Help with water line
stryped
and frost free hydrant. I bould the coiled black polyethelene NSF
rated 3/4 tube. My intention was to place a piece of 1 1/4 inch
conduit through my block wall and run the pipe through that so as to
avoid any sharp edges in the block then lay the rest of the pipe
directly in the ditch. Well, I did not realize how easily the stuff
kinked. I slightly kincked it going through the conduit. I quit right
there as it was getting dark. Will I have trouble with it kinking as I
un roll it in the ditch? Is it ok to have a slight kink? Will this
stuff be ok once it is in the ground?
Also in the garage a played with the fittings and the barbs will not
go in by hand. If I heated it with a torch, to the point of it
catching on fire I could slide it on but will this dammage the pipe or
cause a leak?
This is my first try at working with the stuff and I did not realize
how fragile it is. WIll it kink when I fill in dirt and tamp it?
Any help is appreciated!
Colbyt
"stryped" <stry...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:19f23276-0525-447b...@k19g2000yqc.googlegroups.com...
A good warm day helps a lot when working with this stuff.
I would cut out the kink and put in a coupler using SS clamps to secure it
at both ends.
Moderate heat or better yet some liquid dish detergent helps with sliding in
the fittings.
When back filling make sure there are no rocks in the dirt. A load of sand
for $20 is cheap insurance here.
The good news is that one I installed in 1969 is still going strong.
Colbyt
KC
I installed some from the house to my detached shop. Lasted about 5
years and after the 4th split I replaced it with schedule 40 pvc.
roger...@aol.com
you got 100 psi rating get the 160 or 200 rated pipe it is a bear to
roll out in cold weather but it will be worth it in the long haul
should last 30 years do not put any couplings in ground you are just
asking for a leak make one continuious run i have been doing this work
for 25 years we warrenty all our work for 5 years parts and labor good
luck if i can answer any questions call me 1-800-935 -5654 rogers and
sons well service thanks scott rogers
hal...@aol.com
little digging, and entire run has mechanical protection.
the PVC type tends to split over time
use 3 inch PVC schedule 40 as conduit its cheap and strong
Jim Elbrecht
-snip-
>you got 100 psi rating get the 160 or 200 rated pipe it is a bear to
>roll out in cold weather but it will be worth it in the long haul
>should last 30 years do not put any couplings in ground you are just
>asking for a leak make one continuious run i have been doing this work
>for 25 years we warrenty all our work for 5 years parts and labor good
>luck if i can answer any questions call me 1-800-935 -5654 rogers and
>sons well service thanks scott rogers
I'm with Scott. If it is real cold where you are then fill the new
plastic with hot tap water.
Compared to the money, sweat and PITA of the whole job, getting a new
piece of pipe at this point is pretty cheap insurance that you're not
doing it all again in the spring-- or next winter when it is 10below
zero.
Jim
tra...@optonline.net
It probably kinked because it was too cold. I've used the standard
product for irrigation wells with no problems. However it may be
worth it to get the higher grade product. Obviously this type of
pipe works and is reliable. It's used here in NJ for all the
connections on new homes between main and house.
Carefully heating it with a propane torch works wonders to get the
barb fittings on. You might want to experiment on a piece before
starting on a critical section so you get to know how much heat to
apply. Make sure to double clamp each connection.
stryped
It is not that cold. I live in Southern kentucky and my ditch is below
the frost line. I plan on using foam pipe insulation also more for a
little protection. I have no way of avoiding the fittings in the
ground though. My run is 200 feet and the pipe came in 100 foot
sections. I bought the steel connectors instead of the plastic. ALso
the crimp connectors and bought the special tool. I also bout the
screw in stainless connectors. I figured I would use two connectors,
one of each type ont he fittings.
Would it be stupid to go ahead and run this line but alos beside it to
run a regular pvc line just in case there is a problem in the future?
Stormin Mormon
ditch. I'd suggest to run anything else you can imagine,
that might be needed. The parallel PVC sounds good. Or, a
redundant line of water tubing. Also, consider laying in
some electrical wire (UF, please, not romex). And possibly a
couple length of telephone wire, or 75 ohm cable for
television or cable internet.
--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
"stryped" <stry...@yahoo.com>
wrote in message news:4527806a-ce1c-4170-aa92-
stryped
<cayoung61**spambloc...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Since you have gone through all the effort to dig a 200 foot
> ditch. I'd suggest to run anything else you can imagine,
> that might be needed. The parallel PVC sounds good. Or, a
> redundant line of water tubing. Also, consider laying in
> some electrical wire (UF, please, not romex). And possibly a
> couple length of telephone wire, or 75 ohm cable for
> television or cable internet.
>
> --
> Christopher A. Young
> Learn more about Jesus
> www.lds.org
> .
>
> wrote in message news:4527806a-ce1c-4170-aa92-
>
> Would it be stupid to go ahead and run this line but alos
> beside it to
> run a regular pvc line just in case there is a problem in
> the future?
As far as the problem with straightening out the poly, would using a
hair dryer on the pipe in my garage help to straighten in out before I
put it in the ditch or will this weaken the pipe?
stryped
>
> - Show quoted text -
Also, would using pipe dope on the barbed fittings before the black
poly pipe goes on be a good or bad idea?
hal...@aol.com
<cayoung61**spambloc...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Since you have gone through all the effort to dig a 200 foot
> ditch. I'd suggest to run anything else you can imagine,
> that might be needed. The parallel PVC sounds good. Or, a
> redundant line of water tubing. Also, consider laying in
> some electrical wire (UF, please, not romex). And possibly a
> couple length of telephone wire, or 75 ohm cable for
> television or cable internet.
>
> --
> Christopher A. Young
> Learn more about Jesus
> �www.lds.org
> .
>
> wrote in message news:4527806a-ce1c-4170-aa92-
>
> Would it be stupid to go ahead and run this line but alos
> beside it to
> run a regular pvc line just in case there is a problem in
> the future?
heck run a couple EMPTY conduits, one never knows what they might want
to add in the future,.
If OP were ME, I wouldnt splice 2 pieces under any circumstances or
bury a once kinked line!!!
I would run a 3 inch PVC sewer pipe, and inside that install a single
PEX line, it comes in 1000 foot rolls.
PEX is dirt cheap and easy to work with.
Bob F
Not if the can doesn't say it's for that material. Make a thick solution of hand
dish soap. You light be able to tap in some of the fittings with a wooden board
or rubber hammer.
I'd question the use of steel fittings too. Unless they are stainless, that's
likely to be the failure point. It might pay to mark the fitting location before
you bury it so you can find it if theree is a problem later.
Colbyt
It is not that cold. I live in Southern kentucky and my ditch is below
the frost line. I plan on using foam pipe insulation also more for a
A licensed plumber also here in Kentucky insisted on using a short section
of copper pipe with double SS clamps on each end because he said our that
was better for our soil conditions than the galvanized.
This was to repair a backhoe break and not a failure. That line has been in
place for over 23 years.
I did think the stuff was sold in 250 foot rolls. Did you call Brocks in
Lexington or Corbin?
Colbyt