Cheap stuff, Part Deux: Chardonnays

[Mark Lipton]

OK, this is the promised sequel to the Cheap Shiraz tasting last week.
As expected, the Chardonnays were a more appealing collection, on the whole.

1. nose: toasty oak, veering toward sulfur, a hint of pineapple beneath,
some heat
palate: OAK!, creamy pineapple

Ch. St. Jean 2003 Sonoma ($11.99)

2. n: pineapple, tropical fruit, a hint of vanilla oak (growing stronger
as it sat)
p: Chardonnay fruit, oak, full mouthfeel

Columbia Crest 2002 Grand Estate ($11.99)

3. n: Chablis-like, minerals, lemons, a hint of pineapple
p: minerals, pineapple, decent acidity

Fetzer 2003 Valley Oaks ($8.99)

4. n: closed in, hints of minerals and lemons
p: crisp entry, lemons, tart finish

Drouhin 2002 "La Foret" Bourgogne ($8.59)

5. n: iodine, minerals
p: lemon, iodine, oxidized character

Dom. Thibert 2000 Pouilly-Fuissé ($12.99)

6. n: spicy oak, stones
p: stones, floral notes, atypical flavors

Hess Select 2004 ($11.99)

7. n: lemon, tropical fruit, minerals
p: lemon, medium-full body, crisp finish

Cartlidge and Brown 2004 ($9.99)

8. n: CORKED, weird fruit beneath it
(not tasted)

Rodney Strong 2003 Sonoma ($10.99)

Of the collection, the Fetzer (!!) emerged as the top choice for its
lush mouthfeel, good fruit and well defined varietal character, but the
Hess Select and Cartlidge and Brown were hard on its heels. Jean and I
both agreed that any of the three would be fine for the event
(meanwhile, the prospective bride returned from Innsbruck today
proclaiming that Grüner Velitliner is her new favorite white wine -- I
told you that we were dealing with wine geeks!)

Your reporter in the trenches,
Mark Lipton