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noise/vibration in front end of '93 Ford F-150 please help!
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Nate Nagel
Oct 1, 2011, 9:09:30 AM10/1/11
to
I'm running out of ideas here... I have a '93 F-150, extended cab, 2WD,
300/E4OD that I bought used with about 120K miles on it. It currently
has about 140K. When I bought it I knew that it had a few issues that
needed to be addressed, most notably tires out of balance and bad
shocks, but overall it seemed to be in good shape. To date, I have
replaced the shocks (myself,) had new tires installed (Michelin LTX AT/2
- I know they're a little aggressive for a 2WD truck, but they were on
sale when I bought them, and I drive the truck so seldom I figured that
a little NVH was not going to be objectionable, and I wanted to make
sure I could get around in winter) and also had a full brake job done on
the truck (a note from my last safety inspection said that the rear
shoes were almost at the wear limit, so I replaced everything, because
it pulled a little and the front rotors were warped) including all
hardware and hoses, and had the front wheel bearings replaced (that
needed to be done at purchase as well.) Probably not related, but I
also have replaced or had replaced all fluids in the truck as PM save
for the power steering (and if I don't set this thing on fire in
disgust, I will probably do it again at 150K miles.)
Even after the brake job, I still have some NVH from the front end.
There's a loud clicking/clacking noise coming from somewhere that is
wheel speed related; it sounds like a much louder version of a stone
being caught in a tire tread, or a stone loose inside a hubcap. It
becomes much louder when you go around a corner, and you can feel a
vibration as well - not through the wheel, but in the seat and through
the floor. After the brake job, I took the truck back to the shop that
did the work and they diagnosed the problem as a bad U-joint. I told
them to go ahead and replace all three, as I had noticed that there was
some backlash in the driveshaft but hadn't addressed it yet. If
anything the vibration was worse after that. I had the driveshaft
straightened and balanced, and the problem remained, but it was
approximately the same as it was before U-joint replacement. In
disgust, I took the truck to another shop and the guy there completely
disassembled the front brakes from the spindles out, reassembled,
claimed he didn't find anything wrong but that he felt the truck drove
much better afterwards - he was right. Unfortunately, the problem has
reappeared and I've put less than 1000 miles on it since then.
My best theory at this time is it's a combination of slight play in the
wheel bearings combined with pads not fitting tightly in the calipers.
If it matters the pads that I bought were Raybestos ceramics, part no.
ATD375C. But I'd really like to have this resolved because the noise is
embarrassing (it's loud enough that I'm sure people driving next to me
can hear it) and it worries me that I might be misdiagnosing and that
there's a serious problem that I'm ignoring/writing off to nothing
important and I don't want to have a serious failure on the road.
Any ideas...?
Completely unrelated, the battery was dead this morning which pisses me
off, as I have had both the alternator and battery replaced fairly
recently, and also when I got the truck I went through and cleaned all
of the accessable connections and grounds and slathered them with
silicone grease as PM, because I've always thought that the charging
system on this truck was kind of tenuous from the way the voltmeter
drops at idle with any accessories or lights on (it still does it by the
way, but I've been told by everyone that looks at it that it's perfectly
normal)
I'm about to drop the truck off at yet another shop to let them have a
stab at it as I no longer have a good work space of my own, but figured
I'd throw this out there to see if anyone has any ideas. (I also don't
have a very high opinion of most mechanics; it took my buying a set of
"known good" wheels and tires for my old Porsche and swapping them one
by one in my driveway before I diagnosed a NVH problem in that car that
5 different shops, including one owned by a guy with a nationally
syndicated radio and TV show, could not even detect - and yet both I and
my ex-fiance's father - the only other mechanically inclined person to
ever drive the car while I had it - both considered it blatantly
obvious. If anyone knows of a GOOD shop in the Dulles Airport area, I
would certainly like to have your recommendations.)
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
300/E4OD that I bought used with about 120K miles on it. It currently
has about 140K. When I bought it I knew that it had a few issues that
needed to be addressed, most notably tires out of balance and bad
shocks, but overall it seemed to be in good shape. To date, I have
replaced the shocks (myself,) had new tires installed (Michelin LTX AT/2
- I know they're a little aggressive for a 2WD truck, but they were on
sale when I bought them, and I drive the truck so seldom I figured that
a little NVH was not going to be objectionable, and I wanted to make
sure I could get around in winter) and also had a full brake job done on
the truck (a note from my last safety inspection said that the rear
shoes were almost at the wear limit, so I replaced everything, because
it pulled a little and the front rotors were warped) including all
hardware and hoses, and had the front wheel bearings replaced (that
needed to be done at purchase as well.) Probably not related, but I
also have replaced or had replaced all fluids in the truck as PM save
for the power steering (and if I don't set this thing on fire in
disgust, I will probably do it again at 150K miles.)
Even after the brake job, I still have some NVH from the front end.
There's a loud clicking/clacking noise coming from somewhere that is
wheel speed related; it sounds like a much louder version of a stone
being caught in a tire tread, or a stone loose inside a hubcap. It
becomes much louder when you go around a corner, and you can feel a
vibration as well - not through the wheel, but in the seat and through
the floor. After the brake job, I took the truck back to the shop that
did the work and they diagnosed the problem as a bad U-joint. I told
them to go ahead and replace all three, as I had noticed that there was
some backlash in the driveshaft but hadn't addressed it yet. If
anything the vibration was worse after that. I had the driveshaft
straightened and balanced, and the problem remained, but it was
approximately the same as it was before U-joint replacement. In
disgust, I took the truck to another shop and the guy there completely
disassembled the front brakes from the spindles out, reassembled,
claimed he didn't find anything wrong but that he felt the truck drove
much better afterwards - he was right. Unfortunately, the problem has
reappeared and I've put less than 1000 miles on it since then.
My best theory at this time is it's a combination of slight play in the
wheel bearings combined with pads not fitting tightly in the calipers.
If it matters the pads that I bought were Raybestos ceramics, part no.
ATD375C. But I'd really like to have this resolved because the noise is
embarrassing (it's loud enough that I'm sure people driving next to me
can hear it) and it worries me that I might be misdiagnosing and that
there's a serious problem that I'm ignoring/writing off to nothing
important and I don't want to have a serious failure on the road.
Any ideas...?
Completely unrelated, the battery was dead this morning which pisses me
off, as I have had both the alternator and battery replaced fairly
recently, and also when I got the truck I went through and cleaned all
of the accessable connections and grounds and slathered them with
silicone grease as PM, because I've always thought that the charging
system on this truck was kind of tenuous from the way the voltmeter
drops at idle with any accessories or lights on (it still does it by the
way, but I've been told by everyone that looks at it that it's perfectly
normal)
I'm about to drop the truck off at yet another shop to let them have a
stab at it as I no longer have a good work space of my own, but figured
I'd throw this out there to see if anyone has any ideas. (I also don't
have a very high opinion of most mechanics; it took my buying a set of
"known good" wheels and tires for my old Porsche and swapping them one
by one in my driveway before I diagnosed a NVH problem in that car that
5 different shops, including one owned by a guy with a nationally
syndicated radio and TV show, could not even detect - and yet both I and
my ex-fiance's father - the only other mechanically inclined person to
ever drive the car while I had it - both considered it blatantly
obvious. If anyone knows of a GOOD shop in the Dulles Airport area, I
would certainly like to have your recommendations.)
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
Paul in Houston TX
Oct 1, 2011, 11:40:04 AM10/1/11
to
Nate Nagel wrote:
>
> Even after the brake job, I still have some NVH from the front end.
> There's a loud clicking/clacking noise coming from somewhere that is
> wheel speed related; it sounds like a much louder version of a stone
> being caught in a tire tread, or a stone loose inside a hubcap. It
> becomes much louder when you go around a corner, and you can feel a
> vibration as well - not through the wheel, but in the seat and through
> the floor. After the brake job, I took the truck back to the shop that
>
> Even after the brake job, I still have some NVH from the front end.
> There's a loud clicking/clacking noise coming from somewhere that is
> wheel speed related; it sounds like a much louder version of a stone
> being caught in a tire tread, or a stone loose inside a hubcap. It
> becomes much louder when you go around a corner, and you can feel a
> vibration as well - not through the wheel, but in the seat and through
> the floor. After the brake job, I took the truck back to the shop that
Maybe a cracked wheel?
Does swapping front to back make any difference?
Nate Nagel
Oct 1, 2011, 11:59:44 AM10/1/11
to
idea though. Although it merits investigation because maybe when the
second shop "fixed" the problem they might have rotated the tires then
as well? In which case the problem moved to the back where it was not
noticeable?
I just realized I never tried driving the truck without the hubcaps on.
I probably should try that as well just to eliminate them, although I
seriously doubt that that's the problem.
Paul in Houston TX
Oct 1, 2011, 12:46:17 PM10/1/11
to
snapping sound from the RF wheel. I thought the lugnuts were
loose. Turns out it was the hubcap.
It seems that steel wheels have a lot of flex.
marlin...@verizon.spamdam.net
Oct 1, 2011, 1:26:32 PM10/1/11
to
As far as vibration and other front end problems, it may be ball
joints, especially with that mjany miles.
Nate Nagel
Oct 1, 2011, 6:56:35 PM10/1/11
to
inspection several years in a row... will they cause issues while still
tight enough to pass safety inspection? Also had truck aligned when new
tires were installed and nothing was said about ball joints at that time.
Mike
Oct 1, 2011, 7:34:36 PM10/1/11
to
Why not bring it back to the guy above who made it drive better. You
never seem to take the truck to the same person twice. You have a
strange problem to diagnose so don't expect most people to fix it on the
first try.
>
> Completely unrelated, the battery was dead this morning which pisses
> me off, as I have had both the alternator and battery replaced fairly
> recently, and also when I got the truck I went through and cleaned all
> of the accessable connections and grounds and slathered them with
> silicone grease as PM, because I've always thought that the charging
> system on this truck was kind of tenuous from the way the voltmeter
> drops at idle with any accessories or lights on (it still does it by
> the way, but I've been told by everyone that looks at it that it's
> perfectly normal)
If the truck has the remote mounted starter solenoid on the fender by
the battery, replace it. When they go bad the contacts stick and drain
the batterty. Common problem on fords.
Nate Nagel
Oct 1, 2011, 11:01:33 PM10/1/11
to
twice... I'm sick of dumping money at it and getting it back not fixed :(
>
>>
>> Completely unrelated, the battery was dead this morning which pisses
>> me off, as I have had both the alternator and battery replaced fairly
>> recently, and also when I got the truck I went through and cleaned all
>> of the accessable connections and grounds and slathered them with
>> silicone grease as PM, because I've always thought that the charging
>> system on this truck was kind of tenuous from the way the voltmeter
>> drops at idle with any accessories or lights on (it still does it by
>> the way, but I've been told by everyone that looks at it that it's
>> perfectly normal)
>
>
> If the truck has the remote mounted starter solenoid on the fender by
> the battery, replace it. When they go bad the contacts stick and drain
> the batterty. Common problem on fords.
Studebaker (which I believe is actually shared with older Fords) I
thought it was just a connection block - the battery cable terminates
there with a forked connector and two posts - don't see a cable going to
the starter from there, but I'll have to have another look later. It's
been pouring rain all day, so I haven't even been motivated to do the
first thing I was going to do, which was to check the voltage on the
battery and the KOEO current draw
Steve W.
Oct 1, 2011, 11:46:47 PM10/1/11
to
it for a test drive. Use the E-Brake to stop it.
If the noise goes away then I would look at the rotors for warp or the
caliper mounts for damage.
If the noise is still there then jack up the nose and rotate each side
and listen for a noise with a stethoscope.
You say the noise went away for a while but came back after it sat for a
while? Hos long and under what conditions did it return?
Was it doing it prior to all the work being done or did it start after that?
Does it increase when you apply the brakes?
Does it change if you drop the trans into neutral and let the engine
idle at speed?
You say it changes while turning, BOTH ways? Or is it different based on
direction?
>
>>
>>>
>>> Completely unrelated, the battery was dead this morning which pisses
>>> me off, as I have had both the alternator and battery replaced fairly
>>> recently, and also when I got the truck I went through and cleaned all
>>> of the accessable connections and grounds and slathered them with
>>> silicone grease as PM, because I've always thought that the charging
>>> system on this truck was kind of tenuous from the way the voltmeter
>>> drops at idle with any accessories or lights on (it still does it by
>>> the way, but I've been told by everyone that looks at it that it's
>>> perfectly normal)
>>
>>
>> If the truck has the remote mounted starter solenoid on the fender by
>> the battery, replace it. When they go bad the contacts stick and drain
>> the batterty. Common problem on fords.
>
> there's something there, it doesn't look like the solenoid on my
> Studebaker (which I believe is actually shared with older Fords) I
> thought it was just a connection block - the battery cable terminates
> there with a forked connector and two posts - don't see a cable going to
> the starter from there, but I'll have to have another look later. It's
> been pouring rain all day, so I haven't even been motivated to do the
> first thing I was going to do, which was to check the voltage on the
> battery and the KOEO current draw
>
> nate
>
>
>
--
Nate Nagel
Oct 1, 2011, 11:55:39 PM10/1/11
to
under braking. I'm a little hesitant to try that test as I don't have
anywhere that I can do it that doesn't have very heavy traffic, and most
of it apparently involving people of limited intelligence :( Yes, I
live in NoVA.
>
> If the noise is still there then jack up the nose and rotate each side
> and listen for a noise with a stethoscope.
>
> You say the noise went away for a while but came back after it sat for a
> while? Hos long and under what conditions did it return?
second shop put it back together. It's been getting gradually louder
every time I drive the truck, until now it's obnoxious again.
> Was it doing it prior to all the work being done or did it start after
> that?
it seemed like regular maintenance would fix it right up. When I got it
it had bad wheel bearings, one completely nonfunctional shock, and
warped brakes, and also the cooling system was a little messed up. I've
been picking away at the issues on it and this is the big one remaining
(well, that and the new issue with me finding the battery dead.)
> Does it increase when you apply the brakes?
> Does it change if you drop the trans into neutral and let the engine
> idle at speed?
> You say it changes while turning, BOTH ways? Or is it different based on
> direction?
Nicholas
Oct 2, 2011, 7:40:01 AM10/2/11
to
On Sat, 01 Oct 2011 23:55:39 -0400, Nate Nagel <njn...@roosters.net>
wrote:
wrote:
>> You say it changes while turning, BOTH ways? Or is it different based on
>> direction?
>
>Doesn't seem to matter which direction you turn
>
>nate
I would check the inner race of the wheel bearing fitting to the stub
axle. Of course, my thinking is there is damage to the stub axle, and
that it is out of round, and the wheel bearing is "toggling" on it
when you take turns.
Lg
Nate Nagel
Oct 2, 2011, 9:18:11 AM10/2/11
to
two ball joints, plus junkyard parts of unknown provenance... but there
was at least one very bad wheel bearing on the truck when I bought it,
and due to time constraints (I'd just bought a house at the time and was
cleaning up the joint, and needed another vehicle up and running because
the ECM in my 944 had crapped the bed and was in the shop being fixed) I
didn't replace them myself but paid someone to do so... so I haven't
seen the spindles myself personally.
That would also explain grease dampening the issue after
disassembly/reassembly if the mechanic was conscientious and wiped a
swipe of grease on the spindle before reassembling everything. And then
the issue recurring after driving a few hundred miles.
I'll have to check it out after it ever stops @#$% raining, and let you
know what I find...
I've never actually removed the calipers on a Ford before (I also paid
someone to do the brake job, because that came up while I was *selling*
same house,) but I do know that they don't look anything like anything
I've ever worked on... will I need any special tools?
Nicholas
Oct 2, 2011, 9:27:18 AM10/2/11
to
On Sun, 02 Oct 2011 09:18:11 -0400, Nate Nagel <njn...@roosters.net>
I have a Cen-Tech 1 inch digital indicator, but you can use vernier
calipers. I originally bought it to measure rotor runout. But you
don't have to have it. Vernier calipers should do, along with a
visusal inspection to see if there are any wear marks on the axle
where the bearing sits. Good Luck.
Lg
calipers. I originally bought it to measure rotor runout. But you
don't have to have it. Vernier calipers should do, along with a
visusal inspection to see if there are any wear marks on the axle
where the bearing sits. Good Luck.
Lg
Nate Nagel
Oct 2, 2011, 10:16:17 AM10/2/11
to
by feel alone... I meant do I need anything that I'm not likely to have
(having worked on various VWs, Porsches, GMs etc.) to remove the
calipers. Looking at the shop manual the caliper mounting mechanism
just looks goofy to me, but probably makes sense when you actually have
the wheel off and your head under there...
Nicholas
Oct 2, 2011, 11:20:25 AM10/2/11
to
On Sun, 02 Oct 2011 10:16:17 -0400, Nate Nagel <njn...@roosters.net>
wrote:
>oh, I think that I can tell whether your theory is correct or not just
>by feel alone... I meant do I need anything that I'm not likely to have
>(having worked on various VWs, Porsches, GMs etc.) to remove the
>calipers. Looking at the shop manual the caliper mounting mechanism
>just looks goofy to me, but probably makes sense when you actually have
>the wheel off and your head under there...
>
>nate
AFAIK, nothing special in the way of tools. Except the caliper
bracket bolts are going to be tight, like 70 lb-ft. You might want to
use a pipe over your 1/2 inch socket wrench handle to get those
suckers to come loose.
Lg
wrote:
>oh, I think that I can tell whether your theory is correct or not just
>by feel alone... I meant do I need anything that I'm not likely to have
>(having worked on various VWs, Porsches, GMs etc.) to remove the
>calipers. Looking at the shop manual the caliper mounting mechanism
>just looks goofy to me, but probably makes sense when you actually have
>the wheel off and your head under there...
>
>nate
bracket bolts are going to be tight, like 70 lb-ft. You might want to
use a pipe over your 1/2 inch socket wrench handle to get those
suckers to come loose.
Lg
david
Oct 2, 2011, 12:48:13 PM10/2/11
to
On Sat, 01 Oct 2011 23:46:47 -0400, Steve W. rearranged some electrons to
say:
>
>
> OK to see if it is brake related is easy. Pull the calipers off and take
> it for a test drive. Use the E-Brake to stop it.
>
Let me know where you live, so I can avoid that area.
say:
>
>
> OK to see if it is brake related is easy. Pull the calipers off and take
> it for a test drive. Use the E-Brake to stop it.
>
Jeff Strickland
Oct 2, 2011, 1:31:30 PM10/2/11
to
"david" <no...@nospam.com> wrote in message news:j6a4kd$tg$1...@dont-email.me...
You really only need to know where he lives so you can stay behind him. I
guess you need to know when he goes out....
Maybe there's an app for that.
jim beam
Oct 2, 2011, 2:12:47 PM10/2/11
to
tools to do this stuff yourself if you want to keep a p.o.s. on the
road. a good [a-frame] shop press, a good jack, good axle stands, a
good impact driver - this whole list will cost you the same or less than
you've already spent having the incompetent take your money while
failing to do the job.
as for the noise, jack the car up and see if you can replicate it by
turning wheels. so far, you don't seem to have identified whether it's
front or rear, let alone which side.
[also, start with the simple stuff - try reversing at speed, and braking
hard. you might have a stone in a brake disk vane clipping the caliper.
will typically dislodge by reversing the force application direction!]
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
Nate Nagel
Oct 2, 2011, 11:10:26 PM10/2/11
to
problem is, I already have the tools, but where I live, I can't afford a
place with a garage big enough to pull a pickup truck in and work on it
:( It's way easier to just make more money and pay a (good) mechanic
(if I can find one) than it is to figure out how to make enough money to
afford a place with a real garage.
I really need to leave NoVA but now is not a good time to be looking for
another job.
jim beam
Oct 2, 2011, 11:33:45 PM10/2/11
to
driveways/streets. besides, if you're going under a vehicle, it's often
safer to access it with 2 wheels up on a curb to provide crawl room than
it is to have the thing up on a jack/stands where there is a greater
danger of it rolling off.
>
> I really need to leave NoVA but now is not a good time to be looking for
> another job.
on finding that 10%er that knows what they're doing. use a friend's
driveway, or even the street. if i can do it in stick-up-the-ass san
fran where police helicopters dispatch cruisers to check out someone
under a car with the wheels off [true - personal experience], then you
can manage it out there in the sticks.
>
> nate
>
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
Nate Nagel
Oct 3, 2011, 12:01:00 AM10/3/11
to
I've lost count; but it certainly seems like every time I'm outside
it's been raining for I don't know how long. I don't like working in
the rain. (not good for the tools either.)
>
>>
>> I really need to leave NoVA but now is not a good time to be looking for
>> another job.
>
> no, i think you need to get with the diy program. you just can't rely on
> finding that 10%er that knows what they're doing. use a friend's
> driveway, or even the street. if i can do it in stick-up-the-ass san
> fran where police helicopters dispatch cruisers to check out someone
> under a car with the wheels off [true - personal experience], then you
> can manage it out there in the sticks.
I suppose I could drive a couple hours to somewhere where I have a
friend that *does* have a large garage, but then you know I'll need a
tool or something that I didn't bring with me... and I'm in the middle
of a remodeling project right now so that's actually Priority #1 (having
more than one bathroom in a house that usually has three people in it is
a Good Thing.)
I really do have more money than free time at this point in my life, I
used to be a hard core DIYer but have been trying to get away from it...
gpsman
Oct 3, 2011, 8:15:00 AM10/3/11
to
On Oct 1, 9:09 am, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters.net> wrote:
> I <> had a full brake job done on
A couple:
1. Stop pretending you're a gearhead when you're paying for simple
brake jobs.
2. Slow the fuck down in those mechanically unsound wrecks you steer.
3. Mention your Porsche more in your posts.
-----
- gpsman
> I <> had a full brake job done on
> the truck (a note from my last safety inspection said that the rear
> shoes were almost at the wear limit, so I replaced everything, because
> it pulled a little and the front rotors were warped) including all
> hardware and hoses, and had the front wheel bearings replaced (that
> needed to be done at purchase as well.)
>
> Any ideas...?
> shoes were almost at the wear limit, so I replaced everything, because
> it pulled a little and the front rotors were warped) including all
> hardware and hoses, and had the front wheel bearings replaced (that
> needed to be done at purchase as well.)
>
A couple:
1. Stop pretending you're a gearhead when you're paying for simple
brake jobs.
2. Slow the fuck down in those mechanically unsound wrecks you steer.
3. Mention your Porsche more in your posts.
-----
- gpsman
N8N
Oct 3, 2011, 12:54:05 PM10/3/11
to
On Oct 3, 8:15 am, gpsman <gps...@driversmail.com> wrote:
> On Oct 1, 9:09 am, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters.net> wrote:
>
> > I <> had a full brake job done on
> > the truck (a note from my last safety inspection said that the rear
> > shoes were almost at the wear limit, so I replaced everything, because
> > it pulled a little and the front rotors were warped) including all
> > hardware and hoses, and had the front wheel bearings replaced (that
> > needed to be done at purchase as well.)
>
> > Any ideas...?
>
> A couple:
>
> 1. Stop pretending you're a gearhead when you're paying for simple
> brake jobs.
Um, I have this thing called a JOB. Also have just sold a house and
> On Oct 1, 9:09 am, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters.net> wrote:
>
> > I <> had a full brake job done on
> > the truck (a note from my last safety inspection said that the rear
> > shoes were almost at the wear limit, so I replaced everything, because
> > it pulled a little and the front rotors were warped) including all
> > hardware and hoses, and had the front wheel bearings replaced (that
> > needed to be done at purchase as well.)
>
> > Any ideas...?
>
> A couple:
>
> 1. Stop pretending you're a gearhead when you're paying for simple
> brake jobs.
am in the middle of about 10 projects. I prefer to save my
gearheadedness for projects that I can't pay a regular mechanic for as
opposed to ones that ought to be simple.
> 2. Slow the fuck down in those mechanically unsound wrecks you steer.
> 3. Mention your Porsche more in your posts.
experiences with everyday type cars since I sold my last GTI will be
out of necessity either related to the 944 or the F-150.
Oh, did I mention blow me.
nate
jim beam
Oct 3, 2011, 1:06:53 PM10/3/11
to
On 10/02/2011 09:01 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
<snip>
> I really do have more money than free time at this point in my life, I
> used to be a hard core DIYer but have been trying to get away from it...
<snip>
> I really do have more money than free time at this point in my life, I
> used to be a hard core DIYer but have been trying to get away from it...
jeepers dude, buy a tent canopy thing at woolmort, and some used wooden
pallets. that will keep the rain off from above and below. unless you
prefer working in snow. it's about getting the job done right. clearly
having the money and the time to keep taking the thing to people who
can't fix it ain't solving a thing.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
75yrs.experience
Oct 3, 2011, 1:37:34 PM10/3/11
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jim beam
Oct 3, 2011, 1:43:55 PM10/3/11
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<sarc></sarc>
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
gpsman
Oct 4, 2011, 8:40:06 AM10/4/11
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On Oct 3, 12:54 pm, N8N <njna...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> On Oct 3, 8:15 am, gpsman <gps...@driversmail.com> wrote:
> > On Oct 1, 9:09 am, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters.net> wrote:
>
> > > I <> had a full brake job done on
> > > the truck
>
> On Oct 3, 8:15 am, gpsman <gps...@driversmail.com> wrote:
> > On Oct 1, 9:09 am, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters.net> wrote:
>
> > > I <> had a full brake job done on
> > > the truck
>
> > > Any ideas...?
>
> > A couple:
>
> > 1. Stop pretending you're a gearhead when you're paying for simple
> > brake jobs.
>
> Um, I have this thing called a JOB.
<chortle> Yeah, this is what you purport to be your "work" email,
>
> > A couple:
>
> > 1. Stop pretending you're a gearhead when you're paying for simple
> > brake jobs.
>
> Um, I have this thing called a JOB.
isn't it? Somehow you've managed to find time for +18,000 posts:
http://groups.google.com/groups/profile?hl=en&enc_user=-foHKBMAAACRTsmvHpkZqpCQjnVR4i0zWMj6vob75xS36mXc24h6ww
And, in just one of your many other addys you've managed almost
13,000:
http://groups.google.com/groups/profile?hl=en&enc_user=dp1KcBQAAABfKp61VKwnYrxLGU4BKM1AANzlI28YMOqJoqdK4hA-xw
Yeah, you're absolutely swamped.
> I prefer to save my
> gearheadedness for projects that I can't pay a regular mechanic for as
> opposed to ones that ought to be simple.
-----
- gpsman
Nate Nagel
Oct 7, 2011, 11:26:27 AM10/7/11
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On 10/01/2011 09:09 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
> I'm running out of ideas here... I have a '93 F-150, extended cab, 2WD,
> 300/E4OD that I bought used with about 120K miles on it. It currently
> has about 140K. When I bought it I knew that it had a few issues that
> needed to be addressed, most notably tires out of balance and bad
> shocks, but overall it seemed to be in good shape. To date, I have
> replaced the shocks (myself,) had new tires installed (Michelin LTX AT/2
> - I know they're a little aggressive for a 2WD truck, but they were on
> sale when I bought them, and I drive the truck so seldom I figured that
> a little NVH was not going to be objectionable, and I wanted to make
> sure I could get around in winter) and also had a full brake job done on
> I'm running out of ideas here... I have a '93 F-150, extended cab, 2WD,
> 300/E4OD that I bought used with about 120K miles on it. It currently
> has about 140K. When I bought it I knew that it had a few issues that
> needed to be addressed, most notably tires out of balance and bad
> shocks, but overall it seemed to be in good shape. To date, I have
> replaced the shocks (myself,) had new tires installed (Michelin LTX AT/2
> - I know they're a little aggressive for a 2WD truck, but they were on
> sale when I bought them, and I drive the truck so seldom I figured that
> a little NVH was not going to be objectionable, and I wanted to make
> the truck (a note from my last safety inspection said that the rear
> shoes were almost at the wear limit, so I replaced everything, because
> it pulled a little and the front rotors were warped) including all
> hardware and hoses, and had the front wheel bearings replaced (that
> shoes were almost at the wear limit, so I replaced everything, because
> it pulled a little and the front rotors were warped) including all
> hardware and hoses, and had the front wheel bearings replaced (that
it was the wheel bearings. Dry, scored, and blued. I got boned by
someone, although I'm not sure who - either the shop that replaced the
wheel bearings in the first place, or the shop that did the brake job.
The latter shop definitely boned me, because they got me for three
U-joints and a driveshaft straighten/balance without packing the
bearings properly.
I'm not a happy camper, although I am looking forward to having a truck
that drives acceptably.
n
Nicholas
Oct 7, 2011, 1:09:48 PM10/7/11
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On Fri, 07 Oct 2011 11:26:27 -0400, Nate Nagel <njn...@roosters.net>
wrote:
>FUCKING HELL!
>
>it was the wheel bearings. Dry, scored, and blued. I got boned by
>someone, although I'm not sure who - either the shop that replaced the
>wheel bearings in the first place, or the shop that did the brake job.
>
>The latter shop definitely boned me, because they got me for three
>U-joints and a driveshaft straighten/balance without packing the
>bearings properly.
>
>I'm not a happy camper, although I am looking forward to having a truck
>that drives acceptably.
>
>n
I kinda suspected...
sorry you got "boned," but now you know why I pack my own, having had
one fail at 70mph on a freeway in Canada, taking out the stub axle
with it.
I'm lucky to be alive to tell the tale, it was a bitch keeping the
vehicle from rolling over.
Lg
wrote:
>FUCKING HELL!
>
>it was the wheel bearings. Dry, scored, and blued. I got boned by
>someone, although I'm not sure who - either the shop that replaced the
>wheel bearings in the first place, or the shop that did the brake job.
>
>The latter shop definitely boned me, because they got me for three
>U-joints and a driveshaft straighten/balance without packing the
>bearings properly.
>
>I'm not a happy camper, although I am looking forward to having a truck
>that drives acceptably.
>
>n
sorry you got "boned," but now you know why I pack my own, having had
one fail at 70mph on a freeway in Canada, taking out the stub axle
with it.
I'm lucky to be alive to tell the tale, it was a bitch keeping the
vehicle from rolling over.
Lg
Nate Nagel
Oct 7, 2011, 2:39:08 PM10/7/11
to
myself, or else pay the high-end shop $110/hr plus a 100% markup over
guy on the street OTC pricing on parts.
Sadly, those seem to be the only two options, as pretty much every less
expensive shop has disappointed me so far.
nate
Nate Nagel
Oct 7, 2011, 2:40:19 PM10/7/11
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grease gun and hit the U-joints... just in case. (probably wouldn't
hurt to do the ball joints and tie rods while I'm at it)
Nicholas
Oct 7, 2011, 3:01:44 PM10/7/11
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On Fri, 07 Oct 2011 14:40:19 -0400, Nate Nagel <njn...@roosters.net>
A lot of vehicles don't have zerk fittings on them any more, just
bolts. Might have to get some zerk fittings to replace the bolts with
before beginning your lube job.
Lg
bolts. Might have to get some zerk fittings to replace the bolts with
before beginning your lube job.
Lg
Nate Nagel
Oct 7, 2011, 3:10:03 PM10/7/11
to
replacements would as well... haven't driven it far enough since to be
time to hit them, but like I said, given what I've seen so far...
gpsman
Oct 10, 2011, 8:55:25 AM10/10/11
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On Oct 7, 11:26 am, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters.net> wrote:
>
> it was the wheel bearings. Dry, scored, and blued.
>
> it was the wheel bearings. Dry, scored, and blued.
<spit take>
> I got boned by
> someone, although I'm not sure who - either the shop that replaced the
> wheel bearings in the first place, or the shop that did the brake job.
False dichotomy- you "boned" yourself. Again.
-----
- gpsman
jim beam
Oct 10, 2011, 6:42:57 PM10/10/11
to
if the spindles are also blued, you'd be well advised to replace them.
that's a fatigue nightmare just waiting to pounce.
> I got boned by
> someone, although I'm not sure who - either the shop that replaced the
> wheel bearings in the first place, or the shop that did the brake job.
>
> The latter shop definitely boned me, because they got me for three
> U-joints and a driveshaft straighten/balance without packing the
> bearings properly.
>
> I'm not a happy camper, although I am looking forward to having a truck
> that drives acceptably.
>
> n
>
remember that conversation we had about doing this stuff yourself? it's
not about being a gearhead or about economics [although both are
relevant], it's about being sure something crucial is done correctly.
i've worked as a pro. i've seen stuff that beggars belief. my fave is
the coworker who fitted a new crate engine, connected it up, fired it
up, and started revving the nads off it. after a minute or so, it
started to bog and run rough. he revs it more. eventually, after even
he figures out something isn't quite right, he shuts it down and sticks
his head back under the hood scratching his head. i saunter on over
because i know this clown and i know it's something basic. i check the
coolant - ok. i check the oil. there isn't any.
basically, it was bogging because he was friction welding the rings to
the cylinders. his solution? he fills it with oil, hand cranks to free
the pistons, and shoves it out the door ready for the customer. the
customer got charged full price.
you are that guy nate. unless you find one of those rare individuals
that actually knows what they're doing, save your time, money,
frustration and vehicle - do this stuff yourself.
--
nomina rutrum rutrum
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