Painting and the evil Blue Tape
Matt
painted wall I have issues? I painted my ceiling, then taped it off to
paint the wall. When finished, I start to remove the tape and up comes
my fresh paint with the tape. I waited 24 hours. I also tried running
a razor blade in the corner to help free up the tape. Whats the trick?
Matt
Cheri
Matt wrote in message
<1178738274.3...@n59g2000hsh.googlegroups.com>...
Boy, I'd like an answer to that one myself. It's usually a nightmare.
Cheri
Matt
> Matt wrote in message
>
> <1178738274.383123.176...@n59g2000hsh.googlegroups.com>...
I ditched the tape and picked up a good quality brush and just free
handed the job. But, I am going to be panting a cieling 17ft high,
tape would be preferred.
Matt
Levitation29
I suppose what it means is that the
adhesion of new paint to old paint is less
than adhesion of the tape used to the new paint.
how did you prep the old paint before you
painted the ceiling?
But probably there a number of other more important issues.
There are a couple of blue tapes. Which did
you use?
You should be using "Scotch-Blue Painter's Tape
for Delicate Surfaces". It has an orange
and blue core. The other kind is
"Scotch-Blue Painter's Tape for Multi-Surfaces"
You can only use the Multi-Surface tape on
paint 30 days old.
for details on which tape to use for which surfaces
Other notes:
3m says to wait 24 hours for new paint to dry
before you put blue tape on it. overnite
isn't enough.
removal tips from the 3m web site
"Speed of Removal
A moderate speed is best for removing tape.
An excessive rate of removal may cause
tearing or damage of the surface, while a slow
rate of removal may transfer adhesive.
Angle of Removal
Remove tape at a 45-degree angle, pulling
the tape back on itself. If the adhesive
begins to transfer, remove at a
90 degree angle
Oren
>I ditched the tape and picked up a good quality brush and just free
>handed the job. But, I am going to be panting a cieling 17ft high,
>tape would be preferred.
(Check you any insurance policy you might have) Long time on a ladder,
imo.
I have 10ft ceiling and recently around 14ft ceilings. Never saw or
used tape. Free hand!
--
Oren
..through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..
Edwin Pawlowski
"Matt" <ndtn...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1178738274.3...@n59g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
The trick is to not use tape.
Paint the ceiling first as you did. Then you get a good brush and "cut in"
the wall. You load the brush with paint, then place it on the wall just
below the ceiling. Now that your hand is steady, draw the brush up and
across the seam and back down to end the stroke. It will be 99% perfect
and that 1% you won't see from ground level.
dadiOH
Let the paint dry first. Not "finger dry", DRY! A week or more.
Better (as you discovered) just to skip the tape.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Pop`
> Matt wrote:
>> So why is it every time I try to use the blue tape on top of a
>> freshly painted wall I have issues? I painted my ceiling, then
>> taped it off to paint the wall. When finished, I start to remove
>> the tape and up comes my fresh paint with the tape. I waited 24
>> hours. I also tried running a razor blade in the corner to help
>> free up the tape. Whats the trick?
>
> Let the paint dry first. Not "finger dry", DRY! A week or more.
>
> Better (as you discovered) just to skip the tape.
Yeah, right! Then deal with getting the dried adhesive off the wall.
Pop`
Two things mostly:
-- Make sure it's intended for painting use. I use the one that's safe to
remove for up to two days. I think there is a 3 day too, and I know there is
a 1 day. After those times you may have adhesive leftovers to contend with.
The day's life is printed right on the rolls packages and inside the cores
IME.
-- When you take the tape off, do NOT just pull it! Pull it back and over
itself as far as you can and pull it along its own path that way. There is
no lifting of the paint that way. Never pull the tape at near right angles
to the wall. I lift a small bit, grab it between my thumb and forefinger,
and just drag it along as close to the wall as I can keep it, which, if done
properly, can be actually touching the tape under it. I don't know how else
to explain it <g>.
_____ ===> pulling the tape
/--------------------------------------- tape
wall
Experiment a little; it's easy to pick up the knack. If that pulls the
paint off, you have paint adhesion problems and should stop and rethink why
the paint isn't adhering.
HTH
Pop`
Oren
wrote:
DID I miss something in this?
He did say dry paint, never mentioning dried tape!!
Beside, another mentions a variety of tape with various adhesion
qualities.
You will never see me taping off a 17ft ceiling.
George
>
> The trick is to not use tape.
>
> Paint the ceiling first as you did. Then you get a good brush and "cut in"
> the wall. You load the brush with paint, then place it on the wall just
> below the ceiling. Now that your hand is steady, draw the brush up and
> across the seam and back down to end the stroke. It will be 99% perfect
> and that 1% you won't see from ground level.
>
>
Thats exactly what you would see a painter do. Buying 25 rolls of tape
and taping everything is something you only see on those home
improvement shows sponsored by big box stores.
Oren
wrote:
I call him "Pops". He spent a decade in painter apprenticeship. I
really listen as he tells me. What's Tape?
Cheri
>>Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> The trick is to not use tape.
>>>
>>> Paint the ceiling first as you did. Then you get a good brush and
"cut in"
>>> the wall. You load the brush with paint, then place it on the
wall just
>>> below the ceiling. Now that your hand is steady, draw the brush
up and
>>> across the seam and back down to end the stroke. It will be 99%
perfect
>>> and that 1% you won't see from ground level.
Thanks for the tip. That sounds much more useful than tape. Arrrrgh...
I hate the tape.
Cheri
Eigenvector
Oren
wrote:
>I hate the tape.
The cost of blue partner tape is what I really hate.
MarkL
Try a paint shield if you do it free hand, especially a real long one
for this application. You can mount them on short extension poles to
make it easier to handle. You can also use a hockey stick brush with a
shield to cut in without using a ladder. They also make brush holders
that mount to extension poles and allow the brush to be tipped at any
angle. This makes it possible to do really tall walls without a
ladder.
Steve Barker
issues. Last time we used tape, we pulled most of the previous layers of
paint AND some of the sheetrock mud out of the corners next to the ceiling.
No more tape for us. Even the stuff that just barely sticks is a pain.
--
Steve Barker
"Matt" <ndtn...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1178738274.3...@n59g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
Norminn
not just dry - before you tape over it. Remove the tape as soon as the
newest coat is applied so it doesn't dry to the paint film. Also helps
when removing it to pull it flat back on itself, not out and away from
surface.
J.A. Michel
Forget the tape and get a good angle-cut 2" brush. You can get good results
cutting in by using a brush and a steady hand.
Eigenvector
"J.A. Michel" <jm4...@spamnotalltel.net> wrote in message
news:2e6b1$46427fb5$8b37e688$14...@ALLTEL.NET...
starting the job...
Edwin Pawlowski
"Eigenvector" <m44_m...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> Forget the tape and get a good angle-cut 2" brush. You can get good
>> results cutting in by using a brush and a steady hand.
> Yeah but I just drank 4 cups of coffee and had 3 bran muffins before
> starting the job...
With that diet you'll be up and down the ladder so often the paint will dry
between stokes.
resume...@_____.com
Tape is for idiots that dont know how to paint.......
Matt
> Learn how to paint !!!!!!!!
>
> Tape is for idiots that dont know how to paint.......
Great advice. So how should I paint my doors and trim? I have always
rolled the walls and come back in and painted the trim last.
Matt
Norminn
I can paint just about anything but a straight line - I use good
brushes, have practiced a good deal but it always looks bad. That is
why God made masking tape :o)
Doug Miller
Paint the trim first. When painting the walls, cut in around the trim just
like you do at the ceiling. It's *much* easier to get a straight, steady edge
when painting a wall next to the trim, than when painting the trim next to the
wall.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
Banty
says...
Good advice. And ignore the macho stuff about not needing the tape and just
learning how to cut in perfectly - they either 1) are painting pros or 2) are
satisfied with results you probably wouldn't be. Pro painters often can't wait
for the ceiling or trim paint to dry, and get LOTS of practice at it. And I've
seen many DIY cut-in jobs folks have pointed to proudly, that make me wince. So
I use the blue tape and take my time about it. Go with what works for *you*.
When applying, make sure the bond is good on the very edge toward to new
painting, but don't push the whole tape down more than needed to apply it as a
shield. Remove blue tape slooowly.
If you waited 24 hours, you must have either applied the ceiling paint too
thickly, or it's really humid where you are. But, yes, the key is to let the
paint cure some, not just dry.
Banty
Steve Barker
--
Steve Barker
"Matt" <ndtn...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:1178792293.7...@n59g2000hsh.googlegroups.com...
hal...@aol.com
same save tons of trouble:)
Dan Espen
Already been mentioned but just to reinforce the point:
PAINT SHIELD
I use a piece of formica.
I can paint a straight line but prefer to get the job done
quicker.
Goedjn
wrote:
>
Note that, for a high ceiling, you can paint the top edge of the
wall the same color as the ceiling, and only bring the wall color
up to about 1/4" of the corner. Your eyes won't let you see
that the edge isn't where the color-change is.
Kyle
> Arrrrgh...
> I hate the tape.
Agreed. Having done an entire house as well as the dining room and
kitchen in my own house, I can tell you the blue tape is more headache
than it's worth, except in one, small case: painting windows. Then
it's been a great help to me, better than traditional masking tape,
and good as long as I remove it within minutes of painting around the
glass.
On the other hand, it's always been far easier for me to paint the
seam between wall and ceiling or wall and wall-mounted object (such as
cabinets) free hand, or with a paint shield.
Norminn
The old advice used to be to do doors and trim last so's splatter
doesn't get on them, but I haven't listened to anyone's advice for about
30 years :o) I do doors and trim first, and always use alkyd semigloss.
By letting it cure before I do the walls, it is safe to tape and easy
to wipe off any splatters. Always sand gunk and piled up paint out of
the joint, caulk cracks, so when I tape the tape will lie flat. I hate
the prep work but I am fanatic about doing it because I want it to last.
I loathe latex paint on trim and doors because it is impossible to
sand when it is time to paint again, it dings easily and stains easily.
Just got back from a trip to daughter's; removed wallpaper in bathroom
in my spare time whilst kids work. This bath had border all around,
border on the outside of the glass shower door, and cut-out wallpaper
flowers on the tile!!!!!! I'm surprised they didn't cover the windows.
jeffc
"Banty" <Banty_...@newsguy.com> wrote in message
news:f1v4a...@drn.newsguy.com...
>
> Good advice. And ignore the macho stuff about not needing the tape and
> just
> learning how to cut in perfectly - they either 1) are painting pros or 2)
> are
> satisfied with results you probably wouldn't be. Pro painters often can't
> wait
> for the ceiling or trim paint to dry, and get LOTS of practice at it. And
> I've
> seen many DIY cut-in jobs folks have pointed to proudly, that make me
> wince. So
> I use the blue tape and take my time about it. Go with what works for
> *you*.
Tape jobs make ME wince. They always result in crappy looking lines (there
is one way to get tape to work, but it's a lot of trouble and not applicable
here.)
It's not that big a deal. If you can't learn to paint without tape, you're
just ignorant and lazy. It's about the right brush and the right technique.
Anyone can learn to do it in about 10 minutes. Practice on a piece of
cardboard box. Or, if you'd rather. practice above a door against the trim.
No one can see the line up there.
If you don't know the technique, just ask. But don't call it "macho" just
because you're clueless.
jeffc
"J.A. Michel" <jm4...@spamnotalltel.net> wrote in message
news:2e6b1$46427fb5$8b37e688$14...@ALLTEL.NET...
>
> results cutting in by using a brush and a steady hand.
Wrong brush. You want a straight 3.5" to 4" brush, and use it sideways.
jeffc
<hal...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1178803416.1...@w5g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
> Trouble like this is why all white cielings walls and trim all the
> same save tons of trouble:)
Of course the same color looks pretty much like crap, and the sheen is
different (flat or eggshell on the wall and semi-gloss on the trim), but
other than that it works fine.
jeffc
"Goedjn" <pr...@mail.uri.edu> wrote in message
news:iri643d8l5f3m9suc...@4ax.com...
> Note that, for a high ceiling, you can paint the top edge of the
> wall the same color as the ceiling, and only bring the wall color
> up to about 1/4" of the corner. Your eyes won't let you see
> that the edge isn't where the color-change is.
Yeah, except a straight line away from a corner is about impossible to
paint.
h
"jeffc" <no...@none.com> wrote in message
news:4643d663$0$15100$4c36...@roadrunner.com...
then put up the paper. No cut in necessary :)
jJim McLaughlin
SNIPS
>
>
> Note that, for a high ceiling, you can paint the top edge of the
> wall the same color as the ceiling, and only bring the wall color
> up to about 1/4" of the corner. Your eyes won't let you see
> that the edge isn't where the color-change is.
Thats good,