I purposely try to get this section by turning the brush upside down
with fresh paint thinner on it and working it with the comb.
What am I doing wrong, or is this just life? Thanks.
A few thing I find helpful:
Clean brush *immediately* after using it, and put in freezer between coats,
rather than wrap it or stick it a thinner can.
Work brush briskly in pint of thinner, bending bristles and sloshing well.
Then hold brush, bristles up, and pour lots of clean thinner slowly down
towards the handle, squeezing dry periodically , freeing paint at the base
of bristles.. Once fairly clean, I dry thinner-soaked brush in large rag,
then hand wash brush in warm water and dish detergent to get the thinner
out, squeeze till just damp, and wrap in paper towel tightly to settle
sproinged hairs, and to set the brush shape. Put in dry place to thoroughly
dry. Leave it in the paper, for next use. I know this is complicated, but I
have good brushes that have been used for 15-20 years and are still usable.
Do not use paint thinner to clean brushes. Use a brush cleaner.
It takes me about 10-15 minutes to clean a brush and there are several
important steps to doing it well. That's why I buy a box of
throw-away brushes and have a (very) few $25 brushes. My expensive
brushes are usually the ones I reach for, at the penalty of spending
the time to clean it. Expensive brushes will hold up well to
multiple cleanings, cheap brushes lose their bristles and fall apart.
if you want to slop it on get cheap brushes.
randy
"raymondj" <poiso...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:5099d40b.04082...@posting.google.com...
Geezzzz, I just use soap and water, until the water runs clear from it. Is
it bad to clean them this way?
On 29 Aug 2004 16:04:38 -0700, poiso...@yahoo.com (raymondj) wrote:
1. Don't dip the brush so deep into the paint (1/3 is fine)
2. After use, suspend in thinner. By "suspend" I mean hang it so the part
with paint is covered and the brush bottom doesn't rest on the bottom of the
receptacle. Most of the paint will dissolve out and settle to the bottom of
the can. I then squeeze out as much as possible by wrapping a paper towel
around the bristles and "milking" them from ferrule to brush tip. Still
dirty? Repeat suspending and milking as necessary; use clean thinner for
the final go. If there are bits/flecks of dried paint that the thinner
won't touch, I use a comb, never a wire brush.
3. Once clean, shape the bristles, suspend again until dry and then store.
4. To remove the crud now in your brush, use brush cleaner.
As an aside, the thing that ruins most brushes is standing them on their
bristles and/or drying them so that the bristles aren't down. I have always
used shaving brushes...rinse, squeeze and shake, stand up to dry. I went
through a lot of brushes that way because ultimately the bristle base would
get compacted with soap and the bristles would loosen and fall out. Finally
wised up and started suspending with bristles down...that brush is now 30
years old and good as new.
--
dadiOH
_____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.0...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
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"call_me_al" <call_...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:18224-413...@storefull-3235.bay.webtv.net...
This is exactly what I am doing!
BTW: My problem is related to polyurathane if that makes a difference.
Really???
Are we talking Natural Bristle brushes that were used with oil based
products like Polyurethane?
"xrongor" <nos...@spammyspam.com> wrote in message news:<i5GdnbAPpqd...@bresnan.com>...
"m Ransley" <ran...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:21340-41...@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net...
Never clean a natural bristle brush with water, it'll swell.
Here's my cleaning formula:
1. The instant you're done with the brush throw it in a coffee can of
paint thinner. Now work it in the thinner. (swish, swish, swish...)
2. Now repeat #1 with fresh thinnner (ie swish, swish, swish...) and
spin it dry when you're done.
3. Now take some fresh laquer thinner and give it a third cleaning.
Laquer thinner removes some of the residual left behind with paint
thinner.
4. Now give it a final spin dry.
5. Finally take a few drops of mineral oil and massage it into the
bristles so they look shiny.
6. Put the brush back into the factory sleeve and hang it by the
handle. Never let a brush rest by standing it up on it's bristles.
poiso...@yahoo.com (raymondj) wrote in message news:<5099d40b.04082...@posting.google.com>...
I assume "spin dry" is the same as "shake violently dry"
One thing that I never do is hang the brushes. I always put them back
in their covers and lay them down horizontally. Perhaps this is my
biggest mistake?
dav...@gmail.com (davefr) wrote in message news:<76e099a9.0408...@posting.google.com>...
> Thanks for your reply. I'll have to try 3 and 5, sounds like good
> ideas.
>
> I assume "spin dry" is the same as "shake violently dry"
>
[snip]
The poster may have been referring to a brush and roller spinner. IMHO
they're the secret to cleaning brushes. You can extract far more liquid than
by shaking. It also makes it possible to reuse good roller covers pretty
much indefinitely.
When using rollers on latex, I finish cleaning them by spinning
them at high speed by grazing the surface with the jet from a
blaster nozzle on the garden hose. Sweep the jet back and forth
across the surface, spinning the roller fast, until the water
coming off is clear.
Bob
randy
"raymondj" <poiso...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:5099d40b.04083...@posting.google.com...