Synthetic up to the test.
fox...@digitaldune.net
that may have high mileage now and would like to share their
experiences?
Christopher M. Keith
and my truck (94 ranger xlt ext cab) still run like the day it came off the
line i have nothing but good things to say about syn oil. i would recomend
it to anyone that has not tried it.
<fox...@digitaldune.net> wrote in message
news:3AD95240...@digitaldune.net...
Mbflash
now has 145,000 no smoke no noise. I replaced the timing chain and water
pump at 100,000 miles and dropped the pan and it was spotless.
Debbie and Roger Bess
I have over 200k miles on my 89' Ranger.. I never used synthetic and change
the oil every 3k miles..
If you change your oil every 3k miles, your getting the same protection as
using a synthetic..
If you would like to take advantage of extended oil drains, then a synthetic
can help you..
This is why I believe using Mobil1 is no better than using a regular oil on
normal engines..
(one note about extended oil drains: although some synthetics supported
drains, it is still recommended that you change the filter every 3k miles or
use an aftermarket filter that can support longer intervals).
"Christopher M. Keith" <cke...@socket.net> wrote in message
news:tdka40f...@corp.supernews.com...
fox...@digitaldune.net
way I like to use FRAM Tough guard filters, supposed to filter better, I believe
it was 10-20 microns.
ho...@nospamextremejeep.com
http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html and be enlightened,
Fram filters won't touch any of my vehicles, right now I'm using Mobil 1
filters.
fox...@digitaldune.net wrote:
--
--
Hogan Whittall
'47 CJ2A - 302, C5, 5.38's, yada, yada
'98 XJ Classic - BFG MTs, RS9ks
__________________________________________________________________
This is formal notice under California Assembly Bill 1629, enacted
9/26/98 that any UCE sent to my email address will be billed $50
per incident to the legally allowed maximum of $25,000.
__________________________________________________________________
Matt Macchiarolo
I've run Mobil 1 5W30 since first oil change in my '96 5.8L Club Wagon, 104,000
miles. No leaks, no smoke, no oil use. Seeps a little where the dipstick tube
enters the engine. :-) but doesn't drip or anything, just a little wetness.
Runs like it was new.
Don't use AMSOIL products or Fram filters.
* * *
Matt Macchiarolo...
2000 TJ Sport (slightly modified)
Wolverine 4-Wheelers: www.wolverine4wd.org/
www.townpeddler.com
www.atmsoundworks.com
Todd Kattelman
"Debbie and Roger Bess" <rnd...@attglobal.net> wrote in message
news:3ada5...@news1.prserv.net...
>
> If you change your oil every 3k miles, your getting the same protection as
> using a synthetic..
> If you would like to take advantage of extended oil drains, then a
synthetic
> can help you..
>
> This is why I believe using Mobil1 is no better than using a regular oil
on
> normal engines..
>
If you do any heavy pulling with your vehicle, another advantage of
synthetic is its ability to lose heat better than any regular oil. In other
words the oil temperature will run cooler with a synthetic than with
conventional oils.
RichT
I believe Todd is technically correct but from a practical
POV Roger has it right. The anecdotal evendence from race
car drivers and other high performance scenarios not
withstanding I provide the following from
http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_Slick_502.html#SLICK_001
even though it is written for motorcycle engines where it
would apply even more because they are for the most part
more high performance than any auto/truck motor on the
market.
""Synthetics and synthetic blends offer a wider range of
protection than standard petroleum products. However, it
should be noted that this extended range of protection
reaches into an area of temperatures and pressures virtually
impossible to attain inside most motorcycle engines and
transmissions. In other words, if you use them, you are
buying a sort of "overkill protection." It's certainly not
going to hurt anything - it's just unnecessary. That is,
unless it makes you feel better knowing the
extra protection is on board, in which case the added
expense may be well justified.
As a basic rule of thumb, using the standard engine oil
recommended by your bike's manufacturer and changing it
about every 3000 miles will afford you all the protection
you'll ever need. But if you feel better knowing you have
more protection than you need or, if you like the extended
service-life feature, there's certainly nothing wrong with
using a premium grade synthetic blend lubricant.""
RichT
Debbie and Roger Bess
additional cost of using synthetic, otherwise the dino oils are just as
good.. When I mentioned aftermarket filters, I was referring to the Amsoil
filters and the like which are much larger and can go I think over 10k miles
before needing to be changed.. I only use motorcraft filters.. I've heard
rumors about the quality of Fram filters not being all that great, and the
motorcraft is only a buck more or so..
I really don't get all that caught up in how many microns the filter goes
down too.. If its too low, it seems like it could result in lower pressure
or more apt to clog, to big then it lets dirt through..
<fox...@digitaldune.net> wrote in message
news:3ADA7C9C...@digitaldune.net...
ho...@nospamextremejeep.com
salespeople I run into on Usenet. Full of all these "facts" that have no
truth to them. Bet you can't pull up any references to back up your
claims, can you? Of course not. Just another "AMSoil is the second
coming of Jesus" preaching spew.
Anyway, I think you're probably the 50th AMSoil salesperson to visit one
of the auto newsgroups I frequent, I'm sure you won't be the last. It
just gets old, seeing the same mindless drivel about AMSoil day after day
from people trying to peddle the stuff.
Please, tell us why AMSoil isn't API Certified. I'd really like to know,
but all the other AMSoil salespeople couldn't answer the question. Can
you?
The Last Church <d...@sierra.net> wrote:
> On Sun, 15 Apr 2001 22:40:44 -0400, "Debbie and Roger Bess"
> <rnd...@attglobal.net> wrote:
>>If you change your oil every 3k miles, your getting the same protection as
>>using a synthetic..
> Not even close............You drain all the water out of yours an I
> mine....... I can come home doing the speed limit with no damage....
> You ain't coming home. And that just one of many advantages to
> synthetic.
>>If you would like to take advantage of extended oil drains, then a synthetic
>>can help you..
> You should be changing junk oil at 1000 mi for that is when all the
> additive package is burned off. The next 2000 you running crude with
> acid, sulfur and many other chemicals that eat an engine, running
> through your system.
>>(one note about extended oil drains: although some synthetics supported
>>drains, it is still recommended that you change the filter every 3k miles or
>>use an aftermarket filter that can support longer intervals).
> I change oil and filter every 25,000 miles and mine is a diesel. That
> cost me $45. Junk oil, you have to change all the time and it cost
> you $145.00 for the same miles and eats your engine.
> Why do you think oil and car co.'s want to keep you in the dark about
> synthetics like Amsoil.... They want the car to ware out as they
> planed it.
> Michael
> .
> A preacher is the blind
> leading the blind...
> The Last Church
> http://www.thelastchurch.org
> mic...@thelastchurch.org
Neil Nelson
> On Mon, 16 Apr 2001 22:01:12 -0400, "Debbie and Roger Bess"
> <rnd...@attglobal.net> wrote:
> >I really don't get all that caught up in how many microns the filter goes
> >down too.. If its too low, it seems like it could result in lower pressure
> >or more apt to clog,
>
> That is not the way it works.
Actually, it IS. It is possible to create a pressure drop across the
filter media if the level of filtration is to great.
This will either cause low oil volume to all parts downstream from the
filter or cause the by-pass valve (if equiped) in the filter to open
creating a situation where your engine is being lubricated by un-filtered
oil.
Think about why a filter needs to be changed more often if the engine is
operated in dusty conditions.
> a filter that cleans down to 1/10 of 1
> micron will not even let water pass through it but oil just flow's
> unrestricted.
1/10th of a micron filtering capability is not necessary.
> How ever if you could plug the filter a valve in the
> filter would open and the oil would pass up the filter and direct into
> the pan.
Oh, so oil travels from the filter to the pan does it?
Or is it oil travels from the filter to the pan when the by-pass valve opens?
Then again, what good is oil that has by-passed the filter?
> And you should pay attention to microns as 99% of your ware is
> 20 micron and smaller
Say what? Contaminants bigger than 20 microns can only count for 1% of
engine wear?
> so a 35 micron filter does NOTHING but take your
> money. You could just put the $12. back in your pocket and leave the
> old filter on the car because a new one will not do anything but take
> more of your money.
Keep it up LC, we're having a great laugh.
Especially loved the one about Scamsoil being the factory fill oil in new
Corvettes.
Chet Botkins
truck that makes it last a long time is also a good thing. Getting on a
soapbox and protelyzing Amsoil as the second coming is NOT a good thing.
Post of merits of the product. Let me make up my mind as to why I chose to
use dino oil or a synthetic. I paid a lot of money for my F350 and I expect
it to last a long time. If I chose $80 for an oil change and another $10
for an oil filter I should expect to get a return on that expense. Dino oil
(Rotella T 15W40) is $32.00 for six gallons at Wally World and $10. for a
Ford Motorcraft filter. If I used the synthetic I would have to leave the
synthetic in place for 15,000 miles to break even if I did my normal dino
oil change every 5,000 miles. As good as the product may be it simply is
not cost effective to use some of the synthetics at the current price.
Just my $0.02
Chet Botkins
2000 F350 SD
"The Last Church" <d...@sierra.net> wrote in message
news:ubnndtc3m1td3641e...@4ax.com...
RichT
The Last Church wrote:
>
> Then you need to change your mind....
I don't NEED to change anything except the contents of my
twit filter. Welcome as you are one of the few!
> In other words, if you use them, you are buying a sort of
> "overkill protection."
>
> (((( Can you tell when a slick hustler is giving you the con? ))))
I sure can and in this case its a blind amsoil preacher
trying to lead potential blind customers - cept no ones
buying it.
PLONK!
> A preacher is the blind
> leading the blind...
>
ho...@nospamextremejeep.com
independant of every single other oil manufacturer and the way they work.
You really are a preacher leading the blind and, obviously, you can't even
see it.
So all oil, besides AMSoil, is "Junk oil" regardless of if it's synthetic
or not. Yeah. And API Certification is just a scam. Uh-huh. Wow, I
think you're the most ignorant AMSoil salesdroid I've seen yet. That's
quite an accomplishment!
Say hello to my killfile, moron.
The Last Church <d...@sierra.net> wrote:
> On Tue, 17 Apr 2001 06:51:51 GMT, ho...@extremejeep.com wrote:
>> It
>>just gets old, seeing the same mindless drivel about AMSoil day after day
>>from people trying to peddle the stuff.
> And it get just as old listening to Morons support junk oil and their
> line of propaganda. How many do you fool into staying with the oil
> co's who's only interest is to screw the public with ever increasing
> fuel prices claiming there is a shortage of oil when there is a glut
> or oil waisted in the crank case of America. STOP USING IT! and see
> how fast the price of fuel drops.
>>
>>Please, tell us why AMSoil isn't API Certified.
> Because it is reserved for and controlled by Junk oil co's.
> A--American P--- petroleum I--- institute
>>I'd really like to know,
> Now you know!
> Do you know The junk oils of america don't even come up to the BPI
> B--- british P--- petroleum I-----institute
> standards of the Uk and many other countries. They can't sell it in
> the Uk. And many other places.....
> **************************************************
Neil Nelson
> On Tue, 17 Apr 2001 08:04:31 -0500, nel...@execpc.com (Neil Nelson)
> wrote:
> >
> >Actually, it IS. It is possible to create a pressure drop across the
> >filter media if the level of filtration is to great.
>
> Modern filters have a by-pass port. If the pressure gets up across
> the media,,,,, A gate opens and sends the oil past the filter and
> taking it out of the loop......The oil gets where it is going,
> ignoring the filter.
As far as filters in general, some do have a by-pass valve, some don't.
Pretty easy to determine by reading the technical sections of any major
brand filter catalog.
> >> How ever if you could plug the filter a valve in the
> >> filter would open and the oil would pass up the filter and direct into
> >> the pan.
> >
> >Oh, so oil travels from the filter to the pan does it?
>
> Yes the by-pass filter leads to the oil pan.............
Sounds like you've jumped from describing the function of a standard
replacement filters by-pass valve to describing a "by-pass" style filter,
not that it matters, please describe for us the advantage of having oil
routed back to the oilpan from the by-pass valve on this filter that has a
plugged media. If the oil is routed from the by-pass valve directly back
to the oilpan because of a plugged filter, the engine is being starved for
oil supply. If the by-pass valve is opening to allow un-filtered oil to
supply the engine, the damage is merely postponed, not eliminated.
>
> >Then again, what good is oil that has by-passed the filter?
>
> It is only a safety feature seldom used.....The oil gets filtered but
> if you left the filter on for a few years the gate would open.
I don't think that time ("years") has anything to do with it.
> >> And you should pay attention to microns as 99% of your ware is
> >> 20 micron and smaller
> >
> >> so a 35 micron filter does NOTHING but take your
> >> money. You could just put the $12. back in your pocket and leave the
> >> old filter on the car because a new one will not do anything but take
> >> more of your money.
> >
> >
> >Keep it up LC, we're having a great laugh.
>
> That's fine for we are laughing at you to........ But we are laughing
> all the way to the bank to make a deposit in our savings account....
What a foolish place to put your money.
You're putting it ware/wear/where?
And you're claims about [sc]Amsoil being the OEM factory fill in Corvettes?
Debbie and Roger Bess
"The Last Church" <d...@sierra.net> wrote in message
> >If you change your oil every 3k miles, your getting the same protection
as
> >using a synthetic..
>
> Not even close............You drain all the water out of yours an I
> mine....... I can come home doing the speed limit with no damage....
> You ain't coming home. And that just one of many advantages to
> synthetic.
>
Sorry, but Amsoil does not even claim that.. I agree that Amsoil is an
extremely high quality oil..
> >If you would like to take advantage of extended oil drains, then a
synthetic
> >can help you..
>
> You should be changing junk oil at 1000 mi for that is when all the
> additive package is burned off. The next 2000 you running crude with
> acid, sulfur and many other chemicals that eat an engine, running
> through your system.
>
Again, you are incorrect. This has been proven by independant oil analysis
done on motor oils..
A decent quality dino oil is good for 3 to 5k miles. (Havoline, Valvoline
etc)
> I change oil and filter every 25,000 miles and mine is a diesel. That
> cost me $45. Junk oil, you have to change all the time and it cost
> you $145.00 for the same miles and eats your engine.
>
Again, you are going against Amsoils own recommendations. Here is the quote
from the Amsoil site about their filters:
-------------
"AMSOIL INC. recommends changing the AMSOIL SDF according to the following
guidelines.
In gasoline-fueled engines using any AMSOIL motor oil except AMSOIL XL-7500
Synthetic Motor Oil, change the filter at 12,500-mile or six-month
intervals, whichever comes first. In gasoline-fueled engines using AMSOIL
XL-7500 Synthetic Motor Oil, change the filter at 7,500-mile or six-month
intervals, whichever comes first.
In diesel-fueled large truck engines, change the filter(s) at the engine
manufacturer's recommended oil change interval. In diesel-fueled light
trucks, including pickups and vans, change the filter at 7,000-mile or
six-month intervals, whichever comes first."
----------
Going 25k miles on their filters is not advisable..
Going 25k miles on Amsoil's oil in a Diesel is also not recommended. Here is
the quote from Amsoil's site
--------
"SERVICE LIFE
Diesel engines, fleet vehicle engines and industrial engines: drain oil at
intervals up to two times longer than recommended by the engine manufacturer
or at six month intervals. Extended drain intervals may be used if they are
supported by the findings of used oil analysis.
Change AMSOIL Full Flow Oil Filters at 12,500-mile or six-month intervals,
whichever comes first, in gasoline engines. In diesel engines change AMSOIL
Full-Flow Oil Filter at 7,000 miles or six months, whichever comes first.
Change other manufacturers' oil filters at the engine manufacturer's
recommended filter change intervals."
----------
There is also a quote from Amsoil's site disputing your previous claim that
Amsoil doesn't use an additives, so there is nothing to wear out..
---------
(for the diesel oils)
"Extended Drain Intervals
AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil is formulated for
extended drain intervals. Its unique synthetic formulation, improved
detergent/dispersant capabilities, and long drain additive package ensure
maximum engine protection, cleanliness and performance over extended drain
periods. Its advanced 12 TBN formulation keeps engines in superb condition
even when the oil is used for extended drain intervals."
-----------
It's a free country and you can do/say what you want, however you are making
claims about an oil brand that even the manufacture of the oil does not
agree with..
btw, I currently use Amsoil in my truck as well.. But I follow their
recommendations..
Debbie and Roger Bess
> micron will not even let water pass through it but oil just flow's
> filter would open and the oil would pass up the filter and direct into
> the pan.
>
Debbie and Roger Bess
"Chet Botkins" <cbot...@visuallink.com> wrote in message
news:tdpiajh...@corp.supernews.com...
Debbie and Roger Bess
He's making claims and statements that even Amsoil doesn't support.
Geez, he even claims that there's a fuel shortage because of how much oil
engines hold..
Someone can remind me how many gallons of crude does it take to make a
gallon gasoline vs motor oil? Then, how many mpg of oil does your vehicle
use compared to fuel.. :)
<ho...@NOSPAMextremejeep.com> wrote in message
news:zz6D6.189$Ph...@rubicon.extremejeep.com...
Debbie and Roger Bess
salesman..
"The Last Church" <d...@sierra.net> wrote in message
news:ubnndtc3m1td3641e...@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 16 Apr 2001 17:14:04 -0700, RichT <rt...@prodigy.net> wrote:
>
>
> >
> >I believe Todd is technically correct but
>
> Then you need to change your mind....
>
>
> >withstanding I provide the following from
> And this link is from an oil company representative in support of junk
> oil
> >http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_Slick_502.html#SLICK_001
>
> It has many lies and is only looking for suckers who will stay with
> junk oil...................
> 17. Sidebar: Synthetic Oils
> Whenever we talk about oil additives, the subject of synthetic oils
> inevitably crops up. Actually, the tow subjects have very little to do
> with each other, but since many riders seem to equate additives and
> synthetics together in their minds, we will take a few lines just to
> clear the air.
> Synthetic oils were originally developed for use in gas turbine
> engines. In most cases they are capable of maintaining their viscosity
> for longer periods of use and under much greater temperatures and
> pressures than petroleum products. Commons synthetics used for engine
> lubrication today are Polysaccharide (like Mobil 1) or Dibasic Organic
> Esters (like AMSOIL). They are fully compatible with conventional oils
> and can be mixed, providing their ratings match.
>
> Probably the best situation is a blend of synthetics and mineral oils,
> such as Golden Spectra and AGIP Sint 2000.
>
> Wrong; ( It is a loss to mix Amsoil with another as you will degrade
> it)
>
>
> Synthetics offer a wider range of protection than standard petroleum
> products. However, it should be noted that this extended range of
> protection reaches into an area of temperatures and pressures
> virtually impossible to attain inside most motorcycle engines and
> transmissions.
>
> In other words, if you use them, you are buying a sort of
> "overkill protection."
>
> (((( Can you tell when a slick hustler is giving you the con? ))))
>
> It's certainly not going to hurt anything - it's just unnecessary.
> That is, unless it makes you feel better knowing the extra protection
> is on board, in which case the added expense may be well justified.
>
> (((Don't swallow crap like this! This guy is paid to steer you away
> from products that make your equipment last forever. They just want
> to keep the demand for junk oil high as long as they can.))))))))))
>
> >
> >"" In other words, if you use them, you are
> >buying a sort of "overkill protection."
> >
> >As a basic rule of thumb, using the standard engine oil
> >recommended by your bike's manufacturer and changing it
> >about every 3000 miles will afford you all the protection
> >you'll ever need.
> ((((((((((( yea right sucker,,,, And how much junk oil stock do you
> own???)))))))))))))))
>
> Junk oil is just that--- JUNK--- anything made from petroleum......
>
>
> Michael
>
>
> Cut and Paste the following code on your page for a direct link to
> Amsoil on line store.
> **********************************
>
> <p align="center"><font face="Arial" color="#B30000">To order AMSOIL
> Products, click on the link below</font></p>
> <p align="center"><font face="Arial">
> <a
> href="http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?zo=304333&page=store">AMSOIL
> Online Store</a></font>
>
> ***************************************
Neil Nelson
> On Tue, 17 Apr 2001 23:51:06 -0400, "Debbie and Roger Bess"
> <rnd...@attglobal.net> wrote:
>
> >So your saying that water molecules are larger than oil molecules?
> >
>
> I'm saying water molecules are larger than your brain.
>
>
A one line, nine word reply, followed by 98 lines of SPAM.
I smell usenet "newbie".
Debbie and Roger Bess
You make up your own opinions about Amsoil oil and its capabilities and
claim this is what Amsoil supports.
I dispute your claims using documentation from the manufacturer of the oil.
You respond not with facts, but with personal attacks only.. I guess thats
check-mate.. you got me..
"The Last Church" <d...@sierra.net> wrote in message
news:gvlrdt0bsjj6j0q4v...@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 17 Apr 2001 23:51:06 -0400, "Debbie and Roger Bess"
> <rnd...@attglobal.net> wrote:
>
> >So your saying that water molecules are larger than oil molecules?
> >
>
> I'm saying water molecules are larger than your brain.
>
>
>
> DIESEL AND MARINE
> MOTOR OIL
> SAE 15W-40
> Custom-Blended For Outstanding
> Performance In Today's Engines
> PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
> AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor
> Oil combines the superior lubricity and performance capa-bilities
> of a premium synthetic lubricant with special rust
> and corrosion inhibitors. AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty
> Diesel and Marine Motor Oil is recommended for engines
> used in marine applications, as well as diesel engines
> used in trucks, fleets, mining, earth moving, construction
> and farm equipment. Other applications include taxi and
> local delivery fleets with gasoline or diesel engines. With its
> extended drain intervals, AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty
> Diesel and Marine Motor Oil reduces maintenance
> costs, downtime and the cost of waste oil disposal.
> Provides High Shear Stability
> AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor
> Oil surpasses the European ACEA and North American
> SAE oil specifications for high temperature/high shear
> (HTHS) viscosity. It is significantly more shear stable than
> conventional motor oils, retaining its viscosity at tempera-tures
> and loads that break down conventional oils. AMSOIL
> Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil maintains
> an extremely protective viscosity of greater than 3.7 cP at
> 302°F (150°C) in the ASTM D-4683 High Temperature/High
> Shear Test, exceeding the test limits.
> Prevents Rust and Corrosion
> AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor
> Oil contains special rust and corrosion-inhibiting additives
> to prevent the rusting or corrosion of iron, copper, lead and
> aluminum materials.
> Improves Fuel Economy
> The premium quality synthetic base stocks in AMSOIL
> Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil
> provide a tough lubricating film on all engine parts,
> reducing friction and fuel consumption. Reduced fuel con-sumption
> reduces exhaust emissions of carbon dioxide,
> water and particulates.
> Resists Oxidation - Reduces Engine Wear
> Conventional oils oxidize at high temperatures, causing
> sludge and deposit build-up that decrease fuel efficiency
> and contribute to corrosion and increased engine wear.
> AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor
> Oil, with a flash point of 442°F (228°C), resists oxidation
> and thermal breakdown far better than conventional oils.
> It continues to provide maximum protection at tempera-tures
> that oxidize conventional oils. Also, the advanced
> heat transfer capabilities and high lubricity of AMSOIL
> Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil helps
> engines run cooler and reduces wear.
> Extended Drain Intervals
> AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor
> Oil is formulated for extended drain intervals. Its unique syn-thetic
> formulation, improved detergent/dispersant capabilities,
> and long drain additive package ensure maximum engine
> protection, cleanliness and performance over extended drain
> periods. Its advanced 12 TBN formulation keeps engines in
> superb condition even when the oil is used for extended
> drain intervals.
> Provides Low Temperature Protection
> AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor
> Oil remains fluid at temperatures as low as -47°F (-44°C).
> It circulates rapidly to provide vital lubrication and prevent
> engine wear caused by lack of oil flow. AMSOIL Synthetic
> Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil allows quicker,
> easier cold temperature starting with less engine wear.
> Reduces Oil Consumption and Emissions
> AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor
> Oil far exceeds the NOACK Volatility Test. Many conventional
> lubricants cannot pass this requirement. Low volatility means
> less oil vapor passing into the combustion chamber. A reduc-tion
> of oil vapor means lower oil consumption and lower
> exhaust emissions. The high detergent alkalinity of AMSOIL
> Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil also
> helps reduce oil consumption.
> . API Engine Service CH-4, CG-4, CF-2, CF, SH, SJ
> . MIL-PRF-2104G, . MIL-L-21260D*
> . Caterpillar TO-2, TO-3 . Allison C-3, C-4
> . Mack EO-L, EO-L+, EO-M, EO-M+ . M.A.N. 271
> . Mercedes-Benz AG 227.1, 228.1, 228.3
> . Scania Long Drain . Volvo VDS, VDS-2
> . VW 505.00 . Cummins CES 20071, 20072, 20076
> . MTU . EMA LRG1
> *Rust Protection and Acid Neutralization Test
> "The First in Synthetics"
>
> TYPICAL TECHNICAL PROPERTIES
> AMSOIL Synthetic SAE 15W-40 Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil
> (AME)
> Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cST ..........................15.0
> (ASTM D-445)
> Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cST ............................91.2
> (ASTM D-445)
> Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270).................................172
> CCS Viscosity @ -15°C, cP (ASTM D-2602) ...........2350
> Pour Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-97) ........................-44 (-47)
> Flash Point °C (°F) (ASTM D-92) .....................228 (442)
> Four Ball Wear Test (ASTM D-4172B: 40 kg, 75......... ... .... ..
Bill Beyer
posted is garbage, He's just another AMDROID trying to sell you his
overpriced unapproved snake oil...
--
/// Friends help you move...Real friends help you move bodies \\\
"The Last Church" <d...@sierra.net> wrote in message
news:ubnndtc3m1td3641e...@4ax.com...
<mindless AMDROID drivel mercifully snipped>
STU
<rnd...@attglobal.net> wrote:
> I don't think even Amsoil would want him representing them.
>He's making claims and statements that even Amsoil doesn't support.
>
>Geez, he even claims that there's a fuel shortage because of how much oil
>engines hold..
>
>Someone can remind me how many gallons of crude does it take to make a
>gallon gasoline vs motor oil? Then, how many mpg of oil does your vehicle
>use compared to fuel.. :)
Debbie, it has been a while since I looked, but about 2% of the crude
oil in the word goes towards lubricant manufacture.
Most synthetic oils are made from crude oil using a REFINING process,
leaving behind the crap they do not want. This makes a good lube,
better then the original mineral oil, but it is not a synthisis.
The API decided to change the industry definition of synthetic from
"Bonded molicules", to "more highly refined", at the time Shell, Mobil
and Castrol were before the courts for their advertising claims.
It is possible most SYNTHETIC OILS are just very highly refined
mineral oil like Mobil 1 or Shell or Castrol ( who use Mobil or Shell
products as their base oil).
Who knows??? They need to get their base from somewhere.
Regards
STU BOND
PS BTW I use Red Line Oil because of the number of world champions and
record holders that use it and because I have seen inside engines that
have been on it. It is a Poly Ol Ester and is made by combining small
molicules to make larger molicules. Hmmm a real synthetic.
Richard Marshall
miles. Only engine repairs have been water pump, 3 alternators, none of
which are oil related.
ho...@nospamextremejeep.com
Why the thick 15w40 oil?
--
--
Hogan Whittall
'82 CJ-7, Buick 231 V6, 4.10s, D300, T5, blah blah
Richard Marshall
Incidentally, I do not like the pyramid sales mechanism of Amsoil, and I
do not sell it - am a consumer only. Might be just as happy with Mobil
1, and would use it in a New York minute if Amsoil were unavailable. As
for viscosity, my oil pressure gauge consistently reads low, even though
the oil is rated at 15-40. I'm told that low pressure is less important
so long as plate strength is high. Also, running Amsoil 15-40 diesel
oil in '76 E100 van and '01 Olds 88, with 178K miles and 235K miles
respectively. No wrenches have ever touched any of the three. I know
other manufacturers now produce synthetic oils, and I have no idea what
may be their relative quality. I use the Amsoil because it has saved my
a** for many years, so am reluctant to experiment with alternatives.
ho...@nospamextremejeep.com
that has normal oil pressure with the proper oil, but it seems you have
low oil pressure from worn engines...hmmmm...if they were fed AMSoil all
their life, that would worry me. I use Mobil 1 and couldn't be happier,
but people use what they know and trust. Have you verified the oil
pressure? I'm not sure the gauge is even a real gauge on that year, it's
likely just an on/off switch and your oil pressure hasn't been low at all.
Just an idea...
Richard Marshall <rmar...@cherryhillpottery.com> wrote:
Richard Marshall
Actually, the Amsoil 15-40 seems to have about the same pour ability as
conventional 10-30, hot or cold, though this is just a shade tree judgment.
Of the three engines, the 1988 302 is the only one with an oil pressure gauge,
and it has read low from new, so wear is not a factor. It has shown low
pressure for 361K miles, so I stopped worrying about it some years ago.
Incidentally, I notice a typo in my last post. The Olds is a '91, not an
'01. Sorry about that. Nobody could drive a car that far that fast!
What about the other, new brands of synthetics? I have seen ads on tv for
some of them but have no knowledge of how good they are. Therefore, Amsoil
and Mobil1 are the only ones I have full confidence in at this time.
Matt Macchiarolo
<rmar...@cherryhillpottery.com> writes:
>Change oil and filter every 30k.
??? Filter changes at the very least should be a lot more often.
Richard Marshall
Yes. For all practical purposes, most of the time I am running no filter
at all.