How to attach a rain gutter ????
davi...@nospam.com
The steel on the roof extends approx 6 inches past the wall, thus the
end of the roof steel sheets are sticking out, with no framing (wood)
under them. This makes sense because otherwise all the runoff water
would run down the wall.
I want to install about 12 feet of rain gutter above the 9 foot long
sliding door, so there isn't always a mudhole in front of the door
during rainy seasons. (the rest of the barn does not need gutters).
The problem is, how do I attach the gutters with this 6 inches of tin
hanging past the wall? (Cutting off the tin is not an option).
I dont care what type of rain gutter is used. It can be the modern
K-style steel, or the plastic, or even the old fashioned round stuff
(if they still sell it). I don't intend to use a downspout. I just
want the water from the roof kept away from the door. Besides the mud
in front of the door, if the wind is blowing a certain way, the roof
water blows inside the barn when the door is open (which is usually is
during hot weather, so the animals stay cool).
Does anyone know how to deal with this? Do they make a special gutter
for this sort of application? (I did think if stacking several 2x4's
and attaching them to the wall, but that seems rather clumbsy and ugly
in appearance).
Thanks for all help.
David
Dave Bugg
> Does anyone know how to deal with this? Do they make a special gutter
> for this sort of application? (I did think if stacking several 2x4's
> and attaching them to the wall, but that seems rather clumbsy and ugly
> in appearance).
Attach a run of 2x4 to the wall, then attach the gutter to the 2x4.
--
Dave www.davebbq.com
What is best in life? "To crush your enemies, see them driven before
you, and to hear the lamentation of the women." -- Conan
pipedown
<davi...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:q6mr249ij3cmf4r6u...@4ax.com...
Rather than a gutter, you can create a sort of dam above the door on the
surface of the roof.
Just get two 8 foot pieces of aluminum angle (you know it has an L shaped
profile) AKA angle iron
You can drill and use sheet metal screws to attach it to the top surface of
the roof above the door in sort of an inverted V shape to direct the water
to either side of the door. Use silicone caulk on the screws when you drive
them. This also helps deflect snow slides over the door better than
gutters.
If the roof is made of corrigated steel this won't not work because the
water will only run striaght down the corrigations and won't be deflected
sideways.
I hope you understand it without a picture.
Eric in North TX
I did that on my pole barn. I used metal hangers intended to attach to
the roof. If you look at the gutter supplies they should be there.
I just used a self tapping screw with the rubber washer in each, + a
few screws though the roof into the back flange of the gutter just
to keep it from swaying, could only do that at the high end though.
Here is more or less what I used:
http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-31351/Detail
Wayne Boatwright
If the roof is corrugated steel, couldn't you attach the angle shaped
aluminum to the bottom side of the roofing edge?
--
Wayne Boatwright
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cshenk
.> The problem is, how do I attach the gutters with this 6 inches of tin
> hanging past the wall? (Cutting off the tin is not an option).
blows inside the barn when the door is open (which is usually is
> during hot weather, so the animals stay cool).
Call me stupid here, but can you just curl the metal up to make a lip over
the door section without damaging the metal? Just make a sort of funnel
with the existing roof so rain hits to the sides of the door? Like a really
heavy deep socket wrench and work it in parts til you have a 'lip curl' at
least 2 inches deep, might need 3?
If that doesnt work for you, and i'm right in asumptions that look isnt all
that important, 2 other ideas come to mind.
1- using some sort of rivet to attach, take a flange of metal with a 90
degree bend and high enough for your purposes, and just attach this to the
end of the roof as far as you need it to go. Use caulk if the little bits
that get past this is a problem. (It wont be as pretty or easy as just
curling the metal, but it will work better).
2- Using some old tires cut up, and again a rivet gun, put those up along
just like #1 above. The problem is this wont last as well and i suspect in
hot weather they will curl back up too strongly for a longer term fix.
ransley
I cant see it, but screwing the gutter straps to the roof is the
normal way.the gutter then hangs under the roof.
evodawg
>
> Call me stupid here, but can you just curl the metal up to make a lip over
> the door section without damaging the metal? Just make a sort of funnel
> with the existing roof so rain hits to the sides of the door? Like a
> really heavy deep socket wrench and work it in parts til you have a 'lip
> curl' at least 2 inches deep, might need 3?
>
> If that doesnt work for you, and i'm right in asumptions that look isnt
> all that important, 2 other ideas come to mind.
>
> 1- using some sort of rivet to attach, take a flange of metal with a 90
> degree bend and high enough for your purposes, and just attach this to the
> end of the roof as far as you need it to go. Use caulk if the little bits
> that get past this is a problem. (It wont be as pretty or easy as just
> curling the metal, but it will work better).
>
> 2- Using some old tires cut up, and again a rivet gun, put those up along
> just like #1 above. The problem is this wont last as well and i suspect
> in hot weather they will curl back up too strongly for a longer term fix.
Well you said it stupid!!! This application must take a "special bracket"
which is probably available. Google gutters metal roof, or pole barn, no
soffit. See what you come up with.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"
Running Mandriva release 2008.0 free-i586 using KDE on i586
mike
Or, you could not install gutters at all and work on the ground
drainage: For example:
mike
>
> - Show quoted text -
P.S. When a gutter gets plugged up with leaves and fills up with
water it gets HEAAAAAVY. Just something to keep in mind. You got
8.33 lb per gallon of water.
S. Barker
screws and little 'L' brackets. THEN to support the outer part of the
gutter, you'd need some straps like they use on conventional roofs without
eaves and facia boards.
Another possible solution would be some rather large "L" brackets fashioned
onto the WALL, and then let the gutter actually SIT on the brackets. I
suppose they could even be 2x4 wood, depending on how you want things to
look. Of course all these options could be painted to match the wall/ roof.
s
<davi...@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:q6mr249ij3cmf4r6u...@4ax.com...
S. Barker
s
"mike" <yellow...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:ec3dd85f-31c4-479b...@n1g2000prb.googlegroups.com...
buffalobill
buffalo ny: some thoughts, who needs the water, what is its secondary
use, where must the water be legally put compared to where you may
need it, when is the heaviest water downfall and freezing season, why
not lay out the job with a laser level to be sure to pitch it where
you want it, how much water per hour will determine the gutter and
downspout sizes.
see also:
http://www.buildingscienceconsulting.com/resources/
aemeijers
So far, this answer is the closest. I've seen plenty of modern barns
with a gutter or eyebrow above the sliding doors. Go to the local supply
house that the pole barn builders use, or even back to whoever built
your barn, if they are still in business. I'll bet the wholesaler where
they get their fittings carries a purpose-built material that will fit
the corrugation patterns to attach a short awning and/or gutter to the
roof edge or wall above the door. You definitely aren't the only person
that ever had this problem. You do also need a sloped apron on the
ground in front of the door, sticking out at least a couple of feet.
Concrete would be best, but well-drained gravel would also work. If
nothing else, some short sections of the same roof panels to extend the
roof a couple of feet, tucked under the existing panels far enough the
reach the framing, would help a lot. Roof is probably screwed down, so
unscrewing the bottom couple of feet should not be a big deal. Slide
the panels under, and replace the old screws with slightly longer ones
with the built-in gaskets.
--
aem sends...
C & E
If you decide on the 2x4 approach don't forget to use a pressure treated
product. If the aesthetics are too revolting for you, a local siding
company who can bend a covering for you. JAT
Chuck
S. Barker
Just use plain old lumber and paint with exterior paint. Hell, your whole
house exterior is not pressure treated is it?
s
"C & E" <chizz...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:482f53a5$0$11136$470e...@news.pa.net...
mike
> And how would that help the rain from blowing in his open door?
It doesn't. But every solution is going to be a less-than-perfect
compromise. The OP is going to have to pick out which compromise
suits him best. Some rain is going to blow in no matter what you do.