This line was installed by the builder in 1998, and has a plastic
coupler at the toilet end. This coupler is what failed - it split open.
The result was approximately $25K in damage - most of the carpeting,
vinyl floors in both bathrooms and laundry, all of the MDF baseboards,
and repainting of rooms except the previously-mentioned front bedrooms.
State Farm took great care of us, and between the work done by a local
company to remove ruined stuff, dry everything out and do some of the
repairs, plus the work I did myself, we were able to move back into the
house starting in May.
But here's the thing: I inspected the coupling on the hall bathroom
toilet, and it was starting to crack too. So when I replaced them, I
tried to find supply lines that had metal couplings, but no joy.
They're ALL plastic now. But I noticed the new ones are made with more
solid thicker plastic than the ones that failed.
So my advice is this: Check those toilet supply lines, and replace them
if they look like they're starting to crack - it'll save you a lot of grief!
--Steve
>So my advice is this: Check those toilet supply lines, and replace
them
>if they look like they're starting to crack - it'll save you a lot of
grief!
>
>--Steve
Thanks for the heads up, I wouldn't have thought to check those.
Cheri
> So when I replaced them, I tried to find supply lines that had metal
> couplings, but no joy. They're ALL plastic now.
If you want all metal construction, try a corrugated stainless steel
water supply connector. Here's one manufacturer of them, there are
others: <http://www.falconstainless.com>.
Cheers, Wayne
>So my advice is this: Check those toilet supply lines, and replace them
>if they look like they're starting to crack - it'll save you a lot of grief!
The may even crack when installed, so don't over tighten. Same with
any of the plastic fasteners.
I bought a chromed hard line from my local plumbing supply; it has a
brass nut on it. I think that that was actually two separate pieces,
so you could probably buy the brass nut separately. I assume you're
talking about the nut that attaches to the bottom of the fill valve,
yes?
nate
That, and turning off the water to an unoccupied house...
s
"Steve" <sm...@sureNOSPAMwest.net> wrote in message
news:L4SdnZkbtq4-eB3V...@posted.surewest...
nate
--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
s
"Nate Nagel" <njn...@roosters.net> wrote in message
news:g5rd8...@news2.newsguy.com...
A neighbor turned his off and apparently left the valves to the washer open.
The selenoids on his washer apparently need pressure to work properly so
they started leaking and the caused siphoning out of his water
heater.........
"Steve Barker DLT" <railph...@always.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:xcqdnbFMSZdE3RzV...@giganews.com...
I shut off my water for anything more than a day...Power down the HW
heater etc etc..