developing experiment
Martin Ostrom
Just want to get some advice before I try this.
I am going to process EXR200T in C41 and 7240 in E6.
Does anyone think it will work?
Regards,
Martin
George Selinsky
Martin Ostrom wrote:
> hello, hello!
> Just want to get some advice before I try this.
> I am going to process EXR200T in C41
Problem 1 - the black rem-jet backing on the base side of the film has
to be removed first, by soaking the film in a solution of Sodium
Carbonate and Borax for a short while before development, and the
backing has to be removed gently by running water and a squeegee.
Usually there's a buffer wheel that does this.
Problem 2 - the bleach for C-41 has different characteristics than the
ECN-2 bleach. You may want to mix your own, or you can get unwanted
color casts. Don't ask me what, because this is what a Kodak rep told me
once.
Otherwise, it should work.
Kodak has started selling ECN-2 chemistry, you can look at their website
to learn more.
> and 7240 in E6.
Martin Baumgarten will hopefully answer you on these questions more
specifically, he's our processing pro.
Martin B. tells me that E6's color developer is too dilute and as a
result, produces a magenta color tint to the film. If you were to
increase concentration by 20%, the problem goes away.
Otherwise, just watch that tempurature, keep solutions replenished, and
keep things tidy.Good luck.
- George.
Super8mm
You posted to the Super 8 newsgroup:
<< Just want to get some advice before I try this.
am going to process EXR200T in C41 and 7240 in E6.
Does anyone think it will work?
Regards,
Martin >>
---> Yes, you can use C-41 Color Negative chemistry to process the EXR200T
film, since C-41 is very similar to the ECN2 motion picture color negative
process. The bleach is formulated a bit differently, but this shouldn't cause
you any big problems. Ideally, you would use a different bleach....try using
the one from the E-6 process, as it works better. The main thing is the
removal of the jet-black anti-halation backing, which is best done after you're
done processing. If it proves really tough to wipe off in warm water....add
some Borax to a water bath (Ideally some Sodium Carbonate and Borax but Borax
alone in warm water @ 105°F will work) and soak it in that....then wipe it off
a couple feet at a time.....between a set of rewinds with a tray of Borax mix
between them. Then, after you're finished....reload the film onto the spiral
reel, and wash for a minute or two to rinse out the borax.......final rinse the
film, and then hang to dry. You can also substitute the Bleach and Fixer from
E-6 chemistry, and just buy the C-41 Color Developer.
---> As for using E-6 chemistry for VNF....it works, but the color developer is
formulated differently. If you will be filming under flourescent
lighting.....it will be fine...since there will be a 20CC magenta shift
minimum. However, if you mix the E-6 Color Developer overconcentrated by 35%
it will get you close to the correct color. I say close, since water quality
factors will affect processing as well. The overconcentration will shift the
film to yellow-green.....which is almost the opposite of the magenta. To tweek
it a bit to the blue then....you will have to add some sulfuric acid (follow
the color correction advice in the Kodak E-6 mixing instructions). Temperature
will affect it also. So you can do it this way.....over concentrate the Color
Developer by 35% and process the film with the Color Developer at 105°F to
110°F....which will shift the color also a bit more where you want it. If the
first roll seems too yellow....just begin to back off on the concentration by
diluting the Color Developer....in 5% increments with water. You'll find a
happy medium for yourself.
---> VNF-1 Color Developer has the reversal agent in the developer, and the
process includes stop baths between development steps.......intended for
machine processing of course. I have hand processed using the VNF-1
chemistry...but it's pricey and each mix makes 100 liters! That's a lot of
soup to have around. I have found that the E-6 process is easier to control
via some tweeking than bothering with the VNF-1 chemistry.....for hand
processing.
---> I should also add that after you have processed the film....you will need
to filter all of your solutions to remove any stray traces of the jetblack
anti-halation backing that may've flaked off in your chemistry. I use a mesh
strainer on a large funnel and at the bottom of the funnel I have some fine
cheesecloth....sometimes using cotton cloth.....as an extra fine filter and
hold it onto the bottom of the funnel with a rubberband wrapped several times
around. You will have to clean our your "filter" here a few times since it
will clog up as you filter your solutions out....also rinse the "filter" very
good with water and always work from first solution to the last...in other
words....downline thru the process. This will avoid any needless potential for
chemistry contamination. In a machine.....the removal of the anti-halation
backing is done prior the developing process. However..in manual processing
the backing doesn't all come off...and really doesn't even begin to come off
until you are past the Color Developer stage. Even so....FILTER all the
solutions after you are finished to ensure that it's cleaned up before reusing
for your next film run.
---> While I'm on this subject.....you can also process Ektachrome VNF 7240 as
a color negative using either the C-41 chemistry...or just use the C-41 Color
Developer and use the Bleach and Fixer from the E-6 chemistry. It works out
quite well....and....I bet this method could actually be used by some for
various color negative requirements....since they transfer to video afterwards
anyhow. I just did a 2-Stop PUSH on some VNF processed as color neg for a
customer.....very grainy....but sharp....and the flesh tones still looked quite
realistic upon transfer to video......kind've amazing actually.
Hope this helps...let me know if you have any other questions. I process movie
film daily...both B&W and Color, all by hand.
Best wishes,
Martin W. Baumgarten