1/8" plywood
chris
sheets for my UH-10F deck and cockpit. Every person I ask looks at me
like I'm crazy! They say the best they can do for me is vaneer in that
thin a thicness. Do they really make this stuff? Am I incorrect in
asking for 1/8" plywood or should I be asking for something else by
another "trademark" name.The stuff I have come across is luan
(spelling?) and is 1/4" thick and don't want to use it due to the
extra weight it might add to my hovercraft.Someone set me straight on
this so I can get back to the business of construction. need a little
help here! thanks to all who contribute. chris
hoverflyte
as "door skin" which is a thin plywood veneer for recovering doors. Also
used in some cases to resurface cabinets and such. It's similar to luan but
is thinner.
Doug
"chris" <miss...@msn.com> wrote in message
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Dave
Here in the Detroit area I found a place that sells just plywood. The
stuff that I got for my UH12T4 is 3 mm luan mahogony. It is for
interior use or so they say. I know exactly what you mean by the dumb
looks you get from people. I know that some builders have used 1/8"
paneling, but I didn't want those "lines" in my craft. I think that I
got lucky, as the cost is around $8.35 a sheet for 4'x8'. You may
want to check with a building supply place that handles large amounts
of lumber. They might be able to get you some of the stuff I have, or
order it for you. Hope that helps you out...
Dave
Dave Schneider
expensive way to do it and I think most people go that route. I have no
idea how it'll hold up to a marine application. However, it does have the
saving grace of being encapsulated and it's never "really" in the water.
:-)
The most expensive method is to use marine grade 1/8" mahogany plywood.
They use this stuff for building the stitch-and-glue type kayaks. I messed
up one sheet of plywood on my UH13P and got one of these sheets as a
replacement. You won't find this stuff at Menards. I bought this at a
shop that sold Chesapeake Bay kayak kits. Check out Marine shops that deal
in wood boats This stuff may be horribly expensive bit it is REALLY nice.
Absolutely perfectly sanded. I wish my whole hovercraft was built with
this stuff. Almost a shame to paint it.
"chris" <miss...@msn.com> wrote in message
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Doug Birlingmair
Doug
miss...@msn.com (chris) wrote in message news:<e54fb711.02080...@posting.google.com>...
Dave Schneider
marine grade ply was expensive!
"David Courtney" <adv...@powercom.net> wrote in message
news:aijr2e$14mnk5$1...@ID-70857.news.dfncis.de...
> Military spec 1/8" aircraft plywood is available from Wick's Aircraft
> Supply... but it's expensive!
> http://www.wicksaircraft.com/gotopage.php?page=7
> David
>
> "chris" <miss...@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:e54fb711.02080...@posting.google.com...
Hovermark
somewhere between 1/8" and 1/4". It is as light as 1/8 marine grade plywood.
I forget the actual weight, but did compare them. However, the marine grade
is most likely a better plywood.
The weight difference is important if you will be near maximum payload, or
maybe if you intend to race. I think you would not loose more than 10 lbs of
payload by using 1/4 ply.
--
Mark Clark
http://hovermark.tripod.com
Member of The Hovercraft Cruising Club
www.hovercruiser.net
Member # 5879 of Hoverclub of America
www.hoverclubofamerica.org
"chris" <miss...@msn.com> wrote in message
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G.T.&C.
"Hovermark" <mlclark...@gte.net> wrote in message
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Gloom
Alien
when I asked for 1/8 Laun.
You could find it at Home Depot. It`s 1/8 (3mm) laun for door skin.
It`s interior use but with a coat of Epoxy Resin on both side it
become waterproof. Price around 8.50 $ a 4X8 sheet.
I complete a UH 10T2, it`s almost finish.
Serge G.
Quebec Canada
Darryl Jenkins
Since I see this question arise so many times I thought I would share the
information passed on to me.
When making my first enquiries for plywood I then questioned the difference
between the standard plys and marine ply, the reply from the suppliers
technical person was much like this....
*****Both standard ply's and marine ply use the same glue!!*****
All sheets of plywood come in varying thickness and also varying surface
finish., eg, A-B, B-C, C-D
These letters mean the final outer veneers have one good side and the other
a grade below.
C-D is the general handyman grade supplied here (Western Austalia).
Next is the structural strength of the veneerers.
The grade is also deternined by the quality of the veneer within the sheet.
There is a limit on knot holes and the size and proximity to another knot
hole, and also the degree of filler that is alowed.
As the grades become higher (A-B) the structural integrity of the total
laminate becomes stronger, another part of this equation is the thickness of
each veneer.
In a general grade (C-D) sheet of 10mm (3/8") it may be 5 ply. This can be
made up of various thickness of veneer sheet laminated with the grains
criss-crossing.
eg.
Layer 1 - 0.5mm thick. grade C
Layer 2 - 2.5mm thick. grade E
Layer 3 - 3.5mm thick. grade E
Layer 4 - 2.5mm thick. grade E
Layer 5 - 1.0mm thick. grade D
as the grades of finish and strength increases the the uniformity of grade,
finish and quality of each veneer increases to the point where a 10mm (3/8")
A-B marine grade sheet may look like this.....
Layer 1 - 2.0mm thick. grade A
Layer 2 - 2.0mm thick. grade B
Layer 3 - 2.0mm thick. grade B
Layer 4 - 2.0mm thick. grade B
Layer 5 - 2.0mm thick. grade B
each of the veneers would have minimal or no knot holes, and no filler in
gaps amongst the sheet.
The structural integrity of the sheet would be very high because there were
minimal defect withing the selected veneers, and so this sheet would be a
lot more expensive.
In Australia they use various types of timbers to create the veneers, Pinus
Radiata and Hoop Pine being popular, the difference is one has knots the
other virtualy none.
I hope this helps clarify some of the questions as to the suitability of
using Luan, Pine and other types of plywoods.
Just remember the glue line is the same thru all, it is the structural
strength which increases with the quality and all will need to be sealed or
treated in the final scheme of it all.
E&OE
This is to the best of my knowledge as told to me by the Plywood Technical
Rep. of one of our timber mills.
Regards
Darryl Jenkins
Perth Western Australia
"chris" <miss...@msn.com> wrote in message
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Dave Schneider
"G.T.&C." <greg...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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Dave Schneider
marine grade to $120 aviation grade.
"Ken Roberts" <k...@kroberts.in.9ci.com> wrote in message
news:slrnakr5v...@kroberts.in.9ci.com...
> well, think about it dave.
>
> you've just built your first craft. i have yet to complete any of mine,
in
> spite of multiple starts. for you and i, at this particular time, these
prices
> are a bit beyond what we call reasonable.
>
> on the other hand, if someone has several under his/her belt and wants to
make
> a really nice one, they might want to throw a few extra bucks at it so it
will
> be stronger and/or last longer. i think my uh-18 takes 7 sheets. that's
a
> substantive amount of cash, but if your other source calls it $40 for the
> equivalent of a 4x8 sheet of door skins, then the difference is $60 a
sheet.
> you're paying two and a half times the money for a stronger or nicer hull.
in
> just plywood.
>
> i can see myself doing that at some point, if i ever decide to make a
really
> nice craft. but i wanna have a "normal" one first. some people obviously
just
> want them to work no matter how many they've built, and i'm not sure where
my
> inclinations will go. i know my dad, a career woodworker, wouldn't
hesitate to
> starve himself for a while to get the better wood. he's like that.
David Bosworth
luan,,,thats way to much of a weight hit,, being 12.5 feet and using around
eight sheets ply ( I bought more than that) the cost difference would build
another complete hull,, as it is now I could strip off some extra things I
added (we all do it) and be way, way under the weight spec's for the craft
as designed,, so which is better,, hmmm...
any body know what a sheet of aviation grade 1/8 ply weighs in at?
Dave B
"Dave Schneider" <schne...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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Dave Schneider
12lbs, 3/32 @ 10#. So what does a sheet of luan weigh, marine weigh?
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"Gloom" <gl...@globetrotter.net> wrote in message
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DICK FAY
plywood if you were out in the middle of the lake and your boat came apart.
They spec Okume for a reason. Boats are no place to go economical. Planes
either for that matter. Just remember this saying when you want to deviate
from the reccomendations. "there are old pilots and there are bold pilots,
but there are no old bold pilots".
don't cut corners in such an important area. In Detroit, Public lumber
sells Okume 3mm for about $61 per sheet. The difference for a small craft
between okume and luan would be about $300. Which doesn't go very far when
you are watching your boat fall apart when it gets wet.
"Dave Schneider" <schne...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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David Bosworth
about 3/32,, after a coulple of months of not working on the hover I picked
up two sheets of 1/8 for the rear deck from the same source and after
fitting them (of course!!) found them to be true 1/8 with a different core
materia, not nearly as bendy and i believe that they wre around 12 or 13
pounds per sheet, not using the whole sheet on each side I used them
anyway,,wish i had not,, but the deck is very strong in this area
more than likely took a 5lb hit there,, in the back,,dam
David Bosworth
"David Bosworth" <da...@premier1.net> wrote in message
news:ul7r63g...@corp.supernews.com...
> Ken
>
> Well,, your posts are showing on my machine again,, go figger,,
> I was told the same thing by chinnook lumber, all ply using the same glue
> with a different core, I suppose it is not cost effective to change out a
> huge vat of glue each time you change runs.
> The material they use for the core can make a huge difference in weight
> though but is more likely to make a tight bend without cracking due to the
> lack of voids,, I was hoping to pick up a load of 1/8 (interior) for my
next
> build this week and get a weight on it but it did'nt happen, maybe I will
> weigh a sq. ft. of it and do the math and report to the group. I will bet
> though that if I had used the marine ply on the hover I would have an over
> weight craft and spent alot more to do it!!
> I have left this stuff out in the weather by the burn pile for months on
end
> without any delamination.
> I also build stitch and glue dory style kayak canoes out of this stuff in
> 1/4" and have suffered no ill effects yet.
>
> nice to see your posts again
> David Bosworth
> "Ken Roberts" <k...@kroberts.in.9ci.com> wrote in message
> news:slrnal7mt...@kroberts.in.9ci.com...
> > that i can agree with. i understood for a while now that exterior and
> marine
> > use the same glue. i thought that darryl was talking about interior
> grade,
> > though. looking at his post, it isn't exactly clear which he is
referring
> to
> > by "standard ply".
> >
> > i'm not sure if there's a difference between aircraft grade and marine
> grade.
> > i would think that if anything it would be better, but they might be the
> same
> > thing.
> >
> > anyone know?
> >
> >
> > On Fri, 09 Aug 2002 04:10:45 GMT, Robert Ball <rwba...@attbi.com>
wrote:
> > >It appears that Darryl is correct if the "regular" plywood is exterior
> grade. I
> > >learned from a boat building news group last year that exterior grade
and
> marine
> > >grade are the same glue, just the quality of the plies is better for
> marine
> > >grade. You shouldn't see a void when you cut marine, but you might
find
> one when
> > >you cut exterior (or interior) grade.
> > >
> > >Ken Roberts wrote:
> > >
> > >> darryl,
> > >>
> > >> thanks for the info here. but i think maybe american interior
plywoods
> do use
> > >> a different glue. i've seen a hull made with interior plywood that
got
> rained
> > >> on before it was done, and it delaminated all over the place. i've
> seen our
> > >> exterior plywood be rained on too, and it seems to hold up fine.
> > >>
> > >> i can't really say for sure one way or another, but it's something
i'd
> want
> > >> validation of before i built a hovercraft out of interior plywood.
Dave Schneider
"Ken Roberts" <k...@kroberts.in.9ci.com> wrote in message
news:slrnal851...@kroberts.in.9ci.com...
> david,
>
> i don't know what to say. i suspect that some lumber companies have more
than
> one line for producing plywood, and probably have different lines for
interior
> and exterior glues. other companies may do it another way.
>
> i know that i have seen some plywoods that delaminate when getting wet.
more
> than that i can't say. i've made assumptions that these are "interior
grade"
> and the ones that don't delaminate as quickly are "exterior grade". if
the
> stuff you use is not delaminating, then that's the real thing to worry
about.
>
>
> On Fri, 9 Aug 2002 09:19:09 -0700, David Bosworth <da...@premier1.net>
wrote: