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ASP General FAQ 2.26.12
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Allen Lloyd
Feb 26, 2012, 5:26:05 AM2/26/12
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ASP Frequently Asked Questions
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This FAQ concerns information about pipes, tobacco, and pipe smoking.
This is a dynamic document subject to change. If you have an
addition, revision, or deletion that you think needs to be taken, post
your thoughts on this thread. The FAQ's will be posted weekly. The
source of this FAQ is from an archived version dated about February
2005.
Visit the ASP website at http://www.aspipes.com/ for a version that is
easier to read and print.
ASP Frequently Asked Questions
1. General.
1.1 Introduction.
1.2 Posting Guidelines.
1.3 What should I do when I see an "inappropriate" post?
2. Beginning Pipe Smoking.
2.1 How should I select my first pipe?
2.2 How should I select my first tobacco?
2.3 How should I store my tobacco?
2.4 How do I "break in" a pipe?
2.5 How should I "pack" my pipe?
2.6 How should I light my pipe?
2.7 How do I keep my pipe lit?
2.8 How should I clean my pipe?
2.9 Why is my tongue "charred"?
2.10 Why is my pipe "gurgling"?
3. "Advanced" Topics.
3.1 How should I ream my pipe?
3.2 What can I do when my pipe "turns sour"?
3.3 How can I fix a loose stem?
3.4 What should I do with a stem that's too tight?
3.5 How should I polish my stems?
3.6 How should I care for my meerschaum?
3.7 Why do people buy expensive pipes?
3.8 Is pipe smoking bad for me?
3.9 Should I store my pipe with a cleaner in the stem?
3.10 How do I smoke "flake tobaccos"?
3.11 Does tobacco improve with age?
3.12 How many pipes do I need?
3.13 Can I make my own pipes?
4. Pipe Resources on the 'Net.
5. Acknowledgments, Etc.
1. General.
1.1 Introduction.
This is the alt.smokers.pipes Frequently Asked Questions document. Its
purpose is to provide an introduction to the newsgroup and present
some general information on the Fine Art of Pipe Smoking. Please keep
in mind that pipe smoking is indeed an art and not a science. There is
no "wrong" way to smoke a pipe, just as there is no single "right"
way. You will not learn how to smoke a pipe by reading this FAQ, or by
reading anything else for that matter. You can only learn to smoke a
pipe by actually doing so. The suggestions here are just that; your
mileage may vary. The key is to relax and enjoy yourself. If your
technique works for you, then it's right!
This FAQ will be posted biweekly to alt.smokers.pipes, and is archived
at:
http://www.aspipes.com
Requests for clarification or expansion of specific points should be
posted to alt.smokers.pipes. You are to be congratulated, by the way,
for reading the FAQ before asking your question.
1.2 Posting Guidelines
(AKA "Keeping our Newsgroup Clean").
You are welcome to post to alt.smokers.pipes; however, you should
probably read the newsgroup for a while (a week or two, perhaps), just
to get a feel for the newsgroup before posting your first article. If
you're new to USENET, or to the Internet in general, you'll certainly
want to take a look at the documents posted to the newsgroup
"news.announce.newusers," and you might want to visit some of the
sites listed below:
AOL's USENET "netiquette" (Internet etiquette) guide:
http://webmaster.info.aol.com/netiquette/usenet/
RFC1855, a comprehensive list of "Netiquette Guidelines":
http://www.aspipes.org/faq/rfc/rfc1855.html
"Net Lingo" (commonly used terms on the Internet):
http://www.netlingo.com/
Just about anything related to pipe smoking is welcome on
alt.smokers.pipes. That includes, but is not limited to, discussions
of the merits of specific pipes and pipe manufacturers, tobaccos,
tobacco manufacturers and tobacco suppliers, pipe related esoterica,
etc. We are, of course, a group dedicated to tobacco smoking. Other
smoking substances have their own groups and venues and we would
encourage you to go there to discuss them.
Commercial advertising is not forbidden, but vendors are asked to
exercise restraint. It is the majority opinion that brief, periodic
(i.e. once or twice a month) notices from pipe and tobacco vendors who
maintain a continuous presence on the 'Net are acceptable; such
announcements should consist of a *brief* introduction and a URL where
the reader may find additional information. It is also requested that
"[AD]" be included in the subject line, to designate the article as a
commercial advertisement. Buy/sell/trade lists from private
individuals are also acceptable, in moderation. NOTE: if you are in
the practice of selling pipes on a continuous or semi-continuous
basis, then you should consider yourself a commercial vendor and
follow the appropriate guidelines, even if this is not your primary
source of income. Advertisements for items up for auction on eBay,
etc. are considered to be commercial, as well. Posts of an informative
nature by individuals not directly connected to a commercial concern
do not fall into the commercial category. This is a fairly liberal
policy; please don't abuse it.
Binary messages should not be posted to alt.smokers.pipes. (For those
who don't know what this means, a "binary" is any file that is not
plain ASCII and includes, but is not limited to, .gifs, .jpgs, .zip'd
or otherwise compressed files, and word processor documents.) In fact,
binary messages are not permitted in any discussion group unless
specifically allowed by the charter. The members of ASP have decided
that binaries are not appropriate for this group. This decision was
made after long debate and a public vote; please observe it. There is
an "alt.binaries.*" hierarchy, and any binaries should be posted
there. Unfortunately, the binary groups are not available from all
ISPs. In that case the binary file should be placed at some web or ftp
site. In any event, announcements such as "I've placed xxx at yyy,
please take a look at it" are appropriate to post in
alt.smokers.pipes.
Please do not post articles in HTML format. Many people (myself
included) choose not use HTML-capable newsreaders, and HTML tags make
messages very difficult to read.
Political discussions are tolerated on the group, so long as they
relate directly to pipe smoking and pipe smoking issues. Just do your
best to be reasonably polite to the opposition when discussing these
emotionally-charged issues.
"Meta-discussions", or discussions about the group itself, are common
on ASP. These threads are important in helping people let off steam,
but they often lead to long, bitter debates. When in doubt, consider
starting a meta-discussion a bad idea. To help avoid them, be aware
that too much off-topic posting is the biggest complaint in these
threads.
Cross-posting to more than one group is a bad habit, although the
consensus seems to be that this is not a breach of 'Net etiquette
until the number of groups becomes too large (whatever that means).
The problem is that follow-ups to that message are also posted to each
group and huge snowballing flame wars erupt and rage interminably.
These flame wars are of no interest to the thousands of people who
read the victim groups. Before you post a response to a message,
please check the headers to see if the original message was
cross-posted. When following-up to a cross-posted message, always try
to edit the header and post only to the group you actually read.
Readers of the other groups will, sadly, miss your contributed wisdom.
Finally, we take great pride in the fact that ASP is one of the most
civil USENET newsgroups. While intelligent debate is perfectly
acceptable, flames and personal attacks are not. We're all human, and
tempers will inevitably flare, but please think twice before posting a
response in the heat of the moment. When in doubt, take it to e-mail.
With all of the above stated, it is admitted that off topic posts can
and will be made. Although not encouraged, it is recognized that there
is a social aspect of ASP that many posters find desirable. Off topic
posts should be made with restraint and preceded with the "[OT]"
prefix in the header.
1.3 What Should I Do When I See
An "Inappropriate" Post?
First, DO NOT POST A FOLLOW-UP TO THE GROUP. Let me say that one more
time. DO NOT POST A FOLLOW-UP TO THE GROUP. This merely contributes to
the problem. Examples of inappropriate posts and suggested responses
are listed below.
TROLLS. "Trolls" are messages from people who derive perverse pleasure
from driving others to anger. Often, these people will make a brief,
inflammatory statement and sit back to watch the sparks fly. How do
you know if a message is a troll? If you think it might be, it
probably is. RESPONSE: Ignore them completely. If you simply MUST
respond, do it privately, via e-mail.
WRONG GROUP. Occasionally someone will make an honest mistake and post
a message to the wrong group. Most people don't take the time to read
FAQs, so they may be ignorant of what is considered appropriate for a
specific group. A "wrong group" post can also result from a response
to a cross-posted message. RESPONSE: Send an e-mail politely directing
them to the appropriate group. Some relevant examples are listed
below:
cigar smoking alt.smokers.cigars
general smokers' issues alt.smokers
non-smokers' issues alt.support.non-smokers
quitting smoking alt.support.stop-smoking
drugs (legal and otherwise) alt.drugs.*
BINARIES. (See "posting guidelines" above.) RESPONSE: Politely ask the
offender via e-mail not to do this, perhaps including a copy of the
relevant portion of this FAQ.
FREQUENT REQUESTS. These are not inappropriate per se, but they do
increase traffic and are a burden for those who would like to help
newcomers and others just looking for information. RESPONSE: Direct
them to this FAQ or to one of the many sources of information
available on the Internet.
SPAMs. These are messages posted to a large number of groups, which
the offender DOES NOT READ, often advertising a marginally legal
method to "MAKE MONEY FAST." (Use of the word "SPAM" in this context,
by the way, is derived from a Monty Python comedy skit.) The people
who post these sorts of messages are the scum of the earth. USENET was
designed on the "honor system," and some people have none. RESPONSE:
IT IS POINTLESS TO REPLY to the message by posting to the newsgroup;
the offender will never see your reply. If you want to reply privately
by e-mail, that is your business. Be aware that many such messages
have bogus return addresses so that you cannot reply. The best way to
complain is to send e-mail to the postmaster at the offender's site.
Again, because the sender's address may be bogus, you have to inspect
the headers to see where it is really coming from. Even those headers
may be forged. Copy the entire message, including all of the headers,
and send it to the site's postmaster, with a brief introductory note.
There are several newsgroups in the "news.admin.net-abuse.*" hierarchy
for news of and comment on these abuses. Some other useful resources
are listed below.
Net Abuse FAQ:
http://www.cybernothing.org/faqs/
net-abuse-faq.html
alt.spam FAQ (how to find the origin of a fake post or e-mail):
http://digital.net/~gandalf/spamfaq.html
TEST MESSAGES. Messages of the form "Test, don't read, please ignore"
are not appropriate in any discussion group. The response to these
should be the same as that for "wrong group" posts. If you need to
test your newsreader, there is a group, alt.test, specifically for
that purpose. In fact, many geographic domains maintain *.test
newsgroups, and it is recommended that you use the one "closest" to
you. NOTE: Many automatic mailers watch alt.test and will bombard you
with copies of your test message. To avoid that, include the word
"ignore" anywhere in your "Subject:" line. If you simply *MUST* post a
message to ASP to test your newsreader, then at least take the time to
say something about pipes.
2. Beginning Pipe Smoking.
2.1 How Should I Select My First Pipe?
The short answer: "Pick one you like." If you need more guidance than
that, keep reading.
MATERIAL. For your first pipe, you'll probably want one made of briar.
"Briar" is wood from the burl (that portion between the root and the
trunk) of the white heath (Erica arborea), a small tree or bush that
grows in the Mediterranean region. Briar is durable, heat- resistant,
and pleasing in appearance. There are other materials-- such as clay,
meerschaum, and porcelain--that are also used to make pipes, but these
materials are fragile and lack the smoking characteristics and ease of
use of briar. Corncob pipes are the least expensive option for a first
pipe, and they are a viable alternative to briar; however, they often
have very small bowls (the bowl is the part of the pipe that holds the
tobacco) and brittle plastic stems (the part that you place in your
mouth) that are quite easy to bite through. Most briar pipes have
stems made of vulcanite (rubber) or lucite (acrylic); either material
works fine, and stem material is purely a matter of personal choice.
Vulcanite is softer, which many find more comfortable, but lucite is
more durable and resists oxidation.
PRICE. Pipes range in price from a couple of dollars to several
thousand; it is recommended that you stay closer to the lower end of
this range for your first pipe. By purchasing a moderately-priced
pipe, you will not be out a large sum if you determine that pipe
smoking isn't for you. A reasonably good quality "basket pipe" (so
called because most tobacconists keep their lower-priced, "no-name"
pipes in an open basket near the sales counter) can be had for as
little as $15, and many "name brand" manufacturers produce pipes in
the $35-60 range. You'll probably want to avoid very small pipes, as
they tend to smoke hot, and very large ones, as they are often harder
for a novice to keep lit and may hold too much tobacco for to
comfortably finish initially. Try not to purchase one of those pipes
you may find in plastic bubble packaging at your local discount store
if you can avoid it; instead, seek out a good tobacconist and ask for
his or her recommendation. Not only will this give you a broader
selection from which to choose, but the tobacconist is likely to have
some good advice on how to get started. Don't be afraid to tell the
shop owner that you're a novice. He or she will figure this out pretty
quickly on their own anyway, and it is in their own best interest to
help you select a pipe and tobacco that they think you'll enjoy. If
you don't know where to find a reputable tobacconist, check the Pipes
Digest Resource Guide at:
http://www.pipes.org/resource_guide.html
or the ASP Home Page at:
http://www.aspipes.org/
or ask the newsgroup for a recommendation. While you're buying the
pipe, pick up a package of pipe cleaners (the soft, cotton ones are
best for most purposes), and a cheap "pipe tool" or "tamper"; you'll
need them.
FILTERS. You should not be inhaling smoke, so a filter is, in the
opinion of many, superfluous. One major drawback to most filtering
systems is that they tend to affect the taste of the tobacco--for the
worse--if not kept meticulously clean. With that said, in some parts
of the world, particularly central Europe, pipe filters are quite
common. Many of the pipes sold there have a cavity in the shank (that
part of the pipe that connects the bowl to the stem) designed to
accomodate 9mm filters. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a
filter in your pipe. If you prefer filters, then by all means use
them. Nevertheless, you don't need them.
SHAPE. This is purely a matter of personal taste. Many pipe smokers
prefer pipes that are bent, as they "hang" easier, putting less strain
on the teeth and jaw. Personally, I prefer straight- stemmed pipes,
predominately for aesthetic reasons, but also because it is easier to
insert a pipe cleaner to absorb the condensate that occasionally
collects in the shank while smoking. For a detailed study of pipe
shapes and pipe anatomy, see The alt.smokers.pipes home page guide at:
http://www.aspipes.org/shapes/shapes.html
or The OoOPS Guide to Indentifying Pipes at:
http://www.fujipub.com/ooops/pipeshap.html
SECONDS. A true "second" is a pipe that has some kind of flaw (which
is almost always cosmetic in nature) and is therefore not deemed
worthy to carry the manufacturer's usual brand name. Typically, such
pipes are simply stamped "Imported Briar," or something similar;
however, some manufacturers have distinctive stampings for their
cosmetically-challenged pipes (such as Peterson's "Irish Seconds").
You can find some very good pipes at a reduced price because they have
surface flaws--pits, putty "fills" in the briar, imperfect carving,
etc.--that do not affect the way they smoke at all. Many of the
inexpensive pipes that you will find at your tobacconist (to include
"basket pipes" and most "house brands") are "seconds" of one sort or
another.
ESTATE PIPES. In the pipe smoking community, "estate" is a euphemism
for "used." By buying an estate pipe, it is possible to get a high
quality pipe for much less than it would cost new. (It is also
possible to buy a piece of junk at a greatly inflated price, so caveat
emptor applies.) While these pipes are usually thoroughly cleaned
before they are sold, some people are appalled at the idea of smoking
a pipe that was smoked by someone else; I wonder if these people bring
their own silverware to restaurants. It should be noted that the
previous owner's smoking habits will have at least a minor affect on
the taste the pipe will impart to tobacco.
2.2 How Should I Select My First Tobacco?
This question lends itself to the short answer given in section 2.1
above. If you have had experience with only cigarettes and cigars,
you're in for a real treat. The variety of pipe tobaccos is positively
staggering, and the flavor of a blend is influenced not only by its
component tobaccos, but also by myriad other factors such as the style
of cut and the pipe used to smoke it. The only way to determine which
sort of tobacco is right for you is to try a number of very different
blends to decide which general type you like, and then proceed from
there. Some of us are constantly searching for the perfect blend,
affectionately known as "The Holy Grail."
"DRUGSTORE" TOBACCOS. Generally, you will be better off purchasing
your tobacco from a tobacconist. Many of the commonly available blends
found in discount stores or supermakets are made from lower quality
tobacco, and the additives with which they are laced for preservation
and "taste enhancement" alter the way a tobacco smokes, usually for
the worse. Of course, there is no harm at all in sampling these
tobaccos; you may discover that one such blend is just your cup of
tea. Most "drugstore blends" have been around for decades, so they
must have something going for them.
AROMATICS VS. NON-AROMATICS. These are the two broadest subdivisions
of pipe tobaccos. As a general rule, most beginning smokers tend to go
for an "aromatic" tobacco, which has been "cased" or "topped" with
flavorings such as vanilla, cherry, etc., while those converting from
cigars or cigarettes often prefer an "non-aromatic" or "natural"
tobacco.
AROMATICS. A good aromatic tobacco is lightly topped with a natural
flavoring. Aromatics tend to be more moist than non-aromatics, which
can lead to problems smoking them. These problems can be avoided if
care is taken in the preparation of the tobacco and in the pack of the
pipe.
NON-AROMATICS. These are tobaccos that contain no flavored additives;
in fact, a good non-aromatic blend will contain no additives
whatsoever, other than perhaps a bit of water. [SIDE NOTE: You may see
the word "English" used as a descriptor for non-aromatic or natural
blends. To some purists, an English blend contains only Virginias and
latakia (described below), and the term is used in a broad sense by
some to refer to almost any unflavored tobacco (at one time, British
law prohibited adulterants in tobacco). Typically, however, the term
is used to describe a non-aromatic blend that contains latakia.]
COMMON TYPES OF TOBACCO.
BURLEY. A low-sugar, high nicotine, slow-burning tobacco with a very
subtle flavor, burley is often used as a base for aromatics or to
modify the burning characteristics of a blend.
CAVENDISH. A term with a variety of meanings. Generally, a cavendish
is "sweetened" in some way, either by a processing technique or by
additives, or both.
LATAKIA. A "spice" tobacco that is cured over the smoke of particular
types of wood. (You may read that it is cured over fires fueled by
dried camel dung, but this is not the case.) Latakia has a distinctive
"smoky" taste and a pungent aroma that some find very pleasant and
others find just the opposite. Latakia adds body and depth to the
flavor of many natural blends.
ORIENTALS. By definition, "Orientals" are those tobaccos indigenous to
the eastern Mediterranean region, including the various "Turkish"
tobaccos and latakia. An "Oriental blend" contains at least one and
often several of these tobaccos.
PERIQUE. Another "spice" tobacco grown only in St. James Parish,
Louisiana. Perique is subjected to extreme pressure and is allowed to
ferment as it is cured, which results in a very distinctive tobacco.
TURKISH. Any of a number of tobaccos grown in numerous locales
throughout the eastern Mediterranean region. Common "Turkish"
varieties include Basma, Smyrna, Xanthi, Samsun, Izmir, Drama, and
Yenidje. Generally, these names are derived from the region in which
they are grown. Turkish tobaccos have a somewhat sweet, spicy flavor
that gives "body" to many blends.
VIRGINIA. Despite the name, Virginias are grown in numerous locales.
There are several varieties of Virginias, but all are characterized a
relatively high sugar content. Virginias are often used as the base
tobacco in blends, but they are smoked "straight" as well. Straight
Virginias undergo changes in flavor as they age, similar to fine
wines. Lighter in body than Oriental blends, they have a subtle
complexity of flavor that makes them a favorite of many experienced
smokers.
2.3 How Should I Store My Tobacco?
The moisture content of a tobacco affects the way it smokes and
tastes; a tobacco that is too moist or too dry will not offer a
pleasing smoke. One way to determine if your tobacco has the proper
level of moisture is the "pinch test." Take a pinch of your tobacco
and squeeze it tightly for a couple of seconds, then release it. If it
immediately starts to "unravel," your tobacco is in good shape. If it
stays in a tight clump, it is too wet. If it crumbles, it is too dry.
Tobacco purchased in tins should retain its moisture for several weeks
after opening. Blends purchased in "bulk," or tinned tobaccos that are
to be stored for many weeks or months after opening should be stored
in some type of container. Standard "ziplock" sandwich bags are not
airtight, and your tobacco will dry out over time if they are used for
storage. Similar bags designed for use in the freezer are better, but
still aren't completely satisfactory for anything other than
relatively short term storage. Some people advocate the use of
multiple bags in a Tupperware container, "Mason" jars, or heat-sealed,
vacuum-pack bags. All of these methods are satisfactory; however, I
prefer to use bail-top jars with rubber gaskets.
If your tobacco is too moist, you can leave the container open
slightly, while monitoring it closely. If your tobacco has dried out,
it is usually possible to revive it. (There is a point beyond which no
amount of re-moistening is going to restore the flavor of a tobacco,
but that time span is generally measured in months or years.) Some
advocate placing a slice of apple or potato in the tobacco container.
This will work, but if left too long, you run the risk of introducing
mold with this technique. Unlike cheese, the flavor of tobacco is not
improved by mold, and once your container has been so contaminated, it
is almost impossible to completely rid it of the mold spores that will
attempt to infest any tobacco placed in that container in the future.
A much safer method is to spray a tiny amount of water into the
container and reseal it for a day or two, or purchase a ceramic
humidifying disk from your tobacconist and place it in the storage
container.
2.4 How Do I "Break In" A Pipe?
The process of "breaking in" a pipe serves two functions. First, any
saps, resins, acids, stains, demons, or other nasty things that have
remained in the briar are driven out. Second, and most importantly, a
"cake"--the layer of charred residue that builds up inside the bowl as
tobacco is smoked in it--is developed. This cake protects the bowl of
the pipe from the heat of burning tobacco and prevents it from
"burning out." It should be noted that most of the information in this
section applies to briar pipes only. Most other pipes require no break
in period, or at most a very brief one. Additionally, one should not
allow a cake to build up in a meerschaum or clay, as this could cause
the bowl to crack.
It is important to smoke a new pipe slowly, to avoid damaging the
naked briar. Some recommend that a new pipe be filled only one-third
to one-half full for the first several smokes, after which the bowl
can be filled a little more with each smoke. To be honest, this
procedure is not necessary, but I always recommend it--and usually
practice it--because it is all too easy to damage a new pipe through
carelessness. Don't try to rush the break-in period, and don't be
overly concerned if a new pipe has a bitter taste. Some pipes break in
easier than others, and it is not uncommon for a pipe that is very
difficult to break in to mature into a great smoker.
Some pipes are sold with a bowl coating designed to protect the briar
until a cake is built up (sometimes such bowls are called "pre-
carbonized"). Many pipes, however, are not so treated. While a "naked"
bowl is not likely to be damaged so long as the pipe is smoked slowly,
many people advocate preparing the bowl interior of a new pipe. Some
recommend that the inside of the bowl be dampened with water to
protect the briar, while others recommend honey, or a mixture of honey
and water. Honey may help a cake form more quickly, but after trying
all of these techniques I find that these days I tend to use nothing
at all.
Finally, try not to smoke a new pipe outdoors if you can possibly
avoid it. Even a gentle breeze will cause the pipe to burn much hotter
than it would indoors, which can irreparably damage a briar that is
not protected by a cake. I've never had a problem smoking my pipes
outdoors (after they've been broken in, of course), but if you're
concerned about possible damage, you can purchase wind caps from your
tobacconist which will shield the burning tobacco from the effects of
wind.
2.5 How Should I "Pack" My Pipe?
A pipe must be packed properly to ensure a good smoke; unfortunately,
learning to do this takes time and practice. In fact, the art of
packing a pipe is the most difficult task associated with pipe
smoking, and this can be very frustrating for the beginner. I suspect
that most people who have given up on trying to learn to smoke a pipe
did so primarily because they couldn't master packing a bowl quickly
enough to suit them.
The most common technique for packing a pipe is the "three layer"
method. The objective is to end up with a bowl that is evenly packed
from top to bottom; this is done by packing each layer progressively
tighter. Trickle tobacco into the bowl until it is slightly overfull,
then press very lightly with your finger until the bowl appears half
full. Fill the pipe again and press down until the pipe is 2/3 to 3/4
full. Finally, overfill the pipe and press the top layer down fairly
firmly. When finished the tobacco should feel "springy" to the touch.
If it has no give at all, it's packed too tight. If a touch leaves an
indentation, it is packed too loosely. Finally, test the "draw" by
sucking air through the unlit pipe; the resistance should be about
like that felt when sipping a soft drink through a straw. If the draw
doesn't feel right, then empty the bowl and start over. A slightly
different touch must be used depending on the size of the bowl and the
cut and moisture level of the tobacco, but this will become second
nature with experience. In fact, you will undoubtedly develop your own
packing techniques with time, and you will find yourself loading your
pipe without even thinking about it.
If you find yourself frustrated by the fact that you simply can't get
the feel for packing your pipe, you might want to try a method
suggested by Mike Butera. Mike recommends chopping the tobacco,
reducing the ribbons into rectangles or squares about 1/4" long. The
bowl is then packed as described above. Some people have found that
this method can make the task of packing a bowl much easier.
2.6 How Should I Light My Pipe?
Barring such bizarre contraptions as parabolic mirrors, lasers, and
miniature blowtorches, there are three ways to light your pipe: with a
match, with a butane lighter, or with a fluid lighter (e.g. a
"Zippo").
The wooden match is the traditional pipe lighting device. Strike the
match and hold it for a second or two while the sulfur burns off.
Bring the match to the tobacco surface and, while puffing gently, move
the match around the tobacco in a slow, even circle.
Butane lighters are more convenient than matches, and, unlike fluid
lighters, there is less risk of imparting an unpleasant taste to your
tobacco. If you wish to use a butane lighter, then purchase one that
is designed for pipes. Such lighters have an angled gas outlet that
makes it easier to direct the flame into the bowl while avoiding
burned fingers.
Fluid lighters share the convenience feature of butane, and they
provide the only truly reliable means of lighting a pipe in a stiff
wind. Zippo makes a lighter designed for pipes that has a circular
hole in the chimney which is placed over the bowl while the flame is
"sucked" into the tobacco. Other types of fluid lighters may be used
as well, but their broad flame makes it all too easy to char the rim
of the pipe bowl. The primary disadvantage to fluid lighters is that
they can impart a slight taste to the tobacco. Some swear that this
can be prevented if one merely waits a few seconds after igniting the
lighter before lighting the tobacco. I can still taste (smell?) the
lighter fluid, however, and I prefer my tobacco sans naphtha.
2.7 How Do I Keep My Pipe Lit?
Don't be overly concerned if you have difficulty keeping your pipe lit
at first. It is not unusual for even experienced smokers to have to
re-light several times, especially toward the bottom of the bowl. Try
to relax and enjoy yourself--that is the whole point, after all.
You'll find it much easier to keep your pipe lit with practice.
CHARRING LIGHT. The best way to keep your pipe lit is to light it
correctly at the beginning. Most people light their pipe twice. Light
the pipe as described above and puff a half dozen times or so. Then
tamp the surface of the tobacco down with your pipe tool and re-light.
The first lighting, often called the "charring light," will char the
top of the tobacco and prepare this surface for the second lighting
which will, with practice, take you through most of the bowl.
TAMPING. While smoking, ash residue will form at the top of the
tobacco. This residue should be gently tamped down periodically during
the course of a smoke and prior to re-lighting. This tamping serves to
keep the tobacco--which expands as it burns--properly packed and
promotes even burning. If the pipe has an especially tall bowl, the
ash may sometimes become so thick that it is difficult to re-light the
tobacco below it. If this occurs, loosen the ash gently with your pipe
tool, dump the ash, tamp, and re-light.
SMOKING PACE. The pace at which you smoke (i.e. the rhythm at which
you puff your pipe) is very important. With practice and
experimentation you will achieve the perfect pace for you. The idea is
to puff frequently enough to keep the tobacco lit, but not so
frequently as to cause the pipe to burn too hot, which contributes to
tongue bite and may damage your pipe. If you can't hold the bowl of
your pipe comfortably in your hand, or if you can't hold the side of
the bowl against your face for more than a few seconds, then you're
smoking too fast. If this happens, set the pipe down for a few minutes
to cool, then re-light and start again. Someone once described the
perfect smoking pace as one where the pipe is always on the verge of
going out.
2.8 How Should I Clean My Pipe?
Your pipe should be cleaned after each smoke. To do this, first let
the pipe cool and then scoop or dump out any ash and "dottle"
(unburned tobacco that sometimes remains in the bottom of the bowl).
Do not bang the pipe against a hard surface, as this may result in a
cracked shank or broken stem. If you must, hold the bowl of the pipe
in one hand and strike the top of the bowl against the open palm of
the opposite hand. Once the bowl is empty, run a pipe cleaner through
the stem until it just enters the bowl and remove it. Repeat with
additional cleaners until they come out clean (many people, myself
included, will use both ends of a pipe cleaner before switching to a
new one). Finally, take one of the used cleaners, bend it into a "U"
shape, and wipe out the ash clinging to the sides of the bowl. [NOTE:
Some people prefer to leave the ash in the bowl, believing that it
promotes a good cake. If you like, try both ways and see what works
best for you.] Set the pipe aside to dry completely. *Ideally*, the
pipe should be allowed to "rest" for around 48 hours before smoking it
again, but you might have to forgo this luxury until you have enough
pipes to do so.
Periodically, you'll want to clean your pipe a bit more thoroughly. In
addition to the steps above, you'll also want to carefully remove the
stem from the shank and wipe out the "gunk" that collects in the
mortise; a cotton swab (e.g. a "Q-tip") works well for this task. Some
people also advocate periodic cleaning of the stem and shank with pipe
cleaners soaked in alcohol (preferably some form of grain alcohol),
particularly if the pipe begins to taste a bit musty or sour. Do not,
however, get alcohol anywhere near the bowl of a meerschaum pipe.
CAUTION! PAY ATTENTION HERE!! Never, ever, ever take the stem out of a
pipe while it is still hot. Allow the pipe to cool for at least an
hour before attempting to remove the stem. [I'm of the opinion that
you should let the pipe dry completely before removing the stem, as
well.] Repeatedly removing the stem from a hot pipe will result in a
loose stem at best, and you may even end up with a broken tenon or a
cracked shank. With that said, there are pipes that are designed to
have their stem removed while still hot. This sort of stem is called a
"military bit" or an "army mount," since pipes such as these were
originally designed for military men (I'm not being non-PC; there
simply weren't any military women in those days), who might have need
to stow their pipes on short notice. The stem's tenon on such a pipe
is tapered to provide a friction fit, and the shank is almost always
reinforced with a metal "cup" or band.
2.9 Why Is My Tongue "Charred"?
"Tongue bite," an intense burning sensation of the tongue, is an
unpleasant side effect often experienced by the new pipe smoker (it is
also experienced by non-newbies who take up the pipe again after a
period of abstinence). While irritating, it will usually go away after
a week or so of smoking. If you experience this problem for an
extended period, then you may be smoking a tobacco that's too moist,
you may have failed to pack the bowl properly, or you're smoking too
fast. Some tongue bite sufferers have also experienced relief by using
an oral rinse sold under the name "Biotene." It works for some; you
might want to try it.
2.10 Why Is My Pipe "Gurgling"?
This is caused by moisture collecting in the bottom of the bowl and/or
in the shank or stem. Possible causes of "gurgle" are:
Smoking too fast. Water vapor is a by-product of combustion, and rapid
smoking will produce large amounts of it, which will then condense in
the shank and stem.
Smoking a pipe that is not yet broken-in. I'm not certain if this
occurs because the briar has not dried completely, because there is no
cake, or "just because." Still, a new pipe will often smoke wet.
Smoking a tobacco that is too moist. This is self explanatory. In
addition, some tobaccos, particularly aromatics, tend to leave more
liquid residue than others.
Saliva in the pipe. Salivation is a normal response to smoking, and
this saliva can collect in the stem. Keep your tongue away from the
mouthpiece opening, and try to keep your mouth as dry as possible.
If your pipe begins to gurgle while smoking, run a pipe cleaner down
the stem to absorb the moisture. This can be a bit tricky with some
bent pipes, but it's usually possible if you put a small bend in the
end of the cleaner and rotate it "just right."
3. "Advanced" Topics.
This section addresses questions that may crop up once you have
mastered the basics. If you have a question that you think should be
added here, please let me know.
3.1 How Should I Ream My Pipe?
After a pipe has been smoked for a long time its cake may become so
thick that it significantly reduces the capacity of the bowl. In very
extreme cases, an overly thick cake may actually crack the bowl due to
differential expansion. Ideally, the cake should not exceed
one-sixteenth of an inch (about 1.5 mm) or so. When the cake exceeds
this thickness, it should be carefully reamed. Some pipe tools have a
blunt-pointed (to prevent gouging of the bowl bottom) knife blade for
this purpose. While these will work, it is very easy to trim the cake
unevenly or even inadvertently dig into bare wood. Numerous
adjustable, multibladed reamers are available commercially, and these
will do a much neater job. A favored tool for this task--suggested by
pipe maker extraordinaire JT Cooke--is nothing more than a series of
short wooden dowels of varying diameters that are wrapped with fine
grit emery cloth or sandpaper. Whatever device you choose to use, work
very slowly and carefully to prevent damage to your pipe. The idea is
to gradually shave the cake down to the proper thickness, not to
scrape it out in chunks. If you have more than the usual number of
thumbs, you might want to take the pipe to your tobacconist, who will
usually perform this task for a nominal fee.
3.2 What Can I Do When My Pipe "Turns Sour"?
A pipe, properly cared for, will probably outlast its owner.
Occasionally, however, a pipe may begin to taste bitter or "sour."
Sometimes this is caused by not allowing the pipe sufficient time to
"rest" between smokes; other times, no cause can be determined with
certainty. In any event, such a pipe can usually be rejuvenated by
applying the "Professor's Pipe-Sweetening Treatment," publicized by
Dennis Congos.
First, find some salt (non-iodized is preferred, but not essential),
some alcohol (preferably "Everclear," or some other form of near-pure,
non-denatured ethanol), and a place to rest your pipe in a
semi-upright position. Insert a pipe cleaner into the stem of the pipe
so that it extends into the shank. Fill the bowl to the rim with salt
and drip or carefully pour alcohol into the bowl until the salt is
just saturated. Try not to get any alcohol on the pipe's exterior, as
this may damage the finish; any spills should be wiped up immediately.
Leave the pipe alone for a day or two. After this time the salt will
have turned brown from the absorption of "tars" from the bowl.
Thoroughly clean all salt from the bowl and set the pipe aside
overnight to dry completely. Your pipe will now be revitalized, and
all traces of bitterness should be gone.
WARNING: Many people swear by this process, but the procedure is not
risk-free. Some people have had pipes crack after this treatment,
particularly when they allowed the salt and alcohol mixture to enter
the pipe's shank and/or when they left the mixture in the pipe for
several days. Any pipe with significant monetary or sentimental value
should be sent to a professional pipe repairperson.
3.3 How Can I Fix A Loose Stem?
Even if you're careful to never remove the stem from a hot pipe, you
may occasionally be faced with a loose stem. Often this problem will
fix itself with time, but if the stem is so loose that it is in danger
of falling out, then something must be done. The safest bet is to take
the pipe to a tobacconist or send it to a repairperson. These people
will have a great deal of practice performing this task, and they will
do it for a very modest fee. It is remarkably easy for an amateur to
crack a shank while attempting this repair, as many of us can sadly
attest.
Nevertheless, if you are determined to do this yourself, you must
first determine what sort of stem you have. If the stem is lucite, the
easiest fix is to apply a very thin layer of clear nail polish to the
tenon, allow this to dry *completely*, and then carefully sand the
tenon to fit. A vulcanite stem, on the other hand, is a bit more
complicated, as you will need to heat the tenon and expand it in some
way. There are a number of variations to this procedure, but the most
common one is described below.
First, remove the stem from the pipe and insert a pipe cleaner into
the stem so that it just reaches the end of the tenon (this is to
ensure that you don't collapse the air hole). Next, carefully heat the
tenon over a match for about five seconds (the intent is to soften the
vulcanite, not melt it). Then gently press the end of the tenon
against a flat surface, keeping the tenon as perpendicular to the
surface as possible, taking care not bend the tenon to one side or the
other. After the stem has cooled, test fit it. If the stem is still
too loose, repeat this procedure. If it is now too tight, then see
"What should I do with a stem that's too tight?" below. NOTE: It is
*very* easy to ruin a perfectly good pipe with this technique, and I
feel I should reiterate my earlier statement that this job is best
undertaken by a "professional."
A less radical (and *much* safer) procedure that has been recommended
to me by several people is to simply rub the stem's tenon against a
block of beeswax until the tenon is well coated. Once this is
complete, reinsert the stem. I am told that the joint will tighten
after a smoke or two.
3.4 What Should I Do With A Stem That's Too Tight?
If the stem is still inserted in the pipe and is so difficult to
remove that you fear your pipe may be damaged, then place the pipe in
the freezer for several minutes. This works the vast majority of the
time; however, if the stem still proves too difficult to remove, smoke
the pipe, allow it to cool, and try to remove the stem again. If
neither of these techniques work, then send the pipe to a reputable
repairperson.
If you do manage to remove the stem, place some sort of dry lubricant,
such as graphite (from a soft pencil) or wax, on the tenon and attempt
to reinsert the stem. If this does not provide satisfactory results,
you will need to remove a small amount of material from the tenon.
Wrap some very fine (400 grit or so) sandpaper or some "O" or finer
grade steel wool around the tenon and twist the stem gently. Work very
slowly and carefully, and check the fit frequently until it is
satisfactory.
3.5 How Should I Polish My Stems?
Vulcanite stems can oxidize, turning a disgusting brownish green
color. This is one case where "an ounce of prevention" definitely pays
off. Avoid exposing vulcanite stems to direct sunlight whenever
possible, and wipe off your stems after each use. When oxidation does
begin to form, it can often be removed with a mild abrasive, such as
baking soda or toothpaste. If the oxidation is too severe for this
treatment, jeweler's rouge or an automobile rubbing compound will
often do the trick. For truly stubborn stems more drastic measures may
be required. An overnight soak in household bleach will turn your
stems black again, but you should be careful to cover any stem logos
with a blob of petroleum jelly to protect them prior to soaking, and
you should be prepared to apply some elbow grease to polish the stem
surface, which will be roughened by this treatment.
Professionals (and "serious amateurs") remove oxidation with a buffing
wheel loaded with Tripoli or some similar abrasive and then apply
carnuba wax to protect the stem and bring out a high shine. If you
wish to use a buffing rig, consult with someone experienced in such
matters. It's all too easy to burn a stem on a buffing wheel running
at excessively high speed or, for that matter, to catapult a briar
into your face.
3.6 How Should I Care For My Meerschaum?
First, and most importantly, don't drop it. Meerschaum is fragile, and
it is very unlikely that your pipe will survive a dive to the kitchen
floor. Second, do not allow a cake to build in the bowl (firmly
swabbing out all the ash residue with a bent pipe cleaner after each
smoke should do the trick). If your pipe does start to build a cake,
then ream it out very carefully. Third, if your pipe has a screw-in
shank fitting (as most meerschaums do), twist the stem clockwise while
removing it; twisting counter-clockwise could unscrew the fitting, and
doing so repeatedly can strip the shank threads. Finally, meerschaum
is a very absorbent, inorganic material, and does not require the same
"rest period" that briars do. Still, I would at least allow the pipe
to cool and dry completely before loading up and smoking it again.
Many meerschaum aficionados claim that to insure proper "coloring" of
the bowl you should never hold the bowl with your bare hands while
smoking. This may be true, but I would much rather have a meerschaum
with an unevenly colored bowl than to have to go through the hassle of
holding my pipe by the stem or (horrors!) wearing kid gloves to smoke.
3.7 Why Do People Buy Expensive Pipes?
Good question. Will a $500 pipe smoke 10 times better than a $50 pipe?
Probably not. Does this mean the $500 pipe is a "poor value"? Not
necessarily.
Like most things in life, you generally get what you pay for when you
buy a pipe. A number of factors contribute to the price of a pipe, not
the least of which is the amount of time and energy expended in its
production. A machine can crank out a pipe in less than a minute, but
a craftsman may spend a day or more carving a single pipe, and such a
pipe is as much a work of art as it is a smoking instrument. Smoking
these sculptures in briar can provide tremendous pleasure, and many
people are willing to pay for the privilege.
On the other hand, many people are perfectly content to smoke
so-called "cheap" pipes. These people think that spending a large sum
of money on a hunk of wood that serves only to hold burning tobacco is
irresponsible, foolish, or both. These people do have a point, as it
is certainly possible to buy an inexpensive, machine-made pipe that
smokes perfectly well.
Like so many other aspects in this hobby, it all boils down to
personal preference. The important thing is to smoke what you like,
and don't get your nose out of joint if someone else's tastes differ
from yours.
3.8 Is Pipe Smoking Bad For Me?
Probably. How bad? The jury's still out. Pipe smoking is certainly the
safest form of tobacco use (with the possible exception of nasal
snuff). In fact, a review of the literature has led me to believe that
the risks are, for the most part, negligible, so long as one smokes in
moderation and does not inhale. This is not to say that pipe smoking
won't kill you, but it's less likely to do so than your automobile. I
must note that at least one study (the United States Surgeon General's
Report on Cigarette Smoking, 1964) found that pipe smokers live
*longer* than non-smokers. If this is true, I'm sure it's because pipe
smoking reduces stress, and because pipe smokers spend so much time
fiddling with their pipes that they have little time to participate in
more hazardous activities. Still, if you have a strong desire to live
forever, I suggest you forgo pipe smoking (and fried foods, and red
meat, breathing, etc.).
3.9 Should I Store My Pipe With A Cleaner In The Stem?
There are three schools of thought on this issue:
1) Those who do not leave a pipe cleaner in their pipe between smokes.
These people believe that doing so prevent their pipe from drying
quickly and or properly.
2) Those who do leave a pipe cleaner in their pipe between smokes.
These people believe that doing so assists in the absorption of nasty
stuff.
3) Those who compromise by leaving a pipe cleaner in their pipe for a
short period (usually overnight), then removing it to allow the pipe
to dry completely.
Personally, I belong to group #1 a about half the time. The rest of
the time I'm a #3, unless I forget to remove the pipe cleaner, in
which case I'm an accidental #2. Bottom line: It really doesn't
matter. Whatever works for you is fine.
3.10 How Do I Smoke "Flake Tobaccos"?
Flake tobaccos are those that have been pressed during processing into
a rectangular cake and then (usually after an aging period) sliced
into shingle-like "flakes" about a millimeter or so in thickness. Most
flake tobaccos are straight Virginias. Variations on this theme
include "sliced plug" (typically a flavored burley), "cut cake," "roll
cut" (which is spun into a sort of rope before being sliced into
discs, and which often has perique added to the base Virginias), as
well as "plugs" and "twists" (which are sliced by the consumer after
purchase).
Most flake tobaccos and their kin should be prepared prior to smoking;
this process is known as "rubbing out" the tobacco. The traditional
technique for doing this is to place the number of flakes sufficient
to fill the pipe in the palm of one hand; then rub both palms together
over a cloth or a sheet of paper. An alternate technique is to pinch
the flakes apart with the fingertips; I usually use a combination of
these two methods to reduce the flakes to the proper consistency. The
degree to which the flakes are rubbed out will determine the tobacco's
burning characteristics and taste. The more the flake is rubbed out,
the faster and easier the tobacco will burn. If you tend to smoke
overly fast, or if you intend to smoke outdoors, you might wish to rub
the flakes out less. As with most things related to pipe smoking, the
key is practice and experience.
3.11 Does Tobacco Improve With Age?
The answer is a qualified "yes." The stuff you'll find in your local
supermarket is not likely to age well, but high quality natural
blends, like good wines, will change with age, usually for the better.
Virginias are most noted for their tendency to improve over time,
becoming darker, sweeter and more full-bodied, but other sorts of
blends often show marked improvement as well. A "fresh" blend will
often have a harsh edge, and the tastes of each of its component
tobaccos will stand out sharply. After aging for a few years, however,
the blend will have a much softer quality, and the flavors of its
components will have "wed," producing a much more smooth, richer
tobacco.
Many pipe smokers set aside tins of their favorite blends to age,
dipping into their "cellars" from time to time to sample and evaluate
the blends as they change. It is also common for a smoker to place
into storage blends that he or she has purchased but did not enjoy, in
the hopes that they will improve with time. While this practice does
take a bit of patience, the rewards are almost always worth it.
Storing tobacco in unopened tins is a relatively simple matter; just
put the tins in a relatively cool, dry place, such as a closet.
Storing bulk blends or opened tins for long periods of time can be
more of a challenge. Most people recommend placing the tobacco into
sealed "Mason" jars or in hermetically sealed, non-porous plastic bags
(using one of those contraptions designed for vacuum-sealing foods
that you occasionally see for sale in department stores). Reports
indicate that either technique is satisfactory.
3.12 How Many Pipes Do I Need?
There is obviously no single answer to this question. Many pipe
smokers will tell you that you can't have too many pipes. They are, of
course, correct, and most pipe smokers will continue to add to their
collections through the years. Still, what is the practical minimum
number of pipes required?
The number of pipes you need depends on your smoking habits and the
type of tobacco you prefer. In general, however, I am of the opinion
that you will eventually need about one pipe for each bowl of tobacco
you smoke in a week. This figure was determined by a completely
unscientific experiment.
"The frequency with which I smoke varies, but during this experiment I
smoked about nine bowls a week. I attempted to smoke for a month using
only four pipes. This would allow each pipe to rest for at least 48
hours before being smoked again. I did not take particularly good care
of these pipes; in fact, I smoked much more aggressively and kept my
tobacco more moist than usual. After two or three weeks, the pipes
began to taste a bit "off," indicating that they were being smoked too
frequently. Increasing the number of pipes to eight fixed the problem.
It appears that a good quality pipe may, with minimal care, be smoked
once a week virtually indefinitely without ill effects. Your mileage
will almost certainly vary. If you smoke slowly and take good care of
your pipes you can undoubtedly get by with a much smaller collection."
The problem with having only a minimal number of pipes is that you
risk getting locked into a rigid, anal-retentive,
"if-it's-Tuesday-it-must-be-Savinelli" rotation scheme. With a larger
collection, you can smoke your pipes as the mood strikes you without
fear of oversmoking any of them. Of course, you'll also want a few
pipes for outdoor activities, and you'll want a few more that fit
comfortably in a pocket for nights on the town, a few really large
pipes for reading or television watching, etc. As they say, you really
can't have too many pipes.
3.13 Can I Make My Own Pipes?
Of course you can. In fact, many people do. Some smokers buy "kits"
with pre-drilled bowls and ready-made stems that they shape and
finish; others prefer to produce their pipes "from scratch." The
details of how to make a pipe are beyond the scope of this FAQ, but
here are two sources of pipemaking supplies and information that can
help you get started:
Stemco-Pimo, Inc.
Butternut Lane
P.O. Box 2043
Manchester Center, VT 05255
(802) 362-3371
American Smoking Pipe Co.
POB 13, 300 High Street
Wolf Creek, MT 59648
http://www.AmSmoke.com/
4. Pipe Resources On The 'Net.
There are many sources for information on pipes and pipe smoking on
the Internet, and more are popping up all the time. The two listed
below will get you to all the rest.
Steve Masticola's "Pipes Digest" is a mailing list that is a
"must-read" for every smoking 'Netizen. Send a message to
"pi...@pipes.org" and tell Steve that you'd like to subscribe. [FYI,
Steve Masticola is the creator of "alt.smokers.pipes."]
Steve Beaty's "Pipes WWW Page" is the ultimate online resource for the
pipe smoker. From here, you can subscribe to Pipes Digest, peruse back
issues of PD, or use a very efficient search engine to find topics of
interest. There are also links to just about everything on the
Internet related to pipes and pipe smoking:
http://www.pipes.org
ASP also has its own home page, where you can find a wealth of
information, including FAQ's, bio's, classic posts, merchant links, an
extensive shapes chart, and much more:
http://www.aspipes.org/
5. Acknowledgments, Etc.
Thanks to Sami Mikhail, who wrote the first version of this FAQ, and
to Mike Gillman, Jeff Folloder, and Ian Rastall, who revised it and
later handed it off to me. I only hope I haven't butchered it too
badly.
Disclaimer: Everything in this document may be wrong. Don't even think
about blaming me if something breaks, blows up, runs away, or falls
off. Face it; life is a dangerous business. Copyright 2003 by Tony
Coronado, all rights reserved. This FAQ may be freely copied for
personal use and may be posted to any non-commercial web site, ftp
site, or BBS as long as it is left completely intact, to include this
copyright statement. This FAQ may not be included in collections or
compilations without permission and may not be distributed for
financial gain.
Tony Coronado
ASP Frequently Asked Questions
*******************************
This FAQ concerns information about pipes, tobacco, and pipe smoking.
This is a dynamic document subject to change. If you have an
addition, revision, or deletion that you think needs to be taken, post
your thoughts on this thread. The FAQ's will be posted weekly. The
source of this FAQ is from an archived version dated about February
2005.
Visit the ASP website at http://www.aspipes.com/ for a version that is
easier to read and print.
ASP Frequently Asked Questions
1. General.
1.1 Introduction.
1.2 Posting Guidelines.
1.3 What should I do when I see an "inappropriate" post?
2. Beginning Pipe Smoking.
2.1 How should I select my first pipe?
2.2 How should I select my first tobacco?
2.3 How should I store my tobacco?
2.4 How do I "break in" a pipe?
2.5 How should I "pack" my pipe?
2.6 How should I light my pipe?
2.7 How do I keep my pipe lit?
2.8 How should I clean my pipe?
2.9 Why is my tongue "charred"?
2.10 Why is my pipe "gurgling"?
3. "Advanced" Topics.
3.1 How should I ream my pipe?
3.2 What can I do when my pipe "turns sour"?
3.3 How can I fix a loose stem?
3.4 What should I do with a stem that's too tight?
3.5 How should I polish my stems?
3.6 How should I care for my meerschaum?
3.7 Why do people buy expensive pipes?
3.8 Is pipe smoking bad for me?
3.9 Should I store my pipe with a cleaner in the stem?
3.10 How do I smoke "flake tobaccos"?
3.11 Does tobacco improve with age?
3.12 How many pipes do I need?
3.13 Can I make my own pipes?
4. Pipe Resources on the 'Net.
5. Acknowledgments, Etc.
1. General.
1.1 Introduction.
This is the alt.smokers.pipes Frequently Asked Questions document. Its
purpose is to provide an introduction to the newsgroup and present
some general information on the Fine Art of Pipe Smoking. Please keep
in mind that pipe smoking is indeed an art and not a science. There is
no "wrong" way to smoke a pipe, just as there is no single "right"
way. You will not learn how to smoke a pipe by reading this FAQ, or by
reading anything else for that matter. You can only learn to smoke a
pipe by actually doing so. The suggestions here are just that; your
mileage may vary. The key is to relax and enjoy yourself. If your
technique works for you, then it's right!
This FAQ will be posted biweekly to alt.smokers.pipes, and is archived
at:
http://www.aspipes.com
Requests for clarification or expansion of specific points should be
posted to alt.smokers.pipes. You are to be congratulated, by the way,
for reading the FAQ before asking your question.
1.2 Posting Guidelines
(AKA "Keeping our Newsgroup Clean").
You are welcome to post to alt.smokers.pipes; however, you should
probably read the newsgroup for a while (a week or two, perhaps), just
to get a feel for the newsgroup before posting your first article. If
you're new to USENET, or to the Internet in general, you'll certainly
want to take a look at the documents posted to the newsgroup
"news.announce.newusers," and you might want to visit some of the
sites listed below:
AOL's USENET "netiquette" (Internet etiquette) guide:
http://webmaster.info.aol.com/netiquette/usenet/
RFC1855, a comprehensive list of "Netiquette Guidelines":
http://www.aspipes.org/faq/rfc/rfc1855.html
"Net Lingo" (commonly used terms on the Internet):
http://www.netlingo.com/
Just about anything related to pipe smoking is welcome on
alt.smokers.pipes. That includes, but is not limited to, discussions
of the merits of specific pipes and pipe manufacturers, tobaccos,
tobacco manufacturers and tobacco suppliers, pipe related esoterica,
etc. We are, of course, a group dedicated to tobacco smoking. Other
smoking substances have their own groups and venues and we would
encourage you to go there to discuss them.
Commercial advertising is not forbidden, but vendors are asked to
exercise restraint. It is the majority opinion that brief, periodic
(i.e. once or twice a month) notices from pipe and tobacco vendors who
maintain a continuous presence on the 'Net are acceptable; such
announcements should consist of a *brief* introduction and a URL where
the reader may find additional information. It is also requested that
"[AD]" be included in the subject line, to designate the article as a
commercial advertisement. Buy/sell/trade lists from private
individuals are also acceptable, in moderation. NOTE: if you are in
the practice of selling pipes on a continuous or semi-continuous
basis, then you should consider yourself a commercial vendor and
follow the appropriate guidelines, even if this is not your primary
source of income. Advertisements for items up for auction on eBay,
etc. are considered to be commercial, as well. Posts of an informative
nature by individuals not directly connected to a commercial concern
do not fall into the commercial category. This is a fairly liberal
policy; please don't abuse it.
Binary messages should not be posted to alt.smokers.pipes. (For those
who don't know what this means, a "binary" is any file that is not
plain ASCII and includes, but is not limited to, .gifs, .jpgs, .zip'd
or otherwise compressed files, and word processor documents.) In fact,
binary messages are not permitted in any discussion group unless
specifically allowed by the charter. The members of ASP have decided
that binaries are not appropriate for this group. This decision was
made after long debate and a public vote; please observe it. There is
an "alt.binaries.*" hierarchy, and any binaries should be posted
there. Unfortunately, the binary groups are not available from all
ISPs. In that case the binary file should be placed at some web or ftp
site. In any event, announcements such as "I've placed xxx at yyy,
please take a look at it" are appropriate to post in
alt.smokers.pipes.
Please do not post articles in HTML format. Many people (myself
included) choose not use HTML-capable newsreaders, and HTML tags make
messages very difficult to read.
Political discussions are tolerated on the group, so long as they
relate directly to pipe smoking and pipe smoking issues. Just do your
best to be reasonably polite to the opposition when discussing these
emotionally-charged issues.
"Meta-discussions", or discussions about the group itself, are common
on ASP. These threads are important in helping people let off steam,
but they often lead to long, bitter debates. When in doubt, consider
starting a meta-discussion a bad idea. To help avoid them, be aware
that too much off-topic posting is the biggest complaint in these
threads.
Cross-posting to more than one group is a bad habit, although the
consensus seems to be that this is not a breach of 'Net etiquette
until the number of groups becomes too large (whatever that means).
The problem is that follow-ups to that message are also posted to each
group and huge snowballing flame wars erupt and rage interminably.
These flame wars are of no interest to the thousands of people who
read the victim groups. Before you post a response to a message,
please check the headers to see if the original message was
cross-posted. When following-up to a cross-posted message, always try
to edit the header and post only to the group you actually read.
Readers of the other groups will, sadly, miss your contributed wisdom.
Finally, we take great pride in the fact that ASP is one of the most
civil USENET newsgroups. While intelligent debate is perfectly
acceptable, flames and personal attacks are not. We're all human, and
tempers will inevitably flare, but please think twice before posting a
response in the heat of the moment. When in doubt, take it to e-mail.
With all of the above stated, it is admitted that off topic posts can
and will be made. Although not encouraged, it is recognized that there
is a social aspect of ASP that many posters find desirable. Off topic
posts should be made with restraint and preceded with the "[OT]"
prefix in the header.
1.3 What Should I Do When I See
An "Inappropriate" Post?
First, DO NOT POST A FOLLOW-UP TO THE GROUP. Let me say that one more
time. DO NOT POST A FOLLOW-UP TO THE GROUP. This merely contributes to
the problem. Examples of inappropriate posts and suggested responses
are listed below.
TROLLS. "Trolls" are messages from people who derive perverse pleasure
from driving others to anger. Often, these people will make a brief,
inflammatory statement and sit back to watch the sparks fly. How do
you know if a message is a troll? If you think it might be, it
probably is. RESPONSE: Ignore them completely. If you simply MUST
respond, do it privately, via e-mail.
WRONG GROUP. Occasionally someone will make an honest mistake and post
a message to the wrong group. Most people don't take the time to read
FAQs, so they may be ignorant of what is considered appropriate for a
specific group. A "wrong group" post can also result from a response
to a cross-posted message. RESPONSE: Send an e-mail politely directing
them to the appropriate group. Some relevant examples are listed
below:
cigar smoking alt.smokers.cigars
general smokers' issues alt.smokers
non-smokers' issues alt.support.non-smokers
quitting smoking alt.support.stop-smoking
drugs (legal and otherwise) alt.drugs.*
BINARIES. (See "posting guidelines" above.) RESPONSE: Politely ask the
offender via e-mail not to do this, perhaps including a copy of the
relevant portion of this FAQ.
FREQUENT REQUESTS. These are not inappropriate per se, but they do
increase traffic and are a burden for those who would like to help
newcomers and others just looking for information. RESPONSE: Direct
them to this FAQ or to one of the many sources of information
available on the Internet.
SPAMs. These are messages posted to a large number of groups, which
the offender DOES NOT READ, often advertising a marginally legal
method to "MAKE MONEY FAST." (Use of the word "SPAM" in this context,
by the way, is derived from a Monty Python comedy skit.) The people
who post these sorts of messages are the scum of the earth. USENET was
designed on the "honor system," and some people have none. RESPONSE:
IT IS POINTLESS TO REPLY to the message by posting to the newsgroup;
the offender will never see your reply. If you want to reply privately
by e-mail, that is your business. Be aware that many such messages
have bogus return addresses so that you cannot reply. The best way to
complain is to send e-mail to the postmaster at the offender's site.
Again, because the sender's address may be bogus, you have to inspect
the headers to see where it is really coming from. Even those headers
may be forged. Copy the entire message, including all of the headers,
and send it to the site's postmaster, with a brief introductory note.
There are several newsgroups in the "news.admin.net-abuse.*" hierarchy
for news of and comment on these abuses. Some other useful resources
are listed below.
Net Abuse FAQ:
http://www.cybernothing.org/faqs/
net-abuse-faq.html
alt.spam FAQ (how to find the origin of a fake post or e-mail):
http://digital.net/~gandalf/spamfaq.html
TEST MESSAGES. Messages of the form "Test, don't read, please ignore"
are not appropriate in any discussion group. The response to these
should be the same as that for "wrong group" posts. If you need to
test your newsreader, there is a group, alt.test, specifically for
that purpose. In fact, many geographic domains maintain *.test
newsgroups, and it is recommended that you use the one "closest" to
you. NOTE: Many automatic mailers watch alt.test and will bombard you
with copies of your test message. To avoid that, include the word
"ignore" anywhere in your "Subject:" line. If you simply *MUST* post a
message to ASP to test your newsreader, then at least take the time to
say something about pipes.
2. Beginning Pipe Smoking.
2.1 How Should I Select My First Pipe?
The short answer: "Pick one you like." If you need more guidance than
that, keep reading.
MATERIAL. For your first pipe, you'll probably want one made of briar.
"Briar" is wood from the burl (that portion between the root and the
trunk) of the white heath (Erica arborea), a small tree or bush that
grows in the Mediterranean region. Briar is durable, heat- resistant,
and pleasing in appearance. There are other materials-- such as clay,
meerschaum, and porcelain--that are also used to make pipes, but these
materials are fragile and lack the smoking characteristics and ease of
use of briar. Corncob pipes are the least expensive option for a first
pipe, and they are a viable alternative to briar; however, they often
have very small bowls (the bowl is the part of the pipe that holds the
tobacco) and brittle plastic stems (the part that you place in your
mouth) that are quite easy to bite through. Most briar pipes have
stems made of vulcanite (rubber) or lucite (acrylic); either material
works fine, and stem material is purely a matter of personal choice.
Vulcanite is softer, which many find more comfortable, but lucite is
more durable and resists oxidation.
PRICE. Pipes range in price from a couple of dollars to several
thousand; it is recommended that you stay closer to the lower end of
this range for your first pipe. By purchasing a moderately-priced
pipe, you will not be out a large sum if you determine that pipe
smoking isn't for you. A reasonably good quality "basket pipe" (so
called because most tobacconists keep their lower-priced, "no-name"
pipes in an open basket near the sales counter) can be had for as
little as $15, and many "name brand" manufacturers produce pipes in
the $35-60 range. You'll probably want to avoid very small pipes, as
they tend to smoke hot, and very large ones, as they are often harder
for a novice to keep lit and may hold too much tobacco for to
comfortably finish initially. Try not to purchase one of those pipes
you may find in plastic bubble packaging at your local discount store
if you can avoid it; instead, seek out a good tobacconist and ask for
his or her recommendation. Not only will this give you a broader
selection from which to choose, but the tobacconist is likely to have
some good advice on how to get started. Don't be afraid to tell the
shop owner that you're a novice. He or she will figure this out pretty
quickly on their own anyway, and it is in their own best interest to
help you select a pipe and tobacco that they think you'll enjoy. If
you don't know where to find a reputable tobacconist, check the Pipes
Digest Resource Guide at:
http://www.pipes.org/resource_guide.html
or the ASP Home Page at:
http://www.aspipes.org/
or ask the newsgroup for a recommendation. While you're buying the
pipe, pick up a package of pipe cleaners (the soft, cotton ones are
best for most purposes), and a cheap "pipe tool" or "tamper"; you'll
need them.
FILTERS. You should not be inhaling smoke, so a filter is, in the
opinion of many, superfluous. One major drawback to most filtering
systems is that they tend to affect the taste of the tobacco--for the
worse--if not kept meticulously clean. With that said, in some parts
of the world, particularly central Europe, pipe filters are quite
common. Many of the pipes sold there have a cavity in the shank (that
part of the pipe that connects the bowl to the stem) designed to
accomodate 9mm filters. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a
filter in your pipe. If you prefer filters, then by all means use
them. Nevertheless, you don't need them.
SHAPE. This is purely a matter of personal taste. Many pipe smokers
prefer pipes that are bent, as they "hang" easier, putting less strain
on the teeth and jaw. Personally, I prefer straight- stemmed pipes,
predominately for aesthetic reasons, but also because it is easier to
insert a pipe cleaner to absorb the condensate that occasionally
collects in the shank while smoking. For a detailed study of pipe
shapes and pipe anatomy, see The alt.smokers.pipes home page guide at:
http://www.aspipes.org/shapes/shapes.html
or The OoOPS Guide to Indentifying Pipes at:
http://www.fujipub.com/ooops/pipeshap.html
SECONDS. A true "second" is a pipe that has some kind of flaw (which
is almost always cosmetic in nature) and is therefore not deemed
worthy to carry the manufacturer's usual brand name. Typically, such
pipes are simply stamped "Imported Briar," or something similar;
however, some manufacturers have distinctive stampings for their
cosmetically-challenged pipes (such as Peterson's "Irish Seconds").
You can find some very good pipes at a reduced price because they have
surface flaws--pits, putty "fills" in the briar, imperfect carving,
etc.--that do not affect the way they smoke at all. Many of the
inexpensive pipes that you will find at your tobacconist (to include
"basket pipes" and most "house brands") are "seconds" of one sort or
another.
ESTATE PIPES. In the pipe smoking community, "estate" is a euphemism
for "used." By buying an estate pipe, it is possible to get a high
quality pipe for much less than it would cost new. (It is also
possible to buy a piece of junk at a greatly inflated price, so caveat
emptor applies.) While these pipes are usually thoroughly cleaned
before they are sold, some people are appalled at the idea of smoking
a pipe that was smoked by someone else; I wonder if these people bring
their own silverware to restaurants. It should be noted that the
previous owner's smoking habits will have at least a minor affect on
the taste the pipe will impart to tobacco.
2.2 How Should I Select My First Tobacco?
This question lends itself to the short answer given in section 2.1
above. If you have had experience with only cigarettes and cigars,
you're in for a real treat. The variety of pipe tobaccos is positively
staggering, and the flavor of a blend is influenced not only by its
component tobaccos, but also by myriad other factors such as the style
of cut and the pipe used to smoke it. The only way to determine which
sort of tobacco is right for you is to try a number of very different
blends to decide which general type you like, and then proceed from
there. Some of us are constantly searching for the perfect blend,
affectionately known as "The Holy Grail."
"DRUGSTORE" TOBACCOS. Generally, you will be better off purchasing
your tobacco from a tobacconist. Many of the commonly available blends
found in discount stores or supermakets are made from lower quality
tobacco, and the additives with which they are laced for preservation
and "taste enhancement" alter the way a tobacco smokes, usually for
the worse. Of course, there is no harm at all in sampling these
tobaccos; you may discover that one such blend is just your cup of
tea. Most "drugstore blends" have been around for decades, so they
must have something going for them.
AROMATICS VS. NON-AROMATICS. These are the two broadest subdivisions
of pipe tobaccos. As a general rule, most beginning smokers tend to go
for an "aromatic" tobacco, which has been "cased" or "topped" with
flavorings such as vanilla, cherry, etc., while those converting from
cigars or cigarettes often prefer an "non-aromatic" or "natural"
tobacco.
AROMATICS. A good aromatic tobacco is lightly topped with a natural
flavoring. Aromatics tend to be more moist than non-aromatics, which
can lead to problems smoking them. These problems can be avoided if
care is taken in the preparation of the tobacco and in the pack of the
pipe.
NON-AROMATICS. These are tobaccos that contain no flavored additives;
in fact, a good non-aromatic blend will contain no additives
whatsoever, other than perhaps a bit of water. [SIDE NOTE: You may see
the word "English" used as a descriptor for non-aromatic or natural
blends. To some purists, an English blend contains only Virginias and
latakia (described below), and the term is used in a broad sense by
some to refer to almost any unflavored tobacco (at one time, British
law prohibited adulterants in tobacco). Typically, however, the term
is used to describe a non-aromatic blend that contains latakia.]
COMMON TYPES OF TOBACCO.
BURLEY. A low-sugar, high nicotine, slow-burning tobacco with a very
subtle flavor, burley is often used as a base for aromatics or to
modify the burning characteristics of a blend.
CAVENDISH. A term with a variety of meanings. Generally, a cavendish
is "sweetened" in some way, either by a processing technique or by
additives, or both.
LATAKIA. A "spice" tobacco that is cured over the smoke of particular
types of wood. (You may read that it is cured over fires fueled by
dried camel dung, but this is not the case.) Latakia has a distinctive
"smoky" taste and a pungent aroma that some find very pleasant and
others find just the opposite. Latakia adds body and depth to the
flavor of many natural blends.
ORIENTALS. By definition, "Orientals" are those tobaccos indigenous to
the eastern Mediterranean region, including the various "Turkish"
tobaccos and latakia. An "Oriental blend" contains at least one and
often several of these tobaccos.
PERIQUE. Another "spice" tobacco grown only in St. James Parish,
Louisiana. Perique is subjected to extreme pressure and is allowed to
ferment as it is cured, which results in a very distinctive tobacco.
TURKISH. Any of a number of tobaccos grown in numerous locales
throughout the eastern Mediterranean region. Common "Turkish"
varieties include Basma, Smyrna, Xanthi, Samsun, Izmir, Drama, and
Yenidje. Generally, these names are derived from the region in which
they are grown. Turkish tobaccos have a somewhat sweet, spicy flavor
that gives "body" to many blends.
VIRGINIA. Despite the name, Virginias are grown in numerous locales.
There are several varieties of Virginias, but all are characterized a
relatively high sugar content. Virginias are often used as the base
tobacco in blends, but they are smoked "straight" as well. Straight
Virginias undergo changes in flavor as they age, similar to fine
wines. Lighter in body than Oriental blends, they have a subtle
complexity of flavor that makes them a favorite of many experienced
smokers.
2.3 How Should I Store My Tobacco?
The moisture content of a tobacco affects the way it smokes and
tastes; a tobacco that is too moist or too dry will not offer a
pleasing smoke. One way to determine if your tobacco has the proper
level of moisture is the "pinch test." Take a pinch of your tobacco
and squeeze it tightly for a couple of seconds, then release it. If it
immediately starts to "unravel," your tobacco is in good shape. If it
stays in a tight clump, it is too wet. If it crumbles, it is too dry.
Tobacco purchased in tins should retain its moisture for several weeks
after opening. Blends purchased in "bulk," or tinned tobaccos that are
to be stored for many weeks or months after opening should be stored
in some type of container. Standard "ziplock" sandwich bags are not
airtight, and your tobacco will dry out over time if they are used for
storage. Similar bags designed for use in the freezer are better, but
still aren't completely satisfactory for anything other than
relatively short term storage. Some people advocate the use of
multiple bags in a Tupperware container, "Mason" jars, or heat-sealed,
vacuum-pack bags. All of these methods are satisfactory; however, I
prefer to use bail-top jars with rubber gaskets.
If your tobacco is too moist, you can leave the container open
slightly, while monitoring it closely. If your tobacco has dried out,
it is usually possible to revive it. (There is a point beyond which no
amount of re-moistening is going to restore the flavor of a tobacco,
but that time span is generally measured in months or years.) Some
advocate placing a slice of apple or potato in the tobacco container.
This will work, but if left too long, you run the risk of introducing
mold with this technique. Unlike cheese, the flavor of tobacco is not
improved by mold, and once your container has been so contaminated, it
is almost impossible to completely rid it of the mold spores that will
attempt to infest any tobacco placed in that container in the future.
A much safer method is to spray a tiny amount of water into the
container and reseal it for a day or two, or purchase a ceramic
humidifying disk from your tobacconist and place it in the storage
container.
2.4 How Do I "Break In" A Pipe?
The process of "breaking in" a pipe serves two functions. First, any
saps, resins, acids, stains, demons, or other nasty things that have
remained in the briar are driven out. Second, and most importantly, a
"cake"--the layer of charred residue that builds up inside the bowl as
tobacco is smoked in it--is developed. This cake protects the bowl of
the pipe from the heat of burning tobacco and prevents it from
"burning out." It should be noted that most of the information in this
section applies to briar pipes only. Most other pipes require no break
in period, or at most a very brief one. Additionally, one should not
allow a cake to build up in a meerschaum or clay, as this could cause
the bowl to crack.
It is important to smoke a new pipe slowly, to avoid damaging the
naked briar. Some recommend that a new pipe be filled only one-third
to one-half full for the first several smokes, after which the bowl
can be filled a little more with each smoke. To be honest, this
procedure is not necessary, but I always recommend it--and usually
practice it--because it is all too easy to damage a new pipe through
carelessness. Don't try to rush the break-in period, and don't be
overly concerned if a new pipe has a bitter taste. Some pipes break in
easier than others, and it is not uncommon for a pipe that is very
difficult to break in to mature into a great smoker.
Some pipes are sold with a bowl coating designed to protect the briar
until a cake is built up (sometimes such bowls are called "pre-
carbonized"). Many pipes, however, are not so treated. While a "naked"
bowl is not likely to be damaged so long as the pipe is smoked slowly,
many people advocate preparing the bowl interior of a new pipe. Some
recommend that the inside of the bowl be dampened with water to
protect the briar, while others recommend honey, or a mixture of honey
and water. Honey may help a cake form more quickly, but after trying
all of these techniques I find that these days I tend to use nothing
at all.
Finally, try not to smoke a new pipe outdoors if you can possibly
avoid it. Even a gentle breeze will cause the pipe to burn much hotter
than it would indoors, which can irreparably damage a briar that is
not protected by a cake. I've never had a problem smoking my pipes
outdoors (after they've been broken in, of course), but if you're
concerned about possible damage, you can purchase wind caps from your
tobacconist which will shield the burning tobacco from the effects of
wind.
2.5 How Should I "Pack" My Pipe?
A pipe must be packed properly to ensure a good smoke; unfortunately,
learning to do this takes time and practice. In fact, the art of
packing a pipe is the most difficult task associated with pipe
smoking, and this can be very frustrating for the beginner. I suspect
that most people who have given up on trying to learn to smoke a pipe
did so primarily because they couldn't master packing a bowl quickly
enough to suit them.
The most common technique for packing a pipe is the "three layer"
method. The objective is to end up with a bowl that is evenly packed
from top to bottom; this is done by packing each layer progressively
tighter. Trickle tobacco into the bowl until it is slightly overfull,
then press very lightly with your finger until the bowl appears half
full. Fill the pipe again and press down until the pipe is 2/3 to 3/4
full. Finally, overfill the pipe and press the top layer down fairly
firmly. When finished the tobacco should feel "springy" to the touch.
If it has no give at all, it's packed too tight. If a touch leaves an
indentation, it is packed too loosely. Finally, test the "draw" by
sucking air through the unlit pipe; the resistance should be about
like that felt when sipping a soft drink through a straw. If the draw
doesn't feel right, then empty the bowl and start over. A slightly
different touch must be used depending on the size of the bowl and the
cut and moisture level of the tobacco, but this will become second
nature with experience. In fact, you will undoubtedly develop your own
packing techniques with time, and you will find yourself loading your
pipe without even thinking about it.
If you find yourself frustrated by the fact that you simply can't get
the feel for packing your pipe, you might want to try a method
suggested by Mike Butera. Mike recommends chopping the tobacco,
reducing the ribbons into rectangles or squares about 1/4" long. The
bowl is then packed as described above. Some people have found that
this method can make the task of packing a bowl much easier.
2.6 How Should I Light My Pipe?
Barring such bizarre contraptions as parabolic mirrors, lasers, and
miniature blowtorches, there are three ways to light your pipe: with a
match, with a butane lighter, or with a fluid lighter (e.g. a
"Zippo").
The wooden match is the traditional pipe lighting device. Strike the
match and hold it for a second or two while the sulfur burns off.
Bring the match to the tobacco surface and, while puffing gently, move
the match around the tobacco in a slow, even circle.
Butane lighters are more convenient than matches, and, unlike fluid
lighters, there is less risk of imparting an unpleasant taste to your
tobacco. If you wish to use a butane lighter, then purchase one that
is designed for pipes. Such lighters have an angled gas outlet that
makes it easier to direct the flame into the bowl while avoiding
burned fingers.
Fluid lighters share the convenience feature of butane, and they
provide the only truly reliable means of lighting a pipe in a stiff
wind. Zippo makes a lighter designed for pipes that has a circular
hole in the chimney which is placed over the bowl while the flame is
"sucked" into the tobacco. Other types of fluid lighters may be used
as well, but their broad flame makes it all too easy to char the rim
of the pipe bowl. The primary disadvantage to fluid lighters is that
they can impart a slight taste to the tobacco. Some swear that this
can be prevented if one merely waits a few seconds after igniting the
lighter before lighting the tobacco. I can still taste (smell?) the
lighter fluid, however, and I prefer my tobacco sans naphtha.
2.7 How Do I Keep My Pipe Lit?
Don't be overly concerned if you have difficulty keeping your pipe lit
at first. It is not unusual for even experienced smokers to have to
re-light several times, especially toward the bottom of the bowl. Try
to relax and enjoy yourself--that is the whole point, after all.
You'll find it much easier to keep your pipe lit with practice.
CHARRING LIGHT. The best way to keep your pipe lit is to light it
correctly at the beginning. Most people light their pipe twice. Light
the pipe as described above and puff a half dozen times or so. Then
tamp the surface of the tobacco down with your pipe tool and re-light.
The first lighting, often called the "charring light," will char the
top of the tobacco and prepare this surface for the second lighting
which will, with practice, take you through most of the bowl.
TAMPING. While smoking, ash residue will form at the top of the
tobacco. This residue should be gently tamped down periodically during
the course of a smoke and prior to re-lighting. This tamping serves to
keep the tobacco--which expands as it burns--properly packed and
promotes even burning. If the pipe has an especially tall bowl, the
ash may sometimes become so thick that it is difficult to re-light the
tobacco below it. If this occurs, loosen the ash gently with your pipe
tool, dump the ash, tamp, and re-light.
SMOKING PACE. The pace at which you smoke (i.e. the rhythm at which
you puff your pipe) is very important. With practice and
experimentation you will achieve the perfect pace for you. The idea is
to puff frequently enough to keep the tobacco lit, but not so
frequently as to cause the pipe to burn too hot, which contributes to
tongue bite and may damage your pipe. If you can't hold the bowl of
your pipe comfortably in your hand, or if you can't hold the side of
the bowl against your face for more than a few seconds, then you're
smoking too fast. If this happens, set the pipe down for a few minutes
to cool, then re-light and start again. Someone once described the
perfect smoking pace as one where the pipe is always on the verge of
going out.
2.8 How Should I Clean My Pipe?
Your pipe should be cleaned after each smoke. To do this, first let
the pipe cool and then scoop or dump out any ash and "dottle"
(unburned tobacco that sometimes remains in the bottom of the bowl).
Do not bang the pipe against a hard surface, as this may result in a
cracked shank or broken stem. If you must, hold the bowl of the pipe
in one hand and strike the top of the bowl against the open palm of
the opposite hand. Once the bowl is empty, run a pipe cleaner through
the stem until it just enters the bowl and remove it. Repeat with
additional cleaners until they come out clean (many people, myself
included, will use both ends of a pipe cleaner before switching to a
new one). Finally, take one of the used cleaners, bend it into a "U"
shape, and wipe out the ash clinging to the sides of the bowl. [NOTE:
Some people prefer to leave the ash in the bowl, believing that it
promotes a good cake. If you like, try both ways and see what works
best for you.] Set the pipe aside to dry completely. *Ideally*, the
pipe should be allowed to "rest" for around 48 hours before smoking it
again, but you might have to forgo this luxury until you have enough
pipes to do so.
Periodically, you'll want to clean your pipe a bit more thoroughly. In
addition to the steps above, you'll also want to carefully remove the
stem from the shank and wipe out the "gunk" that collects in the
mortise; a cotton swab (e.g. a "Q-tip") works well for this task. Some
people also advocate periodic cleaning of the stem and shank with pipe
cleaners soaked in alcohol (preferably some form of grain alcohol),
particularly if the pipe begins to taste a bit musty or sour. Do not,
however, get alcohol anywhere near the bowl of a meerschaum pipe.
CAUTION! PAY ATTENTION HERE!! Never, ever, ever take the stem out of a
pipe while it is still hot. Allow the pipe to cool for at least an
hour before attempting to remove the stem. [I'm of the opinion that
you should let the pipe dry completely before removing the stem, as
well.] Repeatedly removing the stem from a hot pipe will result in a
loose stem at best, and you may even end up with a broken tenon or a
cracked shank. With that said, there are pipes that are designed to
have their stem removed while still hot. This sort of stem is called a
"military bit" or an "army mount," since pipes such as these were
originally designed for military men (I'm not being non-PC; there
simply weren't any military women in those days), who might have need
to stow their pipes on short notice. The stem's tenon on such a pipe
is tapered to provide a friction fit, and the shank is almost always
reinforced with a metal "cup" or band.
2.9 Why Is My Tongue "Charred"?
"Tongue bite," an intense burning sensation of the tongue, is an
unpleasant side effect often experienced by the new pipe smoker (it is
also experienced by non-newbies who take up the pipe again after a
period of abstinence). While irritating, it will usually go away after
a week or so of smoking. If you experience this problem for an
extended period, then you may be smoking a tobacco that's too moist,
you may have failed to pack the bowl properly, or you're smoking too
fast. Some tongue bite sufferers have also experienced relief by using
an oral rinse sold under the name "Biotene." It works for some; you
might want to try it.
2.10 Why Is My Pipe "Gurgling"?
This is caused by moisture collecting in the bottom of the bowl and/or
in the shank or stem. Possible causes of "gurgle" are:
Smoking too fast. Water vapor is a by-product of combustion, and rapid
smoking will produce large amounts of it, which will then condense in
the shank and stem.
Smoking a pipe that is not yet broken-in. I'm not certain if this
occurs because the briar has not dried completely, because there is no
cake, or "just because." Still, a new pipe will often smoke wet.
Smoking a tobacco that is too moist. This is self explanatory. In
addition, some tobaccos, particularly aromatics, tend to leave more
liquid residue than others.
Saliva in the pipe. Salivation is a normal response to smoking, and
this saliva can collect in the stem. Keep your tongue away from the
mouthpiece opening, and try to keep your mouth as dry as possible.
If your pipe begins to gurgle while smoking, run a pipe cleaner down
the stem to absorb the moisture. This can be a bit tricky with some
bent pipes, but it's usually possible if you put a small bend in the
end of the cleaner and rotate it "just right."
3. "Advanced" Topics.
This section addresses questions that may crop up once you have
mastered the basics. If you have a question that you think should be
added here, please let me know.
3.1 How Should I Ream My Pipe?
After a pipe has been smoked for a long time its cake may become so
thick that it significantly reduces the capacity of the bowl. In very
extreme cases, an overly thick cake may actually crack the bowl due to
differential expansion. Ideally, the cake should not exceed
one-sixteenth of an inch (about 1.5 mm) or so. When the cake exceeds
this thickness, it should be carefully reamed. Some pipe tools have a
blunt-pointed (to prevent gouging of the bowl bottom) knife blade for
this purpose. While these will work, it is very easy to trim the cake
unevenly or even inadvertently dig into bare wood. Numerous
adjustable, multibladed reamers are available commercially, and these
will do a much neater job. A favored tool for this task--suggested by
pipe maker extraordinaire JT Cooke--is nothing more than a series of
short wooden dowels of varying diameters that are wrapped with fine
grit emery cloth or sandpaper. Whatever device you choose to use, work
very slowly and carefully to prevent damage to your pipe. The idea is
to gradually shave the cake down to the proper thickness, not to
scrape it out in chunks. If you have more than the usual number of
thumbs, you might want to take the pipe to your tobacconist, who will
usually perform this task for a nominal fee.
3.2 What Can I Do When My Pipe "Turns Sour"?
A pipe, properly cared for, will probably outlast its owner.
Occasionally, however, a pipe may begin to taste bitter or "sour."
Sometimes this is caused by not allowing the pipe sufficient time to
"rest" between smokes; other times, no cause can be determined with
certainty. In any event, such a pipe can usually be rejuvenated by
applying the "Professor's Pipe-Sweetening Treatment," publicized by
Dennis Congos.
First, find some salt (non-iodized is preferred, but not essential),
some alcohol (preferably "Everclear," or some other form of near-pure,
non-denatured ethanol), and a place to rest your pipe in a
semi-upright position. Insert a pipe cleaner into the stem of the pipe
so that it extends into the shank. Fill the bowl to the rim with salt
and drip or carefully pour alcohol into the bowl until the salt is
just saturated. Try not to get any alcohol on the pipe's exterior, as
this may damage the finish; any spills should be wiped up immediately.
Leave the pipe alone for a day or two. After this time the salt will
have turned brown from the absorption of "tars" from the bowl.
Thoroughly clean all salt from the bowl and set the pipe aside
overnight to dry completely. Your pipe will now be revitalized, and
all traces of bitterness should be gone.
WARNING: Many people swear by this process, but the procedure is not
risk-free. Some people have had pipes crack after this treatment,
particularly when they allowed the salt and alcohol mixture to enter
the pipe's shank and/or when they left the mixture in the pipe for
several days. Any pipe with significant monetary or sentimental value
should be sent to a professional pipe repairperson.
3.3 How Can I Fix A Loose Stem?
Even if you're careful to never remove the stem from a hot pipe, you
may occasionally be faced with a loose stem. Often this problem will
fix itself with time, but if the stem is so loose that it is in danger
of falling out, then something must be done. The safest bet is to take
the pipe to a tobacconist or send it to a repairperson. These people
will have a great deal of practice performing this task, and they will
do it for a very modest fee. It is remarkably easy for an amateur to
crack a shank while attempting this repair, as many of us can sadly
attest.
Nevertheless, if you are determined to do this yourself, you must
first determine what sort of stem you have. If the stem is lucite, the
easiest fix is to apply a very thin layer of clear nail polish to the
tenon, allow this to dry *completely*, and then carefully sand the
tenon to fit. A vulcanite stem, on the other hand, is a bit more
complicated, as you will need to heat the tenon and expand it in some
way. There are a number of variations to this procedure, but the most
common one is described below.
First, remove the stem from the pipe and insert a pipe cleaner into
the stem so that it just reaches the end of the tenon (this is to
ensure that you don't collapse the air hole). Next, carefully heat the
tenon over a match for about five seconds (the intent is to soften the
vulcanite, not melt it). Then gently press the end of the tenon
against a flat surface, keeping the tenon as perpendicular to the
surface as possible, taking care not bend the tenon to one side or the
other. After the stem has cooled, test fit it. If the stem is still
too loose, repeat this procedure. If it is now too tight, then see
"What should I do with a stem that's too tight?" below. NOTE: It is
*very* easy to ruin a perfectly good pipe with this technique, and I
feel I should reiterate my earlier statement that this job is best
undertaken by a "professional."
A less radical (and *much* safer) procedure that has been recommended
to me by several people is to simply rub the stem's tenon against a
block of beeswax until the tenon is well coated. Once this is
complete, reinsert the stem. I am told that the joint will tighten
after a smoke or two.
3.4 What Should I Do With A Stem That's Too Tight?
If the stem is still inserted in the pipe and is so difficult to
remove that you fear your pipe may be damaged, then place the pipe in
the freezer for several minutes. This works the vast majority of the
time; however, if the stem still proves too difficult to remove, smoke
the pipe, allow it to cool, and try to remove the stem again. If
neither of these techniques work, then send the pipe to a reputable
repairperson.
If you do manage to remove the stem, place some sort of dry lubricant,
such as graphite (from a soft pencil) or wax, on the tenon and attempt
to reinsert the stem. If this does not provide satisfactory results,
you will need to remove a small amount of material from the tenon.
Wrap some very fine (400 grit or so) sandpaper or some "O" or finer
grade steel wool around the tenon and twist the stem gently. Work very
slowly and carefully, and check the fit frequently until it is
satisfactory.
3.5 How Should I Polish My Stems?
Vulcanite stems can oxidize, turning a disgusting brownish green
color. This is one case where "an ounce of prevention" definitely pays
off. Avoid exposing vulcanite stems to direct sunlight whenever
possible, and wipe off your stems after each use. When oxidation does
begin to form, it can often be removed with a mild abrasive, such as
baking soda or toothpaste. If the oxidation is too severe for this
treatment, jeweler's rouge or an automobile rubbing compound will
often do the trick. For truly stubborn stems more drastic measures may
be required. An overnight soak in household bleach will turn your
stems black again, but you should be careful to cover any stem logos
with a blob of petroleum jelly to protect them prior to soaking, and
you should be prepared to apply some elbow grease to polish the stem
surface, which will be roughened by this treatment.
Professionals (and "serious amateurs") remove oxidation with a buffing
wheel loaded with Tripoli or some similar abrasive and then apply
carnuba wax to protect the stem and bring out a high shine. If you
wish to use a buffing rig, consult with someone experienced in such
matters. It's all too easy to burn a stem on a buffing wheel running
at excessively high speed or, for that matter, to catapult a briar
into your face.
3.6 How Should I Care For My Meerschaum?
First, and most importantly, don't drop it. Meerschaum is fragile, and
it is very unlikely that your pipe will survive a dive to the kitchen
floor. Second, do not allow a cake to build in the bowl (firmly
swabbing out all the ash residue with a bent pipe cleaner after each
smoke should do the trick). If your pipe does start to build a cake,
then ream it out very carefully. Third, if your pipe has a screw-in
shank fitting (as most meerschaums do), twist the stem clockwise while
removing it; twisting counter-clockwise could unscrew the fitting, and
doing so repeatedly can strip the shank threads. Finally, meerschaum
is a very absorbent, inorganic material, and does not require the same
"rest period" that briars do. Still, I would at least allow the pipe
to cool and dry completely before loading up and smoking it again.
Many meerschaum aficionados claim that to insure proper "coloring" of
the bowl you should never hold the bowl with your bare hands while
smoking. This may be true, but I would much rather have a meerschaum
with an unevenly colored bowl than to have to go through the hassle of
holding my pipe by the stem or (horrors!) wearing kid gloves to smoke.
3.7 Why Do People Buy Expensive Pipes?
Good question. Will a $500 pipe smoke 10 times better than a $50 pipe?
Probably not. Does this mean the $500 pipe is a "poor value"? Not
necessarily.
Like most things in life, you generally get what you pay for when you
buy a pipe. A number of factors contribute to the price of a pipe, not
the least of which is the amount of time and energy expended in its
production. A machine can crank out a pipe in less than a minute, but
a craftsman may spend a day or more carving a single pipe, and such a
pipe is as much a work of art as it is a smoking instrument. Smoking
these sculptures in briar can provide tremendous pleasure, and many
people are willing to pay for the privilege.
On the other hand, many people are perfectly content to smoke
so-called "cheap" pipes. These people think that spending a large sum
of money on a hunk of wood that serves only to hold burning tobacco is
irresponsible, foolish, or both. These people do have a point, as it
is certainly possible to buy an inexpensive, machine-made pipe that
smokes perfectly well.
Like so many other aspects in this hobby, it all boils down to
personal preference. The important thing is to smoke what you like,
and don't get your nose out of joint if someone else's tastes differ
from yours.
3.8 Is Pipe Smoking Bad For Me?
Probably. How bad? The jury's still out. Pipe smoking is certainly the
safest form of tobacco use (with the possible exception of nasal
snuff). In fact, a review of the literature has led me to believe that
the risks are, for the most part, negligible, so long as one smokes in
moderation and does not inhale. This is not to say that pipe smoking
won't kill you, but it's less likely to do so than your automobile. I
must note that at least one study (the United States Surgeon General's
Report on Cigarette Smoking, 1964) found that pipe smokers live
*longer* than non-smokers. If this is true, I'm sure it's because pipe
smoking reduces stress, and because pipe smokers spend so much time
fiddling with their pipes that they have little time to participate in
more hazardous activities. Still, if you have a strong desire to live
forever, I suggest you forgo pipe smoking (and fried foods, and red
meat, breathing, etc.).
3.9 Should I Store My Pipe With A Cleaner In The Stem?
There are three schools of thought on this issue:
1) Those who do not leave a pipe cleaner in their pipe between smokes.
These people believe that doing so prevent their pipe from drying
quickly and or properly.
2) Those who do leave a pipe cleaner in their pipe between smokes.
These people believe that doing so assists in the absorption of nasty
stuff.
3) Those who compromise by leaving a pipe cleaner in their pipe for a
short period (usually overnight), then removing it to allow the pipe
to dry completely.
Personally, I belong to group #1 a about half the time. The rest of
the time I'm a #3, unless I forget to remove the pipe cleaner, in
which case I'm an accidental #2. Bottom line: It really doesn't
matter. Whatever works for you is fine.
3.10 How Do I Smoke "Flake Tobaccos"?
Flake tobaccos are those that have been pressed during processing into
a rectangular cake and then (usually after an aging period) sliced
into shingle-like "flakes" about a millimeter or so in thickness. Most
flake tobaccos are straight Virginias. Variations on this theme
include "sliced plug" (typically a flavored burley), "cut cake," "roll
cut" (which is spun into a sort of rope before being sliced into
discs, and which often has perique added to the base Virginias), as
well as "plugs" and "twists" (which are sliced by the consumer after
purchase).
Most flake tobaccos and their kin should be prepared prior to smoking;
this process is known as "rubbing out" the tobacco. The traditional
technique for doing this is to place the number of flakes sufficient
to fill the pipe in the palm of one hand; then rub both palms together
over a cloth or a sheet of paper. An alternate technique is to pinch
the flakes apart with the fingertips; I usually use a combination of
these two methods to reduce the flakes to the proper consistency. The
degree to which the flakes are rubbed out will determine the tobacco's
burning characteristics and taste. The more the flake is rubbed out,
the faster and easier the tobacco will burn. If you tend to smoke
overly fast, or if you intend to smoke outdoors, you might wish to rub
the flakes out less. As with most things related to pipe smoking, the
key is practice and experience.
3.11 Does Tobacco Improve With Age?
The answer is a qualified "yes." The stuff you'll find in your local
supermarket is not likely to age well, but high quality natural
blends, like good wines, will change with age, usually for the better.
Virginias are most noted for their tendency to improve over time,
becoming darker, sweeter and more full-bodied, but other sorts of
blends often show marked improvement as well. A "fresh" blend will
often have a harsh edge, and the tastes of each of its component
tobaccos will stand out sharply. After aging for a few years, however,
the blend will have a much softer quality, and the flavors of its
components will have "wed," producing a much more smooth, richer
tobacco.
Many pipe smokers set aside tins of their favorite blends to age,
dipping into their "cellars" from time to time to sample and evaluate
the blends as they change. It is also common for a smoker to place
into storage blends that he or she has purchased but did not enjoy, in
the hopes that they will improve with time. While this practice does
take a bit of patience, the rewards are almost always worth it.
Storing tobacco in unopened tins is a relatively simple matter; just
put the tins in a relatively cool, dry place, such as a closet.
Storing bulk blends or opened tins for long periods of time can be
more of a challenge. Most people recommend placing the tobacco into
sealed "Mason" jars or in hermetically sealed, non-porous plastic bags
(using one of those contraptions designed for vacuum-sealing foods
that you occasionally see for sale in department stores). Reports
indicate that either technique is satisfactory.
3.12 How Many Pipes Do I Need?
There is obviously no single answer to this question. Many pipe
smokers will tell you that you can't have too many pipes. They are, of
course, correct, and most pipe smokers will continue to add to their
collections through the years. Still, what is the practical minimum
number of pipes required?
The number of pipes you need depends on your smoking habits and the
type of tobacco you prefer. In general, however, I am of the opinion
that you will eventually need about one pipe for each bowl of tobacco
you smoke in a week. This figure was determined by a completely
unscientific experiment.
"The frequency with which I smoke varies, but during this experiment I
smoked about nine bowls a week. I attempted to smoke for a month using
only four pipes. This would allow each pipe to rest for at least 48
hours before being smoked again. I did not take particularly good care
of these pipes; in fact, I smoked much more aggressively and kept my
tobacco more moist than usual. After two or three weeks, the pipes
began to taste a bit "off," indicating that they were being smoked too
frequently. Increasing the number of pipes to eight fixed the problem.
It appears that a good quality pipe may, with minimal care, be smoked
once a week virtually indefinitely without ill effects. Your mileage
will almost certainly vary. If you smoke slowly and take good care of
your pipes you can undoubtedly get by with a much smaller collection."
The problem with having only a minimal number of pipes is that you
risk getting locked into a rigid, anal-retentive,
"if-it's-Tuesday-it-must-be-Savinelli" rotation scheme. With a larger
collection, you can smoke your pipes as the mood strikes you without
fear of oversmoking any of them. Of course, you'll also want a few
pipes for outdoor activities, and you'll want a few more that fit
comfortably in a pocket for nights on the town, a few really large
pipes for reading or television watching, etc. As they say, you really
can't have too many pipes.
3.13 Can I Make My Own Pipes?
Of course you can. In fact, many people do. Some smokers buy "kits"
with pre-drilled bowls and ready-made stems that they shape and
finish; others prefer to produce their pipes "from scratch." The
details of how to make a pipe are beyond the scope of this FAQ, but
here are two sources of pipemaking supplies and information that can
help you get started:
Stemco-Pimo, Inc.
Butternut Lane
P.O. Box 2043
Manchester Center, VT 05255
(802) 362-3371
American Smoking Pipe Co.
POB 13, 300 High Street
Wolf Creek, MT 59648
http://www.AmSmoke.com/
4. Pipe Resources On The 'Net.
There are many sources for information on pipes and pipe smoking on
the Internet, and more are popping up all the time. The two listed
below will get you to all the rest.
Steve Masticola's "Pipes Digest" is a mailing list that is a
"must-read" for every smoking 'Netizen. Send a message to
"pi...@pipes.org" and tell Steve that you'd like to subscribe. [FYI,
Steve Masticola is the creator of "alt.smokers.pipes."]
Steve Beaty's "Pipes WWW Page" is the ultimate online resource for the
pipe smoker. From here, you can subscribe to Pipes Digest, peruse back
issues of PD, or use a very efficient search engine to find topics of
interest. There are also links to just about everything on the
Internet related to pipes and pipe smoking:
http://www.pipes.org
ASP also has its own home page, where you can find a wealth of
information, including FAQ's, bio's, classic posts, merchant links, an
extensive shapes chart, and much more:
http://www.aspipes.org/
5. Acknowledgments, Etc.
Thanks to Sami Mikhail, who wrote the first version of this FAQ, and
to Mike Gillman, Jeff Folloder, and Ian Rastall, who revised it and
later handed it off to me. I only hope I haven't butchered it too
badly.
Disclaimer: Everything in this document may be wrong. Don't even think
about blaming me if something breaks, blows up, runs away, or falls
off. Face it; life is a dangerous business. Copyright 2003 by Tony
Coronado, all rights reserved. This FAQ may be freely copied for
personal use and may be posted to any non-commercial web site, ftp
site, or BBS as long as it is left completely intact, to include this
copyright statement. This FAQ may not be included in collections or
compilations without permission and may not be distributed for
financial gain.
Tony Coronado
Robert
Feb 27, 2012, 6:25:19 PM2/27/12
to
On Feb 26, 2:26 am, Allen Lloyd <al...@ohiovalleycollect.com> wrote:
> *******************************
> ASP Frequently Asked Questions
> *******************************
>
> This FAQ concerns information about pipes, tobacco, and pipe smoking.
> This is a dynamic document subject to change. If you have an
> addition, revision, or deletion that you think needs to be taken, post
> your thoughts on this thread. The FAQ's will be posted weekly. The
> source of this FAQ is from an archived version dated about February
> 2005.
>
> Visit the ASP website athttp://www.aspipes.com/for a version that is
> *******************************
> ASP Frequently Asked Questions
> *******************************
>
> This FAQ concerns information about pipes, tobacco, and pipe smoking.
> This is a dynamic document subject to change. If you have an
> addition, revision, or deletion that you think needs to be taken, post
> your thoughts on this thread. The FAQ's will be posted weekly. The
> source of this FAQ is from an archived version dated about February
> 2005.
>
an email saying I had to post a thread first before you could use
them. So it might be nice if you would add that caveat to your
posting.
Robert
Allen Lloyd
Feb 28, 2012, 8:43:47 AM2/28/12
to
<SNIP>
changed. Enough with the politics. If you'd rather take control of
FAQs, I'll send you the files or you can take them from the postings
and go from there. ASP members in the past put a lot of work into
these so if you want to re-write go ahead but only changes accepted by
ASP members will get published on the website. Your input is welcomed
as these FAQ's are probably a little out of date. So if you, or
anyone else, wants modifications made. Post what you want. Right
here on ASP.
=====================================
As noted on the ASP website:
http://aspipes.com/Menu%20Pages/FAQ.htm
Over the years there have been several Frequently Asked Questions
(FAQ) documents that were created for the pipe smoking enthusiast on
ASP. The FAQ's presented here are from an archived copy dated
2/4/2005.
The FAQ's are subject to change. Change requests must be posted on
the alt.smokers.pipes (ASP) newsgroup for open discussion prior to
being incorporated into the master document. The current FAQ's will
be posted to ASP newsgroup on a weekly schedule.
=====================================
So if you have problems with the FAQs, just start a new thread for the
ones you want updated, just as they were changed in the past. Since
the FAQ's belong to ASP there should be open discussion concerning
changes, as noted on the FAQ Page.
AL ...
>
>
>The last time you posted this I gave you some thoughts and you sent me
>an email saying I had to post a thread first before you could use
>them. So it might be nice if you would add that caveat to your
>posting.
>
>Robert
Robert, if you have problems with the FAQs just post what you want
>
>The last time you posted this I gave you some thoughts and you sent me
>an email saying I had to post a thread first before you could use
>them. So it might be nice if you would add that caveat to your
>posting.
>
>Robert
changed. Enough with the politics. If you'd rather take control of
FAQs, I'll send you the files or you can take them from the postings
and go from there. ASP members in the past put a lot of work into
these so if you want to re-write go ahead but only changes accepted by
ASP members will get published on the website. Your input is welcomed
as these FAQ's are probably a little out of date. So if you, or
anyone else, wants modifications made. Post what you want. Right
here on ASP.
=====================================
As noted on the ASP website:
http://aspipes.com/Menu%20Pages/FAQ.htm
Over the years there have been several Frequently Asked Questions
(FAQ) documents that were created for the pipe smoking enthusiast on
ASP. The FAQ's presented here are from an archived copy dated
2/4/2005.
The FAQ's are subject to change. Change requests must be posted on
the alt.smokers.pipes (ASP) newsgroup for open discussion prior to
being incorporated into the master document. The current FAQ's will
be posted to ASP newsgroup on a weekly schedule.
=====================================
So if you have problems with the FAQs, just start a new thread for the
ones you want updated, just as they were changed in the past. Since
the FAQ's belong to ASP there should be open discussion concerning
changes, as noted on the FAQ Page.
AL ...
Robert
Feb 28, 2012, 5:59:02 PM2/28/12
to
Robert, if you have problems with the FAQs just post what you want
> changed. Enough with the politics. If you'd rather take control of
> FAQs, I'll send you the files or you can take them from the postings
> and go from there. ASP members in the past put a lot of work into
> these so if you want to re-write go ahead but only changes accepted by
> ASP members will get published on the website. Your input is welcomed
> as these FAQ's are probably a little out of date. So if you, or
> anyone else, wants modifications made. Post what you want. Right
> here on ASP.
I already did exactly that, e.g. posted my recommendations on ASP the
> changed. Enough with the politics. If you'd rather take control of
> FAQs, I'll send you the files or you can take them from the postings
> and go from there. ASP members in the past put a lot of work into
> these so if you want to re-write go ahead but only changes accepted by
> ASP members will get published on the website. Your input is welcomed
> as these FAQ's are probably a little out of date. So if you, or
> anyone else, wants modifications made. Post what you want. Right
> here on ASP.
last time you posted the FAQ. It was YOU who contacted me by email and
stated I needed to start a separate thread on the subject before any
changes could be made.
I never said I wanted to take control but if you going to ask for our
suggestions then state that before
you accept them we have to start a separate threads on ASP.
R
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