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Hmmmm I wonder why the ends of drywall aren't tapered also?
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Steve Barker
May 10, 2012, 12:53:07 AM5/10/12
to
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
Mike Paulsen
May 10, 2012, 1:31:17 AM5/10/12
to
Steve Barker wrote:
>
Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous
sheet that's chopped to length.
That's not to say it isn't being done. Lafarge has been making 4 tapered
edge drywall for at least 5 years. I don't know if it's widely available
in the US, though. Google Lafarge Synia
>
Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous
sheet that's chopped to length.
That's not to say it isn't being done. Lafarge has been making 4 tapered
edge drywall for at least 5 years. I don't know if it's widely available
in the US, though. Google Lafarge Synia
tange...@toyotamail.com
May 10, 2012, 3:36:14 AM5/10/12
to
On Thu, 10 May 2012 00:31:17 -0500, Mike Paulsen <mpau...@crummy.org>
tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?
And just think of those huge ceilings in warehouses. If the warehouse
ceiling is 40 ft. X 180 ft. I'd only need 10 sheets of 180 ft long
drywall.
Then again, why not just have a portable drywall making machine that you
bring on the job and custom make the drywall sheets to just fit the
room. One sheet for each wall, and another one for the ceiling. All
one piece sheets. That would eliminate all that nasty taping joints.
Just mud the 4 corners and around the ceiling edges.
Better yet, how about liquid drywall, or rolls of dehydrated drywall,
where you just unroll what looks like paper, apply it to the wall
framing with two sided tape, and spray it with water. The water makes
the paper thicken to 1/2". Then allow it to dry for an hour, and the
whole room is finished.
Actually there may come a time when drywall comes in bags. You'll cover
the wall with wooden laths, then you'll mix the bags of drywall powder
with water in an electric mixer, and then you will apply the drywall
with a trowel. That would be a huge advancement in technology!!!
Just think, no taping joints!
wrote:
>Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous
>sheet that's chopped to length.
You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
>Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous
>sheet that's chopped to length.
tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?
And just think of those huge ceilings in warehouses. If the warehouse
ceiling is 40 ft. X 180 ft. I'd only need 10 sheets of 180 ft long
drywall.
Then again, why not just have a portable drywall making machine that you
bring on the job and custom make the drywall sheets to just fit the
room. One sheet for each wall, and another one for the ceiling. All
one piece sheets. That would eliminate all that nasty taping joints.
Just mud the 4 corners and around the ceiling edges.
Better yet, how about liquid drywall, or rolls of dehydrated drywall,
where you just unroll what looks like paper, apply it to the wall
framing with two sided tape, and spray it with water. The water makes
the paper thicken to 1/2". Then allow it to dry for an hour, and the
whole room is finished.
Actually there may come a time when drywall comes in bags. You'll cover
the wall with wooden laths, then you'll mix the bags of drywall powder
with water in an electric mixer, and then you will apply the drywall
with a trowel. That would be a huge advancement in technology!!!
Just think, no taping joints!
Sonny
May 10, 2012, 7:11:16 AM5/10/12
to
> Then again, why not just have a portable drywall making machine that you
> bring on the job and custom make the drywall sheets to just fit the
> room. One sheet for each wall, and another one for the ceiling. All
> bring on the job and custom make the drywall sheets to just fit the
> room. One sheet for each wall, and another one for the ceiling. All
> Actually there may come a time when drywall comes in bags. You'll cover
> the wall with wooden laths, then you'll mix the bags of drywall powder
> with water in an electric mixer, and then you will apply the drywall
> with a trowel.
>That would be a huge advancement in technology!!!
> Just think, no taping joints!
But not an advancement in common sense and economics. That technique
> the wall with wooden laths, then you'll mix the bags of drywall powder
> with water in an electric mixer, and then you will apply the drywall
> with a trowel.
>That would be a huge advancement in technology!!!
> Just think, no taping joints!
is similar to applying stucco.
As for as the other applications, you would still need to mud the
screws, use larger than normal sheet lifts and/or get extra tall
stilts for those 100' walls and high ceilings.
Jim Elbrecht
May 10, 2012, 7:50:24 AM5/10/12
to
Because then they couldn't sell you the tool that tapers the ends.<g>
you can buy tapered ends-- just not at your local borg. [Though they
might be able to order it for you--- Might be fun to ask for some one
day]
Just don't do any rooms longer than 14 [16?] feet and you don't need
to worry about it.
Jim
you can buy tapered ends-- just not at your local borg. [Though they
might be able to order it for you--- Might be fun to ask for some one
day]
Just don't do any rooms longer than 14 [16?] feet and you don't need
to worry about it.
Jim
Dan Espen
May 10, 2012, 9:29:45 AM5/10/12
to
tange...@toyotamail.com writes:
> On Thu, 10 May 2012 00:31:17 -0500, Mike Paulsen <mpau...@crummy.org>
> wrote:
>
>>Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous
>>sheet that's chopped to length.
>
> You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
> tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?
Mike's right.
> On Thu, 10 May 2012 00:31:17 -0500, Mike Paulsen <mpau...@crummy.org>
> wrote:
>
>>Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous
>>sheet that's chopped to length.
>
> You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
> tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?
Didn't you guys see the "How's it Made" episode for drywall manufacture?
Yes they could make drywall any length you want, but the logistics of
getting it out of the building and on to the truck would be a real
problem.
--
Dan Espen
WW
May 10, 2012, 9:34:52 AM5/10/12
to
<tange...@toyotamail.com> wrote in message
news:3hqmq7tvj85u3pq19...@4ax.com...
PLASTER. ww
>
>
Harry K
May 10, 2012, 9:35:39 AM5/10/12
to
where you can't make the butt jonts fall above doors or above/below
windows leving only a few feet of butt joint taping...also in spots
where bad taping won't show much.
Harry K
dpb
May 10, 2012, 9:40:07 AM5/10/12
to
On 5/10/2012 8:34 AM, WW wrote:
...
> Where have you been? Thats the way it used to be done. It was called
> PLASTER. ww
...
whoosh...
--
...
> Where have you been? Thats the way it used to be done. It was called
> PLASTER. ww
whoosh...
--
Robert Macy
May 10, 2012, 10:00:46 AM5/10/12
to
On May 10, 12:36 am, tangeri...@toyotamail.com wrote:
>...snip...
Where homes have 10 and 12 foot ceilings the drywall is PARALLEL.
For a 10 ft ceiling the 2 ft wide strip in the midlle just catches
light switches, etc.
>
> Actually there may come a time when drywall comes in bags. You'll cover
> the wall with wooden laths, then you'll mix the bags of drywall powder
> with water in an electric mixer, and then you will apply the drywall
> with a trowel. That would be a huge advancement in technology!!!
> Just think, no taping joints!
LOL!
>...snip...
> You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
> tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?
>
>...snip...
> tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?
>
Where homes have 10 and 12 foot ceilings the drywall is PARALLEL.
For a 10 ft ceiling the 2 ft wide strip in the midlle just catches
light switches, etc.
>
> Actually there may come a time when drywall comes in bags. You'll cover
> the wall with wooden laths, then you'll mix the bags of drywall powder
> with water in an electric mixer, and then you will apply the drywall
> with a trowel. That would be a huge advancement in technology!!!
> Just think, no taping joints!
Steve Barker
May 10, 2012, 11:01:36 AM5/10/12
to
tange...@toyotamail.com
May 10, 2012, 1:40:37 PM5/10/12
to
On Thu, 10 May 2012 07:50:24 -0400, Jim Elbrecht <elbr...@email.com>
wrote:
Maybe you could ask them to sell the tapered ends separately. That way
you put up a sheet of regular drywall and place the tapered ends
wherever you want them.
wrote:
you put up a sheet of regular drywall and place the tapered ends
wherever you want them.
DerbyDad03
May 10, 2012, 2:13:43 PM5/10/12
to
width so that only full sheets are used, with tapered ends landing
precisely in the corners?
What are the odds that *most* rooms you do will be the precise length
or width so that only full sheets are used, with tapered ends landing
precisely in the corners?
Seems to me that there would be a lot of tapered ends cut off and
thrown away.
A better solution would be to sell spare tapered ends that could be
butted to the flat ends of a sheet. All you would have to do is mud
the joint between the tapered end and the...oh wait...never mind. ;-)
Ed Pawlowski
May 10, 2012, 5:27:28 PM5/10/12
to
DerbyDad03
May 10, 2012, 6:02:35 PM5/10/12
to
On May 10, 5:27 pm, Ed Pawlowski <e...@snet.net> wrote:
> On Thu, 10 May 2012 12:40:37 -0500, tangeri...@toyotamail.com wrote:
> >On Thu, 10 May 2012 07:50:24 -0400, Jim Elbrecht <elbre...@email.com>
rights and a left - so we'll have to buy extra sets.
> On Thu, 10 May 2012 12:40:37 -0500, tangeri...@toyotamail.com wrote:
> >On Thu, 10 May 2012 07:50:24 -0400, Jim Elbrecht <elbre...@email.com>
> >wrote:
>
> >>Because then they couldn't sell you the tool that tapers the ends.<g>
>
> >>you can buy tapered ends-- just not at your local borg. [Though they
> >>might be able to order it for you--- Might be fun to ask for some one
> >>day]
>
> >>Just don't do any rooms longer than 14 [16?] feet and you don't need
> >>to worry about it.
>
> >>Jim
>
> >Maybe you could ask them to sell the tapered ends separately. That way
> >you put up a sheet of regular drywall and place the tapered ends
> >wherever you want them.
>
> Do you have to get equal quantities of left and right ends?
Some marketing genius will probably package them in sets of three - 2
>
> >>Because then they couldn't sell you the tool that tapers the ends.<g>
>
> >>you can buy tapered ends-- just not at your local borg. [Though they
> >>might be able to order it for you--- Might be fun to ask for some one
> >>day]
>
> >>Just don't do any rooms longer than 14 [16?] feet and you don't need
> >>to worry about it.
>
> >>Jim
>
> >Maybe you could ask them to sell the tapered ends separately. That way
> >you put up a sheet of regular drywall and place the tapered ends
> >wherever you want them.
>
> Do you have to get equal quantities of left and right ends?
rights and a left - so we'll have to buy extra sets.
tange...@toyotamail.com
May 10, 2012, 8:22:27 PM5/10/12
to
k...@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz
May 10, 2012, 10:35:31 PM5/10/12
to
Harry K
May 10, 2012, 11:28:59 PM5/10/12
to
On May 10, 7:00 am, Robert Macy <robert.a.m...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On May 10, 12:36 am, tangeri...@toyotamail.com wrote:
>
> >...snip...
> > You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
> > tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?
>
> >...snip...
>
> Where homes have 10 and 12 foot ceilings the drywall is PARALLEL.
>
> For a 10 ft ceiling the 2 ft wide strip in the midlle just catches
> light switches, etc.
>
>
Also 8' walls. Putting it up vertically causes problems taping and
> On May 10, 12:36 am, tangeri...@toyotamail.com wrote:
>
> >...snip...
> > You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
> > tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?
>
> >...snip...
>
> Where homes have 10 and 12 foot ceilings the drywall is PARALLEL.
>
> For a 10 ft ceiling the 2 ft wide strip in the midlle just catches
> light switches, etc.
>
>
increases the total footage of joints.
10' and 12' sheetrock is also standard and usually in stock at
thelocal lumberyard.
<snip>
Jesus Mommywas13
May 11, 2012, 10:40:57 PM5/11/12
to
On May 10, 3:36 am, tangeri...@toyotamail.com wrote:
> On Thu, 10 May 2012 00:31:17 -0500, Mike Paulsen <mpaul...@crummy.org>
...and you can add horse hair to make it stronger
> On Thu, 10 May 2012 00:31:17 -0500, Mike Paulsen <mpaul...@crummy.org>
micky
May 14, 2012, 12:55:13 AM5/14/12
to
On Thu, 10 May 2012 02:36:14 -0500, tange...@toyotamail.com wrote:
>On Thu, 10 May 2012 00:31:17 -0500, Mike Paulsen <mpau...@crummy.org>
>wrote:
>
>>Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous
>>sheet that's chopped to length.
>
>You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
>tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?
Sheetrock in a castle is so tacky.
>On Thu, 10 May 2012 00:31:17 -0500, Mike Paulsen <mpau...@crummy.org>
>wrote:
>
>>Mostly because of how drywall is traditionally produced -- a continuous
>>sheet that's chopped to length.
>
>You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
>tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?
>And just think of those huge ceilings in warehouses. If the warehouse
>ceiling is 40 ft. X 180 ft. I'd only need 10 sheets of 180 ft long
>drywall.
>
>Then again, why not just have a portable drywall making machine that you
>bring on the job and custom make the drywall sheets to just fit the
>room. One sheet for each wall, and another one for the ceiling. All
>one piece sheets. That would eliminate all that nasty taping joints.
>Just mud the 4 corners and around the ceiling edges.
>
>Better yet, how about liquid drywall, or rolls of dehydrated drywall,
>where you just unroll what looks like paper, apply it to the wall
>framing with two sided tape, and spray it with water. The water makes
>the paper thicken to 1/2". Then allow it to dry for an hour, and the
>whole room is finished.
publicize it.
>Actually there may come a time when drywall comes in bags. You'll cover
>the wall with wooden laths, then you'll mix the bags of drywall powder
>with water in an electric mixer, and then you will apply the drywall
>with a trowel. That would be a huge advancement in technology!!!
>Just think, no taping joints!
>
tange...@toyotamail.com
May 14, 2012, 2:30:45 AM5/14/12
to
On Mon, 14 May 2012 00:55:13 -0400, micky <NONONO...@bigfoot.com>
wrote:
>>You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
>>tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?
>
>Sheetrock in a castle is so tacky.
Yea, they really should use panelling !!!
wrote:
>>You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
>>tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?
>
>Sheetrock in a castle is so tacky.
DerbyDad03
May 14, 2012, 4:00:52 AM5/14/12
to
On May 14, 2:30 am, tangeri...@toyotamail.com wrote:
> On Mon, 14 May 2012 00:55:13 -0400, micky <NONONOmis...@bigfoot.com>
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gauiscaecilius/1138805/
> On Mon, 14 May 2012 00:55:13 -0400, micky <NONONOmis...@bigfoot.com>
> wrote:
>
> >>You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
> >>tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?
>
> >Sheetrock in a castle is so tacky.
>
> Yea, they really should use panelling !!!
Actually, all castles should have curtain walls.
>
> >>You mean that if I built a castle with 100 foot tall walls, I could just
> >>tell the company to cut the continuous sheet at 100 foot intervals?
>
> >Sheetrock in a castle is so tacky.
>
> Yea, they really should use panelling !!!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gauiscaecilius/1138805/
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