>> A workman mentioned a "special paint" that is good for outside
>>wood. He doesn't know the name. Any ideas?
>
>Acrylic house paint... ask for it at the dealer of your choice in the sheen of
>your choice.
Am a little surprised to hear this. Would have thoujght an oil-based
paint would be better.
Can you explain why your recommendation? Thanks!
--
Polar
One problem is that oil paint is too impervious to water vapor, meaning
that any moisture inside the wood will cause it to blister. Latex (and
acrylic) paint will allow water vapor to escape even while shedding rain
very well.
Yes, the acrylic will breathe and the acrylic is far more flexable than oil
during the expansion and contraction cycles.
And ... it's much less brittle- cracks let water in and don't let vapors out
well; most varieties are self-ablative- the surface is slowly eroded away by
the sun. That, and the inherently thinner coat, simplifies prep next time.
You could sure see the difference in my house.
Regards,
John
OK, you-all just about have me sold.
Now, what about prep? The "whatever paint" that's on there now is
cracking and flaking, revealing bare wood.
What kind of primer should I use?
--
Polar
Best thing to do is to strip it all down (especially any cracked areas)
to bare wood. A hot air gun is usually helpful. What can't be stripped
should be cleaned well (wash with TSP and rinse) and lightly sanded if
glossy. Then prime all bare wood with (my favorite) exterior alkyd
primer (eg, Moorewhite) or the best quality exterior latex primer you
can find.
Always use the best quality paint you can find. Generally
Benjamin-Moore or Sherwin-Williams is a safe bet. Stay away from
department store stuff unless you really like painting every two years.
Never heard of it. What are they, and are they expensive? This is a
one-time thing, so don't want to get in over my head.
What can't be stripped
>should be cleaned well (wash with TSP and rinse) and lightly sanded if
>glossy.
Might have to do that, since the cracking/flaking is not uniform. But
then, maybe if I try, I can pry up under and get it off in sheets.
Then prime all bare wood with (my favorite) exterior alkyd
>primer (eg, Moorewhite) or the best quality exterior latex primer you
>can find.
I have some in the garage. It is dynamite stuff.
>
>Always use the best quality paint you can find. Generally
>Benjamin-Moore or Sherwin-Williams is a safe bet. Stay away from
>department store stuff unless you really like painting every two years.
I've been using BM for years.
Thanks for help.
--
Polar
Any hardware store or home center should have one. They start around
$15. In a pinch you can use a propane torch instead, but it's more
dangerous. Also get some Red Devil paint scrapers in several sizes.
They have a red wood handle and a sort of T shaped blade in the end.
(Or get something similar -- there are others with plastic handles and
replaceable blades that work as well or better.)
They are like hair dryers but with a much slower running fan and a
metal nozzle. Will generate temperatures around 1000 degrees. Usually
have two or more heat settings. A basic unit will cost somewhere
around $20 I think.
Nice tool to have around.
David Inman
"Polar" <sme...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:iraoisc4df5gqpjub...@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 24 May 2000 01:10:29 GMT, Daniel Hicks <danh...@ieee.org>
> wrote:
>
> >Best thing to do is to strip it all down (especially any cracked
areas)
> >to bare wood. A hot air gun is usually helpful.
>
> Never heard of it. What are they, and are they expensive? This is
a
> one-time thing, so don't want to get in over my head.
>
>Re the question on hot air guns.
>
>They are like hair dryers but with a much slower running fan and a
>metal nozzle. Will generate temperatures around 1000 degrees. Usually
>have two or more heat settings. A basic unit will cost somewhere
>around $20 I think.
>
>Nice tool to have around.
Thank you very much for explanation. Can it be used for other
purposes than stripping paint?
--
Polar
They're great for melting the glue inside hockey sticks so a new head
can be installed.
Well, if you don't mind the burning smell you can use them to dry your
hair. (:-)) They can be used to shrink heat-shrink tubing, emboss
paper with the embossing ink and powder sold in craft stores, thaw just
about anything (steaks, pipes, frozen fuel lines).
Remove Paint, Decals, Floor Tiles
Strip paint for refinishing
Soften adhesives, Caulking and Putty
Thaw frozen pipes, Locks, Etc.
De-ice roof gutters and downspouts
Loosen rusted Nuts, Bolts and Fittings
Bend Plastic Sheets and Pipe
Shrink Shrink Tubing and Film
Burn weeds between flagstones, Mildew on brick and Concrete block
walls
All I've ever used it for is stripping paint - and it's been well
worth the $21 I paid for it.
Cheers
David Inman
"Polar" <sme...@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:qgfrisghbb3u6heqa...@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 25 May 2000 08:17:21 -0700, "David Inman"
> <york...@ftconnect.com> wrote:
>
> >Re the question on hot air guns.
> >
> >They are like hair dryers but with a much slower running fan and a
> >metal nozzle. Will generate temperatures around 1000 degrees.
Usually
> >have two or more heat settings. A basic unit will cost somewhere
> >around $20 I think.
> >
> >Nice tool to have around.
>
> Thank you very much for explanation. Can it be used for other
> purposes than stripping paint?
>
>
>
>
> >
>The manual for my Ace Hardware heat gun states:
>
>Remove Paint, Decals, Floor Tiles
>Strip paint for refinishing
>Soften adhesives, Caulking and Putty
>Thaw frozen pipes, Locks, Etc.
>De-ice roof gutters and downspouts
>Loosen rusted Nuts, Bolts and Fittings
>Bend Plastic Sheets and Pipe
>Shrink Shrink Tubing and Film
>Burn weeds between flagstones, Mildew on brick and Concrete block
>walls
That alone! Obviate use of Roundup, about which I'm still iffy.
>
>All I've ever used it for is stripping paint - and it's been well
>worth the $21 I paid for it.
Shucks, man, if it don't whiten mah teeth, I cain't see puttin' out
21 big ones.
(joke)
Amazing set of uses. I'm off to the playroom -- aka hardware store.
--
Polar