One ball, one bag, two shoes
electro...@hotmail.com
disheartened by the extreme emphasis on equipment that seems to have
crept into the sport at the league and even recreational levels. (I
don't know if it was ever any different at the pro level, I never
moved in those circles). So here's a simple and very possibly naive
question: does anyone bowl with just one ball anymore?
litefrozen
Sure there are. If your only bowling in one house, you could just have one ball and be competitive at a basic level..
I think if someone wanted a small arsenal and was only going to bowl at one house with maybe a city tournament
once in a while.
A small two ball arsenal would be better, it would give you a little flexability.
You'd have one ball that would cover the dry to medium condition's (which would also double as a spare ball)
and one that would cover the medium to oily condition's.
PromptJock
Yes, some people use one ball - usually a "low-hook" plastic or
urethane. These people also generally bowl in ONE CENTER.
If you happen to bowl in bowl in MULTIPLE centers, then it's
advantageous to have 2 or 3 balls (one of them being a plastic) to
handle the different oil patterns, etc.
In the "final examination", it's up to ** YOU ** to determine if you
want to use more than one ball. :)
John O
<electro...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b74fb202-a04e-4b9b...@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
I bowled in one league this year, carried three balls, but always ended up
back with the same one. When the house changed the pattern in January (went
from 10-10 to 7-7 and a few feet longer) I messed with a
moderately-aggressive particle ball, but wound up going back to the same
medium reactive. Threw a 300 with the ball early in the year on the first
pattern, and 299 later on the wider pattern with the same ball.
So yeah, if you pick a medium ball you can probably cover a lot of typical
conditions. Don't expect to play the same line with the same ball at
different houses though. Your ability to use one ball in many places is
directly dependent on your ability to adjust where you throw it on the lane
and how you release it.
-John O
GalaxyMan
See the new bowling balls soak up oil.
to keep up with the scoring pace you need new ones.
plus they crack.
also it is more of a science now days.
also the ball companies would go out of business if we still use
rubber ball bought in 1960
it is all in what you are out after.
me I am a competitive bowler.
If you don't want to be a competitive bowler and only want to bowl
once a week and drink beer
than you except the fact that you are going to suffer in scoring
because others by new bowling balls.
and some center you only need 1 ball I bowl in a few different
centers.
one of which I used the same ball for about 1 1/2 years a synthetic
center with a very good surface.
now other wood centers or other centers that change the shot.
you will dye if you have the wrong ball.
here is a articles on How to Start a Basic Arsenal of Bowling Balls
----- http://bowlingballgalaxy.com/bowling-ball-arsenal.html
I'm Sorry I know a lot get upset about all the bowling balls cause
they don't want to pay for scoring but its the way it is now.
John O
Green with envy.
;-)
-John O
Polarhound
Welcome to the Buy-A-Shot Age.
Have a Fruit Roll-Up!
electro...@hotmail.com
wrote:
> Welcome to the Buy-A-Shot Age.
>
> Have a Fruit Roll-Up!
Nah... The more people tell me I need to "get with the times" and buy
a reactive ball, the more determined I become to learn how to bowl
well using only a plastic ball. I guess you could say I'm a born
contrarian.
John O
<electro...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3875663a-1924-489c...@f36g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
__________________________
Well, the lanes, they are oiled for reactive balls and there's no going
back. Throw plastic all you like, and you'll get *really* accurate in the
process, but you're unlikely to win any money. :-)
-John O
electro...@hotmail.com
wrote:
> Well, the lanes, they are oiled for reactive balls and there's no going
> back. Throw plastic all you like, and you'll get *really* accurate in the
> process, but you're unlikely to win any money. :-)
>
> -John O
But what about the "conventional wisdom", i.e., plastic does pretty
much the same thing on wet, dry or indifferent lane conditions?
John O
<electro...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b1b66c2e-48d0-4192...@y21g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
_________________________
There aren't enough situations where plastic is better than reactive as a
primary ball choice.
-John O
PromptJock
> much the same thing on wet, dry or indifferent lane conditions?
Yes and no. There are times when a plastic WILL "bend" like a
reactive (i.e., when you need to nail that 10 pin for a trophy and it
curves to the inside! ;) ). However, "for the most part", a plastic
will tend to go straight.
FWIW, you can "go reactive" without spending a lot. The Brunswick
"Power Groove" is an excellent "entry-level" reactive and, when
delivered well, can actually OUT-PERFORM a "high-priced" reactive/
particle on a Typical House Shot. Your ball driller can watch you
deliver a few shots and (if he/she is "worth his/her salt") drill one
up that'll Get The Most out of your delivery, etc.
Whatever you decide - NEVER, EVER ditch the Venerable Plastic as it's
best used for killing single-pin spares. :)
electro...@hotmail.com
> FWIW, you can "go reactive" without spending a lot. The Brunswick
> "Power Groove" is an excellent "entry-level" reactive and, when
> delivered well, can actually OUT-PERFORM a "high-priced" reactive/
> particle on a Typical House Shot. Your ball driller can watch you
> deliver a few shots and (if he/she is "worth his/her salt") drill one
> up that'll Get The Most out of your delivery, etc.
>
> Whatever you decide - NEVER, EVER ditch the Venerable Plastic as it's
> best used for killing single-pin spares. :)
I don't want to buy new Brunswick products since I'm annoyed at them
for exporting jobs. What do you think of the Columbia Scout?
Polarhound
I use my OOB Gamebreaker for corner pins.
Proper finger positioning can make a ball act like almost any other
coverstock.
PromptJock
> for exporting jobs. What do you think of the Columbia Scout?
The Scout/R is a good, inexpensive, "entry-level" reactive that should
give you more "bend" than a plastic, but not get too "out of hand".
According to Columbia, it's designed for "dry" conditions (i.e., light
oil or playing outside the 10 board).
Another one to maybe consider is the "Jazz" - it looks like it's
designed for Typical House Shots (medium to dry oiling). It appears
to have more "bend" than the Scout/R, and it's only $20 (or so) more
in price.
Either ball will give you reactive "action", especially if all you've
ever used are rubber or plastic balls, and won't seriously "drain" the
wallet. Again, I strongly suggest having your preferred driller watch
your "style" and let him/her suggest which ball ("Scout/R" or "Jazz")
will suit you best.
Question: is your current ball drilled CONVENTIONALLY or FINGERTIP?
you might also want to change to fingertip if you've never done so as
that'll definitely help you hook the ball (once you get used to the
feel - it's WAY DIFFERENT than conventional! :) ), especially if it
has a "grabby" cover (a.k.a. reactives). This is where a good coach
can help as well. :)
Hope this helps, good luck, and please keep us apprised of your
"progress, etc." :)
P.S. as Polarhound remarked, HAND/FINGER POSITION @ release will
contribute to a balls hook, regardless of the cover...
electro...@hotmail.com
> Question: is your current ball drilled CONVENTIONALLY or FINGERTIP?
> you might also want to change to fingertip if you've never done so as
> that'll definitely help you hook the ball (once you get used to the
> feel - it's WAY DIFFERENT than conventional! :) ), especially if it
> has a "grabby" cover (a.k.a. reactives). This is where a good coach
> can help as well. :)
Ah! I'm glad you brought this up. My ball is drilled conventional, and
I was just wondering about this yesterday... With conventional grip,
is it normal to have to squeeze the ball a little to keep from
dropping it? Most of what I read says that the ball should stay on
your hand with no gripping, but it seems most of the literature is
aimed toward more "advanced" bowlers (who generally use fingertip). My
ball was fitted and drilled by a qualified pro; I don't have to
squeeze it hard, but if I let my hand *totally* relax, it feels like
the ball could fall off. I tried one piece of tape in the thumbhole,
but then it's too snug (hangs up on release).
> Hope this helps, good luck, and please keep us apprised of your
> "progress, etc." :)
Thanks!
> P.S. as Polarhound remarked, HAND/FINGER POSITION @ release will
> contribute to a balls hook, regardless of the cover...
I have a lot to learn about that. At this early point in my
development, I can only throw a straight ball with any sort of
success. If I deviate from that hand position (palm up, hand parallel
to the floor, fingers pointing at pins) then the results tend to be
tragi-comic.
PromptJock
> I was just wondering about this yesterday... With conventional grip,
> is it normal to have to squeeze the ball a little to keep from
> dropping it? Most of what I read says that the ball should stay on
> your hand with no gripping, but it seems most of the literature is
> aimed toward more "advanced" bowlers (who generally use fingertip). My
> ball was fitted and drilled by a qualified pro; I don't have to
> squeeze it hard, but if I let my hand *totally* relax, it feels like
> the ball could fall off. I tried one piece of tape in the thumbhole,
> but then it's too snug (hangs up on release).
If you have to "squeeze" the ball (i.e., contract the hand muscles),
then your ball isn't:
1) Drilled "correctly" - it's not properly fitted to the hand (span
too short, etc.)
2) The thumb hole has TOO MUCH "reverse pitch"
3) The thumb hole is Plain Too Big!
As you remarked, if you put your hand in the ball (make sure it's
comfortable, etc.) and then just "let the ball hang", it should Just
Stay There with the FINGERS being the main "support" of the ball and
not Just Fall Off. If you TOTALLY RELAX your hand, however, the ball
should then "ooze" off the hand - falling off the THUMB first, then
"roll" off the fingers. This is valid regardless of whether it's
drilled conventionally or fingertip.
I suggest visiting www.bowl4fun.com and read/download Ron Clifton's
"Bowling Tips" articles, especially the ones on "Ball Fit". You'll
learn a lot from those articles...
FWIW, I'm a firm believer of having the thumb hole drilled when your
thumb is "the largest it's gonna get" (IOW, in its' "swelled" state).
This way, you use the tape to "snug it up" when the thum isn't
"swelled-up". I advocate putting a SINGLE WHITE (textured) piece up
front so it sits under the thumb pad (for "grip). If that's too
"grippy", use a piece of black "Donkee" brand tape instead (it's
THICKER than standard black tape and it has some "texture" to it).
Then, you use the regular black tape to fill-in the BACK OF THE HOLE
so your thumb stays straight. If you search the forum a year or so
back, you'll find a posting on how I "layer" the tape in the back.
A good test of "release freedom" is to place your ball in the ball
return then stand to the side as though you're going to "deliver" the
ball. Place your hand in the ball then "rotate" the hand into the
"release" position (i.e., fingers under the ball, thumb in the ball,
etc.) with the ball STILL SITTING ON THE RETURN. Your arm should be,
more or less, straight down - if necessary, stand up a little so your
arm stretches out. Now, "lift" your hand STRAIGHT UP like you're
pulling the starting cord of a lawn mower engine. Your thumb should
"pop" out of the ball, the fingers then "liftting" the ball causing it
to rotate, then the fingers should pop out of the holes and the ball
shoud "travel" down the ball return, spinning/rolling as it goes. It
won't go very far or fast, but at least you'll get the "look and feel"
of what the release should do for the ball. I'm sorry I don't have
any video of this "exercise" (maybe I should make one? :) ).
One thing about this "drill" is you can then CHANGE HAND POSITIONS
(i.e., finger direction, etc.) and immediately see how the ball reacts
with the hand "on the side" vs "up the back". If you put a piece of
WHITE tape between the thumb and fingers you can actually see what
"side roll" is.
Again, a good coach can show you these things. :)
> I have a lot to learn about that. At this early point in my
> development, I can only throw a straight ball with any sort of
> success. If I deviate from that hand position (palm up, hand parallel
> to the floor, fingers pointing at pins) then the results tend to be
> tragi-comic.
Don't sweat it! once you get the hang of the "feel" from the "drill"
above, you'll start to get the idea. Just remember to always keep the
ball and arm moving FORWARD when the ball releases!
Good luck and, again, I hope what I posted helps a little. :)
2bow...@gmail.com
> So here's a simple and very possibly naive
> question: does anyone bowl with just one ball anymore?
Yes. However they are not what one would call "competitive" players.
That said, a reasonably talented house bowler could still do fine with
one ball. In essence, I use one ball at a time in league for about 4-6
weeks at a time. Usually I switch because I'm testing a new piece or
just varying the balls to play with different reactions.
If I were to go the one ball route and didn't want to worry about
equipment wearing out then I would look for a non-reactive urethane
ball with a decent core. For example a blue hammer, black Turbo, black
Phantom, etc. You will give up some hook potential but a decent player
can make plain jane urethane play reasonably well for strikes and it's
easy to throw straight for spares.
So, where do you find one of these old balls? Used. Lots of folks
have them gathering dust. Plug, resurface and redrill and they are
fine.
Mark
GalaxyMan
I noticed lane #1 still has a urathane ball on there website
PromptJock
Check out these current "straight" urethane offerings:
http://www.stormbowling.com/products/balls/ball.asp?ballid=274
http://www.bowling.com/products/amf-angle-urethane-black.htm
http://www.bowling.com/products/brunswick-groove-urethane-dark-blue-light-blue.htm
This is the Lane #1 offering: http://lane1bowling.com/balls/liberator.html
Anyhoo, these are the ones I currently found that you can get new.
Just remember that, while these balls won't soak-up oil like
reactives, you still need to KEEP THEM CLEAN by periodically removing
oil/dirt buildup with a good cleaner (i.e., windex).
Happy ball hunting, etc. :)
2bow...@gmail.com
> > I noticed lane #1 still has a urathane ball on there website
>
> Check out these current "straight" urethane offerings:http://www.stormbowling.com/products/balls/ball.asp?ballid=274http://www.bowling.com/products/amf-angle-urethane-black.htmhttp://www.bowling.com/products/brunswick-groove-urethane-dark-blue-
Pretty sure the Tour Block was an Asia only release. Still, there are
choices out there in plain urethane for folks that don't want to deal
with resin equipment. Just look for something with a decent part. For
example and older hammer with the grenade or the Lane#1 with the
diamond part.
Fun thread, makes me want to throw one ball all summer :)
Mark
electro...@hotmail.com
> Fun thread, makes me want to throw one ball all summer :)
Do it! Let's stop the madness!
Seriously: not long after deciding to take up this game again, I saw a
kid, about ten years old, show up to practice with a multi-ball
roller. He threw hard with a big hook (dumped in the channel a couple
of times) while his dad looked on approvingly. I didn't seen him throw
a single straight shot, even at single-pin spares. That's when I knew
that the "modern" game of bowling was not for me. Sure, back in my kid-
bowler days we all loved Mark Roth and his power game, but he was
throwing plastic just like all of us punks on Saturday morning league.
The magic was in the HANDS, baby! :) (And besides, his "big hook" of
the 1970s looks almost like a straight ball nowadays).
Modern balls may give me higher scores on modern conditions. But I
already have a day job, and it pays well, so I don't need to get
anything out of bowling outside of fun and personal satisfaction. I
loved bowling in the '70s, and that's still the game I want to play
now. I'm also the guy who ignores the video games and heads straight
for the pinball machines when I'm in an arcade, so there ya go.
If there were any of those so-called "White Dot leagues" around me,
I'd be all over it.
2bow...@gmail.com
> On May 22, 3:51 pm, 2bowl...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> > Fun thread, makes me want to throw one ball all summer :)
>
> Do it! Let's stop the madness!
I agree - single ball leagues are a lot of fun and it would be a blast
to do one with plastic on short oil. Never get anyone to do such a
league but it'd be a real hoot to flip the clock back for a summer
league.
Mark
Dave Allen
times (like every week ) that I think some of the regular league high
rollres should see these people./
They have health problems ,aside from general old age I feel like a
kid and I am 73. I took up bowing somewhere around 30 years ago as I
felt it was something I could do
forever and it certainly looks like I was right. Moreover these older
people bowl at least as well as I do and they seem to have more fun
than winter money leagues.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **
electro...@hotmail.com
That's one of the things that appeals to me about bowling: anyone
(male, female, young, old, healthy or otherwise) who can contrive to
roll the ball down the lane can be competitive if they put in the
effort.
If you take care of yourself and make the necessary adjustments as you
age, you can bowl for your whole life.