Pedal Power Supply vs. Daisy Chain
adam79
can connect to other 9V pedals that are powered from the first pedal in
the chain (in my case, the TU-2). What is the advantage of buying a
pedal power supply (i.e. The DC Brick) to using the Daisy chain? Is it
that it acts as a surge protector, to prevent overloads and shorts?
Thanks, and Happy New Year,
-Adam
Master Betty
"adam79" <ada...@toast.net> wrote in message
news:iIidnZJU67Z_saHW...@posted.toastnet...
Daisy chains tap out. Pedals can crap out if you use more than a couple at a
time. For just 2 or 3 pedals, probably no problem, but for a board you need
a PS.
IUnknown
Well, the TU-2 is fine for a couple of pedals... but it depends on the
pedals.
The TU-2 is capable of allowing for up to 200ma of current. So, as
long as the daisy-chained pedals you are connecting will not exceed
that total draw, then you should be OK.
Different pedals have different current draw.... for instance, my OD-3
draws about 18ma of current when active. However, my DD-5 consumes
around 130ma.... and my digitech digital reverb (crap unit anyway) is
something like 300ma.... I could safely connect the DD5 and OD-3 ...
but not the digital reverb....
The bottom line is that you need to stick within the limits...
anything over that... and you need to get a seperate pedal power unit.
Kevin Collins
One big issue I have with the daisy chain ones is that pedal placement becomes
an issue. The distance between the power connectors makes it kind of tricky. On
the "brick" style, you have a separate power line for each device - much nicer!
I own:
1 Visual Sound OneSpot - ok
1 GodLyke Power-all - ok but a bit noisy
2 Dunlop DC Bricks - really nice
1 Voodoo Labs Pedal Power II - nice, but bulky
I highly recommend the DC Brick - they are small, and very reliable.
The PP II has a couple of advantages over the brick:
- it has some flexibility in selecting output voltage
- it has a "courtesy" AC plug
- every power tap is completely isolated
The isolation is good to help keep pedals with "noizy power" from causing noize
in other pedals. Also, some pedals (particulary ones from Voodoo Lab -
surprise!) require isolated power due to the way they are grounded.
The PP II is good if you need those bonus features, but its about twice the
size of the brick and much heavier...
Hope this helps.
Kevin
RichL
> I highly recommend the DC Brick - they are small, and very reliable.
Seconded.
>
> The PP II has a couple of advantages over the brick:
>
> - it has some flexibility in selecting output voltage
> - it has a "courtesy" AC plug
> - every power tap is completely isolated
The Brick allows both 9 V and 18 V outputs.
> The isolation is good to help keep pedals with "noizy power" from
> causing noize in other pedals.
If that's the case and your "noizy power" pedal is engaged, noise will
still propagate down the signal chain even though the power supplies are
isolated.
Kevin Collins
> Kevin Collins <spamt...@toomuchfiction.com> wrote:
>
>> I highly recommend the DC Brick - they are small, and very reliable.
>
> Seconded.
>>
>> The PP II has a couple of advantages over the brick:
>>
>> - it has some flexibility in selecting output voltage
>> - it has a "courtesy" AC plug
>> - every power tap is completely isolated
>
> The Brick allows both 9 V and 18 V outputs.
Yes, good point!
>> The isolation is good to help keep pedals with "noizy power" from
>> causing noize in other pedals.
>
> If that's the case and your "noizy power" pedal is engaged, noise will
> still propagate down the signal chain even though the power supplies are
> isolated.
True, its noize will stay in the signal chain. However, if you have pedals in a
loop switcher (as I do) they are always engaged (but possibly out of the signal
chain). A pedal with noizy power will make other pedals noizier even when its
OUT of the signal path, unless the power drops are isolated. In my experience,
this is more prone to happen with the daisy-chain adapters...
Kevin
adam79
>
> The Brick allows both 9 V and 18 V outputs.
>
>
I'm probably gonna buy a DC Brick. I have a couple DOD pedals (two
FX10s). They run on a 9volt battery, but they have an odd adapter plug,
and on the back it says "For A.C. operation: Use a 10 volt D.C. negative
ground power supply." Are there adapters that you can use with the Brick
for this particular pedals, or ones like it with odd adapter inputs (and
power requirements)?
Thanks for all the help, and Happy New Years!
-Adam
Kevin Collins
I think the DOD pedals use the adapters that kind of look like a mini-phono
plug (1/8"), right? If so, I seem to remember there are 2 cables included for
that type. I think they might also include the 9-volt connecter adapters for
pedals that have no power adapter built-in, but its been a few years since I
bought mine and I don't use any DOD pedals... worst case, go to a GC and ask
them to let you see what's in the box :)
Kevin
RichL
Agreed.
RichL
Just watch the polarity, that's the thing that'll fry pedals if the
polarity's wrong.
The Brick conforms to the Boss standard (positive barrel, negative
center). I use batteries with my two DOD pedals, 'cause I was never
sure which way those adaptors that Kevin just mentioned work,
polarity-wise.
adam79
>
> Just watch the polarity, that's the thing that'll fry pedals if the
> polarity's wrong.
>
> The Brick conforms to the Boss standard (positive barrel, negative
> center). I use batteries with my two DOD pedals, 'cause I was never
> sure which way those adaptors that Kevin just mentioned work,
> polarity-wise.
>
>
I guess I'll have to contact DOD and find out. Also, the power input on
the DOD pedal does look like a 1/8" mini jack.
RichL
Just checked out my DOD FX-80. It has the mini-jack too. From your
earlier comment " D.C. negative ground power supply", I'd assume that
the sleeve of the mini-plug is the negative and the tip is the positive.
However, you still need to know whether the adaptor cable mates the
barrel on the Boss-like connector (which the Brick will establish as
positive) with the tip or the sleeve of the mini-plug.
Got a meter that'll measure continuity? It's easy. One probe from the
meter on the barrel of the adaptor cable, one to the tip of the
adaptor's mini-jack. If you get continuity, you're in business.
Arlowe
It is easy to check. The negative battery post will share ground with
the negative post of the power supply. get your ohmmeter out and match
the negative battery connector terminal with the negative of the PS
connector.
RichL
Yeah, I know, I'm just lazy, I guess, since I've only got the one pedal
that conforms to that convention.
Dave Curtis
<spamt...@toomuchfiction.com> wrote:
>I own:
>
> 1 GodLyke Power-all - ok but a bit noisy
I don't notice any noise with mine (except once when I shorted out a
tip), but all I can compare it to is the batteries that I was using
before ;o) They do offer all sorts of adapter/jumpers, so I'm able to
power up everything I have; even the old EH Bad Stone... (I got the 11
plug PowerAll)