Need info on guitar painting

Jason

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Dec 11, 1996, 3:00:00 AM12/11/96

to

I'm going to paint my strat over christmas, but I'm not quite sure on how
to get the best results. If anybody has any pointers on sanding, paint,
finishing, etc... it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Ryan Mellott mell...@mail.juniata.edu

Franz Kafka

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Dec 11, 1996, 3:00:00 AM12/11/96

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Jason wrote:
>
> I'm going to paint my strat over christmas, but I'm not quite sure on how
> to get the best results. If anybody has any pointers on sanding, paint,
> finishing, etc... it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I've painted two guitars with automobile body paint (PPG to be exact)
and had excellent results. Make sure you get clear as well to go over
the color and buff, BUFF, BUFF!

wes

Coy Wylie

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Dec 12, 1996, 3:00:00 AM12/12/96

to Jason

This is a big job. Before attacking it, read
http://www.harmony-central.com:80/Guitar/Faqs/faq/faq.refinishing.txt

Jason wrote:
>
> I'm going to paint my strat over christmas, but I'm not quite sure on how
> to get the best results. If anybody has any pointers on sanding, paint,
> finishing, etc... it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
>

> Ryan Mellott mell...@mail.juniata.edu

faq.refinishing.txt

r.woudstra

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Dec 13, 1996, 3:00:00 AM12/13/96

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On Wed, 11 Dec 1996 21:00:08 GMT, "Jason" <jason...@penn.com> wrote:

>I'm going to paint my strat over christmas, but I'm not quite sure on how
>to get the best results. If anybody has any pointers on sanding, paint,
>finishing, etc... it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
>
>Ryan Mellott mell...@mail.juniata.edu

I presonally wouldn't repaint an expensive/very good sounding guitar
myself without some experience. There is a risk that you fill the
pores of the wood and thereby destroy it's tone. But in case you still
want to try I have few quotes from an FAQ (mail me for the rest). I
hope this is of any use to you :
------------------------------------------

GUITAR BUILDERS FAQ
Part I, Electric Guitars

Version 1.7
25 March 1996

------------------------------------------

(...)

X. The Finish

A. How do I stain a guitar?

Staining the guitar is a complex issue. Refer to the books
and videos in the Appendix for more information on staining.

B. What kind of paint should I use for colors?

You can use an acrylic automotive lacquer or a
nitrocellulose lacquer. Check your local automotive or
furniture paint shops, or the parts suppliers in the
appendix for colors and availability.

NOTE: Do NOT mix the two types of lacquer on a single
paint job (acrylic & nitrocellulose).

Also, some materials my be illegal to use in your area, so
take to care to be aware of any environmental factors.

C. What is a sample finishing schedule?

The following is a sample finishing schedule taken for
Stewart-MacDonald's catalog. This is only one sample and
there may be many other ways of doing the finish. Research
this subject as you see fit.

This schedule is for nitrocellulose lacquer and should not
be used with other finishing media. (Note: do NOT use
acrylic lacquers with nitrocellulose lacquers)

WOOD PREPARATION
Sand surface down to #220
or #320 grit smoothness.
|
______________________|_________________
| |
POROUS WOOD NON-POROUS WOOD
(Rosewood, Mahogany, Ash, (Maple, Spruce,
Basswood, Walnut, paduak) Alder, Poplar, Ebony)
| |
| |
STAIN (OPTIONAL) STAIN (OPTIONAL)
(Water based anilines, (Water based anilines,
color-tone stains) color-tone stains)
| |
| |
WASH COAT (OPTIONAL) |
(Lacquer, sanding sealer, |
or shellac) |
| |
| |
PASTE WOOD FILLER |
(Natural for light woods, |
medium brown for dark woods) |
|________________________________________|
| |
SEALER/PRIMER (OPTIONAL) |
(Lacquer, sanding sealer, or
or shellac) |
|________________________________________|
|
COLOR COATS (OPTIONAL)
(Tinted clear lacquer, shaded
lacquers, opaque lacquers,
6 coats)
|
|
WET SAND #320 grit
|
|
COLOR COATS
(Tinted clear lacquer, shaded
lacquers, opaque lacquers,
3 coats)
|
|
WET SAND #400 grit
|
|
COLOR COATS
(Tinted clear lacquer, shaded
lacquers, opaque lacquers,
3 coats)
|
|
WET SAND #600 grit
|
|
CLEAR COATS
(Clear lacquer, 4-10 coats)
|
|
WET SAND #1000 grit
|
|
POLISH WITH SOFT CLOTH
AND POLISHING COMPOUND
(Use circular motion)
|
|
POLISH WITH WAX POLISH

NOTE: This is only one possibility of many. Your results may
vary. Refer to one of the books in the Appendix for more
information on finishes, such as sunbursts, etc.

====================================
= Part 5 - Pitfalls and Problems =
====================================

C. Trouble with painting area.
[Contributed by: wy...@aol.com]

I discovered one problem with my work area right away when
finishing my first guitar. Like many, I used my garage to
build my guitars. Well, you can imagine the dust and debris
that flys around after sawing, sanding, and routing all day.

Even after waiting for the dust to settle, there's the
problem of ventilation and the smell. Also, if you have a
freshly painted guitar in the garage, where are you going to
work on the next one? I had to stop building for weeks
while this guitar cured.

I have since farmed out the painting process to a friend so
I can just build.

D. Paint build-up
[Contributed by: wy...@aol.com]

When finishing a guitar you must take care to prevent paint
build-up around the screw holes. What can happen is, if there
is enough paint overhanging into the hole, the paint may chip
when you assemble the guitar (I saw this first hand unfortunately).

One way to prevent this is to plug the holes before spraying.
A clay or putty of some other soft material that is easily
removed could be used.

If the problem already exists you could redrill the hole to
clean out the paint or scrape it away, but this only works
to a small degree. You would rather prevent the problem by
plugging the holes or cleaning them out after each set of coats
to limit the build up.

It is also important to use a sealer of some kind to prevent
moisture from getting into the wood and causing it to expand and
then crack the paint.

*** Wood/Wood Finishing: ***

(The following are available from Stewart-MacDonald's Guitar
Shop Supply)

ENCYCLOPEDIA OF WOOD
by Aidan Walker
"A directory of more than 150 of the world's most popular
and beautiful timbers. Samples of each species are shown in
color, with information on geographical distribution,
physical properties (including density, stiffness,
workability, and bending strength) and uses. Filled with
beautiful color photography and wood lore." [192 pages,
hard cover, $29.95]
COMMENTS:

THE WOOD FINISHING BOOK
by Michael Dresdner
"A design engineer at Martin Guitars and a contributor to
Fine Woodworking magazine, Dresdner also has over 20 years
of experience in finishing trades. He offers practical
solutions to wood finishing problems, and reveals what's
actually inside brand name finish formulations.
Preparation, coloring, application, and finish repairs
are also discussed." [213 pages, soft cover, $24.95]
COMMENTS:

UNDERSTANDING WOOD FINISHING
by Bob Flexner
"Exceptionally well organized and illustrated, this book
will help you solve most finishing problems. Based on an
extensive knowledge of the chemistry of finishing materials,
it features comprehensive coverage of traditional finishes
and touch-ups, and new water-based finishes too. Highly
recommended." [310 pages, hard cover, $27.95]
COMMENTS:

UNDERSTANDING WOOD
by Bruce Hoadley
"A wealth of scientific knowledge about wood, written for
the individual woodworker. Essential for the serious
luthier. Explain species identification and
characteristics; the effects of moisture; drying your own
wood; strength properties; effects of machining, joining,
bending, and finishing; lumber grading; processing and
terminology." [256 pages, hard cover, $31.95]
COMMENTS:

WOOD FINISHER'S HANDBOOK
by Sam Allen
"A guide to the preparation and finishing of new wood, and
the repair of previously finished wood surfaces. Over 150
photographs and drawings demonstrate modern and traditional
techniques. Allen explains the use of finishing tools
(brushes, spray equipment, papers and scrapers), staining
and filling, topcoats, colors, rubbing and antiquing."
[160 pages, soft cover, $12.95]
COMMENTS:

WOOD FINISHING WITH GEORGE FRANK
by George Frank
"A step-by-step guide covering every aspect of wood
finishing, from stains, dyes and chemical treatments and
waxes, varnishes, and oils. Over 80 color photos illustrate
the effects of various finishing media and techniques. An
extensive section on french polishing is featured." [144
pages, soft cover, $14.95]
COMMENTS:

============================================

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From: aguya...@aol.com (Aguyathome)
Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar
Subject: Re: Refinishing Guitar --- Advice Needed (Again)
Date: 2 Aug 1996 01:04:03 -0400
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Sanding is not a thing of time(you ask if a week of sanding is enough)
butrather that of smoothness. I use only nitro-cellulose laquers(they
are hard to come by, I have an account at a professional woodfinishing
store, but places such as Stewart-MacDonald and Luthier's Merchantile
can ship these to you). Use a non-grain raising stain in your color of
choice and then follow with sanding sealer. Your finishes smoothness
comes from building up a few coats of sanding sealer(a thick laquer
undercoat) and sanding in between coats until you see no hint of the
wood's natural grain when you reflect light off of the surface. Be
very careful not to "cut through" your stain during sanding because
doing so would be disastrous and you'll have to start over. So far as
"faking" a maple-type flame, I don't know what to tell you. After the
sanding sealer, build up a few coats 4~6 should be more than
sufficient of a good clear laquer and remember to lightly sand any
coat that has sat for more than about a half a day to ensure that it
has something to bind to(the grooves provided by a light sanding
provide an excellent surface for subsequent coats to "grab"). I then,
after allowing a couple of few days of final drying time(I'm in no
hurry) wet sand with 600 grit and then "color sand" with
1000 grit to remove most of the sanding marks left by the 600. Most
people just go to buffing out the finish after the first step, it's
just a personal preferance more than anything. I then follow the
whole thing up with 3M Finnesse-It II automotive finish polish and
WOW! A mirror like finish that you'll be proud to display to all of
your friends.

Jeff Deasey
Deasey's Luthier Services(DLS)
Ontario, California
P.S. If you ever have any questions, please feel free to e-mail me if
I
can be of any help.
.

R.Woudstra
______________________________________________________
"mailto:Xr.wo...@mail.uva.nlX"
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-------------------------------------------------------