Is that it?
jdev...@gate.net
0 for 2010? So sad.
obhack: Lots of script kiddies attempting to open /setup.php on my web
server. Seemed like a great place to put a script to log the IP addresses
so I can break their routing (my less than elegant means of banning them
from my network).
<DubiousDistinction>
Will I be THE LAST person to post to this group????
</DubiousDistinction>
<Political Rant>
Meet me here when the Feds censor the Web.
</Political Rant>
B. James DeVries
Horn
> Will I be THE LAST person to post to this group????
No.
--
Remove +STRING to reply by email
Eli the Bearded
> jdev...@gate.net wrote:
> > Will I be THE LAST person to post to this group????
> No.
You are missing your ObHack.
So I guess I should add one of my own.
Recently I've been rennovating the main bathroom in my house. The
last rennovation was some twenty to thirty years ago, done by my
father-in-law. Neither of us are plumbers.
So the teenager stripped the room down. Took out the vanity, pulled
out the old toilet, stripped the floor to the sub-floor. Then he
put in new underlayment and tiled and grouted the the room. So far,
so good.
Then I went to put in the new toilet. There was a problem. This is
how the drain is supposed to look:
,-,
,/' _ '\,
.' /'D'\ '.
+. /NDRAI\ .+
| (NDRAIND) |
+' \RAIND/ '+
'. \.N./ .'
'\, ~ ./'
'-'
The two notches on the side are used to slip the bolts in to attach
the toilet. The drain on the floor is ninety degree rotated from that.
I quized the teenager about how the previous toilet was attached but
didn't get any good answer. I'm suspecting it was to the previous
underlayment, but I'm not sure.
In any case, the new underlayment doesn't extend far enough to use,
and the floor is tiled now, so I can't attach stuff to the subfloor
or underlayment without pulling out tile.
I went to my local hardware store and looked at what they had for
this sort of problems. What I found was a plastic "spacer" ring
exactly like the shape of the top of the drain pipe, with four
mounting holes. Cost is $3.50, so I buy it.
Well, it's not big enough to use screws to attach the spacer ring
to the floor, so I mark where the spacer holes are on the flange of
the cast iron drain pipe. Then I drill those holes out.
First I try to glue the spacer down with epoxy through the mounting
holes on the spacer and the holes I made in the drain. It seems to
work, but as soon as I tighten the nuts on the toilet bolts I feel it
pull free.
I pull out the toilet, scrape off the wax seal and then the epoxy.
Next I try pop rivets, using ones I have on hand. It seems to
work, but as soon as I tighten the nuts on the toilet bolts I feel it
pull free.
I pull out the toilet, scrape off the wax seal and cold chisel out
the rivets. The counter-sunk holes in the plastic don't offer enough
grip. Back to the hardware store. I need a new wax seal (they run $2
each, but I have no more on hand). I also get a new spacer ring and
the largest pop rivets they have (3/8" diameter, maybe 1/2" length).
I need to enlarge the holes in the flange to fit these rivets, but
that's easy enough.
Now I put the rivets in with a washer so they won't pull through the
counter-sunk holes and they grip the cast iron very securely. I check
by really pulling on the spacer before putting the toilet on. Very
solidly attached.
Of course, I find out that the cast iron pipe itself has some play,
but I'm not about to try to deal with that. Toilet goes in, bolts
get tightened. Life moves on.
Elijah
------
3x wax seal ($6), 2x spacer ($7), 1 pack rivets ($3), DIY priceless
pe...@nospam.demon.co.uk
jdev...@gate.net writes:
> I must admit I don't look here often, but did alt.hackers just go
> 0 for 2010? So sad.
Not quite -- there was a post back in April...
obhack: a bit lame, but here goes anyway. We have one of those
fridges built into a kitchen cupboard and the hinges both on the
fridge itself and the wooden covering door were tired, such that
certain family members would leave the door partially open :-(
I figured that assistance from a weight attached to a length of cord
over a door-mounted pulley with the other end attached to the body of
the enclosing cupboard would do the trick, with the weight rising and
falling between the two doors. However (a) there was no room for a
pulley and (b) there was only a 3/8" gap between the doors for the
weight.
(a) was solved by using a simple eye-hook, and (b) was solved by
building the weight from a 4"x 6" piece of thin aluminium and covering
it on both sides with adhesive lead weights used for balancing alloy
automobile wheels. The result was a weight getting on for a kilogram
and only about 1/4" thick -- the system works fine! (Yes, I know I
could have used a lump of 1/4" steel plate, but didn't have one of
those to hand...)
> <DubiousDistinction>
> Will I be THE LAST person to post to this group????
> </DubiousDistinction>
I don't think so...
Pete
--
"We have not inherited the earth from our ancestors,
we have borrowed it from our descendants."