Antique Fir Wood Putty
Michael Stoic
boards. Very satisfying project, I must say. The color of the vintage
fir is very distict, with rich creamy yellows and reds all of its own.
I went through the trouble of locating the old stock in the basement,
where it had been used as shelving, from the time the house was built.
The toungue and groove was still there and the boards were the full
3/4"+. I was able to salvage just enough stock to refloor a small
hallway that was reconfigured from the original layout.
Whenever I compare the modern fir with the old, the new stuff seems to
have the pink hue throughout and hardly any yellow. Would be OK on a
new stand-alone install, but in a house already fitted with the old
fir - too much contrast between new and old.
Anyway, my question is about Wood Putty. I'd like to use the sawdust
from this project to fill the nail holes etc. Can anyone share a good
recipe?
dadiOH
> Anyway, my question is about Wood Putty. I'd like to use the sawdust
> from this project to fill the nail holes etc. Can anyone share a good
> recipe?
It and any binder...varnish, shellac, lacquer, glue, polyester resin...
The color will vary depending on the binder. Generally, it will be
*much* darker than the wood itself. White glue gives a about the
nearest to the color of the saw dust; however, it won't "pop" when a top
coat is applied.
--
dadiOH
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dadiOH
> Michael Stoic wrote:
>
>> Anyway, my question is about Wood Putty. I'd like to use the sawdust
>> from this project to fill the nail holes etc. Can anyone share a good
>> recipe?
>
> It and any binder...varnish, shellac, lacquer, glue, polyester
> resin...
>
> The color will vary depending on the binder. Generally, it will be
> *much* darker than the wood itself. White glue gives a about the
> nearest to the color of the saw dust; however, it won't "pop" when a
> top coat is applied.
Dry color varies also depending on whether it is saw dust or sanding
dust. Water base poly varnish might keep the sawdust color pretty well,
don't know, never tried it.
As to how much sawdust to binder, enough of each to make a thick paste.
Michael Stoic
I recall at another occasion, a floor sander doing refinishing (same
vintage fir) in another part of the house, applied the putty after the
sealer coat, but before the final coats.
I was not too happy at the time as I felt that there was insufficient
time for the putty to dry. In most of the cases, I turned out wrong
and the putty matched pretty well and holds to the day (four years
from repairs).
This time, I have a chance to apply the putty before any of the
sanding begins, but this leaves me to select the putty compound
compatible with (water based) sealer and poly.
Can you share any advice on that end of things?
Thank you,
MS
On Tue, 21 Dec 2004 13:50:35 -0500, "dadiOH" <dad...@x-mail.net>
wrote:
dadiOH
> This time, I have a chance to apply the putty before any of the
> sanding begins, but this leaves me to select the putty compound
> compatible with (water based) sealer and poly.
>
> Can you share any advice on that end of things?
Any mentioned would work OK. I'd probably just use the poly.
Michael Stoic
MS
On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 08:24:01 -0500, "dadiOH" <dad...@x-mail.net>
wrote:
dadiOH
> Many thanks for your advice!
One other comment...
The putty can take a LONG time to thoroughly dry....days and days in the
case of poly, a few days if lacquer is used as the binder. Oh, it will
*seem* dry rather quickly but it isn't. And as it dries it will shrink.
That said, do your filling and wait until you are sure it is dry before
you do your final sanding and aplpy a surface coat.