Description:
Riding the ocean waves.
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NS today -- 1/29/12 (Volcom 2)
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First day was stopped because it was too big. Next day almost was
stopped because it was too small. Surf had dropped drastically
overnight. Still good stuff, but just such an extreme change.
Performance level was still really high. But in a different way. I
missed it but Flynn Novak was trying his Flynnstone Flip. Backdoor was... more »
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NS today -- 1/28/12 (Volcom 1)
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Swell came in much stronger than expected, with a firm north push. Not
good for macking Pipeline.
Volcom called the Pipe Pro on for today to get the contest started.
Good photo conditions with trades returning and pretty clear skies.
However, the swell was funky and big, many times rolling in from Third... more »
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NS today -- 1/25/12 (crumble)
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Thought for sure that the Pipe Pro would run today so I cleared my
morning calendar. Driving out there, was shocked to hear that they
weren't running. Though a swell filled in overnight, knew that there
were two even bigger swells coming right behind.
Hitting the beach, I realized that they made the right call. Nice day,... more »
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ES today -- P-Rock
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Kona winds so decided to check out the bodysurfing contest at Pyramid
Rock. The day before was (of course) pretty epic but at least I got to
shoot some clean offshore surf.
Really nice talking story with friends from a slightly different
surfing subculture, the bodysurfers. They definitely are a different... more »
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NS today -- 1/13 12 (monk seal)
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Took a chance going to the North Shore. Impending unstable weather,
but I needed to stretch my legs. When I got there, the weather had
already turned with onshore winds swirling around and crumbling, messy
surf everywhere.
So I cruised the beach a bit. Chanced upon a tired Hawaiian monk seal
and kept a respectful distance while enjoying his lollygagging (sorry,... more »
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NS today -- 1/8/12 (Backdoor Shootout 2)
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Went early to try and shoot the moonset. Had some challenges with
focus and exposure--need to practice much more.
Surf was bigger, but the swell angle shifted to a more NW angle. It
didn't look great early on, so they took a long time to decide to run.
So I shot from the beach until the call.... more »
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NS today -- 1/7/12 (Backdoor Shootout 1)
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Driving through the North Shore I thought the surf wasn't as big as
the buoys indicated. So much so, that I was going to throw on the
fisheye lens. But one look at Pipeline gave me a reality check. A set
was coming through (apparently the set of the morning). Solid 10 ft
plus swell. Got me jacked.... more »
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