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Men's Suits

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Michael Preston

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Nov 13, 2002, 7:10:07 PM11/13/02
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Another in my series of reasearch notes. Inspired by a story that implied
that a $600 man's suit was high priced.

Men's suits.

Fox Mulder's suits are outrageously expensive.

Hugo Boss and Armani both run about $4 Grand each,
MSRP. That's getting up into "bespoke" suits on Saville Row
range.

The kind of store that carries them doesn't discount them
much, although the store will probably throw in a couple of
ties, especially if you buy several $150 shirts while you're in
the store.

For comparison, a good (Hart, Schafner and Marx) suit will
run from $600 to $800 a pop. A good quality dress shirt will
be $30-$40.

Typical "fall" (Chest Measurement to Waist Measurement) in
a standard American suit is six inches, a forty inch suit
jacket comes with a waist of 34". One way around that is to
buy athletic cut suits, although selections in Mulder's size
would be slim, as they are cut for football players. From
observation, I'd guess Mulder was about a 40 long in early
seasons, 42 long or regular in later. I expect waist size
stayed around 32. That means taking in the waist two to
four inches. A skilled can do that at the side seams with little
effect on how the suit looks.

A careless one will give you one large back pocket.

There are a couple of ways around the problem. One is
sports coat and slacks, as shown in the pilot. Another is
Hagger, which makes a line of mix and match suits. You buy
a coat that fits, then buy a pair of slacks that fit. Fabric is
decent, not to many innocent polyesters had to die to make
your suit, and construction is acceptable.

***

Wild Guess time

We've established that Mulder is dressed in an outfit worth
about $5 Grand, appropriate in cut and color for the
occasion, well turned out. What effect would it have on those
he interacts with?

Superiors.

Most of his superiors may not make this analysis, but they
will have a gut reaction to his clothes. Mostly the reaction
will be a reaction to Mulders' attitude of 'I'm better dressed,
richer and smarter than you. Why should I listen to you.'

Skinner's self worth is bound up in other things, although he
does wear tailored shirts and decent athletic cut suits.

Kersh is a pudge in ill-fitting suits, on top of the insecurities
of being a middle aged black man in a white society. That
may even be a contributing cause of his reaction to Mulder.


Peers

Flat out, most of his peers don't have the disposable income
Mulder does, not counting any inherited wealth. They make
about the same as Mulder, circa $60,000 a year, but instead
of a rathole apartment, they've got mortgages, three kids and
are scrabbling frantically to save for college. A lot of the
reaction will be pure jealousy, 'I wear Hagger, but I'm not a
flake.'

Women

I will not comment, beyond saying that when I'm in a good
fitting suit, I have a lot more self confidence and some
women seem to be more willing to be approached.


Interviewees

Reaction depends. Men's suits are not generally a major
topic of discussion in trailer parks. Middle class city folks
generally have a positive reaction. Kids, which tend to ignore
most clothes, have a good reaction.

Mike

For more detailed analysis, see John Maloy's "Dress for
Success"

pam

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Nov 22, 2002, 1:51:49 PM11/22/02
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Michael Preston wrote:
> Another in my series of reasearch notes. Inspired by a story
> that implied that a $600 man's suit was high priced.
>
> Men's suits.
>
> Fox Mulder's suits are outrageously expensive.
>
> Hugo Boss and Armani both run about $4 Grand each, MSRP.

<boggles>

> That's getting up into "bespoke" suits on Saville Row range.

Bespoke?

> Wild Guess time
>
> We've established that Mulder is dressed in an outfit worth
> about $5 Grand, appropriate in cut and color for the occasion,
> well turned out. What effect would it have on those he
> interacts with?

Thank you for this very informative post. I had no idea!

alcordia

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Jan 24, 2013, 6:38:30 AM1/24/13
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calara

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Mar 6, 2013, 12:15:16 AM3/6/13
to Michael Preston
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