Honda ANF125 Innova

[Mike]

Hello Everybody.

My daughter has an ANF125, and we're planning to do a chain and sprockets job on it.
Unfortunately though, we have no manual! Does anyone know how difficult it's likely to
be, and has anyone got a clue what the torque wrench settings should be?

Any advice very gratefully received.

Mike

[paul c]

Also, I believe there is a Passport/Cub yahoo group with a link to the
early 1980's manual pdf. Alternatively, you might find that the Honda
Common Service Manual for which a search will turn up several 1980's
bootleg pdfs will have everything you need, ie., information about
sprockets and chains as well as torque settings for fasteners of various
strengths and sizes.

Lee wrote:
> Basically the same arrangement as the Honda Cub 90/70 and 50 !!!
>
> The Innova is basically a re-worked Cub, if you can acquire a Cub manual
> you won`t go far wrong ... :o))
>
> Regards...
>
> Lee..
>
> "Mike" <hawk...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
> news:Mo-dnSFj-d4FKEza...@bt.com...

[Mike G]

In article <Mo-dnSFj-d4FKEza...@bt.com>,
"Mike" <hawk...@btinternet.com> wrote:

Rear Brake Torque Link: 7-14 ft-lb
Driven Flange Sleeve Nut: 29-36 ft-lb
Rear Axle Nut: 29-36 ft-lb
Driven Sprocket Studs: 14-18 ft-lb
Rear Shock Mounts: 14-22 ft-lb
Swingarm Pivot: 22-29 ft-lb

The service manual on the Honda C70 Yahoo group should show you how to
do the job. You'll need to join the group to see it.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Honda-C70/files/C70%2080-81%20Passpor
t%20Shop%20Manual%20%28JPEG%29/C70%2080-81%20Passport%20Shop%20Manual%20%
28JPEG%29/132.jpg

"Torque Link" is the bar that anchors the rear brake panel to the
swingarm.

"Driven Flange" is the rotating carrier for the rear sprocket that keys
into the 'cush' drive in the rear hub. It has a separate, larger nut
anchoring it to the swingarm behind the smaller axle nut.

Sprocket studs are usually used to anchor the sprocket to the driven
flange, but on some bikes the sprocket is riveted onto four posts, and
there's nothing to remove. If there are locking tabs keeping the studs
or nuts from rotating - bend them away from the hex heads carefully if
you plan to reuse them. A sharp chisel or flat-blade screwdriver will
help you bend them away from the head. If they are new, or relatively
undamaged in removal - they may be able to to be re-used. Otherwise, you
will need new ones. If those bolts come loose - there will be a mess
made.

The rest is self-explanatory.

I recommend an impact driver (hammer blow assisted screwdriver) and the
proper size tight-fitting screwdriver bit or wrench socket to remove the
countershaft sprocket cover and retaining flange.

The screw/bolt heads there are notoriously easy to strip.

Mike G.
-

[Lee]

"paul c" <toled...@ac.ooyah> wrote in message
news:goyBj.71386$w94.70319@pd7urf2no...

Did Mike even bother to ackowledge our help Paul ???

Lee...