painting garage floor
KenDoo
hear from
somebody who has done it. Does it hold up well? Chip easy? Would you do
it again?
Any additional info would be appreciated.
Tony Gerardis
home depot (Reno Depot here in Quebec). It came in a nice dark gray
color which was exactly what I was looking for. I love it and it did
a great job, I've dropped some really heavy objects on that floor
accidently which I thought would really chip it, but NO, it seems to
be able to take a good beating....
However do note and read some of the instructions carefully.... If you
are applying it to BARE concrete floor, make sure to clean the floor
properly to remove any gas/oil stains. Also make sure to thin out the
first coat of paint in order to allow it to stick more to the
concrete. If the first coat is too thick, it will most probably be
more prone to chipping and peeling.
My floor was also quite pitted (house was built over 30 years ago), so
I used the el cheapo model of the Wagner Power painter. This unit is
useless for most work (it usually take longer to clean it than to do
the job), but for this job it was perfect since it sprayed the paint
into some really deep and hard to reach crevices and pits which
would've been a pain or even impossible with a brush and roller.
If you use a sprayer, do not hold it to high otherwise you will have
more fumes than you want. Also go around the corners/edges with a
brush or roller first, in order to avoid getting to close to the wall
with the spray gun and filling your walls with paint fumes. And also
make sure to have enough/proper ventilation.
I would recommend it to everyone who has a concrete garage floor. If
you get any oil or gas drippings they clean up relatively painlessly
assuming you don't leave them there for weeks to eat through the
paint.
Hope this gives you an idea...
L8r..
------
Tony Gerardis
Montreal, Quebec
Canada
On Mon, 14 Dec 1998 19:57:45 -0500, "KenDoo" <am...@frontiernet.net>
wrote:
Reinier
wrote:
I want to do this too in my new house. How did you clean the floor
before you did it ? Will a high presure washer be enough you think ?
And did it get more slippery after the paint ? I have a driveway that
is the same concrete as my garagefloor, can you use this stuff for the
outside too ?
thanks,
Reinier
L Gentzsch
be good for garage floors.
PBroussard
In article <367a623f...@news.impulsedata.net>, rruite...@yahoo.com
(Reinier) writes:
>I want to do this too in my new house. How did you clean the floor
>before you did it ? Will a high presure washer be enough you think ?
>And did it get more slippery after the paint ? I have a driveway that
>is the same concrete as my garagefloor, can you use this stuff for the
>outside too ?
Clean oil spots with an oil and grease emulsifier, then acid wash the entire
floor. This will etch the floor, providing a good surface for the epoxy to bond
to. Don't skimp on the prep portion, as it is the #1 cause of problems for
concrete floor problems. The floor will be fairly slippery, unless you mix some
skid resistant material in with the topcoat (very fine sand). Note that adding
the anti skid will make it harder to clean the floor, sort of defeating the
purpose. Unless your garage gets wet a lot, I wouldn't worry about it. All
these materials are available at any major paint store or home centers.
Broussard Painting Contractors, friend of Bill's
"Careful. We don't want to learn from this." -- Calvin
Steve J. Noll
wrote:
>You might also look into one of the new concrete "stains". Supposed to
>be good for garage floors.
I did my garage floor in H&C Concrete Stain. It was one I found
recommended on the 'net. Followed the instructions to the "T" and
used their own brand of etcher/cleaner. Goes on very well, but came
off on the car tires - not the usual hot dry car tires, but cold wet
ones! Next garage I'll try epoxy.
Steve J. Noll | Ventura California | sjn...@ix.netcom.com
| www.netcom.com/~sjnoll/usedequip.html
| www.netcom.com/~sjnoll/peltier.html
ica...@ix.netcom.com
year old house, and plan on making the 2 car garage my work shop. I
have lots of tools and machines, and am painting the floor to block
moisture buildup in the garage (to minimize rusting of all my
expensive cast iron). It will also make cleanup a bit easier.
I plan on first degreasing with hot TSP solution. Then scrub&wash w/
20% muriatic acid to etch floor. After drying for several days, I'll
use epoxy paint for garage floors.
My question: HD carries a one part acrylic (I think) epoxy. Lowes
carries a 2 part expoxy. Both cover the same amount (I'll need about
2 gallons to cover about 450 sq ft with 1 coat). Which version is
preferrable? 1 part or 2 part? Now, the 1 part is a lot more
convenient. But, is it as durable as the 2 part? Does it matter?
Jeff
PBroussard
In article <367a89f1...@nntp.ix.netcom.com>, ica...@ix.netcom.com
writes:
>My question: HD carries a one part acrylic (I think) epoxy. Lowes
>carries a 2 part expoxy. Both cover the same amount (I'll need about
>2 gallons to cover about 450 sq ft with 1 coat). Which version is
>preferrable? 1 part or 2 part? Now, the 1 part is a lot more
>convenient. But, is it as durable as the 2 part? Does it matter?
>
Don't know what brand you're talking about, but I do know that Benjamin Moore's
Porch and Floor is as tough as you need. They regulary spec that coating for
industrial use, I'm told by our local store. The 2 part exoxies are tougher,
more expensive, and more hassle to put on, but with proper prep (a must for
either type of coating), will give you a finish that's as tough as nails. Be
aware, though, that the one part coatings need a few weeks to harden, if you
drive on them too soon, they may lift. Same would go for the stains, as one
poster said he had problems with.
ica...@ix.netcom.com
lightbulbs. while I was there, I picked up a brochure for the one
part acrylic epoxy. It's made by Behr, and it's definitely a water
based one part epoxy. According to the can, they recommend at least
48 to 72 hours of curing time before putting anything on the paint,
and at least a week till full cure.
Now, I plan on painting the floor come the first week of February.
I'm in central NC, where winter days here have been in the mid 40s. I
hope that the garage floor will warm up to at least the 50 degrees
this paint requires for application. I'll have to measure floor temps
before starting.
Jeff
On Fri, 18 Dec 1998 17:05:20 GMT, ica...@ix.netcom.com wrote:
>I, too am planning on painting my garage floor. I'm buying a "new" 5
>year old house, and plan on making the 2 car garage my work shop. I
>have lots of tools and machines, and am painting the floor to block
>moisture buildup in the garage (to minimize rusting of all my
>expensive cast iron). It will also make cleanup a bit easier.
>
>I plan on first degreasing with hot TSP solution. Then scrub&wash w/
>20% muriatic acid to etch floor. After drying for several days, I'll
>use epoxy paint for garage floors.
>
>My question: HD carries a one part acrylic (I think) epoxy. Lowes
>carries a 2 part expoxy. Both cover the same amount (I'll need about
>2 gallons to cover about 450 sq ft with 1 coat). Which version is
>preferrable? 1 part or 2 part? Now, the 1 part is a lot more
>convenient. But, is it as durable as the 2 part? Does it matter?
>
tw...@pop.omah.uswest.net
the winter?
Reinier wrote:
> On Tue, 15 Dec 1998 13:07:47 GMT, SOM...@cae.ca (Tony Gerardis)
> I want to do this too in my new house. How did you clean the floor
> before you did it ? Will a high presure washer be enough you think ?
> And did it get more slippery after the paint ? I have a driveway that
> is the same concrete as my garagefloor, can you use this stuff for the
> outside too ?
>
> thanks,
>
> Reinier
John Schultz
tw...@pop.omah.uswest.net wrote in message
<36806636...@pop.omah.uswest.net>...
>I wonder how the epoxy will hold up to the salt that drips off a vehicle in
>the winter?
>
John www.o-geepaint.com
TinMan1332
>>the winter?
>>
>Certainly, provided that you have a good uniform coating applied
The product MSDS will address this exact situation and give a rating on
resistance of salt and alkali. Ask for an MSDS sheet prior to purchasing the
product and it will disclose how the product you have selected will respond.
J.P.
tz...@my-dejanews.com
SOM...@cae.ca (Tony Gerardis) wrote:
> Well I used an EPOXY based enamel floor paint which I found at the
> home depot (Reno Depot here in Quebec). It came in a nice dark gray
> color which was exactly what I was looking for. I love it and it did
> a great job, I've dropped some really heavy objects on that floor
> accidently which I thought would really chip it, but NO, it seems to
> be able to take a good beating....
Well, I used a Home Depot epoxy paint, after doing an acid wash on a brand
new floor (well cured for 6 months). It looked OK and all, but when the
summer came, and hot tires hit the floor, up it came. It turned out not to be
very durable at all.
So, I did it right this time, and it looks like a winner: 1) rented a shot
blaster (total cost around $200) which took off the top few mils of the
floor, leaving a perfect profile for putting an epoxy paint down, and all in
a dustless manner. Kind of a pain to setup, but once setup, I blasted 600 sq
ft in 3 hours. Fast. And no dust, at all. 2) researched paint like crazy.
Came down to it that for DIY, you have to skip some of the real pro products
with high solid content, because they are quite toxic and have high odor due
to high VOC and whatnot. I went with a two part epoxy water based paint from
Sierra High Performance in the Bay Area. Costs $70 per one gallon kit!! Not
cheap, but came highly recommended. 3) Applied it in 60 degree weather,
barely enough according to the paint salesman. Rolled it on with 3/8" nap.
Two coats, recoat after 3-4 hours. First coat had a bit too much hardener
mixed in... it started getting real goopy after only 90 minutes... I had to
hustle to get it all down. 4) Result is a nice gloss on a floor with profile
still (due to the blasting) which is good, as it is a self anti-skid finish
in a sense. Perfect. Driving on it, and so far so good,seems very very hard.
I mean like steel. I spilled onto my workbench a drop or two, and it's like
steel, I can't chip it off.
My advice, go the extra effort in prep, and buy the good paint. Otherwise,
like me, you'll be doing the job all over again in 12 months!
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