Exterior Painting

[Dana Dawes]

Chip

Scrape off the failing latex; treat with a paintable water-repellant wood
preservative; prime with an oil-based primer; and finish with 100% acrylic
latex.

Dana
Paintcraft

[Dana Dawes]

You bet

Dana

Chip <chip...@REMOVE.TO.REPLYatt.net> wrote in message
news:391CAC69...@REMOVE.TO.REPLYatt.net...
> Dana..
>
> Can I paint the non-failing latex with the 100% acrylic latex without any
> other prep?

> --
> Chip..
>
> To Reply remove the REMOVE.TO.REPLY from my e-mail address.
> x-no-archive: yes
>
>

[Chip]

[Daniel Hicks]

Wwll, it does need to be washed well first.

Dana Dawes wrote:
>
> You bet
>
> Dana
>
> Chip <chip...@REMOVE.TO.REPLYatt.net> wrote in message
> news:391CAC69...@REMOVE.TO.REPLYatt.net...

[Chip]

Dana..

Just a few follow up questions:

Can you suggest a good paintable water-repellent wood preservative? I'll
probably be looking at Home Depot for all my painting supplies.

Also, why an oil-based primer instead of a latex primer? I live in a very dry
area and I've been reading that oil-based paints tend to dry out.

[Daniel Hicks]

With proper paint you shouldn't need a water repellent, and no wood
preservative you just paint on is going to last very long.

An oil or alkyd primer soaks into the wood. Water based primers tend to
just sit on the surface. You'll get much better paint adhesion with a
good alkyd primer such as Moorewhite. Good quality acrylic latex paint
generally bonds very well to alkyd primer, giving you a long-lasting
paint job.

[Paul Broussard]

I really prefer using thinned Penetrol, which is more of an oil than a
sealer. The benefit of soaking the raw wood in the weather with this
solution is that the oil will soak deep into the wood fibers, sealing
them while giving the primer an excellent base. We use this technique
often on old double hung windows that constantly beaten by the weather.
Wood fibers have started to deteriorate, the oil will rejuvenate them to
a certain extent.

For other areas that get somewhat less harsh conditions, this also may
be achieved by adding Penetrol to a good long oil exterior primer.
MoorWhite ext. primer is an excellent long oil primer that really
benefits from a healthy dose of Penetrol. It comes rather thick, and the
Penetrol will condition the paint, while adding more oil to the already
healthy amounts in MoorWhite (hence the name long oil primer).

Long oil primers stay flexible far longer than stain blocking primers or
underbodies. This is important to withstand expansion and contraction
due to temp and humidity changes. Acrylic primers are great, remain
flexible, but don't have the penetrating properties of a good long oil
primer.

Daniel Hicks wrote:
>
> With proper paint you shouldn't need a water repellent, and no wood
> preservative you just paint on is going to last very long.
>
> An oil or alkyd primer soaks into the wood. Water based primers tend to
> just sit on the surface. You'll get much better paint adhesion with a
> good alkyd primer such as Moorewhite. Good quality acrylic latex paint
> generally bonds very well to alkyd primer, giving you a long-lasting
> paint job.

--
Broussard Paint Contractors, friend of Bill's
"reality.exe corrupted. reset universe? (Y)es (N)o"
family pics from Paul & Laurie-
http://members.home.net/pbroussard/index.html

[TinMan1332]

>I really prefer using thinned Penetrol, which is more of an oil than a
>sealer. The benefit of soaking the raw wood in the weather with this
>solution is that the oil will soak deep into the wood fibers, sealing
>them while giving the primer an excellent base. We use this technique
>often on old double hung windows that constantly beaten by the weather.
>Wood fibers have started to deteriorate, the oil will rejuvenate them to
>a certain extent.
>
>For other areas that get somewhat less harsh conditions, this also may
>be achieved by adding Penetrol to a good long oil exterior primer.
>MoorWhite ext. primer is an excellent long oil primer that really
>benefits from a healthy dose of Penetrol. It comes rather thick, and the
>Penetrol will condition the paint, while adding more oil to the already
>healthy amounts in MoorWhite (hence the name long oil primer).
>
>Long oil primers stay flexible far longer than stain blocking primers or
>underbodies. This is important to withstand expansion and contraction
>due to temp and humidity changes. Acrylic primers are great, remain
>flexible, but don't have the penetrating properties of a good long oil
>primer.

The advice of using Penetrol in the above mentioned way is excellent. Penetrol
publishes a small pamphlet that gives many inovative uses of the product.

I have no interest in Flood other than using their products.

[davefrN...@myremarq.com.invalid]

Why??? If you want professional quality results you need
professional quality products. You won't find them at Home
Depot. Home Depot's objective is to hit low consumer price
points and quality gets sacrificed in order to achieve this.

Do your paint supply shopping at a real paint store. Material
unit pricing may be higher but you'll end up with better value
as measured by labor savings, overall material savings, longer
coating life, etc. (the advice is also much better at a real
paint store)

I don't understand why HD doesn't try and bring on at least one
line of "top shelf" paints.

>I'll
>probably be looking at Home Depot for all my painting supplies.
>

-----------------------------------------------------------

Got questions? Get answers over the phone at Keen.com.
Up to 100 minutes free!
http://www.keen.com

[NOSPAMBOB]

When I asked at HD about buying Pumice the young kid had no idea what I was
asking for and asked an old timer that responded "Go to a REAL paint store".

In article <0dd88614...@usw-ex0104-028.remarq.com>, dav...@myremarq.com
<davefrN...@myremarq.com.invalid> writes:

>I don't understand why HD doesn't try and bring on at least one
>line of "top shelf" paints.
>
>>I'll
>>probably be looking at Home Depot for all my painting supplies.
>>

Name works for E-mail