Star Trek model kit (18" USS Enterprise)

[Patrick Maguire]

I recently bought one of the 18" USS Enterprise kits when I was on holidays
in America, I have a very low budget (to low to invest in an airbrush and
internal electrics for the model) I would like some tips on how to get as
realistic as possible appearance to the model using just media such as paint
etc. I would especially like to know how a can get the opaque front of the
warp drive engines to appear light without replacing the domes with
transparent ones (I don't have the experience to do this by cutting up the
sections of the model). I would like to have a weathered feel to the
model, I presume for this I could use ground up chalk pastel but how can I
stop this from wiping of when at a later data I decide to clean dust off the
model?

I am 25 years old, I have had some previous experience with models when I
was young but then I stopped a few years ago to concentrate on secondary
(Irish equivalent of High) school and my college education. Now that I have
my degree I want to get back into this hobby and would greatly appreciate
any help.

Patrick

[Rich civil]

Hi Patrick;

I thought I'ld give my two cents to your questions. I have 2nd piolot
version that is almost done.
In reguard to hull color, I used Camouflage gray (FS# 36622) from
Testors/ model masters. It comes in a spray can and is widely available.
(at least here in the UD, not sure about overseas). I like the color for
warm off white color it gives.
For the front of the warp engines I used a copper base colort and then
clear red on top of that and a clear gloss on top of that. If you are
doing a production version you could paint/draw the fan effect on before
adding the clear red cloat. A good tip here is to try the combination of
layers on some scrap plastic before you put any paint on the kit.
Now, the greid lines. These should all be sanded off the saucer section.
The little round impressions on the bottom should be fille in. Again
depending on what version of the ship you want to make would determine
if you add these back. The circles on the bottom can be put back later
with a pencil and compas. The main grid lines onm the top saucer and the
secondary hull onlty appeared on the model in it's later life. Many
modelers decide to leave them off entirely. Any pencil or pastel chalk
weathering can be sealed with a clear coat of spray paint.
A couple of oddseggestions. Use a custom decal set from either Federation
models or Thomas models. Also, paint the slightly darker than hull color
band on the front of rthe dorsal between the saucer section and the
secondary hull. Also, a "homing becon needs to be added to the baclk of
the secondary hull over the hanger bay. I'm still working on a good
method for this one.

here are some good sites for information
http://culttvman.com/index2.html
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/
http://thomasmodels.com/
http://www.federationmodels.com/