Is tinted primer + one coat of paint enough for repainting walls?
marin...@gmail.com
the logistics.
I'm using Benjamin Moore's Regal Eggshell paint (latex). One room is
currently painted dark orange, the other lime green (both also with BJ
latex paint), and I'm planning to repaint both of them to light cream.
The third bedroom is standard white, and I"m planning to paint that one
a soft, baby blue. All three rooms are small (110-160 sq. ft) with
high, 9.5 foot ceilings, and don't get much natural light (especially
the orange one).
My plan is to use primer tinted close to my topcoat, and follow that
with only one coat of paint. The paint stores near my house charge an
arm and a leg for paint and I'm on a tight budget, so I'm hoping this
is doable.
My question is: Can I get away with using high-quality tinted primer
plus just one coat of paint? I'm especially concerned if that's
possible in the orange room.
I'm not looking to do a perfect job, just a decent one that I'll be
happy with for the year or two I'm living there. Any advice/experience
is much appreciated.
hal...@aol.com
to topcoat
use 2 coats for best coverage, if the rooms are small lighter colors
like white will make it appear larger
Rapid
Art
Why pay 3 times more if you are only going to be there for a short time.
<marin...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148071383....@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
PipeDown
might work if you apply enough paint. Many people roll too much before
going back for more. Try one of those rollers with the built in pump for
fast and even coverage. I noticed that the dark colors mixed in the deep
base were worst at hiding.
I suggest you buy enough for one coat and start while the paint stores are
still open, It should be evident if a second coat is needed as soon as you
put up the first. You'll have time to get another can before the stores
close and force you to work into a second day.
A good high hiding white primer should be fine, you don't need tinted unless
the topcoat is a medium or dark color. Light cream sounds close to white.
<marin...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148071383....@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
George
> Save money and by Behr paint at Home Depot. Kiltz at Walmart is good too.
> Why pay 3 times more if you are only going to be there for a short time.
>
>
painting work. If you think about it paint is probably the least
expensive part of the job so it pays to use a quality paint.
RicodJour
Primer is much thinner than the finish paint. It's designed to soak
in, seal surfaces and act as a bonding agent for the top coat. In
other words, it's not really a good choice if you're looking for
coverage over a darker paint. Tinting it won't improve the hiding
ability. The worst thing that could happen is to use primer and a
single top coat, then find out that it didn't cover to your
satisfaction so you'd be forced to buy more of the expensive top coat
anyway. In other words, you'd have totally wasted your time and money
on the primer.
Before I'd skimp on the top coat, I'd look into getting a less
expensive paint than Benjamin Moore. I'm shuddering as I type that.
In general, you get what you pay for in paint, so a less expensive
paint won't hide as well and won't last as long. The expensive
ingredients in paint are the solids and resins - you won't get as much
of those in a cheaper paint. But, since you're only looking to get a
couple of years out of the paint, the cheaper paint will suffice.
R
PipeDown
"RicodJour" <rico...@worldemail.com> wrote in message
news:1148076983.0...@38g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Primers like PVA type primer fit your description but stain blocking primers
like Kiltz cover up quite well. The difference shows in the price too.
One of the reasons Behr paint is less expensive is that it sells in higher
volume to cost consious consumers from a discount hardware store rather than
meduim volume to pros and elete consumers from specialty paint stores. Lets
not forget Sears (and sears owned OSH) where Glidden and Dutch Boy also have
good premium and high hiding versions. The Dutch Boy, Kids Room line touts
one coat coverage as a feature and they have those cool plastic paint cans
with the screw on lid.
Doug Miller
>dont use primer same color as topcoat, a different one makes it easier
>to topcoat
When paint stores tint primer to match a finish coat, they tint it a slightly
lighter shade of the same hue, so that isn't an issue.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
No
took FOUR coats!!! behr SUCKS - it will cost you 4 times what it should
in paint and time.
With the top of the line benjMoore paint you MIGHT even get away with
one coat, no primer!
Inviato da X-Privat.Org - Registrazione gratuita http://www.x-privat.org/join.php
marin...@gmail.com
(1) Having read about the unreliable quality of cheaper paints, I'm
really hesitant to try a cheaper paint, especially because I'm a novice
at this; and (2) I live in Manhattan and I don't have a car, so I'm
stuck shopping at one of the paint stores near my house.
The paint I want to get (Benjamin Williams) runs $42/gallon, whereas
their primer is a little over half of that, hence, the temptation to
use a coat of primer and one coat, instead of two coats of paint.
I've heard that as a general rule, you should always use primer before
you start, but given that (1) you said primer will offer poor coverage
of the old, darker colors; and (2) at least two of the rooms (the
orange and lime green ones) were painted with latex Benjamin Moore, do
you think I should just skip the primer and do two coats of paint?
Thanks to everyone for all the great advice.
aurgathor
> with only one coat of paint. The paint stores near my house charge an
> arm and a leg for paint and I'm on a tight budget, so I'm hoping this
> is doable.
>
> My question is: Can I get away with using high-quality tinted primer
> plus just one coat of paint?
For a light color, you don't need a tinted primer. Use white primer.
That will allow you to see areas you didn't cover, or didn't cover well,
which would be much more difficult with a tinted primer.
One coat may be enough, butr if not, just put on a thin 2nd coat.
RicodJour
Yes.
R
marin...@gmail.com
the second coat? Would this take a few hours, or should I wait a day?
And when I'm applying the second coat, do I cut in around the edges and
walls first with a brush, like I'm planning to do with the first coat
of paint? Or should I just use a roller the second time around and
paint as close to the edges as possible (would that cause lines to
appear between the first and second coats around the edges because I
didn't cut in)?
Apologies for the ignorant novice questions; I've never painted before.
I tried asking the sales clerk at the paint store for advice about
these details, but he more or less doesn't know (and unfortunately,
doesn't care, either).
Marian Shanley
<marin...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148081998.8...@y43g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...
do
> you think I should just skip the primer and do two coats of paint?
>
I would use masking tape to tape off a small area - few square inches - in
an inconspicuous part of the room - in a dark corner near the floor - and
give it two coats with a sponge brush. This will give you a very good idea
of how it will turn out.
$42.00 a gal. is high - check the 'oops' bin for light shaded neutrals.
hal...@aol.com
Kilz would be a good primer
Mark and Gloria Hagwood
> Do I wait for the first coat of paint to completely dry before I put on
> the second coat? Would this take a few hours, or should I wait a day?
I'd separate the first and second coats by at least a half
day, if it's dry outside and the humidity is low. Open a
window and let some air in to speed things up. If you have
three rooms to paint anyway, just move on to the next room.
What has not been said is that you should use a 1/4" nap
roller or even a foam one if the walls are smooth. The
shorter the nap, the better coverage you'll have. I'd not
fool with a tinted primer- use two coats of paint. Figure
about 400-500 sf per gallon for the two coats. You'll
probably use a bit more on the first coat and less on the
second.
If you're a novice, mask off the important stuff. Use the
blue tape and remove it while the second coat is fresh. If
the paint sticks a tad, use a razor knife to get a clean
"cut edge" against the tape as you peel it off. I also
recommend getting many of the cheap, disposable 9 X 12
Visqueen drops and taping them down to keep spatters off the
floor, radiators, cabinets etc. It's cheap, and you'll
thank yourself. Painting is 25% of the job, the rest is
preparation. For goodness sake, remove the cover plates
from the plugs and switches and tape over the switch and
receptacles. It's also a good time to buy new cover plates-
it really makes a job look spiffy.
>
> And when I'm applying the second coat, do I cut in around the edges and
> walls first with a brush, like I'm planning to do with the first coat
> of paint?
Yes- cut in first with a brush for each coat, then roll out
the rest. Don't fiddle around with a "pump-type" roller.
Just get a good 12" roller and pan from the paint store.
The roller cover is most important, so get a good one with
the shortest nap that will fill any voids. With the high
ceilings, you'll also thank yourself if you get a roller
extension handle. It's also time to invest in a 6' step
ladder, if you don't have one. Keep a lot of paint in the
roller and roll SLOWLY to reduce spatter. With a full
roller, roll about a foot beyond the last paint, then blend
it back into the wet paint. Finally, roll out everything
for about 3' again- slowly and avoid any lines of paint
build-up by rolling again when the roller is out of paint.
Or should I just use a roller the second time around and
> paint as close to the edges as possible (would that cause lines to
> appear between the first and second coats around the edges because I
> didn't cut in)?
Don't do that. Do it right- cut in each coat and roll out
the rest. When you cut in, I never use less than a 3" brush
and generally use a good 4" one- except for tight spaces.
Use a good tipped and flagged artificial bristle brush with
a water based paint. My typical cut-in is about 3" or more.
Be aware of how your roller will "fit" into the corner,
around the window and down around the baseboard.
>
> Apologies for the ignorant novice questions; I've never painted before.
> I tried asking the sales clerk at the paint store for advice about
> these details, but he more or less doesn't know (and unfortunately,
> doesn't care, either).
>
That's a shame. If you're paying $42 a gallon for BM paint,
you should expect to get good advice at the store.
Mark
Edwin Pawlowski
<marin...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148084599....@i39g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Do I wait for the first coat of paint to completely dry before I put on
> the second coat? Would this take a few hours, or should I wait a day?
>
> And when I'm applying the second coat, do I cut in around the edges and
> walls first with a brush, like I'm planning to do with the first coat
> of paint?
I've painted many a room and this is what works for me.
Cut in first. Roll on one coat of paint. Don't be sloppy, but don't try to
stretch the paint either. By the time you get the first coat on, it is dry
enough to put a second coat.
If you did a good job of cutting it, you won't have to go over it again.
Maybe a light spot will show up, but that is minimal. The second coat goes
fast and does not have to be as heavy. An average sized bedroom takes a
gallon of paint. If you have high ceilings and large rooms, two may be
needed.
It may look uneven at first, but when it dries, it will look OK. If you
have paint left over, put some in a jar and seal it well. This will be
handy if you need a touchup in the next few months.
Art
"George" <geo...@nospam.invalid> wrote in message
news:ur6dnTFwduHg3_PZ...@adelphia.com...
Art
"No" <n...@email.com> wrote in message news:446e5...@x-privat.org...
Art
means paint a strip, paint a strip next to it and keep on going. Never go
back to a partially dried area until it is completely dry for recoat.
"PipeDown" <now...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:sirbg.2530$921....@newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...
Art
Of course you are going to hear complaints about Behr paint. A zillion
people use it.
$42 for a gallon of BM? There has to be an alternative.
"Marian Shanley" <marian...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:Rrtbg.215$PX3.180@trndny09...
Art
trim tool looks like a slat from a venetian blind with a handle. Keep the
back of it clean and use mininal paint at the edges.
"Mark and Gloria Hagwood" <Who?@cox.net> wrote in message
news:7pvbg.27049$QP4.558@fed1read12...
High...@notrealisp.gov
>Unfortunately, cheaper paint is not really an option for two reasons:
>(1) Having read about the unreliable quality of cheaper paints, I'm
>really hesitant to try a cheaper paint, especially because I'm a novice
>at this; and (2) I live in Manhattan and I don't have a car, so I'm
>stuck shopping at one of the paint stores near my house.
>The paint I want to get (Benjamin Williams) runs $42/gallon, whereas
>their primer is a little over half of that, hence, the temptation to
>use a coat of primer and one coat, instead of two coats of paint.
$42??????? You must be some wealthy yuppie!
1) Benjamin Moore make a line of paint called Super-Hide. You won't
see the dealers pushing it because it's half the price but it's what
the contractors use. You can have it tinted any color you wish.
2) There is a Home Depot (Behr paints) in Manhattan. Use Google.
Personally I don't like Behr because it dries too quickly but
Consumers Reports gave it a top rating. I prefer Glidden from HD.
3) Go to Pearl Paint on Canal St. If you don't know Pearl Paint
they're a major art supplier but they also have lines of wall paint.
Cheaper than both BM and HD. I have their paint in my hall and it
looks the same as when I applied it twenty years ago.
4) If you've read about "unreliable quality of cheap paints" it was
probably an article (or NG posting) by a seeking-to-justify-existence
"real" paint dealer or employee or friend. You should take these
things with a grain of salt.
Oh, yeah, and if you're using a roller you obviously don't care about
the finish.
marin...@gmail.com
I wish I were a wealthy yuppie. If I were, I wouldn't be sitting here
asking whether I can save money by using primer instead of paint. Or,
come to think of it, I wouldn't even be painting the walls myself - I
would've just hired painters to do the work for me.
Since you seem familiar with the area, I'm sure you know that a lot of
basic things can be uncomfortably expensive in Manhattan, especially
for newer residents who haven't been able to sift through the vast
amount of retail for the places that offer decent prices.
> Oh, yeah, and if you're using a roller you obviously don't care about the finish.
I'm confused; every how-to guide I've come across on-line recommends a
roller. Are you referring to spraying the paint on as a better option?
I also mentioned earlier that I'm not expecting to do a perfect job
(especially since this is my first time painting). But you're probably
right; I just want to live with a color less jarring than the ones on
my wall right now, and I probably wouldn't care if other methods
resulted in a better finish as long as I can still do an acceptable job
with a roller.
I will check out those other paint stores, though. Thanks to everyone
for all the invaluable advice.
RicodJour
>
> Oh, yeah, and if you're using a roller you obviously don't care about
> the finish.
Roller finish quality is a function of the nap thickness of the roller
cover and the paint. Saying all roller finishes are lacking is
misleading. In any event, the OP is a tenant, looking to get a couple
of years out of the paint job, and is totally new to painting. I'd
tend to doubt that she believes that she is going to get a factory
perfect sprayed lacquer finish look her first time out. A roller with
a 1/4" nap will work just fine.
R
Baron
news:1148071383....@g10g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> I'm getting ready to paint my new apartment and am trying to figure out
> the logistics.
>
> I'm using Benjamin Moore's Regal Eggshell paint (latex). One room is
> currently painted dark orange, the other lime green (both also with BJ
> latex paint), and I'm planning to repaint both of them to light cream.
> The third bedroom is standard white, and I"m planning to paint that one
> a soft, baby blue. All three rooms are small (110-160 sq. ft) with
> high, 9.5 foot ceilings, and don't get much natural light (especially
> the orange one).
>
> My plan is to use primer tinted close to my topcoat, and follow that
> with only one coat of paint. The paint stores near my house charge an
> arm and a leg for paint and I'm on a tight budget, so I'm hoping this
> is doable.
>
> My question is: Can I get away with using high-quality tinted primer
> plus just one coat of paint? I'm especially concerned if that's
> possible in the orange room.
>
> I'm not looking to do a perfect job, just a decent one that I'll be
> happy with for the year or two I'm living there. Any advice/experience
> is much appreciated.
>
I suggest that you use at least one primer coat of a pigmented shellac
like Zinsser's BIN. While you have to take some simple precautions due to
the alcoholic fumes, it has two big positives.
1. It dries quickly so you can recoat or apply your topcoat without
making the painting project take a week.
2. It hides the previous surface quite well.
Think of priming as rendering your "canvas" white. Once your wall is
white, or pretty close, you should only need one topcoat of even a medium
quality paint to completely cover the primer coat(s) and whatever may still
be peeking through. Whatever still peaks through will be much less intense
and will have a primer coat over it so a topcoat should cover it. I have
used this technique on many different colored walls and it has always been
successful for me. I admit that I do use a very high quality 100% acrylic
paint for the topcoats but I can clearly see that a standard vinyl or vinyl
/ acrylic blend would work just fine. I can apply two primer coats and one
topcoat in one day with no problem. I always wait at least 24 hours before
applying a second topcoat.
Good Luck.
High...@notrealisp.gov
>High...@NotRealISP.gov wrote:
All rollers regardless of nap length produce a stippled effect; it's
the nature of the beast. But you don't need to go to the expense (and
skill requirement) of spraying: a smooth surface, especially on a
wall, can easily be achieved using brush and paint pad. This method
has the added advantage of allowing the application of more paint per
coat.
High...@notrealisp.gov
>> Oh, yeah, and if you're using a roller you obviously don't care about the finish.
>I'm confused; every how-to guide I've come across on-line recommends a
>roller.
Yes, they will. As long as you don't care about the stippled effect,
the roller will be faster. OTOH spatter will be greater.
> Are you referring to spraying the paint on as a better option?
No. Far too much work for such a small job. Paint pad and brush for
the edges. You'll need a brush anyway.
George
Can't say anything about Kilz but Behr is junk. And this is not from
just one experience with one color or situation. I can buy much better
quality paint at a real paint store for pennies difference.
George
> Last time I used BM I didn't find it to be anything special.
>
It depends what version you buy. Both Sherwin and Benjamin Moore have
low end paint designed to meet a price point such as you would find at
hd and a line of quality stuff. Their low end paint is one step above
the hd premium stuff.
Art
doens't adhere worth a crap.
"George" <geo...@nospam.invalid> wrote in message
news:k6-dnWNb_Zq38O3Z...@adelphia.com...
RicodJour
> In my experience SW is junk. It cleans up well off the brushes because it
> doens't adhere worth a crap.
So far someone has trashed every brand of paint. Does that mean they
all suck? What's that old saying about opinions...?
R
Norminn
> I'm getting ready to paint my new apartment and am trying to figure out
> the logistics.
>
> I'm using Benjamin Moore's Regal Eggshell paint (latex). One room is
> currently painted dark orange, the other lime green (both also with BJ
> latex paint), and I'm planning to repaint both of them to light cream.
> The third bedroom is standard white, and I"m planning to paint that one
> a soft, baby blue. All three rooms are small (110-160 sq. ft) with
> high, 9.5 foot ceilings, and don't get much natural light (especially
> the orange one).
>
> My plan is to use primer tinted close to my topcoat, and follow that
> with only one coat of paint. The paint stores near my house charge an
> arm and a leg for paint and I'm on a tight budget, so I'm hoping this
> is doable.
>
> My question is: Can I get away with using high-quality tinted primer
> plus just one coat of paint? I'm especially concerned if that's
> possible in the orange room.
>
> I'm not looking to do a perfect job, just a decent one that I'll be
> happy with for the year or two I'm living there. Any advice/experience
> is much appreciated.
>
You don't normally need to prime a wall that is already painted.
Priming is not for color - it is for adhesion and sealing in stains.
Buy cheap paint and you will likely need more coats than if you used a
quality paint, like Ben Moore. Two coats of paint is normal. Dark
color with light over it may need a third coat. You do need to be sure
the wall is clean and free of dust. Any good household cleaner, rinse
and dry.
Doug Miller
>You don't normally need to prime a wall that is already painted.
Not normally, but in a case such as this -- where he's painting over a color
that will be difficult to hide -- a tinted stain-blocking primer can be a
great help.
>Priming is not for color - it is for adhesion and sealing in stains.
>Buy cheap paint and you will likely need more coats than if you used a
>quality paint, like Ben Moore.
Absolutely right. Cheap paint is usually more expensive in the long run.
> Two coats of paint is normal.
Right again.
>Dark color with light over it may need a third coat.
Or two coats over a tinted primer -- which may well be less expensive. Depends
partly on the size of the room: for example, if one can of paint is not enough
for two coats, but two cans is enough for three, then skip the primer.
>You do need to be sure
>the wall is clean and free of dust. Any good household cleaner, rinse
>and dry.
Amen! Too many people omit this step... then post here wondering why the paint
is peeling. :-)
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
Art
of environmental concerns and ingredients which can no longer be used in
paint. But some are worse than others. Plus some paint companies are less
than ethical. A friend of mine had a summer job when he was young and in
school pouring paint from old damaged cans into new cans for sale. That is
why sometimes when you get a can of paint you feel like you need to filter
it thru cheese cloth before using it. Best thing to do is to return it.
"RicodJour" <rico...@worldemail.com> wrote in message
news:1148231452....@38g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
George
> In my experience SW is junk. It cleans up well off the brushes because it
> doens't adhere worth a crap.
>
>
Sure, if you paint over dirt or grease.
My house and a number of apartments I own are painted with SW paint and
I am quite pleased with how tough the paint is and how well it holds up.
I started using it on the advice of someone who owns hundreds of apartments.
We were painting some rooms that were freshly drywalled and people
actually thought the primer was the top coat because of how well it covered.
Norminn
> In article <ZW3cg.5077$x4....@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net>, Norminn <nor...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>
>>You don't normally need to prime a wall that is already painted.
>
>
> Not normally, but in a case such as this -- where he's painting over a color
> that will be difficult to hide -- a tinted stain-blocking primer can be a
> great help.
>
and paint when two coats of paint would cover better?
Banty
Right.
Tinting primer only makes sense when covering, or going to, a very deep color
from or to a light color.
Why would one create tinted primers fer ever' color they're gonna paint - how
can that save much $$$?
Methinks the original poster is in danger of outsmarting himself.
Banty
--
Doug Miller
You're missing the point. Two finish coats is a given anyway. The question is
one coat of tinted blocking primer plus two finish coats, vs. three finish
coats.
Doug Miller
>In article <vamcg.5371$x4....@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net>, Norminn
> says...
>>
>>Doug Miller wrote:
>>>In article <ZW3cg.5077$x4....@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net>, Norminn
>>><nor...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>You don't normally need to prime a wall that is already painted.
>>>
>>>
>>> Not normally, but in a case such as this -- where he's painting over a color
>
>>> that will be difficult to hide -- a tinted stain-blocking primer can be a
>>> great help.
>>>
>>Primers have a lot less hiding power than paint. Why would you prime
>>and paint when two coats of paint would cover better?
>
>Right.
>
>Tinting primer only makes sense when covering, or going to, a very deep color
>from or to a light color.
Which is *exactly* the situation the OP described...
RicodJour
> Norminn <nor...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >Doug Miller wrote:
> >> Norminn <nor...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> >>
> >>>You don't normally need to prime a wall that is already painted.
> >>
> >> Not normally, but in a case such as this -- where he's painting over a color
> >> that will be difficult to hide -- a tinted stain-blocking primer can be a
> >> great help.
> >>
> >Primers have a lot less hiding power than paint. Why would you prime
> >and paint when two coats of paint would cover better?
>
> You're missing the point. Two finish coats is a given anyway. The question is
> one coat of tinted blocking primer plus two finish coats, vs. three finish
> coats.
I don't know if it's automatically a three coat job. Two finish coats
should cover. If it's not, either the paint is a low solids cheapo
brand or it's being put on too thinly.
There are other reasons to omit the primer entirely. Leftover tinted
primer is pretty much useless, whereas leftover finish paint is very
useful. There's also the Murphy's Law factor - you'll either have too
much leftover primer _and_ finish paint left over, or you'll run short.
The first case gives the OP inventory - not really a benefit, and the
second case costs her more for the expensive finish paint. The most
economical way to maximize the materials cost is to use the same color
finish paint on two coats for the three rooms and skip the primer.
R
Jennifer
marin...@gmail.com wrote:
> Unfortunately, cheaper paint is not really an option for two reasons:
> (1) Having read about the unreliable quality of cheaper paints, I'm
> really hesitant to try a cheaper paint, especially because I'm a novice
> at this
Year after year, Consumer Reports puts Behr (Home Depot) and American
Traditions (Lowes) at or near the top of their interior paints lists
after testing for durability, fading, and I forget what-all else. I
don't remember if they test number of coats needed.
I've used both of those brands in a total of 8 rooms in my old and new
houses, and been perfectly happy with them, though the longest I've
lived with any of them was three years. American Traditions feels
easier to work with than Behr; it's a little less watery and seems to
give better coverage on the first coat, but I've never needed more than
two coats from either one, with and without primer.
I have seen homes painted in higher-end paints, and I really can't see
any difference. Maybe I'll regret my choices in 5 years, but I'm
probably going to want to change colors by then, anyway ;)
Painting is so easy, even as a novice, that you'll soon be wondering
what the hell was so intimidating about it. It's also serious instant
gratification, almost addictive :) Have fun and good luck.
--
Jennifer
Norminn
> In article <vamcg.5371$x4....@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net>, Norminn <nor...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>>Doug Miller wrote:
>>
>>>In article <ZW3cg.5077$x4....@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net>, Norminn
>>
>><nor...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>>You don't normally need to prime a wall that is already painted.
>>>
>>>
>>>Not normally, but in a case such as this -- where he's painting over a color
>>>that will be difficult to hide -- a tinted stain-blocking primer can be a
>>>great help.
>>>
>>
>>Primers have a lot less hiding power than paint. Why would you prime
>>and paint when two coats of paint would cover better?
>
>
> You're missing the point. Two finish coats is a given anyway. The question is
> one coat of tinted blocking primer plus two finish coats, vs. three finish
> coats.
>
Primer is a waste in this situation. Two coats of paint cover most
colors. Three for drasticly different colors. If three coats of paint
are needed to cover a color, then three it is. Primer doesn't cover.
Doug Miller
Are you missing the word "blocking" in the phrase "blocking primer"
accidentally or intentionally?
Norminn
>>
>>Primer is a waste in this situation. Two coats of paint cover most
>>colors. Three for drasticly different colors. If three coats of paint
>>are needed to cover a color, then three it is. Primer doesn't cover.
>
>
> Are you missing the word "blocking" in the phrase "blocking primer"
> accidentally or intentionally?
>
A blocking primer, as I understand it, keeps stains and some wood
pigments from bleeding through into the PAINT coating. Has nothing at
all to do with whether the paint that goes on after it COVERS the
underlying color. Entirely different issues.
RicodJour
Most stain blocking primers don't mention their hiding ability as
they're primarily sealers and don't hide all that well.
http://www.benjaminmoore.com/wrapper_pg2art.asp?L=info&K=pr&N=press&art=7.4.2.26
There are a few stain blocking primers that have improved hiding
ability. Zinsser makes two - High Hide and Deep Tint (although this
one relies on added colorant to improve the hide).
http://www.zinsser.com/subcat.asp?CategoryID=1
R
Banty
says...
>
>In article <e4ssp...@drn.newsguy.com>, Banty <Banty_...@newsguy.com>
>wrote:
>>In article <vamcg.5371$x4....@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net>, Norminn
>> says...
>>>
>>>Doug Miller wrote:
>>>>In article <ZW3cg.5077$x4....@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net>, Norminn
>>>><nor...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>You don't normally need to prime a wall that is already painted.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Not normally, but in a case such as this -- where he's painting over a color
>>
>>>> that will be difficult to hide -- a tinted stain-blocking primer can be a
>>>> great help.
>>>>
>>>Primers have a lot less hiding power than paint. Why would you prime
>>>and paint when two coats of paint would cover better?
>>
>>Right.
>>
>>Tinting primer only makes sense when covering, or going to, a very deep color
>>from or to a light color.
>
>Which is *exactly* the situation the OP described...
>
Eh - the dark orange to cream, yes. The others, nah. *Maybe* the lime green to
cream, if the lime green is very deep, but most of the time it's not .... White
to baby blue? C'mon.
He only needs one tinted primer. Frankly, I'd just go with the two coats paint.
Banty
--
Doug Miller
>clipped
>>>
>>>Primer is a waste in this situation. Two coats of paint cover most
>>>colors. Three for drasticly different colors. If three coats of paint
>>>are needed to cover a color, then three it is. Primer doesn't cover.
>>
>>
>> Are you missing the word "blocking" in the phrase "blocking primer"
>> accidentally or intentionally?
>>
>
>A blocking primer, as I understand it, keeps stains and some wood
>pigments from bleeding through into the PAINT coating.
Yes, and it also is better at hiding hard-to-cover colors such as the vivid
orange and lime green that the OP described.
> Has nothing at
>all to do with whether the paint that goes on after it COVERS the
>underlying color. Entirely different issues.
Not correct.
marin...@gmail.com
bought Benjamin Moore's top-line eggshell paint. I primed the orange
walls using BM's stain-blocking primer, but painted straight over the
white walls in the bedroom.
In both rooms, the first coat of paint covered so well that I didn't
end up painting a second coat. Of course, like I mentioned, (1) I don't
get much natural light in either room, and (2) I wasn't too picky about
my own workmanship, so it might actually be a shoddier paint job than I
think. Still, I'm mostly happy with the results (the blue didn't turn
out to be the exact same shade I had in my mind, but it's acceptable).
In any case, I'm definitely a fan of Benjamin Moore now; although this
is the only paint I've used so far, it seems very good paint for sloppy
novices like me to work with - easy to put on, quick-drying, great
coverage, tolerable smell, and fairly easy to wash off of skin and
hardwood floors.