purging the U-20's Rom HELP
C.L.
clean slate for downloading presets?
thanks!
craig
Larry KN4IM
wrote:
You could download to it a full ROM full of blanks, but what would be
the point?
Just send it a new set of patches and it'll write right over the ones
that are in it. It sort of erases as it goes...(c;
What kind of patches have you got? I just rebuilt one for a customer
and would like to surprise him.
The new keyboard switch strip works great, fyi. The connector became
separated causing errors when you played it on the old strip. Roland
has no more parts so substituted a new kind of strip with a REAL PLUG
and interconnect card, this time. Far better than that glued together
cable they used to use.
Larry Butler
Keyboard Service
Charleston SC
C.L.
tell me if I'm looking at it wrong. I turned on my U-20 a few weeks back
and got a "initializing memory" message. after that all my presets we're a
garbled mess (random ASCII characters on the LCD where part names used to
be). Worse yet, I was getting no sound. So I downloaded two patches from
Roland, the U-20 original presets and the alternate patch. When I
downloaded these to the keyboard it downloaded both sequentially. I ended
up with some sounds from the original factory patch (some of which don't
'sound' on every part of the keyboard i.e. only certain keys produce a
sound) and some I have never seen before(I'm sure from the alt. patch of
which none sound when played) the biggest problem is, I tried downloading
ONLY the original patch but it didn't erase the old, I'm still paging
through those new sounds that don't work. Any suggestions? Hope I didn't
ramble.
Thanks!
craig
Graham Howe
they tell me, it's going to cost £200 to put right. Let me know if you find
a solution, I might be in time to save myself 2oo pounds............
Graham
C.L. <Fei...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:37994B1F...@mindspring.com...
James Andrew
it's called initializing - and you can't and shouldn't ever try to purge ROM
those are the building blocks of the pcm sounds
you can purge the ram and performace sets
[been over 5 years since i had one, so i'm not up on 'em]
look for alexander publishing on the u20 - best damn manual for synths
the u20 manual that comes with it sucks - translated 1000 diff times..
latr,
j
C.L. <Fei...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:3797F11F...@mindspring.com...
Larry KN4IM
main computer board and MUST be functional before it'll store anything
for long. Remember this is OLD technology....really OLD. Commode
Door 64 OLD.
To get to the battery you must remove the bottom. The main board is
located under the midi connector board which must be removed first.
Be very careful of the KEYBOARD FLEXIBLE PRINTED CIRCUIT CABLE. I
waited 7 months for a replacement. ($70 and probably not available to
the general public). After you get the midi connector board loose,
fold it over the audio output board out of the way. After you get the
main board loose (don't forget the outside black screws on the back
for both boards), fold it up on the keyboard side, leaving the end
towards the rear panel down. The battery is a common Lithium from
Radio Shack and is mounted in a holder. Don't bother to measure it,
just replace it.
When you remove it, everything is GONE as the memory has no power.
When you reboot, only the piano in ROM will work (instrument 11).
Carefully reassemble the unit being SURE no cables are pinched under
screws, etc. It's a bitch. Now reload all the U-20 factory SYSEX
file you downloaded from Roland's website by playing it into the
keyboard from your computer's midi out port. Use media player, it
works fine. The instructions to do it right are:
Turn it all on and watch it boot up. Ignore any bad battery voltage
displays, we know the battery is new, thank you.
Enter the edit mode by pressing the EDIT button
Cursor to [Setup] and press the ENTER button
Cursor to [MIDI] and press ENTER button
Cursor to [Common] and press ENTER button.
Cursor to [RX SysEx = ?] and use the VALUE to turn to [ON]
Cursor to [RXSysEx Device ID = ?] and use VALUE to choose [17]
Click EXIT to back out to the main screen and play the data in from
the computer midi output.
While loading the display reads [Receiving SysEx]
When the screen returns to the patch window, VALUE up or down to
another patch to confirm the new data got loaded. Look at all of
them.
It should have now reloaded all the data and has a power supply that's
good hooked to the memory chip. If you're NOT good with circuits,
DON'T CHANGE THE BATTERY. I don't want anyone mad at me for screwing
up their Roland with the bottom off. Let a shop do it, right, if you
can find one....
A little note about the replacement Contact Board Assy (Part #
101184)...It works really nice with the new Connector Board under the
keyboard. Part # 01678456. The board WON'T fit the old contact board
and won't replace a ripped-off connector cable to the main
computer.....HOWEVER, as usual, the instructions to put this INTO the
U-20 (or any of the other keyboards like D-5, Model 660, EP-5, EP-3)
doesn't tell you WHICH end of WHICH cable is WHICH! Isn't that nice?
Someone took a picture of the installed new system, bottom view, so
you can see how to FOLD....well, almost how to fold....the flat
circuitboard flex cables. Too bad they didn't check out the keyboard
BEFORE they took the picture.... If you fold everything like the
picture and hook it all up like it shows, the keyboard will be missing
every 8th (i think it was 8) note and play BACKWARDS....BECAUSE IT'S
HOOKED TO THE MAIN COMPUTER BACKWARDS! Having disassembled the
keyboard a few times, cursing new words towards Japan, you must turn
the connectors AT THE MAIN COMPUTER BOARD, over (one more cable fold
than it shows on each cable). Then it'll play first class.....
Anyone replacing the strips, please don't cheap-out and replace all
the rubber switches, too. It's just too hard to disassemble next year
when old rubbers fail. Thank GOD noone makes a keyboard now with the
switch boards UNDER the keytops.....in between to the frame. Idiots.
(You may quote me.)
Now, if I could only get this customer to bring me some MONEY and pick
up this restored U-20....that would be even nicer! I really don't
need 5 synthesizers, you know...(c;
Larry
Keyboard Service.
Isn't this more fun than my old Navy Metrology Lab?
On Sat, 24 Jul 1999 00:11:59 -0500, "C.L." <Fei...@mindspring.com>
wrote:
>Larry, thanks for the help. Here was the original problem, maybe you can
>tell me if I'm looking at it wrong. I turned on my U-20 a few weeks back
>and got a "initializing memory" message. after that all my presets we're a
>garbled mess (random ASCII characters on the LCD where part names used to
>be). Worse yet, I was getting no sound. So I downloaded two patches from
>Roland, the U-20 original presets and the alternate patch. When I
>downloaded these to the keyboard it downloaded both sequentially. I ended
>up with some sounds from the original factory patch (some of which don't
>'sound' on every part of the keyboard i.e. only certain keys produce a
>sound) and some I have never seen before(I'm sure from the alt. patch of
>which none sound when played) the biggest problem is, I tried downloading
>ONLY the original patch but it didn't erase the old, I'm still paging
>through those new sounds that don't work. Any suggestions? Hope I didn't
>ramble.
>
>Thanks!
>craig
>
>Larry KN4IM wrote:
>
>> On Thu, 22 Jul 1999 23:35:43 -0500, "C.L." <Fei...@mindspring.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >Anyone know how I can purge the ROM of my U-20 so I can start with a
>> >clean slate for downloading presets?
>> >
>> >thanks!
>> >craig
>> >
charlie glasgow
wrote:
>Step ONE: Replace the Lithium memory battery. It's located on the
>main computer board and MUST be functional before it'll store anything
>for long. Remember this is OLD technology....really OLD. Commode
>Door 64 OLD.
>
>To get to the battery you must remove the bottom. The main board is
>located under the midi connector board which must be removed first.
>Be very careful of the KEYBOARD FLEXIBLE PRINTED CIRCUIT CABLE. I
>waited 7 months for a replacement. ($70 and probably not available to
>the general public). After you get the midi connector board loose,
>fold it over the audio output board out of the way. After you get the>>>
>>> The new keyboard switch strip works great, fyi. The connector became
>>> separated causing errors when you played it on the old strip. Roland
>>> has no more parts so substituted a new kind of strip with a REAL PLUG
>>> and interconnect card, this time. Far better than that glued together
>>> cable they used to use.
>>>
>>> Larry Butler
>>> Keyboard Service
>>> Charleston SC
>>
>
Hey Larry....you could save me on this one...I just got a new 88 key
controller in this week and have been very frustrated with my old
Roland D5...came out the same exact time as the U20, D10,20 and
D50...I don't smoke or drink around my keyboards but someone has
over the years in the bars and such...I am missing the octave below
middle C and went in to investigate...arrrhg!!! Cancer on the ribbon
keyboard connecter...clear green and runs the length of the 64 keys???
Anyway, I assume that the all the D and U series keyboards used the
same connector and ribbon and saw your post here....I was just getting
ready to contact Roland about this as our local repair shop knows less
about this than I do!!! I go inside and tighten up the chip creep and
minor maintainance from time to time... the gear gets bounced during
the rides on the back roads and must be checked once in a while...
Where did you locate that ribbon and do you have a website
or email that can get me there??? I really don't want to throw this
keyboard away and it would be great as an organ controller with
my 88 below for piano. I have an EMU Proteus FX and Roland
U220 that I just love! Take care and thanks!
charlie glasgow
Jamestown, ND
USA
gla...@buffalocity.net
Check out Sheepboys songs on http://www.mp3.com/artists/32/charlie_ray_glasgow.html
ICQ # 31547889 Come visit my homepage! http://www.kcview.com/glasgow/
Larry KN4IM
where you are? The USA website is www.rolandus.com and you can click
on "service centers" for the search for your area. My search for
Buffalo shows:
DB Musical
2405 Harlem RD
Buffalo, NY 14225-4513
716-894-9426
They are supposed to have certified techs from the course on staff and
are the only ones listed for Buffalo. You can search for yourself on
the webpage if your someplace else.
I'm looking at "Service Information #101184 - Contact Board No Longer
Available" and your D5 is, indeed, listed as originally using part #
7621423000 for the keyboard contact board. The replacement is a kit,
part number 7621322000A which includes the contact board assy
(#22935230), Connector board assy (#01678456), Fuji Card
10X600-A6.0BB-P1.25-HBL10 (#23475423), Fuji Card
14X590-A6.0BB-P1.25-HBL10 (#23475424), 2 3X8 self tapping screws
(#40011067) and Service INformation sheets (#10834) which I'm reading
this from. The D-5/Model 660 sheet (Info #101184) has good pictorials
on how to mount the new adapter board but says nothing of the HORROR
of having to remove all the keys, being careful not to lose any of the
spring bars inside them, then removing and replacing the contact board
and (not included with board) new rubber switches. But, I guess from
your message you know what a PAIN it is to clean these
keyboards....(c;
If you order the substitute kit above, you'll have to do it through a
service center as Roland rarely talks to mere mortals, unless of
course you're interested in NEW purchase sales literature. Actual
buyers are too far down the food chain, me thinks. It keeps us in
business, you know.....
Hope this information can help your dealer to do his job. If the
keyboard plays backwards like the U-20 does when it's all reinstalled,
turn both cable connectors UPSIDE DOWN at the MAIN COMPUTER BOARD
connectors and it will then play just fine....
Larry....in service on the other side of the garage from
manufacturing...
On Tue, 27 Jul 1999 06:47:35 GMT, gla...@buffalocity.net (charlie
glasgow) wrote:
>On Sun, 25 Jul 1999 00:55:57 GMT, nospam@micro$haft.com (Larry KN4IM)
>wrote:
>
>>Step ONE: Replace the Lithium memory battery. It's located on the
>>main computer board and MUST be functional before it'll store anything
>>for long. Remember this is OLD technology....really OLD. Commode
>>Door 64 OLD.
>>
>>To get to the battery you must remove the bottom. The main board is
>>located under the midi connector board which must be removed first.
>>Be very careful of the KEYBOARD FLEXIBLE PRINTED CIRCUIT CABLE. I
>>waited 7 months for a replacement. ($70 and probably not available to
>>the general public). After you get the midi connector board loose,
>>fold it over the audio output board out of the way. After you get the>>>
>>>> The new keyboard switch strip works great, fyi. The connector became
>>>> separated causing errors when you played it on the old strip. Roland
>>>> has no more parts so substituted a new kind of strip with a REAL PLUG
>>>> and interconnect card, this time. Far better than that glued together
>>>> cable they used to use.
>>>>
>>>> Larry Butler
>>>> Keyboard Service
>>>> Charleston SC
>>>
>>
>
Larry KN4IM
Only Roland in all of North Dakota says:
Popplers Music, Inc.
PO Box 14238
Grand Forks, ND 58208-4238
701-746-7471
Is this the dealer you've been dealing with??
Larry....
If you ever play Charleston, SC, I'd love to hear your music!
email is kn4im at nations dot net to keep the spammers away.
On Tue, 27 Jul 1999 06:47:35 GMT, gla...@buffalocity.net (charlie
glasgow) wrote:
>On Sun, 25 Jul 1999 00:55:57 GMT, nospam@micro$haft.com (Larry KN4IM)
>wrote:
>
>>Step ONE: Replace the Lithium memory battery. It's located on the
>>main computer board and MUST be functional before it'll store anything
>>for long. Remember this is OLD technology....really OLD. Commode
>>Door 64 OLD.
>>
>>To get to the battery you must remove the bottom. The main board is
>>located under the midi connector board which must be removed first.
>>Be very careful of the KEYBOARD FLEXIBLE PRINTED CIRCUIT CABLE. I
>>waited 7 months for a replacement. ($70 and probably not available to
>>the general public). After you get the midi connector board loose,
>>fold it over the audio output board out of the way. After you get the>>>
>>>> The new keyboard switch strip works great, fyi. The connector became
>>>> separated causing errors when you played it on the old strip. Roland
>>>> has no more parts so substituted a new kind of strip with a REAL PLUG
>>>> and interconnect card, this time. Far better than that glued together
>>>> cable they used to use.
>>>>
>>>> Larry Butler
>>>> Keyboard Service
>>>> Charleston SC
>>>
>>
>
Larry KN4IM
glasgow) wrote:
>
>charlie glasgow
>Jamestown, ND
>USA
>gla...@buffalocity.net
> Check out Sheepboys songs on http://www.mp3.com/artists/32/charlie_ray_glasgow.html
> ICQ # 31547889 Come visit my homepage! http://www.kcview.com/glasgow/
>
As I sit here enjoying your MP3 file, another trick you might be
interested in I did for a few local rock bands who lead a more than,
shall we say, priestly life, came to mind.
When you're playing in a club with a restaurant, go back in the
kitchen and be sweet to that 400 # lady at the grille. Ask her if you
can have a few pieces of commercial Saran Wrap off the 1000' roll on
her counter. Home wrap works but commercial is much more durable.
This thin film wrap can extend your keyboard's service intervals to
get the beer, hair, dandruff, coke, ashes, tear stains, puke
(customer's of course), and anything that falls out of the beautiful
blonde you picked out of the crowd to sing to.
Next time you disassemble all those keys and clean the crap out from
under the rubber switch tops, take a piece of this film and lay it
over the top of the frame and keyswitches before you put the
keytops/springs back on. I use ClingFree sprayed on the wrap on a
flat table top and let dry to keep the staticy film wrap from building
up a BAD static charge dangerous to the computer. ClingFree bleeds
off the plastic wrap's charge and it won't cling by static. This film
will divert the crap AWAY FROM the contact switch strip but won't
block the keys from pressing down on the rubbers. Wrap the film about
2" around the ends of the keyboard frame and use plain old rubber
cement to tack it to the ends of the frame so it'll stay in place.....
I have one of these tricks on a heavy use tourboat cruising Charleston
Harbor after we bought their 4th piano contract strip ruined by salt
spray, beer, booze, puke...well, you get the idea....9c;)
Might keep you on-the-road between service calls a little longer. Try
it out.
Larry