Special Tool for Manifold Bolts?

[V Harris]

I have an 86 Honda Accord with a carbureted 4 cylinder engine. The
head was replaced some time ago by a fly-by-night repair shop (that
has now flown). The engine has developed a manifold leak, and I see
the problem is missing nut on two of the studs that come out from the
head and through the bottom of the intake manifold.

I can see the studs through the gaps between the intake tubes on the
manifold. I'm pretty sure the fly-boys didn't put nuts on them
because they are impossible to get to with a regular straight 12 mm
wrench.

Is there a special tool or wrench that should be used to put the nuts
on these studs? It's pretty tight. It would have to go between, and
then wrap around the bottom of, the intake manifold tubes, yet still
provide enough motion on each turn to get the nut moved far enough for
the next turn.

Also, how do you go about properly torquing these intake manifold
nuts?

VH

[Eric]

Most shops will bolt up both the intake and exhaust manifolds to the
head before putting it back on the block. However, this information
doesn't apply in your case since the head has already been reinstalled.
The trick is to use a couple of different wrenches and go at it from the
bottom. It's not easy, but it can be done. Having the car up on a lift
such that you can stand under it will make the job easier but that's not
absolutely necessary. Here are some links to some wrenches that may
make this job manageable...

http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=yes&qt=1&test=Wrench%2C+Metric%2C+S-Shape+Box%2C+10-12+mm%2C+12-Point%3B+%2429.25%3BSBXM1012%3B5065&tool=all&INV_ONHAND=&FREIGHT=&qty=1&Item_id=5065&PartNo=SBXM1012&Price=+%2429.25&ListPrice=+%2429.25&FORMNAME=0&Desc=Wrench%2C+Metric%2C+S-Shape+Box%2C+10-12+mm%2C+12-Point&SUB_Cat_ID=1157903&SUB_Cat_NAME=Box+%2F+Specialty+%2F+Flank+Drive&Cat_ID=1157038&Cat_NAME=Wrenches&group_id=551&group_NAME=S%22+Shaped%2C+mm%2C+chrome&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=yes&qt=1&test=Wrench%2C+Metric%2C+Open+End%2C+4-Way+Angle+Head%2C+FLANK+DRIVE+PLUS%2C+12+mm%3B+%2427.75%3BSVSM12%3B5179&tool=all&INV_ONHAND=&FREIGHT=&qty=1&Item_id=5179&PartNo=SVSM12&Price=+%2427.75&ListPrice=+%2427.75&FORMNAME=0&Desc=Wrench%2C+Metric%2C+Open+End%2C+4-Way+Angle+Head%2C+FLANK+DRIVE+PLUS%2C+12+mm&SUB_Cat_ID=1157933&SUB_Cat_NAME=Open+End&Cat_ID=1157038&Cat_NAME=Wrenches&group_id=11567&group_NAME=Four-Way+Angle+Head+%28FLANK+DRIVE+Plus%29%2C+mm%2C+chrome&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

http://www.stahlwille.com/1007.jpg

Eric

[Aron]

I would definitely go from underneath. You should be able to tighten it
by hand. I don't think these are very tight - about the same as a spark
plug, I believe, but you can look it up in a library if you don't want to
buy a manual or maybe a dealer would be nice enough to tell you. It
wouldn't be a bad idea to have a machine shop check it for warping but you
probably don't want to rip it out. If it still leaks when it's tight it's
probably warped and you can have it machined to fix that.
"Eric" <say...@spam.now> wrote in message news:3DA0F9EC...@spam.now...

[The Rizzo's]

You could try a little magnet to get the nut where it belongs.

Then use a finger to get it started.

Once you catch the first thread, you're home free!

As for the torque, just use your wrench and tighten it up as good as you
can.

"V Harris" <VHarr...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:f2cb6d09.02100...@posting.google.com...