It's 2 lenses: the kit lens and the tele kit lens. Not even
bad optically, but really cheap. And cheap means there are
some ... compromises to be made.
And the 18-55 is NOT the STM variant which the camera is
supporting well.
Note: No lens hood. Lens hoods are valuable for raising
contrast (less light from wrong directions hitting the front
lens) and protecting the lens (by physically being in the way
from larger things trying to hit the front lens). Buy lens
hoods.
The other 2 lenses are add on lenses for extreme wideangle
(0.43x => 18mm -> 8mm (12mm FF)) and strong tele (2.2x =>
250mm -> 550mm (880mm FF). Even high end converters (say a
Canon 2x for 500 USD) with great lenses suffer from a certain
image degradation; these are probably not usable for more
than 4x6 prints (~2 MPix) after repairing the distortion in
your computer. (Note that the Canon TCs work differently
from these add on lenses: the Canon TCs ge between lens and
body and influence the aperture, these add on lenses go in
front of the lens and don't affect the max aperture.)
The "+1, +2, +4, +10 Close Up Macro Kit" ("Double-threaded
allowing you to combine them to achieve increased
magnification") are not even achromats (else they'd have said
so) and are therefore not usable except for artistic, blurry,
strong coloured fringes uses.
The 3 filters: UV you don't need, flourescent you don't need at
all unless you're shooting film, the polarizer can be useful,
but then you want lenses that don't rotate while zooming
and focussing!
> The speedlight is minuscule and of
> uncertain manufacture.
That's no speedlight. It's a slave flash. If you're
shooting smaller things the full manual way (i.e. setting
flash power by changing the distance) it might be usable.
I'd advise against it; if you're short on cash buy a used,
cheaper camera and old flashes where you can at least select
the power manually.
> The auxiliary battery grip is something you probably
> don't need; they tend to be expensive, and they add weight.
It may be of value for those who shoot mostly in portrait
orientation (that would be me, for example) for the shutter
button and for those with big hands (that would be me, too).
But it's not an original Canon grip and may not have all the
buttons & wheels the oiginal has.
> A pro doing a long
> photo shoot might find it useful, although I routinely do shoots of 300 to 400
> images without one and almost never have to change batteries.
According to the CIPA method: 440 images using the
viewfinder, 180 using liveview.
I.e. more if you shoot lots in fast series, less if you chimp
a lot).
So if you're going for 500 or more shots a grip may be useful
(OTOH, changing batteries doesn't exactly take hours and hours.)
You'll find out and buy a grip then.
> The tripod may
> be worthwhile or a piece of junk, but without knowing who made it, it's
> probably not possible to tell.
It's a professional tripod, so it's lore likely junk.
> And I seem to recall that some early T4i's
> leached some messy chemical out of their hides. You certainly want to check
> the serial number to make sure this isn't one of them. That said, the Tni
> series of Canon cameras has a good reputation. My wife loves her T2i and gets
> excellent results with it.
> I think the T4i is still being made. How does this price compare with a
> similar configuration from B&H or Adorama?
The T4i (aka 650D aka Kiss X6i) is the same vintage as the 5D3
and just a month older than the 60Da. There's a T5i, but Canon
(USA) site still lists the T4i.
B&H says:
T4i (body) $683.50
Lexar 16 GB card Class 10
Bag/Holster
Cleaning Cloth (microfiber)
IR remote control
EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS II Lens $199.00
EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II Lens $299.00
=> 1181.50 USD
or use the better-for-video:
EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM Lens $249.00
instead: 1231.50 USD
Or this one:
T4i + 18-135mm IS STM Lens $1,149.00
Lexar 16 GB card Class 10
Bag/Holster
UV 'protection' filter[1]
Cleaning Cloth (microfiber)
IR remote control
lens cap holder
So for less than 48 USD extra you get
- a much better lens (and one that's way more capable at
video, i.e. focussing while filming, if that's your thing)
- no need to change lenses
and lose
- some tele range (from a cheap lens)
- 1 cheap (questionably reliably) 16 GB card
- 2 unusable extreme WA/tele add on lenses
- a set of unusable screw in lenses to make your lens myopic
- a very weak and hard to use slave flash (the camera has
a built in flash)
- a PL filter (of unknown vintage)
- 2 unneccessary filters
- a battery grip of unknown source
- a tripod of whom they dare not even mention the maker
- a camera backpack of unknown source
- a third-party charger
- a cheap card reader
- the chance to hold and handle the stuff before buying
to see if they fit my hands.
Personally, I'd go with the 18-135mm lens, or rather, I'd
go to a brick and motar store and hold the cameras all in my
hands and see which one agrees with me. Not only Canon, but
also Nikon and others. And think about micro-4/3rd cameras,
and the EOS M, and so on, and find out what I need in a camera.
(Turns out I'm a low-light, tele range shooter, but 200mm FF
(~130mm on a crop camera) is usually enough. Since I'm low
light, I have a 70-200mm f/2.8 IS (Version I) --- expensive
toy it is, heavy it is! --- and nowadays an FF camera (I was
hitting the ISO/low light limit of my 20D. Hard. Repeatedly.
Even with push processing). For the times I need more range
more than more light and can take a *slight* reduction in
image quality, there's a 1.4x and 2x TC.)
If this was (sort of) my first camera, I'd buy cheap and used,
probably a capable P&S (or lend a system from a friend) and find
out where I hit the limits of that camera --- and where not.
Do I need more tele? More wide angle? Shallower DOF? Better
low light capability? More resolution (!= more megapixels
--- you also need the glass to go with it)? A capable flash
system, off the optical axis, to avoid red eyes? Or freely
positionable slave flashes? Or just "more light" from them?
Or a tilt&swivel flash head, so I can bounce of the ceiling?
And so on and so on. And THEN I'd buy what I THEN know I need.
-Wolfgang
[1] if you're shooting where sand, mud, seaspray or similar
go flying, that may be useful. But then there are clear
protect filters, against mechanical damage a lens hood
is better and you probably want a weather sealed lens and
camera then as well.