Basic Civilization 101 - The Dress Shirt
Jsldkfh M. Gpqwoieruy Jr.
With a fairly lively thread on alt.fashion regarding men's dress shirtings. I
took it upon myself to rhapsodize on men's dress shirts.
Men's dress shirts are those that at some point could very well be seen
underneath a suit jacket (or blazer or other sportcoat). These are
characterized by two main aspects: Collar style and cuff style.
What makes a shirt, be it off-the-rack (OTR), made-to-measure (MTM) or custom
made (or "bespoke") worthwhile? Well, besides the aforementioned considerations
of cuff and collar, one ought consider fabric and construction.
CUFF: There are two basic styles of cuff, french cuff and barrel cuff, with
some sub-variations. The french cuff may be double (i.e., the kind that folds
over) or single (i.e., that kind that doesn't) although the latter is extremely
rare. The barrel cuff may close at two points (as is often the case in British
and Brit-like styles) or only one (as in the American style. The corners of the
barrel cuff may be perfectly squared (usually French or Italian), rounded
(usually American) or "mitered" (usually British or Brit-like). Cuffs that have
two buttons to adjust the circumference of same around the wearer's wrist
(cuffs should JUST be so narrow that they cannot be slipped over the hand while
buttoned or cufflinked) are generally to be avoided. Short sleeved dress shirts
are an oxymoron of teh highest order and should be shunned like the Amish would
a crack whore.
COLLAR: The collar may be of a myriad styles. These should *all* button tightly
so that the "base" of the collar points are a sharp /\ and NOT a / \.
Buttondown - The preppy shirt archetype. The original (late & lamented) and
best manifestation of same was Brooks Brothers'. Ralph Lauren Polo and Lands'
End are the best currently available of the OTR in general distribution today.
The most important feature of this collar is the "roll" and how softly and
gracefully it does so around the tie. Some people do not believe this style is
appropriate for suits. While I, personally, do NOT wear it with suits I do not
agree. It really is not appropriate with double breasted jackets. These
collars, ideally, also have a button at the back of the collar to keep the tie
in place. This style of collar does NOT belong with a french cuff or in a
contrasting collar type set up. The less aid about hidden buttons, the better.
Straight - The "regular" shirt. The most important feature of this collar is
the not-too-narrow (~45 deg.) angle formed by the collar points. It is the
"safest" choice. These normally take a pair of longish flat, thin "stays" (that
go into miniature pockets on the collar points' undersides) to keep the points
flat and taut. When the collar points' tips are rather short and rounded, this
is called a "club collar."
Spread/Cutaway - These are two very similar cousins. The spread has slightly
longer points and--usually--a slightly higher neck band. Usually the angle is
~90 deg., but the cutaway may be had sometimes (i.e. like Polo's) with a
~110-120 deg. angle. These styles (esp. the Spread) are usually very British.
These normally take a pair of shortish flat, thin "stays" (that go into
miniature pockets on the collar points' undersides) to keep the points flat and
taut. Sometimes the inside edges of the collar are a bit rounded, in which case
the collar is called the "varsity" collar.
Tab - Similar to the straight collar only that in place of the collar stays two
little fabric tabs emerge from the inside edge of the collar to bring the
collar points closer together and wrap around the tie's knot. The tabs are
hooked up via a stud, snap or button. The nicer sorts of shirt seem to take a
button, and the ultra dressy sort take a stud sometimes, but not always.
Pin - Similar to the straight collar only that in place of the collar stays two
little tiny circular, stitched holes emerge from the center of the collar's
points to bring, via a gold/silver safety pin or bar with spheres that screw
onto threaded tips, the collar points closer together and wrap around the tie's
knot. There are club collar variations of this, as well.
FABRIC: With some very narrowly defined exceptions (linen springs to mind) I do
not believe a proper dress shirt is available in anything other than cotton.
Regular and heavier gauge "oxford cloth" is best left to buttondown shirts.
Pinpoint oxford and broadcloths may be used for all types of shirts. Sea Island
cotton and other longer staple cottons are found in the very best shirts.
Personally, I avoid any and all artificial fibers the way I would an
ill-mannered leper with morning breath.
FEATURES - In the early 1980s, Perry Ellis had shirts with a long pleat down
the sleeve. I still think of this as a great detail. Sleeves should also have a
button in the center of the placket (i.e. the "gauntlet" button) and the
buttonhole should be perpendicular to the placket. The shirtfront should also
have a separate placket with a minimum of seven buttons, and the shirt itself
should be long enough to remain properly tucked throughout your daily
gyrations. The back-shoulder area is called the yoke and it should be in two
pieces, at a 45 deg. angle to the horizon and the pieces should be
perpendicular to each other. Below the yoke, at dead center, should be a "box
pleat", a pair of shallpe pleats running from yoke to the bottom of the shirt
forming an elongated "box" about 1.5" (~4 cm) wide. between the top of the box
pleat and the bottom of the yoke, sometimes a loop of fabric is stitched,
called the locker loop, and it is a very nice touch.
Dress shirts may, or may not, have a pocket. They may not have two pockets and
still be considered dressy enough to go with a blazer or suit. Monograms may be
on the pocket, left breast, bottom front left tail (my personal fave) or left
cuff (which I personally dislike intensely). I also prefer a monogram in the
same color fabric as the shirt's body. You do what you want.
Collars/cuffs may also be in a contrasting white (a rather Brit-like thing, and
not bad in moderation), but ideally only in spread-like or tab shirts. If the
collar contrasts, so must the cuffs, and the cuffs REALLY should take
cufflinks.
(Copyright 2001- JMGarcia, Jr. And I WILL seek the electric chair!)
-Joe in SoFla
ahmward
Gpqwoieruy Jr.) wrote:
>Basic Civilization 101 - The Dress Shirt
>
. Short sleeved dress shirts
>are an oxymoron of teh highest order and should be shunned like the Amish would
>a crack whore.
Terrific post, Joe. Mr ahmward has one short sleeve white dress and
one blue one. It is worn when the temps. reach above 102 degrees and
only if he must spend a fair amount of time outdoors such as at a
groundbreaking ceremony. Even then he'll opt for the long sleeve and
suffer.
Audrey
Jsldkfh M. Gpqwoieruy Jr.
The idea is, as Fernando Lamas used to say, that it's better to look good than
to feel good.
Sometimes one must suffer for one's, er, art.
-Joe in SoFla
If we suffer tamely a lawless attack upon our liberty, we encourage it,
and involve others in our doom. - Samuel Adams (brewer AND patriot)
Catbird
news:20011023152442...@mb-fn.aol.com...
[snip amusing and informative post on one of my favorite
subjects]
> (Copyright 2001- JMGarcia, Jr. And I WILL seek the electric chair!)
>
> -Joe in SoFla
Thanks for the rhapsody, Joe! I like your copyright warning. ;-)
Catbird
Jjjjjulie
>Lines: 12
>From: jmgar...@aol.complain (Jsldkfh M. Gpqwoieruy Jr.)
>The idea is, as Fernando Lamas used to say, that it's better to look good
>than
>to feel good.
And you, you look mahverlhous.
--
Julie P., the alt.fashion curmudgeon
"The sense of being perfectly well-dressed gives a feeling of inward
tranquillity which religion is powerless to bestow."--Ralph Waldo Emerson
meowmix
monogram on the cuff?
robyn
Jsldkfh M. Gpqwoieruy Jr.
The reason why I dislike the monogram on the cuff--and mind you, it's
acceptable--is because it seems to be a bit too "obvious" in a "hey-look-at-me"
sorta way.
<editorial>
I like my monograms to be *almost* invisible. Ideally, out of view when the
jacket is closed and in the same color as the shirt's fabric.
</editorial>
(Thanks, BTW!)
Kris in Philly
>
>
>-Joe in SoFla
I was clueless to men's fashion until Joe. Now I can safely shop with
my best friend and know that I am pointing him toward really great
stuff. And he is impressed when I go off on why it's a good choice.
AF makes you look good in others ways too. Thanks Joe!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Kris in Philly
If people wore more leather maybe it would be a less stressed world.