Hand painting my landy
micha...@spearxyxheadfilms.com
First, I will be hand painting and have done lots of prep already. What
primer should I use and should the NATO paint be thinned? I understand
cellulose paint may require different primer? Help wou;d be appreciated :-)
Regards
Michael
remove XYX to reply
Joe
> I am about to paint my old 110 in desert NATO paint and want some advice.
> First, I will be hand painting and have done lots of prep already. What
> primer should I use and should the NATO paint be thinned? I understand
> cellulose paint may require different primer? Help wou;d be appreciated
:-)
preparation? primer?
judging by the finish on my ex-military SIII, standard military painting
procedure is just to slop it on top of the old coat with a big brush... 8)
Not me, someone else
Or a reasonable size fork ... ;)
--
Digweed
Mr.Nice.
finger to keyboard producing:
When I was in the army we used to patch up the paintwork now and
again, think we usen an old creosote (sp?) brush or similar..
--
Regards.
Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
___________________________________________________________
"To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.
http://www.mr-nice.rulestheweb.com mr.niceATsofthome.net
news:uk.people.disability news:uk.rec.bodybuilding
ICQ: 145261087 MSN:mark_sw_uk
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___________________________________________________________
Rory Manton
micha...@spearXYXheadfilms.com at micha...@spearXYXheadfilms.com wrote
on 10/6/03 2:25 pm:
To do a propper squaddy job follow these easy steps
1. Get the vehicle good and muddy.
2. Let the mud dry.
3. Get told to paint it.
4. Look hard at vehicle and try to clean by mind power alown.
5. Get paint brush and paint.
6. Get the paint brush and paint together in the same place.
7. Open paint,close paint and shake the tin untill the lid comes off.
8. Clean paint off your self and surroundings and bin it for the day.
9. Open paint and dip brush in untill fingers paint coloured.
10. Apply paint to the vehicle over any mud ,flys or vegitation.
11. Stand back and admire handywork.
For that truly authentic feel, honk,drip off and moan all through the
process, and think of all the poor b*****ds that will have to do the job
again the next time.
Austin Shackles
<ro...@griffon65.freeserve.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:
>>
>To do a propper squaddy job follow these easy steps
>
>1. Get the vehicle good and muddy.
>2. Let the mud dry.
>3. Get told to paint it.
>4. Look hard at vehicle and try to clean by mind power alown.
>5. Get paint brush and paint.
>6. Get the paint brush and paint together in the same place.
>7. Open paint,close paint and shake the tin untill the lid comes off.
>8. Clean paint off your self and surroundings and bin it for the day.
>9. Open paint and dip brush in untill fingers paint coloured.
>10. Apply paint to the vehicle over any mud ,flys or vegitation.
>11. Stand back and admire handywork.
>
>For that truly authentic feel, honk,drip off and moan all through the
>process, and think of all the poor b*****ds that will have to do the job
>again the next time.
marvellous...
anyone know what the nato paint is, BTW? I doubt it's cellulose. will it
fight with normal paint, if'n I paint over it?
I was toying wit painting mine Nato Sand colour, or possibly Nato Green -
seeing as I've got to paint the new wing I haven't got yet.
presumably the new wing will want the black primer stuff removed and doing
with etch primer first...
could always go for a sand/green camo pattern...
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Carpe diem, quam minimum credula postero" (sieze today, and put
as little trust as you can in tomorrow) Horace (65 - 8 BC) Odes, I.xi.8
Nikki
Which one though? Realtree or dpm?
--
Nikki
1990 Discovery V8i
1985 Range Rover V8
Rory Manton
aus...@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk wrote on 11/6/03 9:24 am:
What about doing it the three colour (mud brown,green and yellow ( sort of
dried grass colour)) of the Falkland RiC?
Joe
> To do a propper squaddy job follow these easy steps
>
> 1. Get the vehicle good and muddy.
> 2. Let the mud dry.
> 3. Get told to paint it.
> 4. Look hard at vehicle and try to clean by mind power alown.
> 5. Get paint brush and paint.
> 6. Get the paint brush and paint together in the same place.
> 7. Open paint,close paint and shake the tin untill the lid comes off.
> 8. Clean paint off your self and surroundings and bin it for the day.
> 9. Open paint and dip brush in untill fingers paint coloured.
> 10. Apply paint to the vehicle over any mud ,flys or vegitation.
> 11. Stand back and admire handywork.
I think the squadies were slacking when they did mine - they clearly messed
up on step 10 by applying the flies to the windscreen and growing the
vegitation in the sliding window grooves rather than applying them to the
bodywork and painting over them as per your procedure... 8)
Austin Shackles
<ro...@griffon65.freeserve.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:
>
>What about doing it the three colour (mud brown,green and yellow ( sort of
>dried grass colour)) of the Falkland RiC?
hmmm... there's a thought. dunno where you get the other colours though.
one of the suppliers has 5-litre cans of nato green, black or sand.
I was thinking more of the typical pig-blobby patches type camo... but in
the end, a single-colour is probably more sensible, quite fancy the sand
colour in fact.
either that or a few tins of "ford transmission grey", which is close to
what it is now.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"For millions of years, mankind lived just like the animals. Then
something happened which unleashed the power of our imagination -
we learned to talk." Pink Floyd (1994)
michael
"Joe" <fa...@fake.fake> wrote in message
news:tQlFa.12363$Nf.3...@sea-read.news.verio.net...
Thanks. :-) Any ideas what primer I should use though? I don't want to
cause bubbling etc at a later date.
Thanks
Joe
> > preparation? primer?
> >
> > judging by the finish on my ex-military SIII, standard military painting
> > procedure is just to slop it on top of the old coat with a big brush...
8)
> >
> >
>
> Thanks. :-) Any ideas what primer I should use though? I don't want to
> cause bubbling etc at a later date.
Sorry, I really have no idea. But I'm sure when we've run out of squaddie
jokes someone will tell you...
Dave White
> Thanks. :-) Any ideas what primer I should use though? I don't want
> to cause bubbling etc at a later date.
When I painted my civvy LR it had a coat of etch primer topped by a coat
of "tractor enamel". The two paints didn't react but neither did they
bond so a few years later large flakes of the top coat had been stripped
off by jet washes etc...
Fed up of the multi-coloured appearance and lack of maintainability I
decided to go with some military paint (sand in my case). I prepared the
vehicle by using a damp sponge to clean off what I could of the years of
dust and oil. I then put 2 coats of sand paint over the lot. 4 years on
and there's no sign of bubbling, lifting or any other problems. The
paint seems to be "bomb proof" when it comes to mixing with other paints
and despite the best efforts of trees and rocks it has developed nothing
but a few scratches which are easy enough to paint over.
The paint is brilliant stuff and has the advantage that if it starts to
look a bit scruffy you just give it a fresh coat over the top.
In short, I wouldn't bother with a primer unless you are down to metal
in large areas. Just clean the dust and moss off the old paintwork and
"blather it". If you are down to metal (aluminium) you might be best
using an etching primer first but given the paint stuck to my galvanised
cappings you'll probably get away without.
cheers
Dave W.
Rory Manton
micha...@spearXYXheadfilms.com wrote on 12/6/03 3:29 pm:
Just rub it down to take out the flys and repaint, never caused any problems
befor.
michael
"Dave White" <davew_no...@yorkshireoffroadclub.net> wrote in message
news:20030612163...@news.demon.co.uk...
Thanks. The problem I have is that I've done a lot of patching up and
repairs plus I have the usual blue bodywork and white top, its now going to
be uniform sand colour. I thought primer would be best to keep the vehicle
one tone. What do you think? I'm starting on the paint in about 3 hours so
any advice would be mucho appreciated. I'll post up pics when done :-)
Michael
Dave White
> Thanks. The problem I have is that I've done a lot of patching up and
> repairs plus I have the usual blue bodywork and white top, its now
> going to be uniform sand colour. I thought primer would be best to
> keep the vehicle one tone. What do you think? I'm starting on the
> paint in about 3 hours so any advice would be mucho appreciated. I'll
> post up pics when done :-)
Mine was dark green where the tractor enamel was still there and almost
sand coloured where the primer was showing through. The sand NATO paint
went over both without any show through...
Make sure you stir the paint VERY VERY well - if you don't it dries
gloss !
Stephen Hull
"michael" <micha...@spearXYXheadfilms.com> wrote:
[snip]
>Thanks. The problem I have is that I've done a lot of patching up and
>repairs plus I have the usual blue bodywork and white top, its now going to
>be uniform sand colour. I thought primer would be best to keep the vehicle
>one tone. What do you think? I'm starting on the paint in about 3 hours so
>any advice would be mucho appreciated. I'll post up pics when done :-)
>
>
>Michael
>
Don't use a primer for overall body covering, For this you'll need an
under coat mixed with gloss to achieve a smooth finish, Primer on it's
own won't give you a smooth finish good enough for the final top coat.
Steve.
--
Vehicle Painting Pointers: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
StrongARM Powered Risc PC 600, 80Mb + 2MbVram, RISC OS 4
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
Stephen Hull
<micha...@spearXYXheadfilms.com> wrote:
>I am about to paint my old 110 in desert NATO paint and want some advice.
>First, I will be hand painting and have done lots of prep already. What
>primer should I use and should the NATO paint be thinned? I understand
>cellulose paint may require different primer? Help wou;d be appreciated :-)
>
If you haven't any bare metal showing then you won't need to use a
primer, Primer is used for protection purposes either on bare metal or
wood but not necessary over existing paintwork, for build up purposes
or colour obliteration you'd use an undercoat.
Etch primer is required on bare aluminium though.
Stephen Hull
Mother < "@ {mother} @"@101fc.net> wrote:
[snip]
>And to matt it down more, chuck another handfull of sand in (the
>authentic way). One of our club members mixed in some varnish to help
>prevent the porosity often found with matt paints.
>
Thats the problem with matt paint it is porous, chalky, always marks
easy it behaves more like primer.
A semi-gloss finish is far more durable.
Stephen Hull
Mother < "@ {mother} @"@101fc.net> wrote:
[snip]
>One of the best possible resources (written by a regular hereabouts)
>is: http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/
>
Cheers, Martyn,
Stephen Hull
Dave White <davew_no...@yorkshireoffroadclub.net> wrote:
[snip]
>Make sure you stir the paint VERY VERY well - if you don't it dries
>gloss !
Thats because the "matting agent" is heavy and glues itself to the
bottom of the tin, without it you'd have a full gloss.
Stephen Hull
Austin Shackles <aus...@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
[snip]
>>For that truly authentic feel, honk,drip off and moan all through the
>>process, and think of all the poor b*****ds that will have to do the job
>>again the next time.
>
>marvellous...
>
>anyone know what the nato paint is, BTW? I doubt it's cellulose. will it
>fight with normal paint, if'n I paint over it?
>
I think you'll find it's synthetic, You can paint synthetic paint over
almost any paint surface but not the other way round unless you isolate
first with "Barcote" or another similar barrier coat.
Nikki
> In message <20030613104...@news.demon.co.uk>
> Dave White <davew_no...@yorkshireoffroadclub.net> wrote:
>
> [snip]
>
>> Make sure you stir the paint VERY VERY well - if you don't it dries
>> gloss !
>
> Thats because the "matting agent" is heavy and glues itself to the
> bottom of the tin, without it you'd have a full gloss.
>
> Steve.
>
>
A good way to do this is to use the whisk attachment of an electric hand
whisk in a drill, put it in the paint before you start the drill and make
sure you use a drill that has a slow start.
Tim Hobbs
>>
>A good way to do this is to use the whisk attachment of an electric hand
>whisk in a drill, put it in the paint before you start the drill and make
>sure you use a drill that has a slow start.
Great idea.
Mandy is going to want a word with you...
Tim Hobbs
'58 Series 2
'77 101FC Ambulance
'95 Discovery V8i
Mr.Nice.
@"@101fc.net> put finger to keyboard producing:
>On Fri, 13 Jun 2003 14:59:19 +0100, Nikki <nikki....@ntlworld.com>
>wrote:
>
>>A good way to do this is to use the whisk attachment of an electric hand
>>whisk in a drill, put it in the paint before you start the drill and make
>>sure you use a drill that has a slow start.
>
>Or better still - to avoid getting the battering of your life, do what
>I did and get a paint whisk that goes in an electric drill for 3 quid
>from a pain factor :-)
>
A pain factor? ouch, couldn't I get one from B&Q instead?
Alex
>>
>>
>Just rub it down to take out the flys and repaint, never caused any problems
I don't even bother with that. I get a tin of Nato Green Matt out and
a 3" brush and apply. I don't even wash the car first.
It'll only get scraped off or mucky again, why bother?
Alex
Nikki
>
>>>
>> A good way to do this is to use the whisk attachment of an electric hand
>> whisk in a drill, put it in the paint before you start the drill and make
>> sure you use a drill that has a slow start.
>
> Great idea.
>
> Mandy is going to want a word with you...
>
> Tim Hobbs
>
The deal was if I let him have the two whisk attachments and the two bread
making attachments(these looked like large corkscrews) then I got a brand
new food processor. So I went out and bought myself a Magimix, with all the
extra bits to go with it.
Nikki
>
> Or better still - to avoid getting the battering of your life, do what
> I did and get a paint whisk that goes in an electric drill for 3 quid
> from a pain factor :-)
He's got two or three of those. The electric whisk blade is just the right
size for smaller tins of paint.
Austin Shackles
<st...@painting-pointers.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:
>In message <fkpdevccv637q0krt...@4ax.com>
>Austin Shackles <aus...@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>
>[snip]
>
>>>For that truly authentic feel, honk,drip off and moan all through the
>>>process, and think of all the poor b*****ds that will have to do the job
>>>again the next time.
>>
>>marvellous...
>>
>>anyone know what the nato paint is, BTW? I doubt it's cellulose. will it
>>fight with normal paint, if'n I paint over it?
>>
>I think you'll find it's synthetic, You can paint synthetic paint over
>almost any paint surface but not the other way round unless you isolate
>first with "Barcote" or another similar barrier coat.
cool. I can just lob a coat of "sand" over the whole thing then :-)
won't happen 'til I can afford the replacement body panels, mind... tyres to
pay for first...
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Would to God that we might spend a single day really well!"
Thomas Ą Kempis (1380 - 1471) Imitation of Christ, I.xxiii.
Tim Hobbs
>> Mandy is going to want a word with you...
>>
>> Tim Hobbs
>>
>The deal was if I let him have the two whisk attachments and the two bread
>making attachments(these looked like large corkscrews) then I got a brand
>new food processor. So I went out and bought myself a Magimix, with all the
>extra bits to go with it.
Aah - I think you'd both get on rather well....
Nikki
Hardly worth even opening the tin really is it ?! ;-)
>
> Alex
Nikki
>>>
>>> Mandy is going to want a word with you...
>>>
>>> Tim Hobbs
>>>
>> The deal was if I let him have the two whisk attachments and the two bread
>> making attachments(these looked like large corkscrews) then I got a brand
>> new food processor. So I went out and bought myself a Magimix, with all the
>> extra bits to go with it.
>
> Aah - I think you'd both get on rather well....
>
> Tim Hobbs
>
Has she got one too? Bruce nearly fell through the floor when I told him
how much it was! His face was a picture. Anyway he thinks nothing of
disappearing to B&Q and coming back with bloody petrol chainsaw that hasn't
even been out of the box in the three years he's had it. Too much of
bargain to pass by it was. I did get £40 off it though, because there was a
slight crack in the lid of the main mixing bowl and the box was badly
damaged. It isn't like we have any trees any more as he cut them down with
his other chainsaw so he could extend his workshop to accomodate all his
tools.
Tim Hobbs
>Has she got one too? Bruce nearly fell through the floor when I told him
>how much it was! His face was a picture. Anyway he thinks nothing of
>disappearing to B&Q and coming back with bloody petrol chainsaw that hasn't
>even been out of the box in the three years he's had it. Too much of
>bargain to pass by it was. I did get £40 off it though, because there was a
>slight crack in the lid of the main mixing bowl and the box was badly
>damaged. It isn't like we have any trees any more as he cut them down with
>his other chainsaw so he could extend his workshop to accomodate all his
>tools.
OK, wave goodbye to any credibility I might once have had...
We have a nice Kenwood food processor. I bought it years ago before I
met Mandy, when I was at Uni. I used to be a dab hand in the kitchen
- I even own a pasta dryer... I've never used it, obviously...
I don't have a chainsaw, but I do have petrol mower, petrol
brushcutter and petrol hedge trimmer. So far this year I have only
used the hedge trimmer, but they will all have to see action this
weekend. I can't actually find the dogs when we play in the garden
'cos the grass is so high.
Tim Hobbs
>If so, could I borrow it at some point? as we're going to go and start
>clearing the new playground sometime in the nearish future. It's a
>tad overgrown in places:
>
>http://www.101fc.net/kent-2002/
>
>and that was a year ago!
>
>
>Regards
>
>Martyn
Yup - I think brushcutter is the Aussie terminology, which is where I
first used one.
Borrow away - I reckon it'll sort that lot out in no time. Just let
me know when. I use it about twice a year!
I only have it because I tend to do my first mow in June / July, by
which time it is beyond my mower...
JD
"Tim Hobbs" <t...@101ambulance-urine.net> wrote in message
news:5bmjevcaeq55hqecv...@4ax.com...
>
> >>
> >A good way to do this is to use the whisk attachment of an electric hand
> >whisk in a drill, put it in the paint before you start the drill and make
> >sure you use a drill that has a slow start.
>
> Great idea.
>
get stir attachments for your drill from your local hardware store)
JD
David French
news:i0bkev8utegg4qfo9...@4ax.com...
> Is that anything like a petrol strimmer?
My dad has a petrol strimmer.
The first time he used it, he strimmed the bark off his tree and it died.
He hasn't been able to bring himself to use it since.
David French
news:o18kev8ljdmc965pi...@4ax.com...
> cool. I can just lob a coat of "sand" over the whole thing then :-)
It also means you won't fall off when you're walking over it.
Tim Hobbs
You can get metal blades for them too. God-alone knows what that
would do. I don't intend to find out...
Stephen Hull
Austin Shackles <aus...@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
[snip]
>>>anyone know what the nato paint is, BTW? I doubt it's cellulose. will it
>>>fight with normal paint, if'n I paint over it?
>>>
>>I think you'll find it's synthetic, You can paint synthetic paint over
>>almost any paint surface but not the other way round unless you isolate
>>first with "Barcote" or another similar barrier coat.
>
>cool. I can just lob a coat of "sand" over the whole thing then :-)
Yep!
>won't happen 'til I can afford the replacement body panels, mind... tyres to
>pay for first...
>
Was hoping to continue working on mine this year, but the year is
passing quickly by :(
So much to do, So little time........
Austin Shackles
<t...@101ambulance-urine.net> enlightened us thusly:
>
>You can get metal blades for them too. God-alone knows what that
>would do. I don't intend to find out...
the 3-pointed heavy metal blades are excellent for brambles and big nettles
and other stuff that eats string.
slightly different technique, though, you rev it up before cutting, and use
more of the momentum of the blade than the engine, this makes it less likely
to break things if it stops suddenly. Very effective, but it needs care,
hit something solid with it hard enough and you'd break things.
the small-toothed saw blade type ones are for cutting small trees, I think.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
If all be true that I do think, There are five reasons we should drink;
Good wine, a friend, or being dry, Or lest we should be by and by;
Or any other reason why. - Henry Aldrich (1647 - 1710)
Austin Shackles
<st...@painting-pointers.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:
>In message <o18kev8ljdmc965pi...@4ax.com>
>Austin Shackles <aus...@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk> wrote:
>
>[snip]
>
>>>>anyone know what the nato paint is, BTW? I doubt it's cellulose. will it
>>>>fight with normal paint, if'n I paint over it?
>>>>
>>>I think you'll find it's synthetic, You can paint synthetic paint over
>>>almost any paint surface but not the other way round unless you isolate
>>>first with "Barcote" or another similar barrier coat.
>>
>>cool. I can just lob a coat of "sand" over the whole thing then :-)
>
>Yep!
If I can afford it, might buy other colours too and play with colour
schemes.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
Austin Shackles
<david....@virgin.net> enlightened us thusly:
silly arse... mind, I did that on a wooden step for a minibus. lots of
paint, lots of sand - non-slip black paint!
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
Nikki
We got rid of the lawn mower when Bruce spilt paint remover on the grass.
Not long before he decided the tree was coming down, and that we'd have to
have some slabs down that he'd saved from going to the tip. Nice in our
garden now. A half built wendy house, the caravan and pride of place is the
Mercedes 307 van which has been rotting away on the front until recently,
and is now a usefull storage facility for several salvaged items that will
probably be usefull to someone some day. He kept it because its got a
"bloody good engine" in it which he is sure will come in handy one day too.
>
>
>
> Tim Hobbs
>
> http://www.seriesii.co.uk
> http://www.101ambulance.net
Nikki
> On Fri, 13 Jun 2003 20:34:53 +0100, Tim Hobbs
> <t...@101ambulance-urine.net> wrote:
>
>> OK, wave goodbye to any credibility I might once have had...
>
> I'm with Bruce on the chainsaw, but as cred is plumeting...
>
> I'm notorious for buying really handy kitchen appliances - including a
> Raclette (used once), several electric griddles, Nespresso(TM) coffee
> machine (ok, I use that A LOT) and various assorted gadgets. So
> Charlotte now only allows me one small bag whenever I fly off
> somewhere with nice shops. (Last time I actually brought another
> suitcase whilst away, though...)
>
>> petrol brushcutter
>
> Is that anything like a petrol strimmer?
>
> If so, could I borrow it at some point? as we're going to go and start
> clearing the new playground sometime in the nearish future. It's a
> tad overgrown in places:
>
> http://www.101fc.net/kent-2002/
>
> and that was a year ago!
What sort of playground do you have in mind?
Is there much land there that wants clearing that overgrown? You might be
better to hire a mini digger.
>
> Regards
>
> Martyn
David French
news:BB10DAFA.EF32%nikki....@ntlworld.com...
> > If so, could I borrow it at some point? as we're going to go and start
> > clearing the new playground sometime in the nearish future. It's a
> > tad overgrown in places:
> >
> > http://www.101fc.net/kent-2002/
> >
> > and that was a year ago!
> What sort of playground do you have in mind?
> Is there much land there that wants clearing that overgrown? You might be
> better to hire a mini digger.
If it has playground potential, I'm sure you'll find some willing helpers in
this NG.
Nikki
> On Fri, 13 Jun 2003 21:45:50 +0100, Tim Hobbs
> <t...@101ambulance-urine.net> wrote:
>
>> Borrow away
>
> Ta muchly!
>
>> I reckon it'll sort that lot out in no time.
>
> Ah, the pics only show one of the old shed supply roads (my favourite
> one actually, which I may leave fairly overgrown).
>
> There are around a dozen other roadlets and some 10 acres of what was
> once award winning landscaped gardens (before my Aunt developed
> Alzheimer's and couldn't continue maintaining them). It's the
> landscaped gardens I want to clear and tidy so she and my Uncle can
> enjoy them a little. They're both very frail now - which is pretty
> much why I decided it was time to take a little control and try to
> make their twilight a little more bearable.
>
>> Just let me know when.
>
> 3 or 4 weeks time alright?
>
>> I only have it because I tend to do my first mow in June / July, by
>> which time it is beyond my mower...
>
> This is one reason why I've never brought a house with a big garden
> before. Now I have what seems like half of Kent to try and look after
> though!
>
> I have plans for some of the vehicle sheds - which were bombproof, and
> also an idea for an off-road course on the old part of the gunsite ;-)
>
>
> Regards
>
> Martyn
Bruce has a petrol strimmer. I expect you can borrow him and the strimmer
if there is anywhere he could shoot a few rabbits without disturbing anyone.
He's always looking for new places to go shooting and doesn't mind working
in exchange.
Nikki
> silly arse... mind, I did that on a wooden step for a minibus. lots of
> paint, lots of sand - non-slip black paint!
More like sore arse where you grazed yourself falling over
Nikki
> On Sat, 14 Jun 2003 14:07:57 +0100, "David French"
> <david....@virgin.net> wrote:
>
>> If it has playground potential, I'm sure you'll find some willing helpers in
>> this NG.
>
> Form an orderly queue :-)
>
> I'm a tad reluctant to turn up with hoards of enthusiastic Land Rover
> gardeners as 'the locals' don't really know me very well (even though
> I've been going there for way over 40 years - Kent's like that...).
Could it be to do with the purple vehicle you srive.
>
> Plus there's the small issue of, erm, planning permission. Given I
> may want to 'change the use' of some of it at some point, I think it
> may be prudent to tread a little lightly at the moment :-)
Malcolm Kane
<t...@101ambulance-urine.net> writes
>>
>
>You can get metal blades for them too. God-alone knows what that
>would do. I don't intend to find out...
>
and the blade shattered. Keep well away from using one with a metal
blade.
--
Malcolm Kane
Nikki
wrote:
Bruce seconds that. It's also the reason when he's been asked in the past to
lend someone his chainsaw, he refuses. He'll go and do the job for them,
but won't let them use it. We know of someone who lost an arm by not taking
proper notice of the operating and safety instructions.
Austin Shackles
<mal...@jgj-jewellers.demon.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:
likesay, you have to be careful - take things very slowly and don#t charge
into unseen undergrowth with it. The 3-legged blade for mine is pretty
thick, I wouldn't expect it to break - but it'd almost certainly destroy the
gears in the head instead.
somtimes, however, string is no use. depends on what you have to cut.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"The woods are lovely, dark and deep. But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep."
Robert Frost (1874-1963) from Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening
Austin Shackles
<nikki....@ntlworld.com> enlightened us thusly:
>on14/06/2003 9:09 am, Austin Shackles at aus...@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk wrote:
>
>> silly arse... mind, I did that on a wooden step for a minibus. lots of
>> paint, lots of sand - non-slip black paint!
>
>More like sore arse where you grazed yourself falling over
nah, that was the point of the non-slip paint, innit.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
Lee_D
news:v17nevobb70nknltv...@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 14 Jun 2003 14:07:57 +0100, "David French"
> may want to 'change the use' of some of it at some point, I think it
> may be prudent to tread a little lightly at the moment :-)
>
Em Military vehicles driving over an exmilitary establishment? I thet they
wouldn't even notice, just think that the site was being unmothballed and it
was a test ground for new urban camo vehicles.... like for hiding in
fairgrounds
;-)
Lee
Nikki
replacewithleehere...@hathisterminalscoat.freeserve.co.uk
wrote:
Martyn is right. The last people you want to upset are the neighbours. It
only takes one to object to a proposed plan and its all on hold. Bruce's
uncle has some land that he wanted to build a bungalow on for themselves,
sell the house or let one of the kids have it. He's been arguing with the
farmer next door to him on and off for years. The farmer has a yard next to
this bit of land and some barns. The house the famrer lives in doesn't even
overlook the where this proposed bungalow is to go. There are no other
neighbours that would be affected, but he's had the planning permission
refused twice just because the Farmer and Uncle Nev can't speak a pleasant
word to each other. Bruce got on fine with the farmer when he spoke to him
and if it had been left to him to approach the farmer, he's certain that he
wouldn't have objected.
Bruce says need dig out some plans/maps of the area first, then find out if
there have been any restriction places on the land - the deeds should give
you this info. Then after that I think you could start looking at possible
changes in its use and get some outline plans drawn up and submitt them to
the planning dept. If they have no big objections then the nextstage is to
get proper plans done and take it from there.
Nikki
> On Mon, 16 Jun 2003 14:23:28 +0100, Nikki <nikki....@ntlworld.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Bruce says need dig out some plans/maps of the area first, then find out if
>> there have been any restriction places on the land - the deeds should give
>> you this info. Then after that I think you could start looking at possible
>> changes in its use and get some outline plans drawn up and submitt them to
>> the planning dept. If they have no big objections then the nextstage is to
>> get proper plans done and take it from there.
>
> I've been through this process three times now in as many years. The
> 'secret' (if there really is one), is to get the locals to think that
> whatever you want to do is their idea in the first place, then you are
> obviously just helping them out...
>
>
> Regards
>
> Martyn
Exactly. Knowing how to handle people, letting them have their say, being
able to compromise and to explain fully your plans are the biggest assets in
getting the neighbours to agree.
Austin Shackles
@"@101fc.net> enlightened us thusly:
>On Mon, 16 Jun 2003 00:27:31 +0100, Nikki <nikki....@ntlworld.com>
>wrote:
>
>>It's also the reason when he's been asked in the past to
>>lend someone his chainsaw, he refuses. He'll go and do the job for them,
>>but won't let them use it. We know of someone who lost an arm by not taking
>>proper notice of the operating and safety instructions.
>
>I kinda got used to people taking the p*ss whenever I kit up to use my
>chainsaw. Clearing the ground around me, mask, goggles, gloves, steel
>toecappers... "Oh look's it Darth Vader" isn't half as painfull as
>losing a bit of body. I do sometimes think it's a little too easy to
>buy tools which in the wrong hands are lethal. Mind you, in the wrong
>hands, most tools can be lethal I guess.
however, despite the fact that you can go into 'most any suitable place and
buy a chainsaw up to about 2ft bar-length, you can't, unless you're a
licensed tree surgeon, buy the cut little 10" one-handed ones. why? 'cos
people might use it as a weapon. Presumably, they're not apt to use the
ordinary kind as such...
Mr.Nice.
<aus...@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk> put finger to keyboard producing:
>On or around Mon, 16 Jun 2003 10:05:54 +0100, Mother < "@ {mother}
>@"@101fc.net> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>On Mon, 16 Jun 2003 00:27:31 +0100, Nikki <nikki....@ntlworld.com>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>It's also the reason when he's been asked in the past to
>>>lend someone his chainsaw, he refuses. He'll go and do the job for them,
>>>but won't let them use it. We know of someone who lost an arm by not taking
>>>proper notice of the operating and safety instructions.
>>
>>I kinda got used to people taking the p*ss whenever I kit up to use my
>>chainsaw. Clearing the ground around me, mask, goggles, gloves, steel
>>toecappers... "Oh look's it Darth Vader" isn't half as painfull as
>>losing a bit of body. I do sometimes think it's a little too easy to
>>buy tools which in the wrong hands are lethal. Mind you, in the wrong
>>hands, most tools can be lethal I guess.
>
>however, despite the fact that you can go into 'most any suitable place and
>buy a chainsaw up to about 2ft bar-length, you can't, unless you're a
>licensed tree surgeon, buy the cut little 10" one-handed ones. why? 'cos
>people might use it as a weapon. Presumably, they're not apt to use the
>ordinary kind as such...
That's odd, a little 10" one (never knew there was such a thing) would
be ideal for clearing my garden, lots of branches around 2"-5".
--
Regards.
Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
___________________________________________________________
"To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.
http://www.mr-nice.rulestheweb.com mr.niceATsofthome.net
http://community.webshots.com/user/mrnice106
___________________________________________________________
Austin Shackles
enlightened us thusly:
>Twas Mon, 16 Jun 2003 18:10:44 +0100 when Austin Shackles
><aus...@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk> put finger to keyboard producing:
>>
>>however, despite the fact that you can go into 'most any suitable place and
>>buy a chainsaw up to about 2ft bar-length, you can't, unless you're a
>>licensed tree surgeon, buy the cut little 10" one-handed ones. why? 'cos
^^^
>>people might use it as a weapon. Presumably, they're not apt to use the
>>ordinary kind as such...
>
>That's odd, a little 10" one (never knew there was such a thing) would
>be ideal for clearing my garden, lots of branches around 2"-5".
bugger. that should've been "cute"
I reckon you can buy little conventional ones, just as suited for carving
people, if that's what you had in mind. they might be 12".
Nikki
> That's odd, a little 10" one (never knew there was such a thing) would
>> be ideal for clearing my garden, lots of branches around 2"-5".
>
> bugger. that should've been "cute"
>
> I reckon you can buy little conventional ones, just as suited for carving
> people, if that's what you had in mind. they might be 12".
>
Reciprocating or sabre saws. Bruce has two Bosch and an Elu one. Handy
bits of kit in the garden and for building.
He's got an Arbortech attachment which fits onto the grinder, which you can
use for carving.
Mr.Nice.
<nikki....@ntlworld.com> put finger to keyboard producing:
These reciprocating saws.. can you get rechargeable ones? my garden is
like a jungle and I don't fancy trailing wires through it.
Nikki
> Twas Tue, 17 Jun 2003 03:12:29 +0100 when Nikki
> <nikki....@ntlworld.com> put finger to keyboard producing:
>
>> on16/06/2003 10:32 pm, Austin Shackles at aus...@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk wrote:
>>
>>> That's odd, a little 10" one (never knew there was such a thing) would
>>>> be ideal for clearing my garden, lots of branches around 2"-5".
>>>
>>> bugger. that should've been "cute"
>>>
>>> I reckon you can buy little conventional ones, just as suited for carving
>>> people, if that's what you had in mind. they might be 12".
>>>
>> Reciprocating or sabre saws. Bruce has two Bosch and an Elu one. Handy
>> bits of kit in the garden and for building.
>>
>> He's got an Arbortech attachment which fits onto the grinder, which you can
>> use for carving.
> These reciprocating saws.. can you get rechargeable ones? my garden is
> like a jungle and I don't fancy trailing wires through it.
>
> --
> Regards.
> Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)
I'm not sure actually. I'll ask Bruce. He reads the Axminster Power Tools
Catologue in bed!
Andrew Harton
Fancy a job as peace envoy to the middle east? :-)
--
SIII 88" | Member of Club Land Rover Ireland |
| http://www.clri.net |
Nikki
Not really.