew I could use a beer or two now... and
the old man agreed. I walked over to HIS pack and took the two cans
out of his sleeping bag bag and passed him one. The torrent of
abuse that I got was incredible. We NEVER walked together again. He
wouldn't come away with me. ANd he wouldn't drink the beer either.
Had to drink both cans meself...
NEVER interfere with a lightweight fanatics gear !!!!!
Ooroo
Mark F...
--
Mark F...
unMASK for e-mail
David Springthorpe
<jmcl...@iprimus.com.au> wrote:
>> Do you drill holes in your plastic cutlery also, to save weight.....?
>
>That's a brainwave! Please hand me the drill.
I've known people do it to non-plastic cutlery (fair enough, its
heavier) and toothbrushes, in the past.....and I guess that's why
those Trangia (and other brand) billy lifters have big holes in
them.....
There is a character I know who DELIBERATELY leaves his tent pegs
behind (uses rocks, sticks instead), presumably to save weight.....but
then he has a 30 year old H-frame pack, a Paddy tent, and (horror)
still wears DV's.....
D.S.
David Springthorpe
<amik...@pcug.org.au> wrote:
>My favourite tip, from a US site that I no longer have the URL, was to
>cut out the labels from your tent.
>
>Must save all of about 1 gram in a couple of kilos of tent.
>
>Cheers, Allan
Make your Micro Lighter.....?
D.S.
Les
> >> Do you drill holes in your plastic cutlery also, to save weight.....?
> >
> >That's a brainwave! Please hand me the drill.
>
> I've known people do it to non-plastic cutlery (fair enough, its
> heavier) and toothbrushes, in the past.....and I guess that's why
> those Trangia (and other brand) billy lifters have big holes in
> them.....
That'd be more for cooling, but granted a bit lighter.
Les
John McLaine
Mark(un-MASK)Forsyth wrote a funny story.
>I walked over to HIS pack and took the two cans
> out of his sleeping bag bag and passed him one. The torrent of
> abuse that I got was incredible. We NEVER walked together again. He
> wouldn't come away with me. ANd he wouldn't drink the beer either.
> Had to drink both cans meself...
There's a group of 4 (self, brother, 2 friends) who only get together for a
walk about once every 2 years. Rob from Copenhagen is the main culprit,
snuck in a beer each on a trip years ago, can't remember where. The others
in the group will always try to out-do each other. Last year we got together
for a Mt. Olympus trip: Petrarch, Olympus, Echo Pt, out. I thought I'd
impress everyone by producing a cold Boags each at L. Petrarch. I was
trumped by my brother who dragged out 2 hidden six-packs after dinner. Dale
felt sheepish only bringing out half a dozen cold ones, he'd stashed in the
creek when we arrived.
Next day, hot, dry, up Olympus, lunch at Lake Oenone. Rob produced 8 big
cans of cold Guinness (with the widget), which he'd kept in chiller bags.
Don't know how he hid them in his pack. The descent to Echo Pt went faster
than usual, and the walk out was nice.
Cheers,
John
David Springthorpe
<jmcl...@iprimus.com.au> wrote:
>
>Mark(un-MASK)Forsyth wrote a funny story.
>
>>I walked over to HIS pack and took the two cans
>> out of his sleeping bag bag and passed him one. The torrent of
>> abuse that I got was incredible. We NEVER walked together again. He
>> wouldn't come away with me. ANd he wouldn't drink the beer either.
>> Had to drink both cans meself...
Why bother carting beer around the bush - it only goes warm ?.....
I prefer a nice red wine thanks.....
D.S.
Benjamin Marshan
thats totally water proof. We've stuck them under water and they havnt let
any water in, and the bigger ones fit a good amount of a map into their
windows. Not too expensive either, obviously not as cheap as contact or
laminating, but not too much more! :)
Andrew <amcc...@optushome.com.au> wrote in message
news:AadD6.48070$Xx3.2...@news1.eburwd1.vic.optushome.com.au...
> Hi, Ive just recently started bushwalking and just got back from a nice
walk
> in the Mt. Howitt area, by the end of the four day walk the maps had taken
a
> bit of a battering. I wouldn't even want to know what would have happened
to
> them if we needed to read them in wet weather.
>
> Anyway a friend told me to get them laminated but I would have thought
this
> would make the maps bulky and unfoldable. So I was wondering what everyone
> else does?
>
>
>
Marsh
> Why bother carting beer around the bush - it only goes warm ?.....
> I prefer a nice red wine thanks.....
>
> D.S.
If you're into travelling light and taking mind-altering substances like
alcohol one could suggest and number of other alternatives which, although
illegal, may satisfy these requirements. Carrying the bottles in and out or
the cask in must be a drag [pardon the pun ;)].
Mark (un-MASK) Forsyth
Over the 3 days concerned NOTHING was ever going to get warm.....
It was about this time of year...... Besides, I wasn't carrying it...:-)
Before I stashed the cans I was thinking about a bottle of nice red but
the bottle would have been a bit too long to stash in the old mans
pack without him noticing it.....
These days, when I have to carry my own grog, I prefer a nice red with
dinner and perhaps a spot of Drambui later with coffee and cake...:-)
Ooroo
Mark F...
"David Springthorpe" <david.spr...@idx.com.au> wrote in message
news:3aed326...@news.idx.com.au...