Enamel spray paint in a can for wrought iron?
al
apparent. The supports have lots of filigree design set between iron
tubes. Would enamel spray paint from a can, like rustoleum or krylon,
provide a smoother finish and be as durable as a quality brushed on
enamel?
Thanks.
Harry K
I used it on a gate back in the 80s. Haven't had to do anything to it
since and it still looks great.
Harry K
Joe
Krylon and Rustoleum have been around forever, but the Krylon anti-
rust came years after Rustoleum. Performance might be a standoff, but
I like Krylon for the nice finish on most projects and Rustoleum seems
to take the weather beatinga little better. Flip a coin, I suppose!
Joe
tra...@optonline.net
I'd probably go with the Rustoleum. However with primer with bush
marks, the spray paint may not hide the brush marks.
RicodJour
Look at Hammerite paint. The hammered texture looks great on wrought
iron and hides a multitude of sins. The texture also makes it less
noticeable when you have to touch it up. And it comes in spray cans.
R
Norminn
primer. I have purchased them at Home Depot and at paint store. Glass
jar and aerosol can that screws onto the jar. You need to thin the
paint (Penetrol for oil-base) to spray it. It has a fairly narrow spray
pattern, which was perfect for my project of painting louvered closet
doors. They might get a little splattery when the air is about to run
out. I kept a small foam brush handy, wrung out with mineral spirits,
to catch the occasional run or drip before they set up. It worked very
nicely, with better control than I have had with regular spray cans.
When I first used them, you could buy the air refills separately, but
didn't find them last time I used the outfit. Also painted the old
kitchen range hood vent, using the sprayer with Rustoleum primer and
enamel; turned out very nice. I think I used just a tad of mineral
spirits to thin when I did the range hood, as my can of Penetrol had
dried up :o)
Steve B
"al" <albo...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1173279816.5...@j27g2000cwj.googlegroups.com...
Yes. Just spray it on in several light coats so it does not drip and run.
It will last a long time and look nice.
Steve
RicodJour
Norminn wrote:
> al wrote:
> > I primed wrought iron porch supports with oil but brush marks are very
> > apparent. The supports have lots of filigree design set between iron
> > tubes. Would enamel spray paint from a can, like rustoleum or krylon,
> > provide a smoother finish and be as durable as a quality brushed on
> > enamel?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> There are small (8 oz?) spray kits you can fill with your own paint or
> primer. I have purchased them at Home Depot and at paint store. Glass
> jar and aerosol can that screws onto the jar.
Preval.
http://www.prevalspraygun.com/
There are also refillable metal bottles that use compressed air as the
propellant. They're not as cheap though.
R
Roger Shoaf
are several disadvantages as I see it. First the proper use of a spray can
is holding the nozzle about 10 to 12 inches from what you are painting. On
wrought iron work this is going to mean that 90% of your paint is not going
to end up on the railing.
Second, rattle cans are an expensive way to buy paint.
Third a sprayed on finish is a lot thinner paint film than a brushed on
finish so it will not last as long.
I think I would use a brush, and if you were worried about brush strokes.
add Penetrol to your paint.
--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.
"al" <albo...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1173279816.5...@j27g2000cwj.googlegroups.com...
DanG
What were you planning to do about the brush strokes that are
already there? It sounds as if you did not thin or use Penetrol
in the primer. I assume you used an oil based primer, not some
latex stuff.
Spray can work requires multiple coats just to cover. Most spray
paint does not have the quality or longevity of "real" paint. You
must thin enamel quite a bit to spray with your own spray gun.
Penetrol allows brush work to flow out the brush marks. There is
a product for latex enamel, I think it is called Flowtrol.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgri...@7cox.net
"al" <albo...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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RicodJour
DanG wrote:
> What were you planning to do about the brush strokes that are
> already there? It sounds as if you did not thin or use Penetrol
> in the primer. I assume you used an oil based primer, not some
> latex stuff.
>
> Spray can work requires multiple coats just to cover. Most spray
> paint does not have the quality or longevity of "real" paint. You
> must thin enamel quite a bit to spray with your own spray gun.
> Penetrol allows brush work to flow out the brush marks. There is
> a product for latex enamel, I think it is called Flowtrol.
Floetrol. Stupid name, good product.
R
mm
>
>Those are really for paint you can't find in a spray can like some
>custom mixed auto colors. I had to use them for interior paint on some
>cars I restored before I got a real touch up gun. If you have "air" a
>gun is the way to go.
What do you use to thin auto paint?
I just got my car painted with a color not used by the automakers
since 1979. And I got 5 oz. of spare paint. They call it "silver
effect" where effect means something like metalllic. It will need
thinning, won't it?
mm
those after market spray bottles with the glass jar that you refer to
in your first sentence below.
Roger Shoaf
"mm" <NOPSAM...@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:ispvu2hn4oqe9hm0f...@4ax.com...
I would ask at the body shop that painted your car. Often touch up paint is
applied with a small brush. If you needed to thin the paint to spray it,
they would probably be happy to give you a little bit of thinner of the
correct kind to do the job.
al
> al wrote:
> > I primed wrought iron porch supports with oil but brush marks are very apparent.
> Look at Hammeritepaint. The hammered texture looks great onwrought
> iron and hides a multitude of sins. The texture also makes it less
> noticeable when you have to touch it up. And it comes inspraycans.
The Hammerite sounded like a real good idea, but I contacted the
manufacturer regarding use on oil primer and this was their response,
just for anyone's information who may also consider using it:
"Since Hammerite Rust Cap is Xylene based and you have a solvent based
primer on the surface, I recommend you topcoat with a water based
primer first. The solvents in the Hammerite will lift off the oil
based primer."