Food match? 1974 Inglenook Charbono
Bryan Gilmer
I recently took a trip to Tampa, Fla., where I was able to buy a perfectly
cellared 1974 Inglenook charbono from the wine shop affiliated with Bern's
Steak House (incredible place, wine-wise). The bottle was stored in a
temperature and humidity controlled warehouse for these 30 years (at about
50 degrees F). The case the bottle came in had this message on the side:
"New 750 ml size -- replaces fifth." The case was stored upside down to keep
the cork wet. The bottle looks like it was manufactured yesterday, it's been
so well stored.
I've heard good things about California charbonos, but I've never had one.
And I've certainly never had one 30 years old. So I need your advice: What
meal might showcase this wine? Also, I assume I shouldn't decant on the
assumption that the flavors will be muted and should be conserved. I welcome
any guidance you can provide.
--BG
Max Hauser
> ... I was able to buy a perfectly cellared 1974 Inglenook charbono
> from the wine shop affiliated with Bern's Steak House (incredible place,
> wine-wise). ...
>
> I've heard good things about California charbonos, but I've never
> had one. And I've certainly never had one 30 years old.
> So I need your advice: What meal might showcase this wine?
> Also, I assume I shouldn't decant on the assumption that the flavors
> will be muted and should be conserved. I welcome any guidance you
> can provide.
Speaking as no _sommelier_ but only an _amateur des vins_ I'll mention that
decanting wines of this age is often done to isolate the clear wine from the
sediment (concentrated in the bottom of the bottle because of your
thoughtfully having stood up the bottle for a couple of days before
opening). If the sediment or "mud" spreads into the wine, many people
dislike the flavor. However with a wine of age or limited experience, some
of the aroma and flavor may change rapidly too, so if you decant, plan to
serve it without any delay.
I tasted some Charbonos of that era and earlier (in the 1980s, from an
outstanding private cellar in California of a professor friend I've
mentioned on the wine newsgroup, at least in past decades) but not sure
about that specific Charbono. The varietal was taken seriously at a time
when a few very dedicated firms and winemakers were making very good,
serious California reds -- more serious, some might argue who've tasted
them, than most premium California reds today, though much less fashionable
back then.
Looking (unsuccessfully) for Charbono among my older tasting notes I saw a
note from one 1982 tasting from the same cellar:
1974 Ernie's [regular] Cabernet [made by Baxter, of Souverain]
1973 Ernie's [regular] Cabernet
1975 Ernie's North Coast Cabernet "Special selection"
1974 Ernie's North Coast Cabernet "Special selection"
1975 Sterling Cabernet [before purchase by Coca-Cola]
1973 Sterling Cabernet
1971 Sterling Cabernet
1965 Inglenook Cabernet
1970 BV Geo. de Latour Private reserve [André Tchelistcheffs]
1955 Inglenook Cabernet [a rarity by then]
The notes reminded me that at the time, some of these wines, such as the
1970 BV, were still "young," years from drinking at their best.
Finally 0.75 liter and 0.2 gallon are measures so nearly identical as to be
usually within bottle-capacity tolerances, so in the US it was (for once)
necessary only to change the language.
Thanks for sparking some memories! -- Max
Oh yes, the question: good old reds always go with good cheeses and breads
and nuts.
Dana Myers
30-year Charbono:
It might surprise you, but I would plan on a mild beef dish
of some kind. I just don't know what to expect from the wine,
so I'd stick with a beef dish prepared in a more delicate way.
Decanting might be a good idea simply to avoid getting sediment
into the glasses, but I would decant and serve immediately. Usually,
older wines will have a little bit of funk, so give it a few minutes
to open up, but it probably won't go a whole lot longer than that.
Enjoy!
Dana
Ken K.
> "Bryan Gilmer" wrote:
>>I've heard good things about California charbonos, but I've never
>>had one. And I've certainly never had one 30 years old.
>>So I need your advice: What meal might showcase this wine?
>>Also, I assume I shouldn't decant on the assumption that the flavors
>>will be muted and should be conserved. I welcome any guidance you
>>can provide.
Speaking of charbono: has anyone ever tried Turley's Charbono? My wine
shop had a stray bottle of this a few years ago. I snagged it, as I've
always enjoyed their Zins. I believe it's the 2000 vintage. Any
comments? I've never had a charbono and a web search has been only
minimally helpful. How long should I cellar this one? Thanks.
--
Ken
PLEASE REMOVE THE NONSENSE FROM MY ADDRESS TO REPLY!