Wet Drywall - How to Repair?
Leo Shea
drywall on the ceiling around an HVAC register to become wet. It was
wet enough that water dripped to the carpet below. I'm not sure if
the water which dripped to the carpet came through the drywall itself
or between the register and the surrounding drywall.
When the drywall company came out to repair it a few months ago (the
house is about a year old so it was still under warranty) they claimed
the drywall was not damaged (and knocked on it a couple times to show
me) and simply put some mud over the water stain. This was never
painted, and I can still see the water stain.
I've got my one-year drywall repair coming up soon. Should I ask them
to replace this drywall? At this time I don't detect anything wrong
with the drywall (i.e. the paper is still good, it's not crumbling)
except for the water stain which wasn't painted over.
Colbyt
"Leo Shea" <langle...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:83026ea7.03021...@posting.google.com...
Unless it leaked very heavy or for a long period of time most likely the
drywall is fine. Crumbling, bubbling and taped seems separating are the
signs of failure. The water stain will bleed through most latex based paints
forever. It can as you have described come through a thin skim coat of
drywall mud. The proper way is to prime the affected area with a "stain
killing" primer like Benz or Kiltz and then paint the entire ceiling with
the finish coat. Sounds to be like your builder needs to properly take care
of this for you.
Colbyt
jeffc
> drywall on the ceiling around an HVAC register to become wet. It was
> wet enough that water dripped to the carpet below. I'm not sure if
> the water which dripped to the carpet came through the drywall itself
> or between the register and the surrounding drywall.
>
> When the drywall company came out to repair it a few months ago (the
> house is about a year old so it was still under warranty) they claimed
> the drywall was not damaged (and knocked on it a couple times to show
> me) and simply put some mud over the water stain. This was never
> painted, and I can still see the water stain.
It's possible that the drywall wasn't damaged and you just have a water
stain, but if they put mud over the water stain, they don't know what
they're doing. It needs a stain blocker. Generally, you put oil based
stain blockers over water-soluble stains, and water based stain blockers
over oil-soluble stains. Since the solvents are different, you won't get
bleedthrough. Not only is mud not a stain blocker, but it's water soluble
just like the water stain. When the stain got wet, it just soaked right
through again.
> I've got my one-year drywall repair coming up soon. Should I ask them
> to replace this drywall? At this time I don't detect anything wrong
> with the drywall (i.e. the paper is still good, it's not crumbling)
> except for the water stain which wasn't painted over.
No, just get some good stain blocker and spray or brush some on - a couple
light coats are better than one thick one.
ajay
>
Nothing that wasn't already covered in an earlier reply (3 hours ago) by
another poster in the thread..
xym...@spam.nicht.rochester.rr.com
I think you are overlooking the fact that people have different
newsfeeds and may receive articles in a different order than you do.
In fact, some people may never receive certain articles, depending on
the news server.
jeffc
"One Eyed Jack" <Jackof...@fuckmerunnin.com> wrote in message
news:js2m4v4cbhd8h23sn...@4ax.com...
>
> Generally, you put oil based
> >stain blockers over water-soluble stains, and water based stain blockers
> >over oil-soluble stains.
>
> Where did that come from?
Common knowledge of the chemistry involved. If you paint with water based
paint over a water soluble stain, then the paint acts as a solvent for the
stain, and you are likely to get bleed through. Ever hear the saying water
and oil don't mix? For example, for stains on drywall due to water damage,
generally an oil based stain blocker will work best. There are some
products that are exceptions. Kilz Premium does a pretty good job even as a
water based stain blocker. But in general, oil based stain blockers won't
allow water based stains to bleed through, and likewise water based stain
blockers won't allow so-called "solvent based" stains to bleed through. The
solvents for the stains and primers are different.
> While it's likely the original poster has no drywall damage to be
> concerned about.
> The notion that a water based vs, shellac based over one or the other,
> is absurd.
Actually, it's correct in general. Do your homework. As paint technology
evolves and water based products become more popular, they are coming out
with more water based products that are improving at blocking water based
stains.
jeffc
"jeffc" <f...@chance.com> wrote in message
news:2tG2a.12877$ji.11...@twister.southeast.rr.com...
>
> Actually, it's correct in general. Do your homework.
Since you are too lazy:
http://www.albany.ie/faq1.htm
http://lexingtonpaint.com/howto/ceilings.htm
http://www.thepaintconsultants.com/prod01.htm
etc etc
jeffc
>
> Listen close dork, the "oil" based products you've been spittin
> about are a mix of acetone, alkyd, alcohol, tolune etc..
> Why the fuck do you think it'll dry in 1/2 hour?
Red herring - just a diversion to hide the fact that you didn't know a
simple fact.
> I've got thirty years in related trades. Don't tell me to "do my
> homework".
Fine. You're one of those dogmatic clods that's still doing things the way
they were done 50 years ago. Technology has changed a bit bud, but hey
don't take time out from your busy day to learn anything new. Keep on
keepin' on pal....
ajay
>
Nothing that wasn't already covered in an earlier reply (3 hours ago) by
another poster in the thread..
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