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  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless</id>
  <title type="text">alt.internet.wireless Google Group</title>
  <subtitle type="text">
  Accessing the internet via wireless devices.
  </subtitle>
  <link href="/group/alt.internet.wireless/feed/atom_v1_0_msgs.xml" rel="self" title="alt.internet.wireless feed"/>
  <updated>2008-10-13T01:54:16Z</updated>
  <generator uri="http://groups.google.com" version="1.99">Google Groups</generator>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <name>DTC</name>
  <email>dtc_no_s...@example.com</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-13T01:54:16Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/c2baccac89f35400?show_docid=c2baccac89f35400</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/c2baccac89f35400?show_docid=c2baccac89f35400"/>
  <title type="text">Re: WiFi Cabling - dB loss per foot</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  That&#39;s correct...you need two cables. The NS is auto-sensing, so it can &lt;br&gt; be a crossover or straight cable. If your hub or switch has 49 volt PoE, &lt;br&gt; it won;t pass through the NS&#39;s power injector. You just can&#39;t plug the &lt;br&gt; NS directly into the 48 volt hub.
  </summary>
  </entry>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <name>seaweedsl</name>
  <email>seaweedst...@gmail.com</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-12T18:43:52Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/2d82617c04391669?show_docid=2d82617c04391669</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/2d82617c04391669?show_docid=2d82617c04391669"/>
  <title type="text">Re: WiFi Cabling - dB loss per foot</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  Couple more comments to help clarify your options: &lt;br&gt; USB: If you have USB 2.0, then you should not need a USB hub until &lt;br&gt; you are over 15 feet. So, USB should work well buying nothing more &lt;br&gt; than the USB adapter and a 15&#39; extension. This has been my experience &lt;br&gt; with a couple different USB adapters. &lt;br&gt; Ethernet: What DTC is saying is that you will not need anything extra
  </summary>
  </entry>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <name>TheDragon</name>
  <email>respond_to_news_o...@gmail.com</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-12T11:53:35Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/63e5dd7e94da02bd/9f85b381a3890eaa?show_docid=9f85b381a3890eaa</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/63e5dd7e94da02bd/9f85b381a3890eaa?show_docid=9f85b381a3890eaa"/>
  <title type="text">Re: 802.11g @ 6M or 802.11b @ 5.5</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  I have already disabled 802.11b to deny access to these slow devices. &lt;br&gt; I don&#39;t have an option to set a min speed, only a fixed speed. I have &lt;br&gt; options of Tx Rate and Default rate, which is default, 1-2 or all. I have &lt;br&gt; left the default rate at 1-2, and the Tx Rate is on 6Mbs forcing everyone to &lt;br&gt; connect at 6 or nothing. I may look at increasing this to 12, at the expense
  </summary>
  </entry>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <name>Mr. Arnold</name>
  <email>mr.arn...@arnold.com</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-12T09:52:02Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/e242c219b000a20c/993551a63025e532?show_docid=993551a63025e532</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/e242c219b000a20c/993551a63025e532?show_docid=993551a63025e532"/>
  <title type="text">Re: Wireles - XP with Vista</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  Well, you had better head on over to MS.Public.Windows.Vista.Networ king at &lt;br&gt; msnews.micorsoft.com, which should be a part of Windows Mail (MS &lt;br&gt; Communities) on Vista, or you can get there via a browser interface too.
  </summary>
  </entry>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <name>jpsga</name>
  <email>jp...@comcast.net</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-12T02:48:09Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/e242c219b000a20c/e42653f67eb0463a?show_docid=e42653f67eb0463a</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/e242c219b000a20c/e42653f67eb0463a?show_docid=e42653f67eb0463a"/>
  <title type="text">Re: Wireles - XP with Vista</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  Joe ..For those two see each other they must have the same WorkGroup. The &lt;br&gt; default workgroup name in XP is different that the default workgroup name in &lt;br&gt; VISTA. &lt;br&gt; JPS
  </summary>
  </entry>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <name>F8BOE</name>
  <email>f8...@bluemail.ch</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-11T18:14:57Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/b3181cc8e63a3b17?show_docid=b3181cc8e63a3b17</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/b3181cc8e63a3b17?show_docid=b3181cc8e63a3b17"/>
  <title type="text">Re: WiFi Cabling - dB loss per foot</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  An AP in client mode would do it if there is an AC plug nearby. &lt;br&gt; Most APs can be run in several modes and only need a CAT 5 or 6 cable and &lt;br&gt; are OS independent. &lt;br&gt; D-Link&#39;s DWL-G730AP is a good example...
  </summary>
  </entry>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <name>DTC</name>
  <email>dtc_no_s...@example.com</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-11T17:32:08Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/0032387beb6f30b0?show_docid=0032387beb6f30b0</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/0032387beb6f30b0?show_docid=0032387beb6f30b0"/>
  <title type="text">Re: WiFi Cabling - dB loss per foot</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  Yes and no....This question has come up many times in the UBNT forums &lt;br&gt; as it can be misleading, so I&#39;ll take it point by point. &lt;br&gt; * The NS is advertised as a PoE device in the sense that it can be &lt;br&gt; powered using the spare pairs of the ethernet cable, but it is &lt;br&gt; NOT a true PoE device in the sense that it does not use 48 volts as
  </summary>
  </entry>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <email>ab9il.worldw...@gmail.com</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-11T04:53:07Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/0c85af959ef856d3/3ac8e7f7a9ff540d?show_docid=3ac8e7f7a9ff540d</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/0c85af959ef856d3/3ac8e7f7a9ff540d?show_docid=3ac8e7f7a9ff540d"/>
  <title type="text">Re: townhouse coverage - mostly vertical</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  Orienting the dipole antenna to favor the downstairs should work &lt;br&gt; okay. If not, a directional antenna should put a good signal through &lt;br&gt; those floors. The concrete, metal, and wood in a building can &lt;br&gt; attenuate the wi-fi signal if you&#39;re going through more than two &lt;br&gt; levels - the throughput starts going dow.
  </summary>
  </entry>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <email>ab9il.worldw...@gmail.com</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-11T04:35:34Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/cc72c018cfa82a2a?show_docid=cc72c018cfa82a2a</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/cc72c018cfa82a2a?show_docid=cc72c018cfa82a2a"/>
  <title type="text">Re: WiFi Cabling - dB loss per foot</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  You are on the right track using a USB wireless adapter and usb &lt;br&gt; extensions (if necessary) to your computer. Low loss coaxial cable is &lt;br&gt; expensive, and still loses too much of the signal to be worth the &lt;br&gt; trouble. There are a couple of higher power (500 mw) wireless &lt;br&gt; adapters on the market, but you should do fine with a good USB device
  </summary>
  </entry>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <name>Dennis</name>
  <email>dennispub...@hotmail.com</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-11T04:22:42Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/b9996b89e02a7866?show_docid=b9996b89e02a7866</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/b9996b89e02a7866?show_docid=b9996b89e02a7866"/>
  <title type="text">Re: WiFi Cabling - dB loss per foot</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  Great info thanks guys! &lt;br&gt; The Nanostation looks very interesting, I&#39;m tempted... but it uses &lt;br&gt; power over ethernet so I&#39;ll need a PoE network card or adapter? Is &lt;br&gt; this it? &lt;a target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=nofollow href=&quot;http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833127059&quot;&gt;[link]&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt; Also I&#39;m a bit confused about what makes it a good antenna. The main
  </summary>
  </entry>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <email>m...@sushi.com</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-11T03:09:16Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/2f99086cfdd229b1?show_docid=2f99086cfdd229b1</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/2f99086cfdd229b1?show_docid=2f99086cfdd229b1"/>
  <title type="text">Re: WiFi Cabling - dB loss per foot</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  Not a bad idea, though it require a wall wart, while the USB device is &lt;br&gt; powered via the cable. My experience is USB is more likely to have a &lt;br&gt; driver problem than ethernet. I think any ethernet device other than a &lt;br&gt; card on the bus doesn&#39;t need a driver.
  </summary>
  </entry>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <email>m...@sushi.com</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-11T03:04:10Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/d6b8bc660cc79d91/cbcb66149195fb72?show_docid=cbcb66149195fb72</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/d6b8bc660cc79d91/cbcb66149195fb72?show_docid=cbcb66149195fb72"/>
  <title type="text">Re: OT- pissed about Chinese products</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  Some Harbor Freight stuff works well. For instance, those tapered hole &lt;br&gt; saw sets. They are great for making holes in a metal box. The taper &lt;br&gt; design obviously won&#39;t be good for thick stuff. &lt;br&gt; I leave Harbor Freight tools in the truck in the event I need to do a &lt;br&gt; repair away from home. No use buying a good set of tools for that
  </summary>
  </entry>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <name>DTC</name>
  <email>dtc_no_s...@example.com</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-10T23:16:41Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/3f61fc29241948dc/df0e1de6a07daf6d?show_docid=df0e1de6a07daf6d</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/3f61fc29241948dc/df0e1de6a07daf6d?show_docid=df0e1de6a07daf6d"/>
  <title type="text">Re: Wireless devices not being able to reconnect after turning off SSID broadcast</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  The laptop &amp;quot;remembers&amp;quot; the SSID it had connected to in the past. &lt;br&gt; If you are no longer transmitting the SSID, the laptop has no idea &lt;br&gt; who the access point is now. &lt;br&gt; So yes, its supposed to be that way.
  </summary>
  </entry>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <name>Mark McIntyre</name>
  <email>markmcint...@trousersspamcop.net</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-10T18:59:39Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/e242c219b000a20c/bac8bd6f3f12b3fb?show_docid=bac8bd6f3f12b3fb</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/e242c219b000a20c/bac8bd6f3f12b3fb?show_docid=bac8bd6f3f12b3fb"/>
  <title type="text">Re: Wireles - XP with Vista</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  Im not sure those two statements make sense together. In an ad-hoc &lt;br&gt; network, the &amp;quot;network&amp;quot; /is/ the other computer. &lt;br&gt; Do you mean that windows does its usual and lies to you about having &lt;br&gt; found a network? It will say this even when it hasn&#39;t successfully &lt;br&gt; connected to a network. &lt;br&gt; Is it perhaps connecting to someone else&#39;s Access Point?
  </summary>
  </entry>
  <entry>
  <author>
  <name>DTC</name>
  <email>dtc_no_s...@example.com</email>
  </author>
  <updated>2008-10-10T15:35:38Z</updated>
  <id>http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/84a0d3562b0fe3d6?show_docid=84a0d3562b0fe3d6</id>
  <link href="http://groups.google.com/group/alt.internet.wireless/browse_thread/thread/f4f835e10fb076b2/84a0d3562b0fe3d6?show_docid=84a0d3562b0fe3d6"/>
  <title type="text">Re: WiFi Cabling - dB loss per foot</title>
  <summary type="html" xml:space="preserve">
  You might want to look at the Ubiquiti Nanostation 2 for $79. &lt;br&gt; &lt;a target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=nofollow href=&quot;http://ubnt.com/products/ns2.php&quot;&gt;[link]&lt;/a&gt;
  </summary>
  </entry>
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