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Swell came in much stronger than expected, with a firm north push. Not
good for macking Pipeline.
Volcom called the Pipe Pro on for today to get the contest started.
Good photo conditions with trades returning and pretty clear skies.
However, the swell was funky and big, many times rolling in from Third
Reef all the way through.
Was fortunate to get out without incident. The channel was spooky, but
the north peaks actually weren't top-to-bottom so they were pretty
easy to duck under.
Contestants were having a tough time finding good waves. There were
some serious nuggets, but they were hard to find and score. Some
serious beatings were being handed out, with Stephen Koehne slicing
open his inner thigh with his skeg.
Eventually, the outer reef sets were just getting too consistent, so I
made my way in. Had a tough time negotiating the inside rip and got
out well past the lifeguard tower.
Soon afterwards, they called the contest due to the size. Hopefully
it'll be a little more manageable tomorrow.