oil paint brush cleaning question

[RichG]

My results attempting to clean brushes have always been terrible. That's why
I have taken to buying junk brushes, using them once and throwing them away.
Wasteful and expensive. Cheap brushes also paint like crap.

How do you smart guys/gals and professionals really clean your brushes. I've
been using paint thinner and then soap and water. My results need help!
--
regards, RichG
rich...@yahoo.com

.

[Johns]

I used to do a lot of painting and always used a brush/roller spinner
that helps extract the thinner/water from the brush between steps.
Brush cleaner also cleans paint out better than thinners especially if
it's partially dried. A brush comb can be useful too.
These are extra expenses and may not be worth it depending on your
needs. Also, I found that dishsoap (Dawn) is the best for the final
stage of srtipping residues from the bristles.
In good condition a quality brush is SOOO much nicer than a cheapie
that it's worth keeping them up.

John

On Wed, 28 Feb 2001 17:41:54 GMT, "RichG" <rgr...@houston.rr.com>
wrote:

[Engineering]

I used to do the same thing until I found that an expensive brush not only
works a whole lot better, but with the right cleaning method, it stays quite
usable.

First, I use only Purdy or Linzer brushes, although there's probably some
others like the Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore brushes that are just as
good. Use only natural bristle brushes for oil base paints and varnishes
and polyester/nylon bristled brushes for water based paints or finishes. I
assume you're talking only about oil based finishes, so here's the drill.

Get yourself three quart mason jars, a wire coat hanger, a gallon of mineral
spirits or brush cleaner, a STAINLESS STEEL wire brush, some dish soap, and
don't be afraid to get your hands dirty. First, get as much of the finish
off the brush as you can by wiping it on a piece of scrap (I use my shop
wall - it's got some interesting colors). Pour about pint of solvent into
each mason jar. Rinse the brush thoroughly in the first jar until you think
you've gotten most of the finish out of the brush. Then do the same in the
second and third jar. Cap the jars and save the contents; you can decant
the solvent after the solids settle and reuse them. Then get a dish pan and
some cool (not hot, it sets the finish) water, and use the wire brush and
dish soap to thoroughly clean the solvent and whatever small amount of
remaining finish is in the brush. Once you're done washing, rinse the brush
under cool running water and splay the bristles with your hand until the
brush is clear of sopay water. Hang it on a hook made from the coat hanger
until dry. It may be crusty when dry, but if it's cleaned well, the
bristles will loosen as soon as you bend them. Wrap the brush bristles in a
dry paper towel and store until next use.

Caveats: Don't use a regular wire brush. It will rust and leave the rust
in your brush. DAMHIKT.
The solids inthe solvent will take a few days to settle. Be patient. If
you need to rinse brushes frequently, consider using larger containers, more
containers, or decanting often.

If this fails, I don't know what you're doing wrong. I've never had to toss
a brush since using this method, and at $10-$20 a pop, I don't want to.
--
Jon Endres, P.E.
West Mountain Engineering Co.
w...@sover.net

RichG <rgr...@houston.rr.com> wrote in message
news:CLan6.941$g8.4...@typhoon.austin.rr.com...

[davefr]

Here are some important tips:

1. Use only the best quality paint brushes like Purdy or Wooster.
2. Charge the brush before you begin painting by soaking it in the appropriate
thinner and than spin drying it.
3. Double or triple clean with paint thinner. Squish it up and down vigorously
and keep pumping thinner thru the bristles.
4. After you think the brush is clean, give it a final rinse in clean laquer
thinner and finally massage in a few drops of mineral oil.
5. Store the brush in it's protective case.

In article <CLan6.941$g8.4...@typhoon.austin.rr.com>, RichG says...

[Dan Hicks]

First off, if you're going be back tomorrow for more painting you can
simply wrap the brush in plastic or foil and put it in the
refrigerator. The next day give it a quick rinse in the appropriate
solvent to get out the bulk of the old paint, then continue where you
left off.

When painting with oil paints I save all the old thinner (ya gotta do
something with it anyway) in empty thinner jugs and let it sit. Later,
I decant it into clean(er) jugs, leaving the scum on the bottom of the
first jug. I use this decanted thinner for the first rinse, then do a
second rinse (and maybe a third) with clean thinner. At this point you
can wrap the brush in foil and have it keep fine for several days, or
you can wash it in dish detergent to get it really clean for longer term
storage.

If you do both paint and varnish, keep separate brushes for the two, and
don't use the decanted used paint thinner to rinse varnish brushes
(though decanted used varnish thinner is OK for both varnish and paint
brushes). Any paint that gets into the varnish brush will cause specks
in the varnish job.

[Michael Baugh]

I often use polyurethane on foam brushes. No bristle stroke marks. I left
one of them in a baggie a week ago, in the freezer, and it's still soft and
ready to use again. Same goes for oil paint. I never cleaned them till I was
finished with the painting.

Dan Hicks <danh...@ieee.org> wrote in message
news:3A9DAE8C...@ieee.org...

[Bob]

The decanting idea is definately a winner. Dramatically reduces thinner
purchases. For cleaning, I use a piece of newspaper. Fold it around the
brush and squeeze as much paint out as possible. Repeat. Then, I put a small
amount of thinner in a jar, and squish the brush around in it until the
liquid color does not change. Dump the the result into the 'settling' jug,
add another small amount of (decanted) thinner and repeat the process until
the thinner remains clear. Do one final cleaning in clean thinner, and shake
the brush dry. A few weeks later, the settling jug may be decanted into
another for re-use.

Bob

"Dan Hicks" <danh...@ieee.org> wrote in message
news:3A9DAE8C...@ieee.org...

[NOSPAMBOB]

Two thoughts. BUY GOOD BRUSHES! Preload with thinner for two reasons. Stops
paint near the ferrule drying and making the brush stiff. Makes cleaning MUCH
easier. All else equal buy brushes with round dowel like handles as that makes
cleaning more effective. Hold the bristles against the side of the container
to squeeze out excess thinner. Dip bristles into paint about half way and
brush "accross the grain" to spread paint. Then brush "with the grain" to
smooth and level. Keep a wet edge. To clean several applications of thinner
will be needed, it's cheaper than good brushes. Dip bristles up to the ferrule
and rotate the ends of the bristles in a circular manner against the palm of
your hand so thinner gets up to the ferrule. Repeat several times until the
thinner has only a trace of the color of the paint. Use liquid soap/water in
the same way to wash out thinner several times. Hold the round handle between
your palms and spin the brush to expell soapy water and rinse several times
until it's clean. Good brushes last a LONG time. Some of the few I have are
40 years old and in better shape than I. Some advocate wrapping the brush in
brown grocery bags between uses. To belabor painting the smoothest job I've
ever been able to achieve was rolling oil enamel on a pocket door in a kitchen
then levelling it with a 3" bristle brush with the grain and gentle strokes
with brush almost vertical.

In article <CLan6.941$g8.4...@typhoon.austin.rr.com>, "RichG"

<rgr...@houston.rr.com> writes:

>How do you smart guys/gals and professionals really clean your brushes. I've
>been using paint thinner and then soap and water. My results need help!
>--

Name works for E-mail

[RamblinOn]

Dan Hicks wrote:

This is pretty much how I clean brushes. After final rinse, I squeeze out as much
mineral spirits as possible, clean with full strength Dawn, and rinse very
thoroughly.

For keeping a brush from drying out during the paint job, I use a coffee can for
mineral spirits. Cut an "X" in the plastic lid, put the handle through the "X"
and it will be suspended in the min spirits but not standing on the bristles or in
the "goop" at the bottom of the container. You can "recycle" mineral spirits and
paint remover often several times for the dirtiest part of the job. Just be sure
to use a clean batch for the final clean up.

--
"Life can only be understood backwards, but it must be lived forwards."
Kierkegaard

[NOSPAMBOB]

If you have a brush that is stiff because of inadequate cleanup get some
Citristrip remover and soak the bristles in that overnight, or longer. DON'T
use one of the strong strippers.

Name works for E-mail