Even with the dials at full red the heater output is pretty poor, I'd even say lukewarm. Any ideas what the cause maybe? The engine temp gauge holds steady at just below the half way mark and on tickover it does get a bit warmer in the cabin, once I start driving though the temp from the vents drops.
> Even with the dials at full red the heater output is pretty poor, I'd even > say lukewarm. Any ideas what the cause maybe? The engine temp gauge holds > steady at just below the half way mark and on tickover it does get a bit > warmer in the cabin, once I start driving though the temp from the vents > drops.
> Andy
Does it take long to warm up? Could the the thermostat is missing or stuck open.
> "Andy" <andrew.coo...@btinternet.com> wrote in message > news:uPidnZMdZ5Y70n3XnZ2dnUVZ8oadnZ2d@bt.com... >> Even with the dials at full red the heater output is pretty poor, I'd >> even say lukewarm. Any ideas what the cause maybe? The engine temp gauge >> holds steady at just below the half way mark and on tickover it does get >> a bit warmer in the cabin, once I start driving though the temp from the >> vents drops.
>> Andy
> Does it take long to warm up? Could the the thermostat is missing or stuck > open.
> "Lee_D" <newsgroupsNOS...@NOSPAMlrproject.com> wrote in message > news:4ae06bc9$0$2526$da0feed9@news.zen.co.uk... >> "Andy" <andrew.coo...@btinternet.com> wrote in message >> news:uPidnZMdZ5Y70n3XnZ2dnUVZ8oadnZ2d@bt.com... >>> Even with the dials at full red the heater output is pretty poor, I'd >>> even say lukewarm. Any ideas what the cause maybe? The engine temp gauge >>> holds steady at just below the half way mark and on tickover it does get >>> a bit warmer in the cabin, once I start driving though the temp from the >>> vents drops.
>>> Andy
>> Does it take long to warm up? Could the the thermostat is missing or >> stuck open.
>> Lee D
> Warms up pretty quickly, coolant levels OK
> -- > Andy
Heater may be air locked. Pull 1 hose off and ram a hose on it. turn the hose on full and give the matrix a good blast through then reconnect the hoses.
Lee_D wrote: > "Andy" <andrew.coo...@btinternet.com> wrote in message > news:uPidnZMdZ5Y70n3XnZ2dnUVZ8oadnZ2d@bt.com... >> Even with the dials at full red the heater output is pretty poor, I'd >> even say lukewarm. Any ideas what the cause maybe? The engine temp >> gauge holds steady at just below the half way mark and on tickover it >> does get a bit warmer in the cabin, once I start driving though the >> temp from the vents drops.
>> Andy
> Does it take long to warm up? Could the the thermostat be missing or > stuck open.
> Lee D
... does the thermostat have the highest appropriate working temperature (88 degree C)?
Is there an air lock in the heater circuit?
If there's a viscous-coupled fan is it working properly? It should run noiseily for about 30 seconds from start and then quieten noticeably.
Does the red indication on the selector correspond with fully closed/open the flaps in the air distribution box? You'll probably have to give this a miss as unless the heater is out on the floor it's not easy to determine what does what! By taking off the floor outlets you may be able to check that the flap seals are not totally sha**ed. Any hoses dropped off the air ducting?
> Heater may be air locked. Pull 1 hose off and ram a hose on it. turn the > hose on full and give the matrix a good blast through then reconnect the > hoses.
> Lee D
Yeh, someone else suggested this. Where are the hoses though as I haven't a clue :-)
> Yeh, someone else suggested this. Where are the hoses though as I haven't > a clue :-)
> -- > Andy
Unless they have been moved they sit centrally bewteen the valley. Just above and disapear through the bulkhead. If I'm not mistaken its actually the matrix pipes peeping in to the engine bay.
> Unless they have been moved they sit centrally bewteen the valley. Just > above and disapear through the bulkhead. If I'm not mistaken its actually > the matrix pipes peeping in to the engine bay.
> Lee
Right, located the two heater pipes, squeezing them causes the water in the expansion tank to bubble so deffo the right ones :-)
Any tips on how to get rid of the suspected airlock then please? Is it just a simple case of disconnecting one pipe and putting a hose to it and running it through? Assume water will then spill over from the expansion tank? Or should I disconnect both hoses and flush through like that?
Any advice appreciated as I have never done anything like this before and don't want to screw up my cooling system!!
Andy wrote: > Right, located the two heater pipes, squeezing them causes the water in > the expansion tank to bubble so deffo the right ones :-)
And bubbling definitely suggests gas in the system!
> Any tips on how to get rid of the suspected airlock then please? Is it > just a simple case of disconnecting one pipe and putting a hose to it and > running it through?
Normally a simple case of loosening the hose at the highest point and running the engine till the system pressurises, with a V8 stationary this does not take long if the thermostat is working. Be aware that combustion gases in the coolant also rise to the highest point. I never managed to bleed the heater in my 101 until I fixed the head gasket ;-).
Andy wrote: > More of a swell than a bubble to be fair, guess it could be a head gasket > problem but there don't seem to be any other symptoms.
If it's a swell then that could simply be displacement, in which case do the heater hoses get warmer than the bottom hose? On my 110 I found it only had the 77C thermostat and when I changed to the highest 88??C the heater was much more effective.
>> More of a swell than a bubble to be fair, guess it could be a head gasket >> problem but there don't seem to be any other symptoms.
> If it's a swell then that could simply be displacement, in which case do > the > heater hoses get warmer than the bottom hose? On my 110 I found it only > had > the 77C thermostat and when I changed to the highest 88??C the heater was > much more effective.
> AJH
Possible I guess but the heater is pretty warm when car is stationary but the temp drops right down to cool air when moving.
On or around Thu, 22 Oct 2009 13:27:18 +0100, "Andy" <andrew.coo...@btinternet.com> enlightened us thusly:
>Even with the dials at full red the heater output is pretty poor, I'd even >say lukewarm. Any ideas what the cause maybe? The engine temp gauge holds >steady at just below the half way mark and on tickover it does get a bit >warmer in the cabin, once I start driving though the temp from the vents >drops.
>Andy
try swapping the heatwer hoses over at the bulkhead end, if they're side by side, so the water goes the other way through the matrix.
You'd be amazed at how often this works. -- Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms... ------------------------------------------------\ >> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them. a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too!
>>> More of a swell than a bubble to be fair, guess it could be a head >>> gasket >>> problem but there don't seem to be any other symptoms.
>> If it's a swell then that could simply be displacement, in which case do >> the >> heater hoses get warmer than the bottom hose? On my 110 I found it only >> had >> the 77C thermostat and when I changed to the highest 88??C the heater was >> much more effective.
>> AJH
> Possible I guess but the heater is pretty warm when car is stationary but > the temp drops right down to cool air when moving.
> -- > Andy
Which takes me right back to the thermostat. If its getting warm then it should stay warm. You would need to bleed it all anyway should you change the thermostat and they are cheap enough to swap out if only to eliminate it.
> > try swapping the heatwer hoses over at the bulkhead end, if they're side > > by > > side, so the water goes the other way through the matrix.
> > You'd be amazed at how often this works.
> I'm thinking once? Because if you did it twice.......
> I'll get my coat.
I know that it has been mentioned earlier in my thread by I'd noticed that my 200Tdi was running cooler than usual and with a swap of the thermostat everything became a lot warmer!
For the sake of a few quid it may be worth doing that.
On or around Sun, 25 Oct 2009 23:23:38 -0000, "Lee_D" <newsgroupsNOS...@NOSPAMlrproject.com> enlightened us thusly:
>"Austin Shackles" <austinDITCHTHISFORBETTERRESU...@ddol-las.net> wrote in >message news:hli9e59j415fs8fd9hcmfpaq1etradlvjn@4ax.com... >> try swapping the heatwer hoses over at the bulkhead end, if they're side >> by >> side, so the water goes the other way through the matrix.
>> You'd be amazed at how often this works.
>I'm thinking once? Because if you did it twice.......
>I'll get my coat.
har har.
I've done it on several vehicles. Actually, I have done it more than once on the same vehicle, and yes, it does work second time as well. -- Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms... ------------------------------------------------\ >> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them. a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too!
I have what could possibly only happen in Australia. Whenever I park for up to a week in the bush without moving my 1993 Tdi Disko, a possum or unlikely a bush rats start eating the under bonnet lining of my vehicle. So far I did patch the holes with Silastic but this time one hole is about 1 foot across plus a few smaller ones. I also also fear that hoses, cables etc. could be found by the hungry beast to its taste.
Could anyone please suggest the best material for repair that is heat resistant and is disliked by Australian bush animals.
Thesnowbaron wrote: > I have what could possibly only happen in Australia. Whenever I park for up > to a week in the bush without moving my 1993 Tdi Disko, a possum or > unlikely a bush rats start eating the under bonnet lining of my vehicle. So > far I did patch the holes with Silastic but this time one hole is about 1 > foot across plus a few smaller ones. > I also also fear that hoses, cables etc. could be found by the hungry beast > to its taste.
> Could anyone please suggest the best material for repair that is heat > resistant and is disliked by Australian bush animals.
I nearly marked this as spam without opening it. Sorry to hear of your problem - could you cut an underbonnet shaped panel of something like expamet or weld mesh to protect the insulation?
On 10 Nov, 06:46, "Thesnowbaron" <snowg...@tpg.com.au> wrote:
> Hello all;
> I have what could possibly only happen in Australia. Whenever I park for up > to a week in the bush without moving my 1993 Tdi Disko, a possum or > unlikely a bush rats start eating the under bonnet lining of my vehicle. So > far I did patch the holes with Silastic but this time one hole is about 1 > foot across plus a few smaller ones. > I also also fear that hoses, cables etc. could be found by the hungry beast > to its taste.
> Could anyone please suggest the best material for repair that is heat > resistant and is disliked by Australian bush animals.
> Franz
similar thing happened to me when I lived in Switzerland, a pine martin ate half my rad top hose, didn't notice for a few miles..... It is a common problem, so much so that it is normally covered by your insurance there. Only thing I saw to stop it, was that people put up a small fence (12-18 inches high) of chicken wire tight around the car every time it was parked up, so the blighters couldn't get underneath and then into the engine bay.
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