An old friend
Turby
drying off, an old surfing buddy walked up. Joe Tabler of
http://www.surfbooks.com/
(Check out the "surf blurb" link. Cool stuff.)
I hadn't seen him in a long time. We had a nice long chat. He said he
hadn't been in the water all year, which is a bit disgusting for a guy
so committed to the sport, but he was never into cold water anyway. We
talked about the good old days, some of the crazy locals, changes and
so on. He still wants me to finish a photo project I started 32+ years
ago.
The conversation swung around to this place we call home. I know a lot
of you surf different breaks. I spend 99% of my time at one break.
It's home. It has a special culture, a history, stories, etc. It's
like the bar in Cheers - a place where everybody knows your name. We
all also know the names of rocks, the western gull that's built its
nest on the point the last 3 years yet hasn't had one chick survive
yet, the life cycle of all the exotic trees and plants around, not to
mention the whole ecosystem under water. It's good to have a place
that's special.
Joe mentioned the proliferation of surfing histories, and the people
who are dedicated to celebrating their own special place. It seems
there was a surf culture on the Island of Jersey, off the coast of
France, back in the 1920's. Who'dathunkit?
--
Turby the Turbosurfer
Mike Sullivan
"Turby" <turbo...@beach.comber> wrote in message
news:scvn35hgq14dckhja...@4ax.com...
> Since there is no surf, I went for a swim this morning. As I was
snip
> The conversation swung around to this place we call home. I know a lot
> of you surf different breaks. I spend 99% of my time at one break.
with great waves and roped off for the band of brothers,
why go anywhere else???
Turby
Well, for one, it doesn't have very good southern exposure.
For another, years ago, I was taught if you want to get good, you have
to surf a variety of waves.
--
Turby the Turbosurfer