Briggs & Stratton Engine Problem
Manjo
is pretty simple with a choke butterfly, throttle butterfly, and
rubber diaphragm fuel pump. The carb sits on top of the fule tank.
The carb has no bowl. The governor linakges are clean and the
governor appears to be working fine.
The leaf blower was starting to run poorly last fall. This spring it
started right up, but after4-5 seconds after running smoothly at
proper speed, it will slowly loose rpms and finally stop after 15-20
seconds.
I have cleaned the pick-up tube, replaced the carburetor diaphragm
fuel pump along with the gaskets between the carb and the fuel tank,
and the gasket between the carb and the engine. I've also
disconnected the engine ground wire that normally kills the engine
when the throttle is tuned full off. But after doing all this the
engine still will not stay running for more than 30 - 40 seconds.
Thanks in advance for any tips, suggestions, or coments.
Manjo
gpsman
> the
> engine still will not stay running for more than 30 - 40 seconds.
Got to be spark or fuel, sounds like fuel. Assuming this is a 2-
cycle, how's the fuel mix? I always like to check the simplest thing
first.
Other than that, you'll have to hold it up to the interweb so I can
hear it.
-----
- gpsman
S. Barker
s
"Manjo" <manj...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:136c7d0c-216e-4957...@f63g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
S. Barker
s
"gpsman" <gps...@driversmail.com> wrote in message
news:e5550f1c-2914-42de...@f63g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
Oren
wrote:
Examine the spark plug or just replace it. Check for fuel /air mixture
adjustment. Make sure air filter is clean.
Compare sprak plug to this chart.
Manjo
gpsman,
Nope, I wish it were. It's a 4-cycle.
I have unlimited web phone. I could call you, but I think I can
describe just as well:
It starts normally and revs up fine. The governor is NOT NOT pulling
the throttle butterfly closed. After 4-5 seconds of running fine, the
rpms start to drop and within 10-15 seconds the rpms drop to zero.
When it dies, sometimes there's a small puff of exhaust out the carb,
and once I could feel a slight spray-back of fuel out of the carb.
Manjo (see other replies below)
Manjo
> try it with the gas cap off.
>
> s
>
>
> - Show quoted text -
s,
I don't think it's a gas tank vacuum problem. I did remove the cap
completely and got the same symptoms with no changes (engine ran for a
little while then slowly died).
Manjo
Manjo
> On Wed, 16 Apr 2008 19:30:10 -0700 (PDT), Manjo <manjo1...@gmail.com>
>
> - Show quoted text -
The old spark plug was installed last fall. But I did replace the
spark plug yesterday just in case, but with no improvement.
I'll check the idle screw. There seem to be no other carb fuel
adjustment screws per the parts list and B&S repair manual.
Manjo
Manjo
Sorry, forgot to reply to additinal tips:
I get the same engine dying with and without the air filter in place.
As for spark plug color, the new spark plug looks a bit oil covered,
but I'm guessing the shiny look is more form unburnt gas, but I'm not
sure.
Manjo
Jeff Wisnia
Any chance the choke butterfly is oozing closed somehow?
Last year I had a similar frustrating problem with the vertical shaft
Tecumseh on my rotary mower. If I pushed down on the handle to raise the
front of the mower the engine would slow down noticably, but not stop.
I tried all the usuals, including draining and cleaning the fuel tank
and disassembling, cleaning and reassembling the carb with new caskets, etc.
Nothing changed, the engine still slowed down when tilted slightly back.
Not wanting to make a PhD thesis out of it I just bought a new carb
online, installed it and "Bob's yer uncle", problem gone.
Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.
Don Young
"Manjo" <manj...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:136c7d0c-216e-4957...@f63g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
able to get it to run a bit longer by partially closing the choke or by
squirting a little gasoline into the intake as it starts to die. If that
does not help, you likely have a temperature related ignition failure. That
could be caused by a control module, ignition coil or condenser.
If it is fuel related, first be sure you have good fresh gasoline. Otherwise
there is almost certainly something wrong with the carburetor. Use a
carburetor cleaning spray to be certain that all passages are clean and be
sure you have all the parts correctly installed. If it has one, carefully
check the inlet filter screen at the bottom of the carburetor. A partially
clogged filter could cause it to start after sitting a while but not allow
enough fuel to pass to keep it running.
Don Young
Oren
wrote:
It sounds fuel starved to me. Checking the spark with the plug out and
grounded to the head would tell if there is enough spark (bright blue,
snappy and not a weak yellow). Then I would use a carb /starting
fluid.
As the engine is about to die spray into the carb throat. If the
engine picks up pep, runs higher rpm....check the carb.
*ONE* thing I would be sure to check is the gas line. Look for small
cracks and /or replace.
Next is! How is the fuel filter?
Manjo
> On Thu, 17 Apr 2008 20:58:56 -0500, "Don Young" <no...@nonesuch.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> - Show quoted text -
GROUP REPLY (Don, Jeff, jp):
The engine starts, revs properly and then dies with the choke
partially or fully OFF about the same time. Keeping the choke on full
kills the engine faster.
A couple of days ago when I started working on this problem, the fuel
intake screen at the bottom of the intake tube in the gas tank had a
lot of junk in it. I pulled the intake tube off the brass intake tube
and sprayed both with non-residue brake cleaner fluid and blew air
through the tubes both ways to clean them out.
Yesterday, I DID take the gas tank completely off the engine and used
filtered gasoline to flush the tank. I swirled the gas in the tank
and then poured the gas from the tank into a funnel lined with a paper
filter. The funnel/filter were feeding into a clean gas container. I
did this several times and I DID get A LOT more debris out of the
tank. Most of the pieces were about 1/64th to 1/32nd of an inch.
Some stuff was black and other pieces were sand in color. I’m
wondering if stuff is getting TEMPORARILY sucked up against the intake
screen killing the engine, then the debris drops back on to the bottom
of the tank when the engine dies???
There is no fuel line. The carb fits directly on top of and is bolted
to the fuel tank and then the carb is bolted to the engine. There's
no fuel line. There's a nylon or plastic feed tube from the carb into
the tank. There's also a small reservoir at the top of the tank that
looks like a idle feed tube with an intake jet at the bottom that I
believe feeds the carb's idle circuit. I blew compressed air through
all the carb circuits yesterday, but TODAY I will also spray
Berryman’s carb cleaner through all the circuits before putting
everything back together.
I have the air filter off the carb and can see the entire choke
butterfly. The butterfly arm sits in a slotted nylon detent that
holds the arm in place. As far as I can tell, the butterfly is
staying firmly in place. I don't have a tilting problem since the
carb has no carb bowl or float.
I have gotten the engine to run a second or two longer each time I
spray engine-starting fuel into the carb intake (at the choke
butterfly). But even constantly spraying starter fluid into the carb
won’t keep it running. I have not tried spraying gas into the carb
because I'm assuming the starter fluid is more condensed and more
volatile than regular gas.
I hope it is a fuel starvation problem and this will fix the dying
problem. If it doesn't, then I'm going to replace the magneto.
Thanks for all the great tips and replies. Please keep them coming if
you see I'm missing anything.
Manjo
Manjo
The engine starts, revs properly and then dies with the choke
partially or fully OFF about the same time. Keeping the choke on full
kills the engine faster.
GROUP REPLY TO Don, Jeff, jp (might be a duplicate post)
A couple of days ago when I started working on this problem, the fuel
intake screen at the bottom of the intake tube in the gas tank had a
lot of junk in it. I pulled the intake tube off the brass intake tube
and sprayed both with non-residue brake cleaner fluid and blew air
through the tubes both ways to clean them out.
Yesterday, I DID take the gas tank completely off the engine and used
filtered gasoline to flush the tank. I swirled the gas in the tank
and then poured the gas from the tank into a funnel lined with a paper
filter. The funnel/filter were feeding into a clean gas container. I
did this several times and I DID get A LOT more debris out of the
tank. Most of the pieces were about 1/64th to 1/32nd of an inch.
Some stuff was black and other pieces were sand in color. I’m
wondering if stuff is getting TEMPORARILY sucked up against the intake
screen killing the engine, then the debris drops back on to the bottom
of the tank when the engine dies???
There is no fuel line and no inline fuel filter other than the wire
screeen at the bottom of the intake tube. The carb fits directly on
ds...@webtv.net
----------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm
S. Barker
s
<ds...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:10489-480...@storefull-3255.bay.webtv.net...
Jeff
"S. Barker" wrote:
> when was the last time you saw a briggs and stratton TWO-CYCLE!?!
Although the original poster's engine is a 4 cycle, B&S certainly has made
two cycle engines, and I believe they still do, at least for some snow
applications.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/images/bsshop/100/ec_l_800100.jpg
S. Barker
they figgered they failed the four stroke test. (they USED to make the best
4 stroke on the market, now they're junk)
s
"Jeff" <je...@spam.free> wrote in message news:4809023D...@spam.free...
Manjo
>
> - Show quoted text -
Got it all back together and it ran just a bit better. The engine
still runs fine for a few seconds and then start the same decline
until it stops.
I watched everything and it all seemed to function correctly. I then
tried pressing down and twisting the spark plug cap and the engine
"seemed" to run a little longer at proper rpm, but it still died. I
crimped the spark plug c0onnector and it ran a few seconds more, but
still died.
My current theory is there's a magneto or spark plug cable problem.
I'm going to try crimping the spark plug cap tighter and if that
helps, but doesn’t solve the problem, I'll take the magneto off the
engine and check it visually.
Does anyone know how to test a magneto? My magneto is behind the pull
starter and cover combination, and to gain access to the magneto
requires removing the cover, but no way to hand starts the engine with
the recoil starter off the engine. Right now, when I do an ohms test,
I get 2,500 ohms with one probe on the spark plug cap and the other
probe against the magneto body. Does anyone know what voltage the
magneto is creating? Can a standard voltmeter be set-up between the
spark plug and spark plug cap for a reading, or will the magneto blow
out the meter?
TIA for everyone's help.
Manjo
ransley
It probably has an electronic ignition mobule, see if it gets spark
just after dying, if its very old with points maybe a capacitor is bad
pheeh...@gmail.com
When you had the carb apart to change the diaphragm and clean the pick-
up tube...did you shoot carb cleaner thru the jets to see if they are
clear?
Oren
>had to do a valve job on mine when it did that.lucas
>
Like killing a gnat with a hammer :-)
Oren
wrote:
>On Apr 18, 12:22 pm, Manjo <manjo1...@gmail.com> wrote:
...(magneto) results in up to 10,000 V or more at the spark plug.
read this page..(Testing the magneto)
pheeh...@gmail.com
My thought on the mag being bad...it would take minutes not seconds
for it to thermally fail.
Manjo
>
> - Show quoted text -
THe engine is about 10 years old. Here's a link I created to the
parts manual pdf file.
http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B&S_Engine/MS2810%20ILLUS%20PARTS%20LIST%20old.pdf
Page 7 has an exploded parts diagram and lists all the "electronics".
I don't know or understand magneto systems very well other than they
are designed to be create a spark without the need for a battery or
alternator. I've looked on the engine and in the parts list and all I
see are the magneto assembly (windings block and spark plug wire)
bolted to the engine block, and what looks like a set of aluminum(?)
finds on the rotor that interrupt the creation of current in order to
create a spark at the plug. Manjo
Manjo
>
> - Show quoted text -
Yes. I sprayed Berrymans B-12 carb cleaner into all carb circuits I
could find including removing a small idle circuit screw and spraying
fluid in there too. I looked for and saw spray fluid drip out the
other end of the ciruits. I then blew compressed air into each
circuit and felt fluid and then air come out the other end of the
circuit.
For what it's worth, there are only four (4) circuits I could locate:
main pick-up tube circuit from the gas tank into the main carnb
venturi; a shorter pick-up carb arm at the bottom with a jet fed from
a small "cup" at the top of the gas tank; the idle circuit adjustment
screw hole at the side; and what looks like an EPA crankcase gases
recirculation port from a cover over the valves feeding back into and
just above the choke butterfly valve. Here's a link I created to
the Parts List pdf. The carb parts are shown and listed on Page 4.
http://home.comcast.net/~manjo1111/B&S_Engine/MS2810%20ILLUS%20PARTS%20LIST%20old.pdf
Manjo
Manjo
> On Fri, 18 Apr 2008 15:04:18 -0700 (PDT), Manjo <manjo1...@gmail.com>
>
> - Show quoted text -
Great page. I looked at my multimeter and it can only handle up to
1,000 DCV. 10,000 DCV would blow mine up.
Manjo
Manjo
>
> - Show quoted text -
I don't know anything about magnetos. I have to ask why would it take
minutes? Would it take that long for a winding to heat up and
separate (if that's possible)? I get a 2,500 ohm reading through the
spark plug cap to the body of the magneto. I did visually check the
connections and there are only a couple and they seemed in place when
I getnly pushed them with a screw driver tip.
Manjo
dpb
> I have a leaf blower that uses a 5 hp B&S "L" head engine. ...
...
> The leaf blower was starting to run poorly last fall. This spring it
> started right up, but after4-5 seconds after running smoothly at
> proper speed, it will slowly loose rpms and finally stop after 15-20
> seconds.
>
> I have cleaned the pick-up tube, replaced the carburetor diaphragm
> fuel pump along with the gaskets between the carb and the fuel tank,
> and the gasket between the carb and the engine. I've also
> disconnected the engine ground wire that normally kills the engine
> when the throttle is tuned full off. But after doing all this the
> engine still will not stay running for more than 30 - 40 seconds.
>
> Thanks in advance for any tips, suggestions, or coments.
I've not read the rest of the thread but noted you were apparently still
searching --
Anybody suggested checking the exhaust screen (I'm assuming it has one)
for C deposits? Sounds like it could be clogged w/ buildup which will
cause such symptoms...
--
Oren
wrote:
>On Apr 18, 9:44 pm, Oren <O...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
Do a "shade tree mechanic" (G) test. Pull the plug, re-attach the wire
on the plug and lay the plug on a good ground (scratch the paint) of
metal. Pull the start rope and watch the spark. You want to see a
bright blue spark and hear it snap.
(The other method is to hold the plug wire terminal in your hand give
'er a yank on the rope:) BTDT.
The flywheel has two magnets inside (not shown in your .pdf file).
They can become corroded and a simply cleaning with a fine sand paper
can clean them to a shine.
Magnetos do go bad, but very seldom in my experience.
Look on the last page at part #147 (Seal Needle Valve) and part #118
(adjustment screw), If one or both are damaged, you'll not get the
proper adjustment.
Examine the tip of the screw for damage or wear. Sometimes they bend
the tip of the screw if the tighten them down to far into the seat.
I'm throwing things out there, because I like/want to avoid pulling
the flywheel.
Now, have you hit anything last fall with the mower? The flywheel has
a shear pin. It can be a small fracture, but the timing is off on the
magneto...just a bit.
Gary Dyrkacz.
How about checking around the head gasket for leaks. I had a lawnmower
engine that exhibited a similar problem.
Manjo
wrote:
>
> - Show quoted text -
I know it doesn't do much good, but I did do a visual check of the
head gasket edges. Nothing unusual, but I'll check it with some sudsy
water today. I lent out my leak down tester (I hope to get back soon)
so I had to use a standard cylinder compression tester. I got
consistent readings of 74 psi with a warm (not hot) engine. I think
this is a good reading since it's a small cylinder, unlike an auto
engine cylinder. Manjo
Manjo
>
> - Show quoted text -
The exhaust has not been checked. I did put my hand near the exhaust
canister and I could feel puffs of air as the engine ran at normal
rpm. But now that you mention this, the air pressure felt a little
low or soft. I'll pull the can and check it today. Manjo
Manjo
> On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 07:33:17 -0700 (PDT), Manjo <manjo1...@gmail.com>
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> >Great page. I looked at my multimeter and it can only handle up to
> >1,000 DCV. 10,000 DCV would blow mine up.
>
> >Manjo
>
> Do a "shade tree mechanic" (G) test. Pull the plug, re-attach the wire
> on the plug and lay the plug on a good ground (scratch the paint) of
> metal. Pull the start rope and watch the spark. You want to see a
> bright blue spark and hear it snap.
>
> (The other method is to hold the plug wire terminal in your hand give
> 'er a yank on the rope:) BTDT.
>
> The flywheel has two magnets inside (not shown in your .pdf file).
> They can become corroded and a simply cleaning with a fine sand paper
> can clean them to a shine.
>
> Magnetos do go bad, but very seldom in my experience.
>
> Look on the last page at part #147 (Seal Needle Valve) and part #118
> (adjustment screw), If one or both are damaged, you'll not get the
> proper adjustment.
>
> Examine the tip of the screw for damage or wear. Sometimes they bend
> the tip of the screw if the tighten them down to far into the seat.
>
> I'm throwing things out there, because I like/want to avoid pulling
> the flywheel.
>
> Now, have you hit anything last fall with the mower? The flywheel has
> a shear pin. It can be a small fracture, but the timing is off on the
>
> - Show quoted text -
Good idea to clean the magneto. I've been hesitant to remove the
magneto since it seems to be a pretty close fit to the rotor and I
didn't want to introduce another problem, but it's time now. The
rotor itself has some light rust that I'll sand lightly, too.
I did a similar spark plug test a few days ago. I left the spark plug
in the engine port and put another spark plug in the cap and held it
to the top of the first and I was able to start the engine. Although
it ran a little slower rpm-wise, the engine functioned close to normal
and I could see a spark across the hand-help plug gap that looked
good. As the engine slowed down, there was more yellow coloration to
the spark and then the engine died. I will try this and your test
again just to be sure I’m getting a decent spark after I clean the
magneto and rotor.
I haven't chased the valve seat, but I did spray it with carb cleaner
and blew it out with compressed air. I checked the idle adjustment
needle tip and it looked good: it was straight and did not have any
apparent wear or damage to the tip.
I'll check all these things today.
Manjo
ransley
>
> - Show quoted text -
If spark is yellow its weak, it should be white to blue white,
patrick mitchel
drive in it? Was thinking of a way to power the engine using a drive to spin
the motor - with the plug out and grounded. Long enough to see if the coil
overheats and breaks down and loses spark. That would at least remove one of
the variables. Having gone through a series of question with a 8 hp briggs L
head (finally found an intermittent intake valve) that caused me some
pondering before I was able to put the thing back in service shredding the
freakin ivy wall on the north side of the property. Pat
Oren
wrote:
>On Apr 19, 11:00 am, dpb <n...@non.net> wrote:
The crankcase has a breather also. See parts 8 & 9. This allows gases
to escape out the crankcase. They can be clogged, but cleaned easily.
Oren
wrote:
>> How about checking around the head gasket for leaks. I had a lawnmower
>> engine that exhibited a similar problem.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>I know it doesn't do much good, but I did do a visual check of the
>head gasket edges. Nothing unusual, but I'll check it with some sudsy
>water today. I lent out my leak down tester (I hope to get back soon)
>so I had to use a standard cylinder compression tester. I got
>consistent readings of 74 psi with a warm (not hot) engine. I think
>this is a good reading since it's a small cylinder, unlike an auto
>engine cylinder. Manjo
If you did have a leak at the head gasket; you might hear a slight
whistle sound with the engine running. A blown gasket and I doubt the
engine would run, as the power combustion goes out the passage/leak.
Oren
wrote:
>I did a similar spark plug test a few days ago. I left the spark plug
>in the engine port and put another spark plug in the cap and held it
>to the top of the first and I was able to start the engine.
If you pull the plug out and test, there is now no compression. Pull
the rope and cycle through several power strokes and you can get a
better exam of the spark.
dpb
>> so I had to use a standard cylinder compression tester. I got
>
> If you did have a leak at the head gasket; you might hear a slight
> whistle sound with the engine running. A blown gasket and I doubt the
> engine would run, as the power combustion goes out the passage/leak.
A "blown" gasket wouldn't give 75 psi, either... :)
--
pheeh...@gmail.com
The engine needs to RUN in order to heat the coil to thermal fault.
Spinning has little to do with it.
Manjo
GROUP REPLY
Well, I got the leaf blower running well enough so I could blow leaves
off the backyard yesterday.
I did remove and checked the muffler. I took off a cap used to direct
the exhaust. IT looked OK and I could blow air in through the bottom
and it was clear. A few days ago I removed and cleaned the crankcase
vent (Parts 8 & 9). I put more Berrymans B-12 carb cleaner in the gas
to enrich it a bit more and perhaps clean out any varnish I might have
missed when I cleaned the carb earlier. I also connected my
compressor to the spark plug hole. I started at 30 psi and went up to
almost 100 psi, and heard no leakage nor did the compressor go on
(it’s a small 3 gallon pancake compressor that empties fast if it
constantly flows air which it didn’t). Being at TDC, the rings, head
gasket and valves appear to be in good shape.
I then removed the magneto and lightly sanded its two pick-ups, and
the rotor. The rotor magnet seemed to still be very strong. I also
noticed the magneto air-gap had been set (or the bolts became loose)
so that the existing air-gap was smaller than what the manual calls
for (010 to .014 inches). So I re-installed the magneto with a .012-
inch air-gap.
I got everything back together and pulled the starter cord several
times without the engine starting. I squirted starter fluid into the
open carb intake at the choke butterfly, pulled the cord and the
engine started, then died as it had before. I pulled the cord again
and the engine caught and ran a little longer. I kept doing this and
each time the engine ran longer until I could get the engine to keep
running with the choke about half closed. I put the air filter tray
and air filter back on the running engine. The engine kept running
and I little by little I turned the choke to full off. I then used
the leaf blower for about 35 minutes to gather the backyard leaves.
This morning I basically went through the same process of squirting
starter fluid into the air intake and having the engine start and stop
several times until it appeared that the engine was warmed up and
would run with the choke half-on. I didn’t run the engine longer
since I had other things to do before I could continue gathering
leaves.
Looking back over the past few days, I think ALL the suggestions and
tips helped to get the engine in better shape in order to be ready to
run correctly (clean carb and gas tank, check spark, compression, and
exhaust, etc.). Since setting the magneto and sanding the pick-ups and
rotor were the last things done, along with adding carb cleaner to the
gas tank still leaves me with either a spark strength problem, a
carburetion problem, or a carburetion problem caused by a weak spark.
I’m going to keep an eye out for a spark tester as shown in the B&S
repair manual so I can thoroughly test the spark before Fall.
I appreciate everyone’s input that got me this far. If anyone sees
something I’ve missed or would like to provide an additional test or
suggestion so I can get the leaf blower to run constantly at full
rpms, please let me know.
Manjo
Husky
Your description above indicates you do not understand how this
carburetor functions. The long pick up to the bottom of the tank is the
FUEL PUMP PICK UP. It does not feed the venturi, it feeds the diaphragm
fuel pump in the side of the carb. The fuel pump feeds the reservoir in
the top of the tank, overflowing back into the tank when the "bowl" is
full. The short tube in the bowl is the same as the main and idle feed
in any combined circuit bowl type carb. The main feed goes through a
fixed metering jet or a screw on the top. The idle metering is through a
screw on the side. Air into the screen on the bottom of the short tube
should come out in the idle screw AND the main venturi. Air blown into
the long tube should come out the side of the diaphragm mounting surface
or the bottom of the carburetor, depending on whether the diaphragm is
installed or not. However, compressed air into the long tube while the
diaphragm is installed is liable to rupture the diaphragm.
The tube for the crankcase gases, while there to reduce pollution, has
been there since long before the EPA was even created. That carburetor
has been around in one form or another since the 1960's.
Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it
running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb
intake? Have you tried running the engine with a spark tester in the
plug wire? With the tank half full, does the inner reservoir fill up
after a few pulls of the rope? Are the little "flaps" cut in the
diaphragm curling up or laying flat against the side face of the carb?
Did you use a new diaphragm, or just reinstall the old one?
I'm all for people who get the manuals, and have the skills doing their
own work. But this knowledge is what you either pay for the manuals or
hire a properly trained technician to provide.
pheeh...@gmail.com
I have only worked on a couple carbs like this a what he said brought
back memories of working on them.
Maybe Husky lives near you Manjo!
I live in Central WI.
Oren
wrote:
>Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it
>running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb
>intake?
?????? WD-40 is fuel....
Never heard of this method and would not use it.
S. Barker
jacko
pheeh...@gmail.com
> Just asking, but isn't WD-40 kerosene?"Oren" <O...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
>
> news:hj7q04h7to89lqgs5...@4ax.com...
>
> > On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:27:41 GMT, Husky <jmg14...@frontiernet.net>
> > wrote:
>
> >>Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it
> >>running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb
> >>intake?
>
> > ?????? WD-40 is fuel....
>
> > Never heard of this method and would not use it
You can safely spray WD-40 to run an engine because its propellant is
propane gas...and the oil lubricates the upper cylinder.
All mechanics know of this...and most use it!
Manjo
I live in eastern MA. I also agree with Husky 99%. I went to the leaf
blower manufacturer and they only had a four-page assembly manual with
no engine information or details. I went to B&S's web site and then
called Customer Service. I was told by B&S the only repair manual
they offered (to sell me and I bought) was the "Single Cylinder "L"
Head (built after 1981) Repair manual". That B&S manual covers plenty
of different models and carbs including mine, but it contains no
"principals of operation", or explanation of how any of the carbs
actually work. My carb experience is limited to motorcycle float
carbs, but I was lucky enough at the time to find an expert forum that
filled in the bike’s official service manual carb blank spots.
And that's why I came to this forum. I needed to fill in the big
blanks and have been very lucky to learn from all of you and to read
Husky's carb tutorial that has filled in a lot of carb blanks, also.
IF ANYONE knows of a manual or web site that has an operational
description of my carb or a similar small engine diaphragm carb, I'm
more than happy and willing to read it and learn.
(The 1% I don't agree with is the implication that I am lazy, stupid,
and cheap. I work hard to gather any and all information and data
available, I’m of fair intelligence, and have and will spend money to
buy tools and manuals to help and guide me to fix engines and
appliances I don't feel it's necessary to pay someone $50 an hour to
repair for me. To imply otherwise is unfair and demeaning.)
Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? ---- YES,
IT"S a little wet.
Can you keep it running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting
fluid) into the carb
intake? ---- No, the starter fluid will NOT keep the engine running,
but will start it. But I will try WD-40.
Have you tried running the engine with a spark tester in the
plug wire? ---- No. I lost my spark tester and I'm buying a
replacement.
With the tank half full, does the inner reservoir fill up after a few
pulls of the rope?
----- I DON’T KNOW. The tank-top carb covers any possible view of the
reservoir. IS there some trick to looking into the reservoir with the
carb in place??
Are the little "flaps" cut in the diaphragm curling up or laying flat
against the side face of the carb? Did you use a new diaphragm, or
just reinstall the old one? ----- THE FLAPS are laying flat against
the carb body. YES, I did buy and install a new diaphragm, and when I
blew out the carb body, the diaphragm and cover were OFF the carb and
not damaged.
Thanks,
Manjo
Manjo
pheeh...@gmail.com
You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at
the same time.
This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. It is an amazing
design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and
them put him back in the asylum.
Oren
This thread is the first time I've read about using WD-40. Never
observed a mechanic use it, but rather they used carb / starting
fluid.
Thanks.
(G)
pheeh...@gmail.com
Starting fluid (ether) is never used by anyone who knows their stuff...
2-cycles (or even 4) are likely to blow-up in your face!
Too much carb cleaner will dry the cylinder wall and thin the oil.
Oren
>On Apr 22, 1:48 pm, Oren <O...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>> On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 04:58:18 -0700 (PDT), pheeh.z...@gmail.com wrote:
>> >On Apr 22, 6:50 am, "jacko" <jo...@nf.sympatico.ca> wrote:
>> >> Just asking, but isn't WD-40 kerosene?"Oren" <O...@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
>>
>> >>news:hj7q04h7to89lqgs5...@4ax.com...
>>
>> >> > On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:27:41 GMT, Husky <jmg14...@frontiernet.net>
>> >> > wrote:
>>
>> >> >>Have you checked to see if the plug is wet when it dies? Can you keep it
>> >> >>running by spraying fuel (use WD-40, not starting fluid) into the carb
>> >> >>intake?
>>
>> >> > ?????? WD-40 is fuel....
>>
>> >> > Never heard of this method and would not use it
>>
>> >You can safely spray WD-40 to run an engine because its propellant is
>> >propane gas...and the oil lubricates the upper cylinder.
>> >All mechanics know of this...and most use it!
>>
>> This thread is the first time I've read about using WD-40. Never
>> observed a mechanic use it, but rather they used carb / starting
>> fluid.
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> (G)
>
>Starting fluid (ether) is never used by anyone who knows their stuff...
Perhaps they should stop selling it :)
>2-cycles (or even 4) are likely to blow-up in your face!
I would use it on a four stroke any time I work on a fuel starved
engine.
>Too much carb cleaner will dry the cylinder wall and thin the oil.
If one uses that much; to dry cylinder walls, etc. then they need to
re-evaluated their usage.
Or, change the oil :-)
pheeh...@gmail.com
engine."
Key phrase here: knows their stuff. 8^)
Husky
WD-40 is a highly flammable petroleum distillate which contains oil.
Starting fluid contains no lubrication and consists primarily of ether
and flammable gases. In fact, it will wash any remaining lubrication off
of the cylinder walls.
I can and have even test run two stroke engines for short periods on
WD-40 without damage, though I don't recommend doing it very long. It
tends to foul the plugs due to the incomplete combustion.
Manjo
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks. Designing carbs has to be one of the black arts. Trying to
understand them without all the documentation is a real challenge.
I'll just keep plugging along. Since I can start it and keep it
running at 1/2 choke until it warms up, then go to no choke, I'm good
for the short term.
Again, my thanks to everyone here for their input. When I get this
fixed so I have full power and it starts with one pull as it did when
I bought it, I'll post whatever I found.
Manjo
Oren
wrote:
I learned something here about using WD-40, so I'll try this if I ever
need to spray a carb intake in the future.
When I have used starting fluid, in the past it has been one or two
squirts into the carb. I don't flood the thing, just try to get the
engine fired up. I don't have a can now, but WD-40 I have :)
Oren
wrote:
>> > Manjo
>>
>> You're doing a fine job of trying to isolate the problem and learn at
>> the same time.
>> This carb is NOT the easiest to understand. It is an amazing
>> design...but it's almost like they got one person to design this...and
>> them put him back in the asylum.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>Thanks. Designing carbs has to be one of the black arts. Trying to
>understand them without all the documentation is a real challenge.
>
>I'll just keep plugging along. Since I can start it and keep it
>running at 1/2 choke until it warms up, then go to no choke, I'm good
>for the short term.
>
One more thing I can think of is, if the plug is the right heat range
(correct plug number) and the gap is set properly.
As to carbs.. it's fun when they run and you still have ten parts left
in the kit box :-))
pheeh...@gmail.com
> On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:17:11 -0700 (PDT), Manjo <manjo1...@gmail.com>
Especially with the price of gas as it is...people will try to use old
gas and not have any luck starting.
Drain the gas if you haven't done it last fall and use fresh gas.
(even Sta-Bil has its limitations)
pheeh...@gmail.com
> I have a leaf blower that uses a 5 hp B&S "L" head engine. The carb
> is pretty simple with a choke butterfly, throttle butterfly, and
> rubber diaphragm fuel pump. The carb sits on top of the fule tank.
> The carb has no bowl. The governor linakges are clean and the
> governor appears to be working fine.
>
> The leaf blower was starting to run poorly last fall. This spring it
> started right up, but after4-5 seconds after running smoothly at
> proper speed, it will slowly loose rpms and finally stop after 15-20
> seconds.
>
> I have cleaned the pick-up tube, replaced the carburetor diaphragm
> fuel pump along with the gaskets between the carb and the fuel tank,
> and the gasket between the carb and the engine. I've also
> disconnected the engine ground wire that normally kills the engine
> when the throttle is tuned full off. But after doing all this the
> engine still will not stay running for more than 30 - 40 seconds.
>
> Thanks in advance for any tips, suggestions, or coments.
>
alas...our thread is lost amid putrid spam!
Manjo
> On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 12:17:11 -0700 (PDT), Manjo <manjo1...@gmail.com>
>
> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I'm using the spec Champion spark plug at spec gap and I used 2
different spec spark plugs (the last is brand new).
I'm now assuming and testing for a carb fuel flow problem. I've
ordered a new pick-up tube and a spring for the idle screw just to be
on the safe side. I have turned the idle screw to several different
setting with no starting improvement. I'm going to pull the carb
today for the last time and take off all the rubber parts and soak it
in Berrymans Carb Cleaner (I have a gallon can with a screen tray for
dipping). I did use spray carb cleaner a week ago that "seemed" to
help. So I'm thinking a 3-5 minute soak should get any crap and
varnish that might still be in the circuits.
As for old gas, I have removed, drained and flushed the tank already
and adding freshest gas provides little improvement. The leaf blower
seems to run better with 2-3 ounces of Berrymans Carb Fluid mixed with
a full tank of gas. Even with the carb cleaner fluid it still takes
2-3 starts before the engine keeps running on 1/2 choke and then after
9-12 minutes I can turn the choke off completely, but the engine does
run a lot longer than 2 weeks ago.
(I have been using WD-40, but I haven't needed it the last couple of
days. WD-40 doesn't make starting that much easier, but reading about
all the down sides of starter fluid in the earlier posts makes it
easier to accept a little harder starting using WD-40 when I have to).
Best regards,
Manjo
Oren
wrote:
>On Apr 23, 4:50 pm, Oren <O...@127.0.0.1> wrote:
The times I have soaked a carb I always soaked them overnight or 24
hours. The auto parts store used to sell these kits, with the strainer
(tells how long it's been:). It was branded/named GUNK. Drop the carb
in and clean the next day. Wash rinsed with water and blown out with
an air hose.
Remove jets, screws, etc and drop all the parts into the strainer for
a GOOD soak.
pheeh...@gmail.com
hours. The auto parts store used to sell these kits, with the strainer
(tells how long it's been:). It was branded/named GUNK. Drop the carb
in and clean the next day. Wash rinsed with water and blown out with
an air hose.
Remove jets, screws, etc and drop all the parts into the strainer for
a GOOD soak."
Oren...I remember rebuilding my 66 Chev Impala 2-barrel and using
lacquer thinner for the soak!
George
wrote:
>On Apr 19, 11:00 am, dpb <n...@non.net> wrote:
>> Manjo wrote:
>> > I have a leaf blower that uses a 5 hp B&S "L" head engine. ...
>> ...
>> > The leaf blower was starting to run poorly last fall. This spring it
>> > started right up, but after4-5 seconds after running smoothly at
>> > proper speed, it will slowly loose rpms and finally stop after 15-20
>> > seconds.
>>
>> > I have cleaned the pick-up tube, replaced the carburetor diaphragm
>> > fuel pump along with the gaskets between the carb and the fuel tank,
>> > and the gasket between the carb and the engine. I've also
>> > disconnected the engine ground wire that normally kills the engine
>> > when the throttle is tuned full off. But after doing all this the
>> > engine still will not stay running for more than 30 - 40 seconds.
>>
>> > Thanks in advance for any tips, suggestions, or coments.
>>
>> I've not read the rest of the thread but noted you were apparently still
>> searching --
>>
>> Anybody suggested checking the exhaust screen (I'm assuming it has one)
>> for C deposits? Sounds like it could be clogged w/ buildup which will
>> cause such symptoms...
>>
>> --- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>The exhaust has not been checked. I did put my hand near the exhaust
>canister and I could feel puffs of air as the engine ran at normal
>rpm. But now that you mention this, the air pressure felt a little
>low or soft. I'll pull the can and check it today. Manjo
Really, take a good look at it. I had a string trimmer with similar
start/die problems, that I spent weeks on. Rebuilt the fuel pump, etc.
Then I cleaned the 'spark suppressor' screen, and it's run perfectly
since.
I've since been told that running small engines at less than WOT will
load them up with carbon.
George
pheeh...@gmail.com
> On Sun, 20 Apr 2008 05:41:16 -0700 (PDT), Manjo <manjo1...@gmail.com>
Geo, this is a 4-cycle, I know...the thread is a little long!
S. Barker
ever bought clog WITH the proper mix and all day WOT use.
steve
"George" <gbec...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:kipf14l0rjqbmi0oo...@4ax.com...