filter changes
TimR
changes, with some implication it helps keep your equipment and maybe
your house clean.
I change my filters but not for that reason. I do it because I don't
want to restrict air flow. (and I hate that whistling noise <grin>)
Now, I could be wrong, but it seems to me that as far as taking dust
out of the air, the dirtier the filter is the more efficiently it
works, up until the point where it blocks air flow so much it gets
sucked in or leaves a gap. A clean filter, especially the fiberglass,
has just got to let more particles through. A good layer of dust on
it has to be part of the trapping mechanism.
People seem to think a dirty filter necessarily means dirty coils or
dirty house, but think about it, that dirt is on the upstream side of
the filter where it's supposed to be. I think too frequent filter
changes probably do more harm than good.
ftwhd
Tim, you are absolutly right.
Mike
profft
but one of the things to be considered when were talking filters and
frequency of changes. The main reason(s) I want you changing those filters
at least once a month has to do with 2 sciences Pneumatics, and biology.
The Pneumatics is your duct system and how it was designed from the getgo
determines the longevity of the equipment, and the actual "Human Comfort
Range" the equipment is capable of sustaining in your area and your
construction type, and materials it's made of.
If it was poorly designed then you have rooms that are hot when you want it
cool and coolish where you want it warmer upstairs in the winter. And it all
boils down to how efficiently I can move the air; how much of that air can
be properly conditioned, with whatever screwed up duct design your existing
equipment happens to be connected too.
In a properly designed duct system all the registers appear from the blowers
point of view equidistant, in a poorly designed one I loose part of the
house due to excess friction, besides the fact we usually have to deal with
inadequate returns to that section at the sametime, undersized supply
branches, broke off dampers, construction debris, you name it I've seen it
at one time or another! Too bad thier isn't a alt.havc.bin News Group, then
we could upload photos of them good or bad.
Anyway I can only deliver the air to wherever it can be delivered, and it
can't be delivered where it can't be removed efficiently from, air is lazy
and will only do what you want if you make it do it, and hope'n&cus'n at
won't work. But it doesn't have to be a poor design, it could be the returns
are blocked by furniture; That fine Swedish Oak Cabinet in the Dining Room
blocking the returns helps insure a cool room in the winter, and if the
Tstat is in the same room(usually is) then it will run more than it should.
Just one example Dirty return grills are good for 1/3 lost air capacity, my
blower can only move air that gets to it, so too if the returns on the 3rd
floor are the same size as the ones on the second, or they have the same
sized grills in the same sized return ducts, it will always favor the 2nd
floor which you try to correct by closing some 1st floor dampers and create
a whole new set of problems with airflow and temperature rise.
And thus we arrive at changeing the filter regularly is more for your health
than mechanical considerations. because it's biological it grows. Bacteria,
Pollins, and Spores are the main reason to change every 30 days, it's also
the reason to have single passthru type humidifiers and UV lamps in the
supply and return ducts. The air, all year long [unless your in the
Antarctic] has all kinds nasty things like mold spores, pollins from trees,
grass', and bushes, dustmites, bacterias and virius', naturally occuring
ANTHRAX, etc, etc.. That's why filters need to be changed regularly, it's
the little stuff you don't see that hurts you. Everytime you cook in the
house you feed them, their in the perfect growing environment during the
summer, 45°-65°F wet environment, inexhaustable food supply and it grows
like a weed[sorta], turns into a slime like substance.
If the snot is jellyfish clear then you only need a shot or two of biocide
in the coil and pan to kill that off. If it's chunky and very disgusting
looking says you are neither a diligent filter changer; or cleanfreak. Now
DON'T take that the wrong way, I don't know you, can't see what you got,
don't know anything from here without whipping out my CrystalBall[Patent
Pending] on you. The official pre-producion test model is out in the truck
and I don't feel like going out and getting it in the rain. ;-)
"TimR" <timot...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:87af0be7.02111...@posting.google.com...
Noon-Air
Fiberglass filters are not worth the powder to blow them to hell, The basic
40% eff pleated disposables gat most all the dust, pollen, animal dander,
etc. They will also help a lot with folks that have alergies, not to mention
they also help keep the dust down in the house.
as far as changing filters??
Change them every month regardless of usage. Use your utility bills as a
reminder to change your filter(s) Clean filter = better efficiency = lower
bills.
--
Steve @ Noon-Air Heating and A/C
noon...@netdoor.com
Please send my consulting fee of $60.00 (USD) for replying to this message
to;
Noon-Air Heating & Air Conditioning Svc
PO Box 343
Purvis MS 39475
"profft" <f.ta...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:8ihA9.11304$4N1...@nwrddc04.gnilink.net...
TimR
> news:8ihA9.11304$4N1...@nwrddc04.gnilink.net...
> > Well...there's a lot more to this than just dirt in the air, That is dirt
> is
> > but one of the things to be considered when were talking filters and
> > frequency of changes. The main reason(s) I want you changing those filters
> > at least once a month has to do with 2 sciences Pneumatics, and biology.
> >
> > And thus we arrive at changeing the filter regularly is more for your
> health
> > than mechanical considerations. because it's biological it grows.
> Bacteria,
> > Pollins, and Spores are the main reason to change every 30 days, it's also
> > the reason to have single passthru type humidifiers and UV lamps in the
> > supply and return ducts. The air, all year long [unless your in the
> > Antarctic] has all kinds nasty things like mold spores, pollins from
> trees,
> > grass', and bushes, dustmites, bacterias and virius', naturally occuring
> > ANTHRAX, etc, etc.. That's why filters need to be changed regularly, it's
> > the little stuff you don't see that hurts you. Everytime you cook in the
> > house you feed them, their in the perfect growing environment during the
> > summer, 45°-65°F wet environment, inexhaustable food supply and it grows
> > like a weed[sorta], turns into a slime like substance.
> >
<snip>
Your pneumatics theory makes sense.
I don't think I buy the biological. I don't see return air filters in
residential as being a place for your bugs to grow. The air there is
fairly dry (at least if your system is properly sized and the day
isn't too far from design conditions) and it is warm (75 to 80 F I
would think.) Now if you want to talk coils, sure, about 50 F and
100% humidity, lots of stuff could grow there I imagine. I also don't
see those filters as being to keep the air clean for people, their
purpose is to keep the coils clean enough to transfer heat.
I hate humidifiers, I think they cause more problems, including health
problems, than anything else. I'd rather have too little humidity
than too much, and that's what you usually get.
UV lamps in both supply and return ducts? what is your thinking on
this? I had not been a believer but have heard some good things
lately about odor control, maybe it makes sense. But I thought they
would work better in the dryer air of the return duct, besides you
usually have more room.
Matt Morgan
looks like a damn good filter?; but apparently not something you can
get at the HW store. Looking on the Inet, they go from $25 and up.
Normally my filters get replaced every 6 mos when the serv. co. does
their semi annual. This year they aren't doing their semi annuals
cause I couldn't afford the annual fee (I know - pay me now, pay me
later, but I had to choose having a car and food over regular furnace
maint. this year).
So I replace the filters myself. Havn't ordered any yet tho; and since
we are on the topic:
1) Any recc's on a supplier?
2) Do you recc changing these air bears every month as well?
Thx
M.
Noon-Air
"Matt Morgan" <mmor...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:f484e09d.02111...@posting.google.com...
> My HVAC system uses these humongo "TRION AIR BEAR" filters ......
> looks like a damn good filter?; but apparently not something you can
> get at the HW store. Looking on the Inet, they go from $25 and up.
>
> Normally my filters get replaced every 6 mos when the serv. co. does
> their semi annual. This year they aren't doing their semi annuals
> cause I couldn't afford the annual fee (I know - pay me now, pay me
> later, but I had to choose having a car and food over regular furnace
> maint. this year).
>
> So I replace the filters myself. Havn't ordered any yet tho; and since
> we are on the topic:
>
> 1) Any recc's on a supplier?
Let your fingers do the walking in the yellow pages
> 2) Do you recc changing these air bears every month as well?
nope, every 6 months for the 4 - 6 inch thick pleated filters.... monthly on
the 1 inch thick filters
> Thx
> M.
Hvacmam
are good reasons that hospitals can't use those filters...
TimR
> Then you don't mind getting fiberglass particles in your lungs? There
> are good reasons that hospitals can't use those filters...
>
>
> TimR wrote:
>
> > There've been a couple threads lately that mentioned timely filter
> > changes, with some implication it helps keep your equipment and maybe
> > your house clean.
Well, you've got me confused.
In your opinion fiberglass filters are obviously bad, bad, things. Is
this because they don't remove dust particles from the air, or because
you think they shed fiberglass particles? Is there any evidence that
they really do shed these particles? I tend to doubt it myself but
can be easily convinced with some evidence.
If they do, wouldn't it be better to change them less frequently?
<grin> We finally changed to pleated paper at work after years of
putting in the cheapest fiberglass you can buy, I'm not disagreeing
totally, but we did it thinking we were getting better filtration, not
preventing fiberglass particles. And yes I've seen fiberglass in a
hospital - there's no prohibition I'm aware of.
Noon-Air
news:<3DD4973F...@usa.net>...
> > Then you don't mind getting fiberglass particles in your lungs? There
> > are good reasons that hospitals can't use those filters...
> >
> >
> > TimR wrote:
> >
> > > There've been a couple threads lately that mentioned timely filter
> > > changes, with some implication it helps keep your equipment and maybe
> > > your house clean.
> <snip>
>
> Well, you've got me confused.
>
> In your opinion fiberglass filters are obviously bad, bad, things. Is
> this because they don't remove dust particles from the air, or because
> you think they shed fiberglass particles? Is there any evidence that
> they really do shed these particles? I tend to doubt it myself but
> can be easily convinced with some evidence.
Fiberglass particles aside.... hold a fiberglass filter flat, pour a little
salt on it and watch it go right through...they don't stop anything but the
bugs (maybe).... do the sake with a 40% eff pleated filter and use flour on
it and see what happens....then you tell me if thats a good enough reason
*NOT* to use the fiberglass filters.
> If they do, wouldn't it be better to change them less frequently?
> <grin> We finally changed to pleated paper at work after years of
> putting in the cheapest fiberglass you can buy, I'm not disagreeing
> totally, but we did it thinking we were getting better filtration, not
> preventing fiberglass particles. And yes I've seen fiberglass in a
> hospital - there's no prohibition I'm aware of.
--
Tom Gauldin
for our house. The filter size we have is 20 X 24, and none of the places
around here sell that size. . . preferring the 20 X 25 for some reason.
I was impressed at the ruggedness of these ABS encased filters. They had a
metallic screen on both sides of the media, and there were snap in rivets to
hold the frames to the proper size, once adjusted.
How do these compare, in your opinion, to the other filters?
--
Tom Gauldin, Las Vegas NV
NEW EMAIL tgau...@lvcm.com
NEW PHONE (702) 263-8804 voice/fax
"TimR" <timot...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:87af0be7.02111...@posting.google.com...
Noon-Air
"Tom Gauldin" <tgau...@lvcm.com> wrote in message
news:_x8B9.10262$XF5.1...@news2.west.cox.net...
> Home Depot was selling "electrostatic" adjustable filters, so I bought
some
> for our house. The filter size we have is 20 X 24, and none of the places
> around here sell that size. . . preferring the 20 X 25 for some reason.
>
> I was impressed at the ruggedness of these ABS encased filters. They had
a
> metallic screen on both sides of the media, and there were snap in rivets
to
> hold the frames to the proper size, once adjusted.
>
> How do these compare, in your opinion, to the other filters?
They are a bitch to clean and you can never get them completely clean, they
are *maybe* 20% efficient, and they creat a serious restriction in the
airflow.
20 x 25 x 1 is a standard size for *most* 100 - 125 KBTU gas furnaces.
On the other hand, your local competent, licensed, professionaly trained
HVAC technician will have no problem getting you a case of 40% efficent
pleated disposable filters in the size you need.
--
Steve @ Noon-Air Heating and A/C
noon...@netdoor.com
Please send my consulting fee of $60.00 (USD) for replying to this message
to;
Noon-Air Heating & Air Conditioning Svc
PO Box 343
Purvis MS 39475
Hvacmam
> Hvacmam <vickin...@usa.net> wrote in message news:<3DD4973F...@usa.net>...
>
>>Then you don't mind getting fiberglass particles in your lungs? There
>>are good reasons that hospitals can't use those filters...
>
> Well, you've got me confused.
>
> In your opinion fiberglass filters are obviously bad, bad, things. Is
> this because they don't remove dust particles from the air, or because
> you think they shed fiberglass particles?
Both. You wouldn't have to do much searching on the Net to find
hundreds of charts showing their inefficiency.
Is there any evidence that
> they really do shed these particles? I tend to doubt it myself but
> can be easily convinced with some evidence.
Well, you're telling me that you believe the integrity of a
thirty-nine cent filter is so good that it won't send spun glass
particulates out in any amount if 2000 CFM of air blows through it.
> If they do, wouldn't it be better to change them less frequently?
It's your lungs, and your unit. I personally don't give a rat's
bazinga what filters you use, because personally, I quite enjoy cleaning
coils. It's good off-season work.
> <grin> We finally changed to pleated paper at work after years of
> putting in the cheapest fiberglass you can buy, I'm not disagreeing
> totally, but we did it thinking we were getting better filtration, not
> preventing fiberglass particles.
I'd like you to take a photo of your coils, after years of saving
money with those great cheapie filters. I'll bet you didn't save enough
to justify the coil cleaning you need.
And yes I've seen fiberglass in a
> hospital - there's no prohibition I'm aware of.
That's because you never worked in one through a JCAH inspection.
I was the only HVAC&R tech at a 140 bed hospital (along with two
associated medical centers) for over five years, and survived two of
them. The Joint Commission for the Accreditation of Hospitals (JCAH)
does not allow fiberglass air filters or even fiberglass ductboard to be
used in hospitals. Maybe you were in a hospital that had lost its
accreditation, or maybe in an animal hospital.
And, FYI, it's not just my opinion. If you had spent ten minutes
doing a Dogpile search on just the words "fiberglass air filters" you
would come up with a massive number of websites that state it as the truth.
But, like I said, it's your lungs, and your dirty coils.
Shaun
p...@see_my_sig_for_address.com
Oh, wait, maybe I shouldn't have injected that into the
conversation .....
On Fri, 15 Nov 2002 23:43:26 -0500, "Shaun"
<kelly.pa...@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>you are so smart - my hero
>
>
>"Hvacmam" <vickin...@usa.net> wrote in message
Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~>~~
Please look at http://helpthecritters.com/ , my new domain for helping critters !!!
My personal WWW site is at http://www.pmilligan.net ,
featuring free HVAC, stock market, and other free software
Those who say a thing can not be done
should get out of the way of those
who are actually doing it.
HVACMAN
<pjm@see_my_sig_for_address.com> wrote in message
news:rokbtu41u3d67ftq7...@4ax.com...
Arthur
loose & gets into your lungs, does that also hold true that inside liner on
ducts should not be used?
Residential air conditioning & heating info www.arthurhewett.com
Arthur
"Hvacmam" <vickin...@usa.net> wrote in message
news:3DD5D8D5...@usa.net...
Hvacmam
Hvacmam
stainless, too.
TimR
> In your opinion fiberglass filters are obviously bad, bad, things. Is
> this because they don't remove dust particles from the air, or because
> you think they shed fiberglass particles?
> Both. You wouldn't have to do much searching on the Net to
find
hundreds of charts showing their inefficiency.
Is there any evidence that
> they really do shed these particles? I tend to doubt it myself but
> can be easily convinced with some evidence.
> Well, you're telling me that you believe the integrity of a
thirty-nine cent filter is so good that it won't send spun glass
particulates out in any amount if 2000 CFM of air blows through it.
> If they do, wouldn't it be better to change them less frequently?
Yup, did some searches. No credible evidence of any health effects.
Of course I'm not that computer literate, it may be out there.
Inefficient? Well, I don't doubt fiberglass filters don't stop very
small particles, and that the pleated paper ones do a much better job,
at the expense of some air flow restriction. Even they don't stop the
fine particles that cause some allergies. I suspect the efficiency of
both kinds improves as dust loads up on the front of it. And the air
flow restriction probably goes up at the same rate.
But shed glass particulates? You gotta prove that to me. I've seen
lots of them left in way too long. If they were shedding the whole
time, wouldn't they be getting thinner and thinner until they were
gone? (and shouldn't we see some redepositing on the front of them?
<grin>) What I usually see if they're left in too long is they get so
loaded up they either block the air, or they get sucked in.
Now, here's the thing. I agree fiberglass doesn't do as good a job of
stopping dust particles, especially the small ones. But I also think
they do a better job the dirtier they get, because the layer of dirt
on the front also becomes a filter, and it takes quite a while for
that to build up enough to slow down the air. So if you're going to
use a less efficient fiberglass filter, you ought to keep it dirtier
because it'll stop more dust that way.
Noon-Air
> loaded up they either block the air, or they get sucked in.
>
> Now, here's the thing. I agree fiberglass doesn't do as good a job of
> stopping dust particles, especially the small ones. But I also think
> they do a better job the dirtier they get, because the layer of dirt
> on the front also becomes a filter, and it takes quite a while for
> that to build up enough to slow down the air. So if you're going to
> use a less efficient fiberglass filter, you ought to keep it dirtier
> because it'll stop more dust that way.
when the fiberglass filters get so stopped up that they will catch the same
size particulates that the pleated filters do, not only are they long past
due for change (6 months or more) but they caust so much restriction in the
airflow that the dydtwm will never run correctly and be an energy hog. On
the other hand, how much junk has passed through the fiberglass filters and
is being recirculated in your home for you to breathe.
You can do what you want in your own home.... I will do whats right for
myself and my customers.
Hvacmam
female. As long as you're saving a few pennies on your cheap fiberglass
filters, go right ahead. We're smiling all the way to the bank.
I would bet you there's not a tech here who hasn't pulled a
fiberglass filter in its entirety out of a coil. What you fail to
realize is that you get what you pay for. They get dirty, and when the
restriction reaches a certain point, the get sucked down the airstream.
Maybe the whole filter, maybe only parts of it. But, hey, the money
you saved buying these things instead of a real filter may pay one
percent of the money you'll have to pay someone to come out and take
care of your problem, because even the so-called frames on those filters
are flimsy.
You're also miserably misinformed as to the PURPOSE of an air
filter. The REAL purpose has absolutely nothing to do with keeping the
air you breathe clean. That's a fortuitous coincidence. The purpose of
the air filter is to KEEP THE COIL CLEAN on the air conditioner. The
cheesier a filter you buy, the worse the job it does. Visualize your
coil, if you can, wet from condensation -- and the dust, pet hair, and
pollen sliding through your cheapass filter slamming into it. It
sticks. Then you have REALLY GOOD FILTRATION, and, hell, you don't even
NEED a filter, by your standards! The coil gets dirty enough it stops
these particles from entering your airstream.
And HVAC techs, and companies like Carbonex and NuCalgon, which
manufacture tens of thousands of gallons of various and sundry coil
cleaners, can make a living off you. I visualize you driving a Kia or a
Hyundai, also, because of all the money you save over buying a real
automobile.
It's your choice. We're just trying to help you, but you seem to
be too dense to realize it.
TimR
> You know, you're not going to believe anyone here...least of all a
> female. As long as you're saving a few pennies on your cheap fiberglass
> filters, go right ahead. We're smiling all the way to the bank.
>
Dunno how this degenerated so far. I've agreed with you in every
post. And I've been able to convert almost 1100 buildings away from
cheap fiberglass filters. Nor did gender make any difference - this
time I'm guilty of not reading the header fully and <sigh> I didn't
notice. Sorry. I think you are guilty of jumping to conclusions not
supported by my logic, though.
<snip>
The purpose of
> the air filter is to KEEP THE COIL CLEAN on the air conditioner. The
<snip>
Yup, that's what I said. But also, there's no evidence that
fiberglass sheds, or that it would be harmful to humans if it did,
despite what others have alleged. There is some evidence it doesn't
filter the air going to the coil as well. Changing it more often
doesn't help - in fact it hurts, also despite what some say. What is
the optimal interval? Some of my buildings have differential pressure
gages across the filter, and I can tell how loaded up they get; some
of them have variable speed fans, and that makes a difference too;
others are more lowtech and just get scheduled. Pleated paper is more
expensive, and people therefore change them less often. They figure
higher quality means it lasts longer. But actually the reverse should
be true, you should change them more often, because the air flow
restriction is greater, and they don't benefit as much from being
dirty.
<snip>
> It's your choice. We're just trying to help you,
Really? Well then thanks.
ftwhd
wrote:
>
>> loaded up they either block the air, or they get sucked in.
>>
>> Now, here's the thing. I agree fiberglass doesn't do as good a job of
>> stopping dust particles, especially the small ones. But I also think
>> they do a better job the dirtier they get, because the layer of dirt
>> on the front also becomes a filter, and it takes quite a while for
>> that to build up enough to slow down the air. So if you're going to
>> use a less efficient fiberglass filter, you ought to keep it dirtier
>> because it'll stop more dust that way.
>
>when the fiberglass filters get so stopped up that they will catch the same
>size particulates that the pleated filters do, not only are they long past
>due for change (6 months or more) but they caust so much restriction in the
>airflow that the dydtwm will never run correctly and be an energy hog. On
>the other hand, how much junk has passed through the fiberglass filters and
>is being recirculated in your home for you to breathe.
>You can do what you want in your own home.... I will do whats right for
>myself and my customers.
Steve, what is the dust spot rating of those 40 percent filters?
There is a big numbers game as far as filter effiency goes. 10
percent of larger particles or 40 percent of them. Have you looked at
the various ways filters are tested?
Mike
Noon-Air
> Steve, what is the dust spot rating of those 40 percent filters?
> There is a big numbers game as far as filter effiency goes. 10
> percent of larger particles or 40 percent of them. Have you looked at
> the various ways filters are tested?
>
> Mike
Mike,
I am not up on the various ways of testing and rating filters, I *DO* know
that using the pleated filters that I do, kept my coil from being destroyed
by sawdust/sheet rock dust with all the renovations/remodling happening in
my own home. As a demo for selling the 40% eff pleated filters, I pour salt
on the customers fiberglass filter and we watch it go right through...then
dump a handfull of flour on the pleated filter and nothing goes through.
Either way, I am a firm believer in the pleated filters.
FWIW ....The ones I get are Glassfloss "ZL" pleated filters.
William Mcfadden
>
>The purpose of the air filter is to KEEP THE COIL CLEAN on the air
>conditioner.
Here's something I've always wondered. Most automotive heat/AC systems lack
air filters. Why don't their coils get clogged?
--
Bill McFadden bil...@agora.rdrop.com http://www.rdrop.com/users/billmc
CAUTION: Don't look into laser beam with remaining eye.
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Dave
Mcfadden) wrote:
>In article <3DD913AC...@usa.net>, Hvacmam <vickin...@usa.net> wrote:
>>
>>The purpose of the air filter is to KEEP THE COIL CLEAN on the air
>>conditioner.
>
>Here's something I've always wondered. Most automotive heat/AC systems lack
>air filters. Why don't their coils get clogged?
My wife drives a '92 Chev Beretta which needs the coil cleaned every
couple of years, since we bought it new. Naturally, you have to
disassemble tons of stuff to get at it, but if it was easy, what fun
would that be?
Dave
Peter Parker
TimR <timot...@aol.com> wrote:
[Lots of snips snipped]
>But shed glass particulates? You gotta prove that to me. I've seen
Me too. Where is the proof. Why are they still being sold if they
are so dangerous. Granted, they are they are better than no filter at
all. I have been using the 50 cent EZ-Flow filters from HD for two
years now. I also would like to upgrade to a better filter but I have
to buy one that doesn't make the air handler "Wooomp" kick in sound
when it comes on. The cheap EZ-Flows are very quiet when the air handler
kicks in .
>lots of them left in way too long. If they were shedding the whole
>time, wouldn't they be getting thinner and thinner until they were
>gone? (and shouldn't we see some redepositing on the front of them?
><grin>) What I usually see if they're left in too long is they get so
>loaded up they either block the air, or they get sucked in.
LOL. Now you are getting carried away.
>Now, here's the thing. I agree fiberglass doesn't do as good a job of
>stopping dust particles, especially the small ones. But I also think
>they do a better job the dirtier they get, because the layer of dirt
>on the front also becomes a filter, and it takes quite a while for
>that to build up enough to slow down the air. So if you're going to
>use a less efficient fiberglass filter, you ought to keep it dirtier
>because it'll stop more dust that way.
This can be very true. With all the air volume or the air handler and
static buildup with helps the dust particles cling onto the cheap filters.
This is the same sort of thing K & N air filters for automobiles rely on.
They too filter better as the filter gets that layer of dirt.
Back to the fiberglass cheapies. When I run my AC during the hottest times
of the summer I actually have a gray dusting on the filter pointing away
from the air handler. I still replace the filter each month but I never
had one really get dusty. Since I only use the AC during summer and have
hot water baseboard heat during the winter, I am going to try a better filter
since I don't have hot air heat to filter.
That's my next question. Does the filter get hot during the winter times
and are these cheap filters safe when filtering hot air heat?
--
nos...@zero.com
Replace nospam with jetta to reply via e-mail
Peter Parker
Noon-Air <noon...@netdoor.com> wrote:
>
>
>> Steve, what is the dust spot rating of those 40 percent filters?
>> There is a big numbers game as far as filter effiency goes. 10
>> percent of larger particles or 40 percent of them. Have you looked at
>> the various ways filters are tested?
>>
>> Mike
>
>Mike,
>I am not up on the various ways of testing and rating filters, I *DO* know
>that using the pleated filters that I do, kept my coil from being destroyed
>by sawdust/sheet rock dust with all the renovations/remodling happening in
>my own home. As a demo for selling the 40% eff pleated filters, I pour salt
>on the customers fiberglass filter and we watch it go right through...then
>dump a handfull of flour on the pleated filter and nothing goes through.
>Either way, I am a firm believer in the pleated filters.
>FWIW ....The ones I get are Glassfloss "ZL" pleated filters.
LOL. You will never have to worry about salt floating in air. Heh! Nice
gimmick. As for the flour trick, the fiberglass can hold a blast of flour
just nicely. I did that test before. Hold flour in you hand and blow at
it towards a fiberglass filter. You will get the point.
Besides, salt and flour are apples and oranges, use the same baseline.
Granted, the pleated filters are better in the long run. Now what can I
do with the 10 50 cent filters that I have left over? Any good fiberglass
filter tricks out there? :)
Hvacmam
> In article <87af0be7.0211...@posting.google.com>,
> TimR <timot...@aol.com> wrote:
> [Lots of snips snipped]
>
>>But shed glass particulates? You gotta prove that to me. I've seen
>>
>
> Me too. Where is the proof. Why are they still being sold if they
> are so dangerous. Granted, they are they are better than no filter at
Let's just say that hospitals have higher standards than you do for the
air in them.