THRU HULLS
Bobsprit
I'm changing all of the thru hulls on my Pearson 30. I consider it cheap
insurance on a boat more than 20 years old. I see that many supply houses are
now selling "plastic" thru hulls and seacocks. They are priced pretty close to
the brass units.
Does anyone know if they offer advantages over the traditional type???
Thanx,
Robert B
P30 NY
Pony Express
>
>I'm changing all of the thru hulls on my Pearson 30. I consider it cheap
>insurance on a boat more than 20 years old.
Pony Express
Express 30
www.angelfire.com/pe/ponyexpress
Pony Express
>
>I'm changing all of the thru hulls on my Pearson 30.
Bob, Didn't you tell capt neal that the through-hulls on your pearson had been
replaced? I recall this came up when you cited the Jack Horner review of the
P30 stating that the through-hull were poor and should be replaced.
Rich Hampel
following reasons:
1. will not dissipate a lightning strike.
2. will hydrolyse over time (degrade); hydrolysis is the breakdown of the polymer
molecular cross linking - weakened.
Pearson used some very high quality BRONZE thru-hulls and seacocks..... why not
remove, dye-penetrant inspect, clean up the valves, etc. to see if they have
"de-Zinc-ed" themselves. Dye penetrant can be obtained from most industrial
supply houses..... soak the part in the dye, spray on the developer, look for
thin red lines indicating cracks, etc. Then sand the (external) surfaces with
120 grit sandpaper; if a 'copper' color/blush shows, it means the metal has lost
it's zinc and needs to be replaced.
You can recondition the internals of the plug type seacocks with automotive valve
grinding and lapping compound - automotive store stuff.
Also, Pearson did not use adequate backing plates on the thru-hulls.... its a
good time to epoxy-in good thru-hull backing plates. Also you might consider to
cut-out the silly "drain tube" from the galley sink and replace with a proper
seacock and thruhull.
I'd stick with BRONZE, not asian bronze, only USA or western european bronze.
I'd insist on knowing the country of origin, or I'd not buy it.
Certainly, I'd not buy on price..... ;or, you risk: "in come de ocean".
I apologise for the boat related reply on this NG.
Bobsprit wrote:
> I take a great risk by asking a sailing related question here, but....
>
> I'm changing all of the thru hulls on my Pearson 30. I consider it cheap
Mundo
>I take a great risk by asking a sailing related question here, but....
>
>I'm changing all of the thru hulls on my Pearson 30. I consider it cheap
>insurance on a boat more than 20 years old. I see that many supply houses are
>now selling "plastic" thru hulls and seacocks. They are priced pretty close to
>the brass units.
>Does anyone know if they offer advantages over the traditional type???
>
>Thanx,
>
>Robert B
>P30 NY
I am a big fan of bronze. They can easily be reconditioned and will
last the life of the boat. On the other hand I recently re did the
plumbing on my boat and looked at apollo style valves in the West
catalog. I ended up buying the identical valve at the local true value
for $5 and change about a 1/5 the west price. They had a catalog of
other valves. Go check out the local hardware. You will be surprised.
I have an Apollo valve as a thru hull on my head. The rest are bronze.
Mundo
"The captain who is a bully and an ass"
Bobsprit
I apologise for the boat related reply on this NG.>>
Thanks for the usefull info! I replaced the thru hulls, but haven't put them
in...I was wondering if I should trade them back for the plastic stuff, but I
guess I'll keep them.
At least a few people are interested in talking about sailing.
Robert B
P30 NY
bob
Bobsprit wrote:
| I take a great risk by asking a sailing related question here, but....
| I'm changing all of the thru hulls on my Pearson 30. I consider it cheap
| insurance on a boat more than 20 years old. I see that many supply houses
are
| now selling "plastic" thru hulls and seacocks. They are priced pretty
close to
| the brass units.
| Does anyone know if they offer advantages over the traditional type???
| Thanx,
| Robert B
| P3 NY
Ask your insurance agent about the plastic ones. Have heard HORROR stories
about plastics failing and then not being covered by the insurance because
the plastic ones were never "approved" And DON"T set them with
polyeeurothane (3M 5200) unless you are NEVER, EVER going to remove them.
bob
Bobsprit
Ask your insurance agent about the plastic ones. Have heard HORROR stories
about plastics failing and then not being covered by the insurance because
the plastic ones were never "approved">>
I did speak to the people at Boat US and they didn't seem to care either way!
My surveyor buddy said I wasted money replacing the old ones, but I wanted the
new lever types. Guess I'll keep them and install come spring.
Thanks again,
Robert B
P30 NY
Fred Munter
advantage. They are prone to the intrusion of water on the molecular level
which degrades the plastic, making them prone to splitting,cracking etc.
Stick with bronze! (Not Brass)
Bobsprit <bobs...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000105083641...@ng-ck1.aol.com...
> I take a great risk by asking a sailing related question here, but....
>
> I'm changing all of the thru hulls on my Pearson 30. I consider it cheap
> insurance on a boat more than 20 years old. I see that many supply houses
are
> now selling "plastic" thru hulls and seacocks. They are priced pretty
close to
> the brass units.
> Does anyone know if they offer advantages over the traditional type???
>
> Thanx,
>
> Robert B
Capt. Neal®
propped-up-on-stands-in-a-frozen-yard derelict been called
sailing? Putz! You really showed your stupidity this time.
Even considering not using bronze (not brass, you fool) and
actually considering plastic is something not even an
inexperienced two-year-old would consider. Your boat will be
an even worse sinker than I had imagined if you are as
ignorant about other aspects of building a proper boat as
you appear to be when you ask just about any boat repair
question.
Respectfully,
Capt. Neal
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Bobsprit wrote in message
<20000105104534...@ng-fg1.aol.com>...
captk...@webtv.net
>I am a big fan of bronze. They can easily be
>reconditioned and will last the life of the boat.
>On the other hand I recently re did the
>plumbing on my boat and looked at apollo
>style valves in the West catalog. I ended up
>buying the identical valve at the local true
>value for $5 and change about a 1/5 the west
>price. They had a catalog of other valves. Go
>check out the local hardware. You will be
>surprised. I have an Apollo valve as a thru hull
>on my head. The rest are bronze. Mundo
Mundo,
I hope you realize Apollo makes many different valves, and ordered
"Marine" valves as the ball valves are virtually indistinguishable, the
BIG difference being the _composition_ of the BALL, depending on the
use, the balls mght be stainless, chrome plated bronze, chrome plated
brass, chrome plated zinc, etc. etc,etc, (the _marine_ ones use
chrome-plated-bronze balls and comply with ABYC H-27 ) --find somebody
with a collection of Practical Sailors; I think they did a write up on
all the different valves Apollo makes and distributes and why you should
ONLY buy your boats ball valves from marine hardware suppliers =
(APOLLOS ADVICE!!!!!)
yep, hardware garden variety ball valves are just that, you get what you
pay for.....
I would advise others to shop around but to use Marine suppliers .
During the required haulout inspection of the inspected vessel I ran
the USCG required I _remove_ all thru hull valves and disassemble the
seacocks for inspection !
personally I won't use the high tech glassfiber reinforced Marelon or
other plastic fittings below the water line as I feel the only reason to
do so would be weight related for the ultra racers (I don't cut my tooth
brushes in half to save weight either)
for more info see:
Ocean Navigator Sept 1996
Good Old Boat premier issue 1998
-page 8
Seacocks and Marine metals--what you can't see can hurt you,
-page 9
Thru-hull fittings
(refs the prac. Sailor article so for more info on the Aplollo valves I
would look in 98 PS index for a ref to ball valves/thruhulls)
The best humor I find posted at Alt.sail.asa is neither profane or
insulting or offensive.
bobsprits attempts at humor are 99% purposefully profane,insulting and
offensive,
In other words bob when you post your drivel you are getting laughed
_at_ not laughed _with_
Bobsprit
sailing? Putz! You really showed your stupidity this time.>>
The whining little crybaby with the ugly toy boat returns! But not with
anything of value to add.
Thanks to the others, of course!
Robert B
P30 NY
eric
sailpon...@aol.comnomail (Pony Express) wrote:
> >I take a great risk by asking a sailing related question here,
but....
> >
>
> >I'm changing all of the thru hulls on my Pearson 30. I consider it
cheap
> >insurance on a boat more than 20 years old.
>
Actually, it was very considerate of you to ask this. After all, you
could have done a search of this topic and found many such relatively
recent threads. At least you've given them something to go off about
again:-).
--
eric
S/V Nebaras
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
Capt. Chub
You are to be congratulated, with the exception of Capt. Neal, for some
really great responses to this thread. Even though, I have seen this
thread before, I felt the responses to this one were the best I have
seen.
I have been thinking of installing thru hulls in my Macgregor 26X to
replace the cheap glassed pipe to hose on the sink drains and this is
good info regarding that.
Good sailing,
Capt. Chub
In article <OjQc4.2520$t6.54...@news.optonline.net>,
"Fred Munter" <fmu...@optonline.net> wrote:
> Other than being cheaper and not being subject to electrolysis they
have no
> advantage. They are prone to the intrusion of water on the molecular
level
> which degrades the plastic, making them prone to splitting,cracking
etc.
> Stick with bronze! (Not Brass)
> Bobsprit <bobs...@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:20000105083641...@ng-ck1.aol.com...
> > I take a great risk by asking a sailing related question here,
but....
> >
> > I'm changing all of the thru hulls on my Pearson 30. I consider it
cheap
> > insurance on a boat more than 20 years old. I see that many supply
houses
> are
> > now selling "plastic" thru hulls and seacocks. They are priced
pretty
> close to
> > the brass units.
> > Does anyone know if they offer advantages over the traditional
type???
> >
> > Thanx,
> >
> > Robert B
> > P30 NY
>
>
Mundo
>
>Mundo,
>I hope you realize Apollo makes many different valves, and ordered
>"Marine" valves as the ball valves are virtually indistinguishable, the
>BIG difference being the _composition_ of the BALL,
Yes good point. I used 3 of these on my fresh water system. The one I
used on the head was selected from the catalog for apollo and was good
for the purpose of a thru hull. Same model# as west.30% less.
Bobsprit
thread before, I felt the responses to this one were the best I have
seen.>>
Yup, asside from Neal, a few people here can actually provide useful and well
mannered responses.
Robert B
P30 NY
Capt. Neal®
Chubby,
The standard production bronze thru hulls will not work on a
Mac26.
The reason is that the threads cannot be milled the entire
way to the flange because of the type of die used. When the
threads are cut, there remains a gap of about 1/32 of an
inch. No matter how hard one tries to tighten the nut, it
bottoms out on the area where there are no threads cut and,
therefore the thru hull will never tighten down on your hull
which is 1/64 of an inch thick.
I hope this helps.
Respectfully,
Capt. Neal
~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Capt. Chub wrote in message <852lf9$5nu$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>...
>Dear Group,
>
>You are to be congratulated, with the exception of Capt.
Neal, for some
>really great responses to this thread. Even though, I have
seen this
>thread before, I felt the responses to this one were the
best I have
>seen.
>
Bobsprit
bottoms out on the area where there are no threads cut and,
therefore the thru hull will never tighten down on your hull
which is 1/64 of an inch thick.>>>
When did Mac26X get the thicker hull???
Robert B
P30 NY
edgar cove
<bobs...@aol.com> writes
> Even though, I have seen this
>thread before, I felt the responses to this one were the best I have
>seen.>>
>
>mannered responses.
>
>Robert B
>P30 NY
Bobsprit, you are doing yourself no favours here.
Neal has only posted once to this thread and in it said that bronze is
the only material that should be considered for thruhulls and plastic
ones are to be avoided.
That is damn good advice that you ignore at your peril if you seriously
consider that your boat is a seagoing one.
Few of us agree with all that Neal says but some of his posts are
correct and helpful and that was one of them.
You seem to disagree with anything Neal says on principle but you need
to be more selective than that.
--
edgar (remove nospam from return address for e-mail reply)
Thomas Stewart
Yes. ........
Thom
Bobsprit
correct and helpful and that was one of them.
You seem to disagree with anything Neal says on principle but you need
to be more selective than that.>>>
Edgar. You are clearly an idiot who couldn't get laid in a morgue. Neal
disagrees with nearly every post here, so kindly climb out of his butthole. I'm
pretty sure he only likes women.
Robert B
P30 NY
Capt. Chub
You may be off by a millimeter or two, not to worry, though.
They have a new invention, called the backing plate.
Capt. Chub
In article <0R8d4.11173$905.2...@news5.giganews.com>,
"Capt. Neal®" <Capt...@Bigfoot.com> wrote:
>
>
> Chubby,
>
> The standard production bronze thru hulls will not work on a
> Mac26.
>
> The reason is that the threads cannot be milled the entire
> way to the flange because of the type of die used. When the
> threads are cut, there remains a gap of about 1/32 of an
> inch. No matter how hard one tries to tighten the nut, it
> bottoms out on the area where there are no threads cut and,
> therefore the thru hull will never tighten down on your hull
> which is 1/64 of an inch thick.
>
> I hope this helps.
>
> Respectfully,
> Capt. Neal
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> Capt. Chub wrote in message <852lf9$5nu$1...@nnrp1.deja.com>...
> >Dear Group,
> >
> >You are to be congratulated, with the exception of Capt.
> Neal, for some
> >really great responses to this thread. Even though, I have
> seen this
> >thread before, I felt the responses to this one were the
> best I have
> >seen.
> >