Sets were in the head-high range with stiff side/offshore, hellacious
longshore drift and a low tide made for some strict wave judgment
calls.
Real swells started to hit about 10ish or so. Had the first one pull
through while I was paddling out from a wave. I made it outside just
in time to see the set jacking up about 40’ in front of me. The six or
so guys out (including me) got cleaned up by that and the next two.
Probably 8’ faces on the sets, and they lined up real well, long
roping rights got covered up on two. Nice day.
Today is junk,