8mm Bolex repair help
Morgan
running condition, but it catches a little bit. It sounds to me like it
needs oil, but I am new to this machine and unwilling to open it up and
poke around. Does anyone have any suggestions of people who work with
these cameras, or websites that could walk me through oiling the camera
etc...?
Thanks.
Michael
uneven. How can we get these cameras to run smoothly again?
Jim Carlile
melt the lubricant a little, quieting it down a bit. You can also
apply a little watch oil to the spindle and drip it down into the
works-- this is what the H8 manual recommends, believe it or not...
My own B8 always runs noisy in cold weather. It's best to avoid using
old cameras below about 70 degrees or so, in my experience. Everything
expands in the cold and runs roughly. That's how things break.
If you're really brave, you can spray some WD-40 under the protective
plate, hoping it gets around. But I think you'll find warmer
temperatures solve the problem
mcart...@home.com (Michael) wrote in message news:<auf2qb$5i1$1...@oslo-nntp.eunet.no>...
Steve Spicer
Most clockwork cameras sound rougher than they actually are, (unless you
can see sand/dirt on them!) and will sound sweeter when you have film
loaded.
Light graphited oil - you can get this from a locksmith - was what was
recommended to me by my camera repairer many years ago; he even
suggested pure graphite powder (also from locksmith) for the spring.
best
SS
Super8mm
writes:
>I am in the same boat with two of the B8 cameras that run rough and
>uneven. How can we get these cameras to run smoothly again?
>
>
>
----> LUBRICATION of the BOLEX B-8, C8, & D8L type cameras (without complete
disassembly)<--------- by MWB (c) 2002
---> The older small spring wound BOLEX cameras are tiny marvels of Swiss
craftsmanship and precision. They can make sharp steady movies as long as they
run smoothly. Oftentimes, as they are now well past 35 years old.....they
need relubrication for continued use; especially if they have been sitting
around for years.
--> Carefully removal of the center molded plastic unit which contains the door
locking shaft and film pressure plate open/close lever. This is mounted via a
single machine screw. Be extra careful in removing this unit and pay
particular attention to the top spring loaded film feed roller. This roller's
lower pin rests in a drilled hole in the film chamber chassis and you must make
sure upon reinstallation that it goes back in. Upon removal hold this roller
with your finger so that the tiny spring doesn't go flying off. Once removed,
set it aside safely somewhere.
---> Now, using sewing machine oil, place 2-3 drops on the worm gear shaft
which is now visible. (NOT WD-40 or anything similar since this type of spray
oil is too light...it will free up the mechanism if seized....however it's
lubrication properties will wear down rapidly, thus the need for a thicker
lubricant...but yet fine enough to penetrate the gearing and shafts and provide
proper lubrication) -- Having removed also the film pressure plate assembly
(via sliding it down, aka to the left of the film gate and lifting it outward),
place a drop of oil on the film claw eccentric mechanism, and also on visible
pivot points and shaft pins which are fitted into drilled chassis holes from
below.
---> Wind the camera fully, and run it at 16fps, ensuring that the oil works
itself into the moving parts. If after a full wind, it still doesn't seem to
run smooth, drop some more oil drops on the main moving parts, making sure to
get some on all visible pivot points, shaft ends, and gear parts. Wind the
camera fully again and then repeat winding and allowing it to run thru fully
for another three times. By this time, the oil should've worked itself into
the main moving parts and allowed it to free up to run smoothly. On the B8LA
and D8LA models which have the external film rewind shaft; open the shaft cover
and place a drop or two of oil on it while laying the camera on its side.
Then run the camera on its side to work the oil in. This shaft directly
connects to the main spring gearing dust getting in over the years, dry
lubricant and/or lack of it, will affect the running here also. Make sure you
do NOT overlubricate the camera, since excess oil could find its way into the
shutter area and thus end up splashing some onto the film gate and film itself.
---> Once the camera comes back to life and runs smoothly, adjust the running
speed from 8fps or 12fps up to 24fps and back down again to allow lubrication
to fully work itself thru all moving parts. Do not exceed 24fps, since it
could damage the speed governor. If the camera is extremely sluggish, you can
exceed 24fps, since it most likely isn't running anywhere near that rate and is
barely moving. By doing so, it will allow the camera to run faster, hopefully
to work the lubrication in and loosen the mechanism up. Once the camera
appears to increase in speed at the higher running speed selections, to what
begins to seem normal.....stop operating it at anything faster than 24fps.
For example...if it barely runs at 16fps, 18fps or 24fps.....adjust the speed
upward to 32fps or 48fps if necessary...just to get the mechanism moving. Once
she speeds up...back the running speed back down to 'normal' again so as not to
damage the running speed governor. On very sluggish B8LA and D8LA models, you
can also use the film rewind crank in the external shaft opening to help coax
the mechanism into forward movement. Be careful here though, as you don't want
to damage the tiny crank, which are hard to locate now-a-days.
---> If by this point the camera is back to normal working condition, great.
Now clean up any excess oil in the film gate area, and wipe the film gate and
film guide rollers with alcohol to remove any oil traces. Then wipe it down
with some movie film cleaner with lubricant.....or if none available, use some
pure silicone spray (spraying it onto a clean white cotten flannel cloth, allow
propellant to evaporate before wiping). Wipe the film gate and channels and
film pressure plate. Reinstall the film pressure plate. Reinstall the center
plastic moulded unit and carefully place the upper roller pin into its
appropriate drilled chassis hole. Once in place, reinsert the machine screw
with its accompanying washer and snuggly hand tighten. Do not overtighten as
you can crack the casing of the unit if you do. The camera should run nicely
now. Use some scrap film to test its operation under film load.
---> If the camera still does not come back to life after all this....then it
most likely will require complete disassembly, full cleaning of all parts and
proper lubrication and reassembly. This is too involved and delicate a
procedure for the average hobbyist and is best left to a skilled camera repair
technician. Tampering with the camera beyond this point can cause a lack of
frameline accuracy, and film claw to shutter synchronization and other
potential running problems. While a fine mechanical mechanism, the BOLEX
cameras are also sufficiently complex in their construction, most especially
the later ones with TTL metering and variable shutter assemblies.
---> Lastly, if your BOLEX is running fine or seems to run fine, but the film
jitters upon projection......the likely culprit is the slip clutch on the take
up shaft. This is supposed to slip relative to the rate of film takeup
diameter and the rate to which film is fed to it, and is often overlooked as a
problem area on these aging cameras. The design is simple in that the shaft
itself uses a material to allow the mechanism to grip and rotate the shaft, but
slip as needed relative to takeup. Leather was used on many....and if dried
out with age.....the shaft can't slip...and thus tugs at the film causing it to
jitter and slip in the gate, usually during the moment just after exposure
where the film claw retracts and the frame is supposed to be stationary waiting
for the shutter to open for exposure, and/or during exposure. A very small
(tiny) drop of oil on this shaft material, under the shaft will usually remedy
this problem. Once lubricated, install the take up shaft again, and check
with a takeup spool and some scrap film.
---> Do NOT overlubricate, as it will not allow enough takeup grip and the film
will either not take up properly, and will be too loose on the takeup spool, or
worse....won't take up at all! If this happens.....just clean off the shaft
spindle underneath, having removed the takeup shaft.....and start over again.
If you go too far...it will require more disassembly, requiring removal of the
chassis cover plate so you can have full access to the clutch & spindle unit.
In some cases, this is what you'll have to do anyhow......just be careful.
First remove the center moulded plastic unit and carefully set it aside.
Then, remove the film pressure plate. Then remove the chassis plate screws and
tape them to a sheet of paper where you have drawn an outline of the camera so
you know where to return them to. Carefully lift out the chassis cover plate
making sure not to scratch the highly polished film guide and gate area. The
film takeup mechanism will now be readily visible and you can clean up and
lubricate it as necessary.
---> Upon completion, test it BEFORE you reassemble everything, with a takeup
spool and and some scrap film. What you want to do is avoid having to take
it all apart again. If any of this is beyond your ability, have a competant
repair technician do it for you. You should be able to have a local camera
repair shop tackle it for you.....even if they don't do movie cameras....show
them these instructions and the technician will understand what needs to be
done. They will bill you appropriately.....and beware, many shops now charge
in the range of $75 to $125 per hour! Some smaller shops in various parts of
the USA still charge some lower rates...but only you can assess if the costs
are worth the upkeep of your camera to you.
Best wishes and good luck with your BOLEX 8mm cameras!
Martin W. Baumgarten