What compressor based tool to spray paint houses?
ississauga
on a regular basis. I and my employees have been using the roller but
it is labour intensive. I have a compressor, what tool can I use on it
to spray?
I know compressor based sprayers aren't the best way to go, but a high
quality airless sprayer is beyond me for now. I am thinking that I
could use a compressor based sprayer to do a good job in spraying
primer. Then I would continue to use roller for the final paint.
Dan Berry
"ississauga" <issis...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:14e8ca45.03061...@posting.google.com...
If you spray your paint then you will spend a substantial amount of time
preparing/covering/taping etc. Add in the cost of the machine and time for
maintenance, ventilation equipment/masks and it may never pay for itself for
small jobs. It doesn't take much time to use a 9 inch roller to paint a
basement. Spatter is minimal, cleanup is easy... I have an HVLP sprayer,
but it's too much effort to use for anything but a serious job, or a series
of items like an entire house worth of shutters laid out and prepped.
Figure 30 minutes to set up the machine, and and 30 minutes to an hour to
clean it properly... replacing the tips as they wear. Compare that with
rollers and 3 minutes to setup to paint and maybe 5 minutes to clean the
rollers at the end of the day (if you don't just buy new ones). Bid on an
apartment complex and the sprayer may make sense.... for residential
basements, stick with rollers. MHO.
Dan
Michael McNeil
> If you spray your paint then you will spend a substantial amount of time
> preparing/covering/taping etc. Add in the cost of the machine and time for
> maintenance, ventilation equipment/masks and it may never pay for itself for
> small jobs. It doesn't take much time to use a 9 inch roller to paint a
> basement. Spatter is minimal, cleanup is easy... I have an HVLP sprayer,
> but it's too much effort to use for anything but a serious job, or a series
> of items like an entire house worth of shutters laid out and prepped.
>
> Figure 30 minutes to set up the machine, and and 30 minutes to an hour to
> clean it properly... replacing the tips as they wear. Compare that with
> rollers and 3 minutes to setup to paint and maybe 5 minutes to clean the
> rollers at the end of the day (if you don't just buy new ones). Bid on an
> apartment complex and the sprayer may make sense.... for residential
> basements, stick with rollers. MHO.
>
> Dan
However a spray gun may always come in handy, especially if you need
the compressor onsite anyway. Get any old gun from a garage sale if
you have never used one before and completely strip it.
Use paint stripper on all the parts and reassemble. Try it out with
plain water and see how it alters as you adjust the settings. It is a
glorified hose-pipe with one major fault. It only holds about half a
litre or a pint of paint.
Mind you it can put that on in corners and hard to reach places -and
with a suitable ladle you can get through 5 litres in a very short
time.
Don't be tempted to get the most expensive spray gun on the market.
There may well be a difference in the quality if you are painting a
car, I doubt it would matter with a basement. All you need to watch
out for is that the fittings suit your compressor.
Jimmy Galvin
pressure to cause the vacuum required to pull the paint out of the gun. The
paint is simply too thick. I tried spraying a picnic table set and by the
time I thinned the paint enough for it to come out of the gun it was
useless. Rent an airless for now until you are ready to buy.
James Gifford
> Compressor sprayers will not spray house paint. They don't have enough
> pressure to cause the vacuum required to pull the paint out of the gun. The
> paint is simply too thick. I tried spraying a picnic table set and by the
> time I thinned the paint enough for it to come out of the gun it was
> useless. Rent an airless for now until you are ready to buy.
If you have all the prep work done, renting a big airless is a good way
to go. You can often do the painting in one to two days (more for extra
stories and "problem" areas).
But compressor guns can indeed throw thicker paints. You have to use a
pressure-feed gun, though, not a vacuum-feed one. I do it all the time.
(I chose to invest in air tools over individual powered ones - YMMV.)
--
|| James Gifford * jgif...@surewest.net ||
|| Robert Heinlein lives. See www.nitrosyncretic.com ||
|| So... your philosophy fits in a sig, does it? ||
Goedjn
If you can't afford a proper sprayer, you probably can't afford the
respirator(s) required to be running a paint-sprayer indoors, either.
If you were doing this just once, I wouldn't worry about it, but as
a career, spray painting without proper air handling is a good way
to make yourself seriously ill.
Eric Ryder
(even with the remote pressurepot). I have not tried all the needle/nozzle
combinations. I'd invest in a few 18" roller setups or rent decent
equipment. I've used cheap ($4-500) airless setups, they're so_so until
they break down (which is early and often).
"James Gifford" <jgif...@surewest.net> wrote in message
news:3EE9F931...@surewest.net...
George E. Cawthon
latex or any heavy paint, you need a pressure gun, not a
siphon gun. The paint gun I borrowed (old sears) will spray
a quart of heavy latex in less than 5 minutes at 45 psi (max
is 50 psi). HVLP (conversion guns) also have a problem with
spraying heavy stuff and the cheaper ones don't have
alternative larger nozzles available.
David W.
news:14e8ca45.03061...@posting.google.com:
In my experience, a normal spraygun generates way too much overspray to be
useful inside. An airless sprayer (like the Wagner units, but a commercial
version) or an HVLP (high volume, low pressure) sprayer would be much more
practical. Spraying is much more practical in new construction (or complete
rehab) where you can paint before window, door and floor moldings, carpets,
etc. are installed.
David Wallis
Michael McNeil
enough
pressure to cause the vacuum required to pull the paint out of the
gun. The
paint is simply too thick. I tried spraying a picnic table set and by
the
time I thinned the paint enough for it to come out of the gun it was
useless. Rent an airless for now until you are ready to buy."
If you rent or borrow or buy second hand, STRIP THE DAMNED THING! You
don't know who or what has been on that gun. Rental stuff is the worst
of all. If you are going to hire before you buy (an excellent idea)
make sure they supply you with the newest model they have.
"But compressor guns can indeed throw thicker paints. You have to use
a
pressure-feed gun, though, not a vacuum-feed one. I do it all the
time.
(I chose to invest in air tools over individual powered ones - YMMV.)"
Shows you what I know. I never knew thee were two types. I used to
spray Gel Coat for Fibregassing. It doesn't get much thicker than
that.
"My pressure fed Accuspray HVLP gun/Capspray turbine does poorly with
latex
(even with the remote pressurepot). I have not tried all the
needle/nozzle
combinations. I'd invest in a few 18" roller setups or rent decent
equipment. I've used cheap ($4-500) airless setups, they're so_so
until
they break down (which is early and often)."
It is imperative you strip your gun and give it all a thorough soak in
paint stripper and wash it thoroughly in the appropriate thinners each
time you use it.
"You just don't have the right type of gun. If you spray
latex or any heavy paint, you need a pressure gun, not a
siphon gun. The paint gun I borrowed (old sears) will spray
a quart of heavy latex in less than 5 minutes at 45 psi (max
is 50 psi). HVLP (conversion guns) also have a problem with
spraying heavy stuff and the cheaper ones don't have
alternative larger nozzles available."
How do you hold a quart at arms length time after time? You sets your
jets to suit your needs. There are any amount of jets sizes available,
all with infinite adjustment on a compressor sprayer.
"If you can't afford a proper sprayer, you probably can't afford the
respirator(s) required to be running a paint-sprayer indoors, either.
If you were doing this just once, I wouldn't worry about it, but as
a career, spray painting without proper air handling is a good way
to make yourself seriously ill."
You can get equiptment to run off the compressor. Rent and see. There
is a way of ionising the gun tip and making the paint elecromagnetic.
That would cut down the overspray to nothing if the basement was well
earthed. (How could it fail to be?)
"In my experience, a normal spraygun generates way too much overspray
to be
useful inside. An airless sprayer (like the Wagner units, but a
commercial
version) or an HVLP (high volume, low pressure) sprayer would be much
more
practical. Spraying is much more practical in new construction (or
complete
rehab) where you can paint before window, door and floor moldings,
carpets,
etc. are installed."
You have windows in basements over there?
The overspray problem would be the same surely or how can they still
be using them in top class vehicle finishes? Speaking of which they
use a lot more thinners in that side of the trade. They used standard
filters in fairly cheap masks in the days before cyano-paints were
invented.
When I started spraying gel coat, just like the woman already doing it
-who was a supervisor (and a tit -virtually unteachable) I used to
fill the room with overspray until one day the gel went off in the
gun. The boss came rushing out. Thankfully she was away at the time,
so I learned how to strip the gun. It's quite simple and I could do it
in minutes after following the fool a few times. It got so I wouldn't
touch the gun if she'd used it. Although she was a lab technician she
had no idea how to treble rinse to clean equiptment. One run through
with thinners and that was it.
I used 1/4 pot of thinners to clean it, another for a first rinse,
another for a second then a final rinse and put 1/8th in the pot for a
squeeze through before starting next day. And if it was empty it also
told me the fool had been using it -so it needed stripping. I never
had much overspray after that. We were doing 5 or 6 units a day and
condemning quite a few as she put it on too thin to polish. (We
couldn't open the moulds sometimes. If the gel is too thin it won't
"release.")
We could spray more than we could handle and in a fraction of the time
as she always lost the pot at least once -and us all finding jobs at
the other end of the factory. That is the difference with a clean gun.
(I never told her how I was doing it. And she would go over my work
for faults in minute detail.)
When they try and sell you those pump sprayers, if they ever tell you
you can leave paint in them, punch them in the gob. Clean your gun and
your lines last thing at night and give it a run through first thing
next day. Don't let anyone tell you any different! Don't let anyone
else near it either!
Post Script:
Me and her finally had a bust-up and I got the sack. I was on the same
money as I went in on, less than everyone else. I had just had a baby
and was fairly newly married and had a mortgage to find. But I was
glad to be on the dole. Some time later I went past their compound. It
was stacked with rejects.
Robert L. Bass
I ran a painting business many years ago. Airless sprayers were faster but
I bought a compressor based system to save money. Years later I bought a
DeVilbiss airless model, too. The airless units tend to use a lot more
paint if until you get used to using them. They are faster and there's less
masking required since the paint doesn't atomize as much as a compressor
type system does.
Cleanup: If you use latex paints cleanup is pretty much the same chore with
either type. Remove remaining paint from the tank / container. Run water
through the system until it runs clear. Clean the outside and all moving
parts with a damp rage. Dry.
Hazards: With compressed air sprayers you must use a dust mask no matter
what kind of paint you are spraying. With airless units if you do it right
you won't breathe paint. However, airless guns deliver the paint to the
nozzle at an incredible velocity / pressure. If you accidentally spray it
at your hand it can literally inject paint into you. Tissue damage can be
severe. IOW, be careful no matter which type you use.
Speed: Commercial airless systems are amazingly fast -- much faster than
compressed air. I used to paint single-story homes in Florida while I was
in college. I'd paint the outside of a typical 2,000 sf house in one
afternoon. Because most of these houses had vinyl or aluminum windows there
was virtually no need to cut in around them. Only the doors needed any
brush work on most jobs.
I used to keep a bunch of cardboard in the truck. I'd tape a piece of
cardboard to one of those plastic and metal carpet protectors from the paint
store to catch any overspray. With that one tool and my DeVilbiss I could
"cut in" around a window frame in less than 30 seconds. Nice!
By using the airless system I was able to do a very neat job in less than
half the time I normally needed. I could always sell more work than I
needed so the airless paid for itself quickly.
I've used both types to do basements up in New Jersey which is north of the
"Basement-Dixon" line. Many of these jobs called for water-proofing paint
(which really isn't water proof but it helps somewhat). The stuff was too
thick to go through the compressed air system. It worked fine with the
DeVilbiss though.
Regards,
Robert
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Robert L. Bass
>
> Compressor sprayers will not spray house paint. They don't have enough
> pressure to cause the vacuum required to pull the paint out of the gun.
That's news to me. I've painted hundreds of homes using a compressed air
system. The paint is not delivered to the gun via vacuum. It goes inside a
2.5-gallon pressurized tank and is pumped to the spray head through a hose.
The compressed air is in a parallel hose.
Mark in SC
There is a lot of good info people have been saying, but, the question is
how many CFM does your compressor put out, is it a single stage or twin
Stage, one for Jack Hammers? Why? I ran a Spray gun for almost hour while
painting the parts to a friends motorcycle, and the single stage compressor
ran constantly. (80 Gallon upright twin cylinder but both cylinders pumped
into the tank instead of one larger cylinder pumping into a second smaller
cylinder then to the tank.) plus the heat generated was impressive. They are
great for Lacquer or Thinned Enamels in well ventilated controlled
environments like spray booths, but I have found the more affordable ones
are no good for Latex or oil base unless you thin them out to the point of
having to do more coats for a quality finish.
Interior Renovations/Painting in an occupied dwelling, I prefer one or
two person(s) cut in, one person roll (two or three person crew). goes quite
fast and no need to mask, no fear of the appliances with Pilot lights
flashing the overspray or heating / cooling appliances sucking in paint
particles / overspray and homeowners complaining about the paint odor
throughout entire house due to appliance distribution(When I lived in NY it
was Furnace or Cent.Air, in SC it is AC or Heat Pumps). Of course, you can't
stop 100% of the odors. but they are "heavier" in atomized (Sprayed) form.
New Construction, unoccupied dwelling.... Airless sprayer, Good quality
respirator is a must. There is a product you spray onto the windows (sorry,
Can't remember the name of it) to mask them and when you're done painting,
just cut the perimeter of the glass and peal it off. Can be painted over so
don't worry about getting it on the trim.
HVLP with Multi staged turbine is the ultimate for absolute top quality
finishes but I prefer those for furniture, cabinets, doors, accessories and
trim if painted before install.
Rental equipment, I've lost hours by acquiring damaged and dirty equipment
that I had to take back or re-clean before use. Be sure to check it out
thoroughly before leaving the rental place.
Now, Before you all roast me, I'm sure there are folk's that have tried and
true methods that don't agree with mine, so feel free to educate me.
"ississauga" <issis...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
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