TN: ESJ wins in New World Grenache night

[DaleW]

So when my friend Dave sent that theme for our local (not very serious) group this month was New World Grenache (at least 45% Grenache), I immediately replied all with "what did I ever do to you that makes you hate me so much?" I was joking, but barely. I didn't think I had anything that qualified, and had no real ideas for shopping- Greneche is not my favorite variety, and most that I drink are from the Rhone. However, the day was saved when Steve Edmunds informed me he thought the 2001 Rocks and Gravel was about 46% Grenache. Squeaking by! Turns out other people were less concerned with sticking by rules than I was.

So over to Dave's house for 6 blind wines:

Red#1 Somewhat hot, my first guess is something at 15.5-16 % abv, though it turns out to be only 14.5%. Tastes like like "expensive cuvee Spanish Garnacha" to me, but know it's on theme. Kirsch, macerated cherries, just a hint of oak, ok acidity, others like more than I do. 2005 Clarendon Hills "Hickinbotham" Grenache . B-/C+

Red# 2 Screwcap, much lighter, hint of spritz, red berries, a Beaujolais of a Grenache blend. High acids, not a lot of depth, but surprising and refreshing wine. I eventually get producer after some hugely broad hints from Fred (with those hints you could get BD without tasting wine). 2009 Bonny Doon "Clos de Gilroy" B

Red# 3- No guesses from me, as it's my wine. 3rd time I've had this recently, and to me best of a good series of showings. Balanced, earthy, herby, fleshy without any flab, a lot like an old school CdP. First bottle emptied (maybe only one). 2001 Edmunds St. John Rocks and Gravel (46% Grenache, 33% Mourvedre, 18% Syrah, and 3% Counoise). A-

Red#4 - Jammy, fruit compote meets fruit compost, no apparent oak, heavy, some lifted notes much beloved by some. I figure Oz. 2009 Torbeck Juveniles (60% Grenache). C

Red#5- I'm in Oz again. Very ripe, but fresh and straightforward. Red fruit, herb, red fruit. Guy who brought admits it's actually 42% G. 2009 Stump Jump GSM B-

Red#6- Roger says he tried, but no New World Grenache at store he went into. Red jammy fruit, a bit of oak, somewhat monolithic/monotone. 2009
Borsao Tres Picos C+/B-

Not my favorite lineup, but interesting to try and really good company. Nice breezy walk home.


Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

[Mark Lipton]

DaleW wrote:

> Red# 3- No guesses from me, as it's my wine. 3rd time I've had this
> recently, and to me best of a good series of showings. Balanced,
> earthy, herby, fleshy without any flab, a lot like an old school CdP.
> First bottle emptied (maybe only one). 2001 Edmunds St. John Rocks
> and Gravel (46% Grenache, 33% Mourvedre, 18% Syrah, and 3% Counoise).
> A-

When I read this, I was thinking back to my own experiences with this
wine before recalling that I never had it: what I had was the '01 Los
Robles Viejos, which was also a lovely, fleshy wine. For whatever
reason, Steve E. seems to find more success in odd-numbered years than
even-numbered ones recently, though the legendary '92 Grand Heritage
Syrah looms large as a counterexample.

>
> Red#4 - Jammy, fruit compote meets fruit compost, no apparent oak,
> heavy, some lifted notes much beloved by some. I figure Oz. 2009
> Torbeck Juveniles (60% Grenache). C

This is very interesting to me. A while ago, Dan Fredman -- one of the
most knowledgeable people I know on the subject of Oz wines -- had
recommended the Cuvée Juveniles as a good introduction to Torbreck for
people with Europhilic palates. Dan generally doesn't steer me wrong,
but I don't think I'll go looking for this while here in the Antipodes.

>
> Red#5- I'm in Oz again. Very ripe, but fresh and straightforward. Red
> fruit, herb, red fruit. Guy who brought admits it's actually 42% G.
> 2009 Stump Jump GSM B-

For the record, the producer is D'Arenberg in case anyone's looking for
this. I recall drinking some of their wines back in the early aughties,
but they always seemed to have a very similar licorice/eucalyptus
character to them that grew boring after a few examples.

>
> Red#6- Roger says he tried, but no New World Grenache at store he
> went into. Red jammy fruit, a bit of oak, somewhat
> monolithic/monotone. 2009 Borsao Tres Picos C+/B-

That sounds a bit like my impressions, too. The Tinto Borsao, as you
well know, proved more interesting to me.

You're a trooper, Dale. Well done!

Mark Lipton