Basic Civilization 101 - The Man's Suit
Jpoijhgwedfg M. Gtgiokjhderfg Jr.
With the various threads on alt.fashion regarding internships, "WASP-wear," or
looking the part of a civilized gentleman, etc. I came to the conclusion the
time had come (the Walrus said) to wax eloquent on the matter of men's
suitings.
The questions then, naturally arise: How does a civilized man flatter his
build/colors with the maximum of style and individuality? Is MTM really better
than OTR? If so, a lot or a little? How about custom/bespoke?
The first thing to be addressed is what makes an acceptable suit (and its
rakish brother, the dinner jacket) and what makes an unacceptable suit. In a
suit, all the elements of fit and construction and workmanship and fabric
quality are paramount.
JACKET: A suit, if single breasted, ONLY has 2 or 3 buttons. If double
breasted,
it can have 6 buttons (any two of the lower four can be buttoned) or 4 (the
lower two are buttoned). The lapel may be notched ONLY in the single
breasted suit and regardless of whether the jacket is single- or
double-breasted may be peaked.
A jacket with a "ticket" pocket is slightly dressier, as is a jacket with
working sleeve buttonholes or with silk or Bemberg lining. These elements,
however, are not strictly necessary. The following, however, ARE important
details:
* The jacket ought be lined or half-lined (with fully finished seams).
* Unless you have a VERY slight build, shoulder padding should be only for the
sake of symmetry.
* If the suit is of the American/British sort, the pockets should be flapped.
European cut suits can be flapped or besom (i.e. "slits")
* The jacket should be JUST comfortable if you sit down with it buttoned.
* If you are buying an OTR suit, the single most important fitment criteria is
the shoulder. Everything else can be tailored to fit, but the shoulder cannot.
* If your build is definitely portly, an American cut suit is probably your
best bet. If your build is slim, choose the European cut. For almost every
other type, the British cut suit is the best bet.
* Vents. I hate them. But that is just personal preference. Single vented is
OK, and double vented, IMO, just calls attention to a gentleman's seat. Not
good.
* The only acceptable fabrics are natural fabrics. There are no exceptions.
* The more hand stitching, the better.
* A suit with pocket flaps that are matched to the pinstripe/pattern of a suit
is probably a superior item
* Lapels should not be too wide or too narrow (a rule of thumb is lapel width =
1/2 the distance between the collar and the shoulder seam). If you have a 3
button suit, button just the center button. If you button the top two
or--gasp!--the whole lot of them, you'll look like toothpaste being squeezed
outa the tube.
* Sleeves should JUST cover the wrist "bump"
* Jackets should JUST cover the buttocks (an extra 1''-1.5'' is okay)
TROUSERS: The trousers really should be pleated (although this is not
mandatory), preferably inward facing pleats, and should taper gradually from
knee to ankle. There should be either adjustable side tabs on the outside of
the waistband or suspender buttons on the inside of the waistband. Belt loops
if you really must. I strongly encourage cuffs. 1.25''-1.5'' if you are
shortish, 1.5''-1.75'' if you are tallish. Both back pockets should match.
(Beware those that only have one button-through pocket) A watch pocket is a
very nice touch.
FABRIC: Tropical-weight wool is the safest of the widely available
choices. Linen and cotton can be rather whimsical choices and heavier weights
of wool are okay if the weather (and climate control) lean towards the nippy.
<editorial>
Oh, and a pocket square (more on this later), is an absolute must.
</editorial>
(Copyright 2003- JMGarcia, Jr. And I WILL seek the electric chair!)
-Joe in SoFla
"They're such beautiful shirts. It makes me sad because I've never seen such -
such beautiful shirts before." Daisy Buchanan in F. Scott Fitzgerald's _The
Great Gatsby_ (or Trilby, at 29 Newbury...I forget)
Claire in SF
"Jpoijhgwedfg M. Gtgiokjhderfg Jr." <jmgar...@aol.complain> wrote in
message news:20030515160657...@mb-m23.aol.com...
Got it. Ready for the next one. Expecting future commentary on: suit color,
shirts, ties, etc. I appreciate your comments and hope my sweetie does, too.
Claire in SF
Charlie Perrin
Gtgiokjhderfg Jr.) wrote:
>Basic Civilization 101 - The Man's Suit
When will you be doing "Basic Civilization 101 - The Man's
Wifebeater?" <grin/duck>
rev
Anyway, can anyone provide a link to a website
describing the various styles and etiquette of
mens suits. I'm finishing university next year and
am anticipating on buying a few nice suits in
preparation for the work-world.
On 15 May 2003 20:06:57 GMT, jmgar...@aol.complain (Jpoijhgwedfg M.
Gtgiokjhderfg Jr.) wrote:
Jpoijhgwedfg M. Gtgiokjhderfg Jr.
>describing the various styles and etiquette of
>mens suits. I'm finishing university next year and
>am anticipating on buying a few nice suits in
>preparation for the work-world.
I'll try to put up something to that effect.
Jpoijhgwedfg M. Gtgiokjhderfg Jr.
>Got it. Ready for the next one. Expecting future commentary on: suit color,
>shirts, ties, etc. I appreciate your comments and hope my sweetie does, too.
I think I already did shirts. I'll have to Google myself to make sure, though.
The one on ties is next, as I am reveling in the RLPL 7-fold tie (I also have
another by Robt. Talbott) and surely that will inspire me to rapturous flights
of prose.
On the suit-color front...there is one MAIN consideration: Is this a
"professional-setting" or a "I wanna look sharp for mah sweetie!" suit.
If the former, the choices are to be kept within the blue-grey axis, with
charcoal and navy being the two most obvious choices. FWIW, it's considered
that grey projects expertise and blue projects authority, and the darker the
color the more "projecting" it is. Pinstripes add to the projection.
Patterns should be very subtle, and overplaids be subtler than THAT.
Now, for just looking good, the field is more wide-open. Tan, olive, bold glen
plaids, browns, tweeds, etc. are all quite smart and very acceptable.
At this point I make a likely plea in vain for pocket squares. Sadly the
*overwhelming* majority of men (try this at home...go ahead, prove me right)
consider a pocket square to be, at very best a dandified affectation and at
worst, no better than a hoop skirt and bustle. <sigh>
I know better than to even try to plea on behalf of suspenders.
Oh, and one last thing, the side pockets on a suits trousers SHOULD be on the
side seam...not at an angle thereto or "cut" into the main body of the hip
fabric.