It's the biggest joke between North End roommates Lynn Quealy and Nicole
Dever. When Quealy wants to know the latest hot makeup trends, she doesn't
flip through Cosmopolitan or Elle. Her best source is, of all things, a man
- Edward Fee, a regional Chanel makeup artist for Filene's.
''I was really excited to get a makeover by a man. I've always had it done
by a woman in the past,'' says Quealy, 23, who visits Fee regularly. ''It's
exciting to get a man's perspective.''
Sure, thought Dever, also 23. Lipstick and mascara tips from a guy? ''I
don't even go to a male hairdresser,'' she says. Then Dever had a makeover,
too. ''He has ways of putting on eyeshadow that I would never have thought
of,'' she says now. ''And if he thinks it looks good, then other men might,
too.''
Talk about role reversal. Today, there are male makeup artists everywhere
giving hands-on advice to women about their looks. It's an interesting
development for an industry created by numerous female entrepreneurs such
as Helena Rubinstein, Estee Lauder, Mary Kay Ash, and Florence Nightingale
Graham, (founder of Elizabeth Arden).
It wasn't that long ago that selling makeup was one of the few good jobs
available to women. ''The industry was in many ways built by women because
they were discriminated against in most other industries,'' says Kathy
Peiss, a history professor at the University of Massachusetts at Amherst
and author of the book ''Hope in a Jar: The Making of America's Beauty
Culture.''
So why are men getting into the act? ''It's big business,'' says Dave
Dodge, manager of the cosmetics department at Neiman Marcus in Boston,
which employs seven male makeup artists (out of 60). ''More and more, we
live in an environment focused on youthful looks. We [makeup artists] play
a huge role.''
To be sure, there have always been men in the industry. David Hall
McConnell founded Avon Cosmetics in 1886. Max Factor founded his firm in
1909. And Charles Revson created Revlon in 1932. But clearly, these were
businessmen who worked mostly behind the scenes, not on sales floors with
actual women customers. Indeed, says Peiss, ''women really made cosmetics
acceptable and popular among women. They had some understanding of how to
turn products that were seen as disreputable into something that women
should use on their faces.''
Nowadays, it's much more common for stores to employ male artists locally
or host the visits of national makeup artists, who travel around the
country meeting with customers. ''We can book a man'' for shopper
makeovers, says Dodge. ''He's usually good-looking, tall, and aggressive
.. and in society, there is a line of flirtation.''
Absolutely. Just ask Sarah Cardozo Duncan of West Roxbury. After chatting
for 20 minutes recently with Keith Cavaleri, a Bobbi Brown makeup artist at
Neiman Marcus, she decided to return later for a whole new look. Why? Not
only does Cavaleri know his colors, says Duncan, but ''he has fabulous
eyebrows.''
Some might argue that men have an advantage over women behind the counter
because frequently the women artists wear too much makeup for the real
world. Says Dever: ''Sometimes I see a lady at the counter and I say, `Eew,
she's going to make me look like her.' I'd much rather go to a man.''
Indeed, Julio Sandino, a New York-based artist who was in Boston recently
making over women at Saks Fifth Avenue, says, ''Women like having their
makeup done by a man because men see them in a different way.'' Sandino
works for Francois Nars, another male makeup artist who launched his own
cosmetics line in 1994 and who's known for doing the makeup for Madonna's
album covers and videos. Women, says Sandino, ''want a man's opinion of
what they'd like to see in a woman.''
Of course, being in the business, a lot of men wear makeup, too. Cavaleri
wears concealer and bronzing powder (which gives a suntanned look), he
says, because that helps to sell it. Also, he says, ''it gives me a
finished look. It makes me feel better about myself.''
Men say they're choosing the field because they love fashion and they enjoy
helping people. ''We're a self-esteem counter,'' says Johnnie Evers, who
sells cosmetics for 29 lines at Neiman Marcus. ''We make people feel good
about themselves. We're not judgmental. ... At the end of the day, I can go
home and feel good because I made someone else feel good.''
Evers started 12 years ago, selling Estee Lauder at Jordan Marsh, after
earning a college degree in marketing and interior design. As a child, he
says, he learned about makeup application and skin care from his aunt, who
owned a cosmetics studio.
In contrast, Fee started in makeup to supplement his income as a struggling
actor. After several years of work, he says, ''I thought this wasn't too
bad a career.'' Working for Revlon's Borghese division as a national makeup
artist, Fee flew all over the country meeting with customers. ''It's the
only time I've been in Phoenix, Seattle, and San Francisco. It was a
wonderful experience.''
Now Fee has settled in Hingham with his wife and daughter. He travels
around upstate New York, Connecticut, and Massachusetts doing faces for
Chanel. ''My reason for being here is my obsession with fashion. I love to
see people put together well, with matching shoes and pocketbooks, hair and
nails, gloves, whatever ... I think of it as art.''
And what about societal reaction to his career choice? ''There's an eyebrow
that goes up,'' Fee says. ''I'm not ashamed. I love what I do. I know a lot
of men who go to 9-to-5 jobs and sit behind desks and are miserable ... I
think sometimes the assumption is that if a man knows how to do this he
must be gay ... Male, female, gay, straight, [your success] always comes
down to your taste and how you connect with people.''
And Fee says he connects very well. ''I hear everything,'' he says. ''I
hear about affairs. Oh my God, it's like being a psychiatrist in a way.
You're really in their space. Everyone has something that you can enhance.
Maybe that endears you a little bit. It's a very personal thing when you're
talking about a person's colors.''
This story ran on page D01 of the Boston Globe on 12/21/98.
© Copyright 1998 Globe Newspaper Company.
>If you'll check the copyright page of the Globe, you'll see that it
>says:
>
> You may not copy, reproduce, distribute, publish,
> display, perform, modify, create derivative works,
> transmit, or in any way exploit any content on
> Boston.com, nor may you distribute any part of this
> content over any network, including a local area
> network, sell or offer it for sale, or use such content
> to construct any kind of database.
>
>Note the use of the word "or". *All* of these activities are
>prohibited.
>
>Just because information shows up on ones screen does not mean that one
>owns that information, or may reproduce it or repost it.
>
>Online publication is not free. The Globe, like other newspapers that
>provide their content free online, must pay for the right to use the
>articles electronically; it derives revenue from the ads it displays.
>Its fees for the ads are derived from the size of its audience.
>It's not fair to the writers nor to the newspaper to copy their articles
>to usenet, even with full attribution.
>
>(For a complete discussion of copyright, see
>http://publications.urel.wsu.edu:80/Copyright/CopyrightFacts/copyrightfacts
.html
>, http://lcweb.loc.gov/copyright/circs/circ1.html , or
>http://www.templetons.com/brad//copymyths.html .)
>
>Perhaps you could post a link, instead?
>
>-S.
>
>
>rjk wrote:
>>
>> Makeup men</WIRE_HEADER
>> Now, women shoppers are coming face to face with male cosmeticians - and
>> they like it
>> By Suzanne C. Ryan, Globe Staff, 12/21/98
><snip of entire copyrighted article>
Not so fast, S. Your own link to templetons argues against linking -
The first is the doctrine of "contributory copyright infringement." If you
make something whose sole purpose is to facilitate others in violating a
copyright, and/or you encourage people to do it, and you know you are doing
this, you can be liable for contributory infringement even though you didn't
do any copying.
So if you know that the owners of a site don't want you linking inside, and
you do it anyway just so people can get around their rules, then I think
that if their rules are upheld as valid (unknown) then you could be held
liable for contributory infringement.
Another way to think about it is to consider that URLs are like access
codes. The site owners might give those access codes out to people, but only
under their conditions -- ie. if you look at the page with the ad, we'll
provide along with the ad the access code to pull out the nice coyprighted
info. But does that mean you can hand out that access code to others? You
certainly can't if you think of things in terms of a userid/password access
code.
But more to the point it is important to realize a link is not just like
telling people the factual statement about what the access URL for a page
is. A link is actually the online implementation of a "device" -- a button
that people push which causes their browser to request a document from
another server. You didn't just tell them where the page was, you actually
built them a "physical" button that, if they push it, causes it to be
delivered.
SNIP
- hortensia
--
Take a walk on the wild side: http://www.metronet.com/~gardner/
Texas es Texas, muy grande en extension, pero cabe aqui
en mi corazon.
Joan Sebastian ("El Ilegal")