Any tips on this? Any web sites? How should your fill in the cracks?
Spackling?
Thanks,
Bill
(original post 1-98, version 2.1.21.00) :)
Painting paneling is pretty easy most of the time, and is a great way
to brighten up a room with minimal effort. For most people, the lines are
not objectionable. I have several rooms in my house with painted paneling.
This subject comes up pretty often, a search in DejaNews came up with
about 700 references to "painting paneling". The usual reply from the
average home owner is something to the effect "Yes, I painted my paneling,
I bought a couple of gallons of 'XX' paint, put two coats on and it looks
great!". But for me to guarantee a job such as this, it would have to pass
the standard "scratch test". This involves letting the paint cure for a
few days or a week, (sometimes more) then trying to scratch the paint off
with my finger nail. A well bonded coating should stay adhered to the
substrate even when scratched fairly hard.
This test is where all latex topcoats (acrylic included) I've ever
used over factory finished paneling failed. It's important for a quality
job that will last to use a primer suited for this purpose. Many people
say that they've used Kilz for this application, I wouldn't, for Kilz is
designed to be a quick dry stain block primer, not a primer to stick to
old finishes or for that matter exterior work that is directly in the
weather. It's also extremely smelly.
When painting factory finished paneling, more than likely,
cleaning, priming with a good acrylic primer (Zinnser's 123 comes to
mind) designed to stick to glossy surfaces will produce great results.
Here's some additional steps we sometimes use to ensure the maximum
adhesion to old paneling. Not all steps need to be taken in all
situations, unless you are willing to go the extra mile in ensuring the
best adhesion. It is quite a bit of work, which may or may not be
necessary.
1. Make sure the surface is clean. Don't skip this step, it's the
most important. You'll more than likely be cleaning hand grime off. Use
TSP according to directions, and let dry a day or so. We usually mix TSP
double the recommended amount. Do so at your own risk. If TSP loosens the
finish when washing the paneling, then the finish is "dead" (old and dried
up) and should be removed as whatever you apply on top of it will not
adhere to a substrate in poor condition.
2. Sand the old finish. Most people think sanding is for making the
old finish slick. That's just a side benefit from the real task, to cut
fine scratches in the surface of the old finish for a good mechanical bond
of the primer. Use 120-180 garnet paper. Dust down the entire area before
proceeding.
3. Caulk all cracks and putty all nail holes, let dry before
proceeding. Once again, once the paneling has been painted, the lines
aren't objectionable for most people. But most people are looking for a
quick fix to a dull, dark wall. Painting achieves this. If you want a
smooth wall, install 1/4" drywall on top of the paneling, or use a heavy
backed wallpaper designed to give you a fresh surface for the wall. Good
for paneling and old, damaged stucco walls. Some are smooth, and some have
a texture.
4. Immediately before applying your primer, wash an area that you can
paint in 20-30 minutes with a good deglosser. We use NoSand, pretty
potent stuff. Use with adequate ventilation, perhaps use a respirator.
NoSand is a mix of various solvents that will degloss the surface and
soften it so the primer will adhere better.
5. Apply your primer. The best we've used is an alkyd enamel
underbody. An acrylic primer designed to stick to glossy surfaces such as
Zinnser's 123, ICI's Gripper or BM's Fresh Start may or may not work in
this situation, usually does well. Best to experiment with the scratch
test.
6. Apply your topcoat. A satin finish oil paint such as Benjamin
Moore's Satin Impervo is extremely durable for kids. We use it when
customers express their concerns about durability. An acrylic eggshell is
fine for most
people.
7. Enjoy!
Remember, in most cases, all of these steps need not be taken, only
if you're having trouble getting the primer to adhere. Generally washing
and priming is all that's required
--
Broussard Paint Contractors, friend of Bill's
"careful, we might learn from this"- Calvin
family pics from Paul & Laurie-
http://members.home.net/pbroussard/index.html
Results were great. Very durable, bright and modern looking. The vertical
lines look good too - they add texture to the wall.
PS: the paneling I painted was better quality real wood stuff.
I filled gaps with latex caulking - worked fine.
"Bill Bartnick" <bbar...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3888c9e0...@news.mindspring.com...
> I have this ugly paneling on one wall of my apartment. I'd like to
> rip it down, but I'm assuming the wall behind it is a disaster. I
> think I read somewhere that you can paint paneling.
>
> Any tips on this? Any web sites? How should your fill in the cracks?
> Spackling?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill
I've also put putty in the joints then wallpapered (after applying sizing)
to the panelling.
In article <3888E98E...@home.com>, Paul Broussard
<pbrou...@home.com> wrote:
> Bill Bartnick wrote:
>
> > I have this ugly paneling on one wall of my apartment. I'd like to
> > rip it down, but I'm assuming the wall behind it is a disaster. I
> > think I read somewhere that you can paint paneling.
> >
> > Any tips on this? Any web sites? How should your fill in the cracks?
> > Spackling?
>
On Fri, 21 Jan 2000 21:06:01 GMT, bbar...@hotmail.com (Bill
Bartnick) wrote:
>I have this ugly paneling on one wall of my apartment. I'd like to
>rip it down, but I'm assuming the wall behind it is a disaster. I
>think I read somewhere that you can paint paneling.
>
>Any tips on this? Any web sites? How should your fill in the cracks?
>Spackling?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bill